I've got iroko timber around my south facing aluminium windows that I've
just sandpapered off the old mahogany coloured varnish. It's a hot ledge
when the sun is glaring at it (as it is today).

This varnish previously had been a mix of Ronseal exterior painted on
top of older Sikkens Cetol HLS / Filter, and was cracking quite badly so
it had to go. I've still got tinned remains of both Ronseal & Sikkens
(last used 2003) in the tool shed.

So... which do I use?

Ronseal: Lasts 5 years (it sez on the tin), Dry and recoatable in 6
hours, in the future lightly rub down and recoat with same is minimal
fuss. It's not expensive.

Sikkens: Lasts ?, needs 16 hours wait between coats, needs one coat of
HLS and two of filter, in the future I'd only be happy stripping off to
bare wood to do it again. Costs a bit more. Lots.

Of course, I have a question mark above. How long does Sikkens normally
last in the glare of the unforgiving sun? In terms of wood protection,
it its use justified over Ronseal?

--
Adrian C

Adrian C wrote:

Of course, I have a question mark above. How long does Sikkens normally
last in the glare of the unforgiving sun? In terms of wood protection,
it its use justified over Ronseal?


Stand down. I've decided to go with Sikkens. :-)

--
Adrian C

"Adrian C" wrote in message
...
I've got iroko timber around my south facing aluminium windows that I've
just sandpapered off the old mahogany coloured varnish. It's a hot ledge
when the sun is glaring at it (as it is today).

This varnish previously had been a mix of Ronseal exterior painted on top
of older Sikkens Cetol HLS / Filter, and was cracking quite badly so it
had to go. I've still got tinned remains of both Ronseal & Sikkens (last
used 2003) in the tool shed.

So... which do I use?

Ronseal: Lasts 5 years (it sez on the tin), Dry and recoatable in 6 hours,
in the future lightly rub down and recoat with same is minimal fuss. It's
not expensive.

Sikkens: Lasts ?, needs 16 hours wait between coats, needs one coat of HLS
and two of filter, in the future I'd only be happy stripping off to bare
wood to do it again. Costs a bit more. Lots.

Of course, I have a question mark above. How long does Sikkens normally
last in the glare of the unforgiving sun? In terms of wood protection, it
its use justified over Ronseal?

--
Adrian C

My personal experience - windows previously had been coated with some
unknown stain by the house builder so decided to completely strip the sashes
and frames down to bare wood and start afresh with *the best*. Applied
single coat of Cetol HLS plus, allowed a days drying and then applied 2
coats of Cetol Filter 7 over the course of the next 2 days, lightly rubbing
down with fine wire wool between coats. Result - after 3 years south facing
window sills started flaking off, followed by lower sash horizontals.

After 5 years windows were so flaky that I decided to again restrip the rear
of the house (the south facing side) and (on a friends recommendation) tried
Ronseal 5 year stain - 3 coats applied over 2 days with a light rub down
between 2nd and final coat. - result - after 7 years all surfaces are still
sound, although have given them a single coat top up as the surface is sound
but going dull. The Ronseal is much easier to use, fast drying (you could
do 3 coats in a day if pushed) and you can rinse out the brushes in water.

- I will carry on using Ronseal in the future!

Phil Jessop wrote:
"Adrian C" wrote in message
...
I've got iroko timber around my south facing aluminium windows that I've
just sandpapered off the old mahogany coloured varnish. It's a hot ledge
when the sun is glaring at it (as it is today).

The Ronseal is much easier to use, fast drying (you could
do 3 coats in a day if pushed) and you can rinse out the brushes in water.

- I will carry on using Ronseal in the future!


Hmmm... I now have a dent in my keyboard where my head just hit it.

:^(

--
Adrian C

In message , Adrian C
writes
Phil Jessop wrote:
"Adrian C" wrote in message
...
I've got iroko timber around my south facing aluminium windows that
I've just sandpapered off the old mahogany coloured varnish. It's a
hot ledge when the sun is glaring at it (as it is today).

The Ronseal is much easier to use, fast drying (you could do 3 coats
in a day if pushed) and you can rinse out the brushes in water.
- I will carry on using Ronseal in the future!


Hmmm... I now have a dent in my keyboard where my head just hit it.

I have used Sadolin extra which, while fine for sawn finish wood, is
very short lived on sealed pine windows: particularly the
horizontals/sills.

regards

--
Tim Lamb

Hmmm... I now have a dent in my keyboard where my head just hit it.

My hardwood windows are treated with Sikkens. Recoated them for the
first time last summer. I simply washed them down whilst give them a
light rub with a pan scourer (the nylon and sponge type) to remove any
dirt and loose material, and once dry added a single coat of Filter 7.
Supremely easy to paint on the new coat coat, it's so light and flows
so well, and still has that fresh-coat beauty a year later.

On Sep 25, 3:13*pm, Adrian C wrote:
I've got iroko timber

I assume you rub down with methylated spirit to remove the oil layer,
otherwise coatings will flake.

Adrian C wrote:

How long does Sikkens normally
last in the glare of the unforgiving sun?

Tried it in Italy on a west facing window. Two years later it was
peeling off. I've since tried proper (two pack polyurethane) varnish and
that has lasted for five years so far. The other finish that has done
well is Brewer's own brand exterior gloss, used on an east facing door.
It does incredibly well in the sun, so well that Italian neighbours have
started to ask if I can take extra tins with me next time so they can
use the same paint.

Adrian C wrote in news:7i41gqF2vko0nU1
@mid.individual.net:

I've got iroko timber around my south facing aluminium windows that
I've
just sandpapered off the old mahogany coloured varnish. It's a hot
ledge
when the sun is glaring at it (as it is today).

This varnish previously had been a mix of Ronseal exterior painted
on
top of older Sikkens Cetol HLS / Filter, and was cracking quite
badly so
it had to go. I've still got tinned remains of both Ronseal &
Sikkens
(last used 2003) in the tool shed.

So... which do I use?

Ronseal: Lasts 5 years (it sez on the tin), Dry and recoatable in 6
hours, in the future lightly rub down and recoat with same is
minimal
fuss. It's not expensive.

Sikkens: Lasts ?, needs 16 hours wait between coats, needs one coat
of
HLS and two of filter, in the future I'd only be happy stripping off
to
bare wood to do it again. Costs a bit more. Lots.

Of course, I have a question mark above. How long does Sikkens
normally
last in the glare of the unforgiving sun? In terms of wood
protection,
it its use justified over Ronseal?


I have tried using Sikkens HLS followed by Filter. The problem is
that after a few years when it cracks you have to rub down; in some
places to the HLS coat in other to bare wood. So what do you then?
Spot touch up the bare wood with HLS followed by Filter 7 all over or
just chance it with an all over coat of Filter 7? Its not practical,
so better to use a single layer treatment.
My personal experience is that Sikkens is superb on rough sawn timber
but mediocre on planned timber - especially poor on horizontal
surfaces such as cills.
DAvy