I'm after a 240V in-line connector, which can take a (smallish)
physical load as well as a small electrical one. I'm thinking of
something with a threaded connection between the two halves.
Preferably pretty or at least unobtrusive.

The application is for pendant lighting above table in a kitchen/
diner. The table is normally going to be close to wall, but pulled
out into the room for dinner parties etc (it's a room-width thing).
The 3 lamps are suspended from Klik-Fix roses, and there's a row of
these for each table position. The lamps are to be high up out of the
way for normal use, but lower, just above seated head height in more
formal dining mode, so the neatest way of fixing them will be to swap
the drop-flexes over between a long set and a short set. So a quick
connector is needed at the other end. When the shades are in the
lower position, a six footer will be just about able to look down into
the top of the lamp, and anyway the shades are translucent fibreglass/
kevlar, so the connector is going to show.

I've been through RS, and nothing stood out as suitable.

So, a long shot, but any ideas?

The shades weigh about a kilo btw

In article
,
Bolted wrote:
I'm after a 240V in-line connector, which can take a (smallish)
physical load as well as a small electrical one. I'm thinking of
something with a threaded connection between the two halves.
Preferably pretty or at least unobtrusive.

The application is for pendant lighting above table in a kitchen/
diner. The table is normally going to be close to wall, but pulled
out into the room for dinner parties etc (it's a room-width thing).
The 3 lamps are suspended from Klik-Fix roses, and there's a row of
these for each table position. The lamps are to be high up out of the
way for normal use, but lower, just above seated head height in more
formal dining mode, so the neatest way of fixing them will be to swap
the drop-flexes over between a long set and a short set. So a quick
connector is needed at the other end. When the shades are in the
lower position, a six footer will be just about able to look down into
the top of the lamp, and anyway the shades are translucent fibreglass/
kevlar, so the connector is going to show.

Smallest locking that comes to mind is the LNE series. These have the same
bodies as XLR mic connectors but are for mains. Think the body needs an
earth, though. Not cheap.

--
*People want trepanners like they want a hole in the head*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 13 Aug, 13:55, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
In article
,
* *Bolted wrote:





I'm after a 240V in-line connector, which can take a (smallish)
physical load as well as a small electrical one. *I'm thinking of
something with a threaded connection between the two halves.
Preferably pretty or at least unobtrusive.
The application is for pendant lighting above table in a kitchen/
diner. *The table is normally going to be close to wall, but pulled
out into the room for dinner parties etc (it's a room-width thing).
The 3 lamps are suspended from Klik-Fix roses, and there's a row of
these for each table position. *The lamps are to be high up out of the
way for normal use, but lower, just above seated head height in more
formal dining mode, so the neatest way of fixing them will be to swap
the drop-flexes over between a long set and a short set. *So a quick
connector is needed at the other end. *When the shades are in the
lower position, a six footer will be just about able to look down into
the top of the lamp, and anyway the shades are translucent fibreglass/
kevlar, so the connector is going to show.

Smallest locking that comes to mind is the LNE series. These have the same
bodies as XLR mic connectors but are for mains. Think the body needs an
earth, though. Not cheap.

--
*People want trepanners like they want a hole in the head*

* * Dave Plowman * * * * * * * * London SW
* * * * * * * * * To e-mail, change noise into sound.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks. Not approved in domestic situations, I think, and the earth
is an issue too. It led me to Neutrik Powercon, but they don't seem
to have an inline pair option, and they are a bit garish. All a bit
large, too. Hoped that Fischer might do something, but that's all
signal stuff.

Hmm. Come to think of it as I write, the shades probably hang off the
lampholder in the normal way. If so, I can just put lampholders on
both sets of flex and swap the shades over.

Bolted wrote:
I'm after a 240V in-line connector, which can take a (smallish)
physical load as well as a small electrical one. I'm thinking of
something with a threaded connection between the two halves.
Preferably pretty or at least unobtrusive.

The application is for pendant lighting above table in a kitchen/
diner. The table is normally going to be close to wall, but pulled
out into the room for dinner parties etc (it's a room-width thing).
The 3 lamps are suspended from Klik-Fix roses, and there's a row of
these for each table position. The lamps are to be high up out of the
way for normal use, but lower, just above seated head height in more
formal dining mode, so the neatest way of fixing them will be to swap
the drop-flexes over between a long set and a short set. So a quick
connector is needed at the other end. When the shades are in the
lower position, a six footer will be just about able to look down into
the top of the lamp, and anyway the shades are translucent fibreglass/
kevlar, so the connector is going to show.

I've been through RS, and nothing stood out as suitable.

So, a long shot, but any ideas?

Have you considered using low-voltage halogens? They have their
downsides but being 12V, you don't have to insulate the connections.

Bolted wrote:
I'm after a 240V in-line connector, which can take a (smallish)
physical load as well as a small electrical one. I'm thinking of
something with a threaded connection between the two halves.
Preferably pretty or at least unobtrusive.

The application is for pendant lighting above table in a kitchen/
diner. The table is normally going to be close to wall, but pulled
out into the room for dinner parties etc (it's a room-width thing).
The 3 lamps are suspended from Klik-Fix roses, and there's a row of
these for each table position. The lamps are to be high up out of the
way for normal use, but lower, just above seated head height in more
formal dining mode, so the neatest way of fixing them will be to swap
the drop-flexes over between a long set and a short set. So a quick
connector is needed at the other end. When the shades are in the
lower position, a six footer will be just about able to look down into
the top of the lamp, and anyway the shades are translucent fibreglass/
kevlar, so the connector is going to show.

I've been through RS, and nothing stood out as suitable.

So, a long shot, but any ideas?

The shades weigh about a kilo btw

Would a "rise and fall" ceiling rose fitting do? The drop cable is on a
countersprung reel and you just move the light up or down as required.

--
Reentrant

On 13 Aug, 15:27, "Reentrant" wrote:
Bolted wrote:
I'm after a 240V in-line connector, which can take a (smallish)
physical load as well as a small electrical one. *I'm thinking of
something with a threaded connection between the two halves.
Preferably pretty or at least unobtrusive.

The application is for pendant lighting above table in a kitchen/
diner. *The table is normally going to be close to wall, but pulled
out into the room for dinner parties etc (it's a room-width thing).
The 3 lamps are suspended from Klik-Fix roses, and there's a row of
these for each table position. *The lamps are to be high up out of the
way for normal use, but lower, just above seated head height in more
formal dining mode, so the neatest way of fixing them will be to swap
the drop-flexes over between a long set and a short set. *So a quick
connector is needed at the other end. *When the shades are in the
lower position, a six footer will be just about able to look down into
the top of the lamp, and anyway the shades are translucent fibreglass/
kevlar, so the connector is going to show.

I've been through RS, and nothing stood out as suitable.

So, a long shot, but any ideas?

The shades weigh about a kilo btw

Would a "rise and fall" ceiling rose fitting do? The drop cable is on a
countersprung reel and you just move the light up or down as required.

--
Reentrant- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

That's what I would have used, if it wasn't for the table moving
position as well as the lamp height changing. The only sensible way
of doing the former I could think of was with the Klik-Fix roses,
which rules out this option.

Bolted wrote:
I'm after a 240V in-line connector, which can take a (smallish)
physical load as well as a small electrical one. I'm thinking of
something with a threaded connection between the two halves.
Preferably pretty or at least unobtrusive.

The application is for pendant lighting above table in a kitchen/
diner. The table is normally going to be close to wall, but pulled
out into the room for dinner parties etc (it's a room-width thing).
The 3 lamps are suspended from Klik-Fix roses, and there's a row of
these for each table position. The lamps are to be high up out of the
way for normal use, but lower, just above seated head height in more
formal dining mode, so the neatest way of fixing them will be to swap
the drop-flexes over between a long set and a short set. So a quick
connector is needed at the other end. When the shades are in the
lower position, a six footer will be just about able to look down into
the top of the lamp, and anyway the shades are translucent fibreglass/
kevlar, so the connector is going to show.

I've been through RS, and nothing stood out as suitable.

So, a long shot, but any ideas?

The shades weigh about a kilo btw


Something like these http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/ASPCR2000.html
do you mean?

BigWallop wrote:
Bolted wrote:
I'm after a 240V in-line connector, which can take a (smallish)
physical load as well as a small electrical one. I'm thinking of
something with a threaded connection between the two halves.
Preferably pretty or at least unobtrusive.

The application is for pendant lighting above table in a kitchen/
diner. The table is normally going to be close to wall, but pulled
out into the room for dinner parties etc (it's a room-width thing).
The 3 lamps are suspended from Klik-Fix roses, and there's a row of
these for each table position. The lamps are to be high up out of
the way for normal use, but lower, just above seated head height in
more formal dining mode, so the neatest way of fixing them will be
to swap the drop-flexes over between a long set and a short set. So
a quick connector is needed at the other end. When the shades are
in the lower position, a six footer will be just about able to look
down into the top of the lamp, and anyway the shades are translucent
fibreglass/ kevlar, so the connector is going to show.

I've been through RS, and nothing stood out as suitable.

So, a long shot, but any ideas?

The shades weigh about a kilo btw


Something like these
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/ASPCR2000.html do you mean?


We use these in situations where the change of use in different events is
needed. Install a load of them along the length or bridth of a ceiling to
allow the shortest length of cable or wire to acheive the correct position
for the lighting. Used along with these
http://www.ormiston-wire.co.uk/produ...op/scpage1.cfm for heavier lamp
systems or chandeliers, or even just stick-on-pull-off hooks, they work
perfectly every time.

They're also cheaper than bespoke or more specialised systems, so suit the
client and us to the T.

On 13 Aug, 15:48, "BigWallop" wrote:
Bolted wrote:

The 3 lamps are suspended from Klik-Fix roses, and there's a row of
these for each table position. *

Something like these *http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/ASPCR2000.html
do you mean?- Hide quoted text -

Yes, precisely what I meant . Those are already installed.

I have to change the length of the flex drop as well. I think I'll
just do it the lampholder way, assuming that works with these lamps.

In article
,
Bolted wrote:
Smallest locking that comes to mind is the LNE series. These have the
same bodies as XLR mic connectors but are for mains. Think the body
needs an earth, though. Not cheap.


Thanks. Not approved in domestic situations, I think, and the earth
is an issue too.

They're not approved but are fairly safe - especially if RCD protected.
They were used under hazardous conditions in broadcast for many a year.
They'd also be safe without an earth if properly wired. Which to be fair
might be beyond the skills of some DIYers.

It led me to Neutrik Powercon, but they don't seem
to have an inline pair option, and they are a bit garish. All a bit
large, too. Hoped that Fischer might do something, but that's all
signal stuff.

No - we had to make up our own line outlets for Powercons.

Hmm. Come to think of it as I write, the shades probably hang off the
lampholder in the normal way. If so, I can just put lampholders on
both sets of flex and swap the shades over.

--
*Learn from your parents' mistakes - use birth control.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Bulgin Buccaneer do very small inline connectors, 18-20mm dia.
They are IP rated (O-ring on the inline socket as I recall),
which gives you a gland-line cord strain relief on the rear.

Not checked w.r.t. regs.

In article
,
js.b1 wrote:
Bulgin Buccaneer do very small inline connectors, 18-20mm dia.
They are IP rated (O-ring on the inline socket as I recall),
which gives you a gland-line cord strain relief on the rear.

But do they latch? Such devices are rare. Think any latching type may be
against domestic regs. But would be needed for carrying a load.

--
*Someday, we'll look back on this, laugh nervously and change the subject

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Bolted wrote:
I'm after a 240V in-line connector, which can take a (smallish)
physical load as well as a small electrical one. I'm thinking of
something with a threaded connection between the two halves.
Preferably pretty or at least unobtrusive.

The application is for pendant lighting above table in a kitchen/
diner. The table is normally going to be close to wall, but pulled
out into the room for dinner parties etc (it's a room-width thing).
The 3 lamps are suspended from Klik-Fix roses, and there's a row of
these for each table position. The lamps are to be high up out of the
way for normal use, but lower, just above seated head height in more
formal dining mode, so the neatest way of fixing them will be to swap
the drop-flexes over between a long set and a short set. So a quick
connector is needed at the other end. When the shades are in the
lower position, a six footer will be just about able to look down into
the top of the lamp, and anyway the shades are translucent fibreglass/
kevlar, so the connector is going to show.

I've been through RS, and nothing stood out as suitable.

So, a long shot, but any ideas?


Three drop flexes directly over the dinner party position. Three hooks in
the ceiling directly over against the wall position.

To change simply hook over or unhook as required.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Owain wrote:
On 13 Aug, 13:11, Bolted wrote:
The application is for pendant lighting above table in a kitchen/
diner. The table is normally going to be close to wall, but pulled
out into the room for dinner parties etc (it's a room-width thing).
The 3 lamps are suspended from Klik-Fix roses, and there's a row of
these for each table position. The lamps are to be high up out of the
way for normal use,

Can you hang the luminaires with long leads in the formal position,
and then hook the leads up on cuphooks to move the luminaires sideways
and upwards for informal use?

Ie if the difference in sideways positon = difference in height, then
you don't need to change the cable length at all.

Is this 'great minds think alike' or 'fools seldom differ'?


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On 13 Aug, 18:24, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:
Owain wrote:
On 13 Aug, 13:11, Bolted wrote:
The application is for pendant lighting above table in a kitchen/
diner. The table is normally going to be close to wall, but pulled
out into the room for dinner parties etc (it's a room-width thing).
The 3 lamps are suspended from Klik-Fix roses, and there's a row of
these for each table position. The lamps are to be high up out of the
way for normal use,

Can you hang the luminaires with long leads in the formal position,
and then hook the leads up on cuphooks to move the luminaires sideways
and upwards for informal use?

Ie if the difference in sideways positon = difference in height, then
you don't need to change the cable length at all.

Is this 'great minds think alike' or 'fools seldom differ'?

--
Dave - The Medway Handymanwww.medwayhandyman.co.uk

I'd do that in the workshop, but it is not exactly the type of look
I'm after.

On 13 Aug, 17:48, "js.b1" wrote:
Bulgin Buccaneer do very small inline connectors, 18-20mm dia.
They are IP rated (O-ring on the inline socket as I recall),
which gives you a gland-line cord strain relief on the rear.

Not checked w.r.t. regs.

Nearer than I'd got, thank you.

I assume it is these ones, still 61mm each side, so a 120mm x 26mm
connector in total. A bit large to stick on a 6mm cable. One to
store away for future possible uses, though.

http://www.bulgin.co.uk/PDFs/CatNo82..._Mini_2005.pdf

I think what I am after is unobtanium. And unfortunately, the damn
shades do not hang off a standard lampholder at all, there's a long
metal stem involved.

There is a large stainless steel ceiling rose cover, with plenty of
empty space, and a substantial cable lock. All of which is going to
take some serious modification to work with the Klik-Fixes. Why is
nothing ever simple...

On 13 Aug, 22:15, Owain wrote:

Perhaps you could find some similar shades that did work with ordinary
flexes?

Or just buy another three and have 3 with long leads and 3 with short
leads?

I (and a more important person) like them, and there aren't many
similar.

http://www.designer-lights.com/range...t=pro duct125

I didn't pay that as they were ex-display, but I can't afford another
set!

I'll have a brief moan and then get on with modifying the roses. But
thanks for the suggestions anyway.

On Aug 13, 9:59*pm, Bolted wrote:
*I assume it is these ones, still 61mm each side, so a 120mm x 26mm
connector in total. *A bit large to stick on a 6mm cable. *One to
store away for future possible uses, though.

Yes, those. Ah, of course length doubles.

I am sure someone makes a "light-low, light-high" fitting.
- Spring loaded retracting unit with steel cable which handles the
weight
- Curled cable which extends or contracts as necessary

Alternative is to make your own ceiling roses.
- Bulgin Mini-Buccaneer panel mount socket, plug in as needed
- Gives you an assembled length somewhat less an inline 121mm or so