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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
Posted to uk.tech.digital-tv,uk.d-i-y
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TOT halogen efficiency
Bill Wright wrote:
Some time ago I reported in this hallowed forum my disapointment at the apparent inefficiency of some mains voltage halogen downlights I'd fitted in the dining room. Based on the 12V halogens I have used elsewhere I expected the room would need eight 25 watt lamps. In fact it needed eight 50W ones. 400W to light a medium sized room! I'm now intending to put new lights in the kitchen. Today I lit a 12V 20W lamp and a 240V 25W lamp side by side. Both lamps were the 36deg type. The 12V lamp was much brighter. I was running it on 12.00VDC, but the current drawn was 1.7A which equates to 20.4W, so I guess the brightness would be the same on a nominal 12V AC supply. The 12V lamp had a neutral colour, whereas the mains lamp was rather warm. I wonder if this accounts for the greater efficiency of the 12V lamp, and means that the mains lamp, being relatively under-run, will last longer. I reduced the voltage on the 12V lamp until it had the same apparent brightness as the mains lamp. At 8.7V both lamps had the same brightness and colour temperature, as near as I could tell. Can anyone cast any light (geddit?) on this? Are 12V lamps really so much more efficient? If so, why? The guys over on uk d-iyy will be able to pick this one up. This is a frequent topic. Ignore any references to angle grinders. Andy |
#2
Posted to uk.tech.digital-tv,uk.d-i-y
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TOT halogen efficiency
On Fri, 03 Jul 2009 21:31:58 +0100, Andy Champ wrote:
Bill Wright wrote: Some time ago I reported in this hallowed forum my disapointment at the apparent inefficiency of some mains voltage halogen downlights I'd fitted in the dining room. Based on the 12V halogens I have used elsewhere I expected the room would need eight 25 watt lamps. In fact it needed eight 50W ones. 400W to light a medium sized room! I'm now intending to put new lights in the kitchen. Today I lit a 12V 20W lamp and a 240V 25W lamp side by side. Both lamps were the 36deg type. The 12V lamp was much brighter. I was running it on 12.00VDC, but the current drawn was 1.7A which equates to 20.4W, so I guess the brightness would be the same on a nominal 12V AC supply. The 12V lamp had a neutral colour, whereas the mains lamp was rather warm. I wonder if this accounts for the greater efficiency of the 12V lamp, and means that the mains lamp, being relatively under-run, will last longer. I reduced the voltage on the 12V lamp until it had the same apparent brightness as the mains lamp. At 8.7V both lamps had the same brightness and colour temperature, as near as I could tell. Can anyone cast any light (geddit?) on this? Are 12V lamps really so much more efficient? If so, why? The guys over on uk d-iyy will be able to pick this one up. This is a frequent topic. Ignore any references to angle grinders. Andy I can't help at all on relative efficiencies, but I can say that we have 11 50W GU10s in the house, one set of three have been going for years with only one replacement bulb, the other eight blow regularly and usually every time one blows, a couple more follow within a week. We are slowly replacing some of them with CFL versions, but mixed in with Halogens for instant light. SteveW |
#3
Posted to uk.tech.digital-tv,uk.d-i-y
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TOT halogen efficiency
On Jul 3, 9:31*pm, Andy Champ wrote:
Bill Wright wrote: Some time ago I reported in this hallowed forum my disapointment at the apparent inefficiency of some mains voltage halogen downlights I'd fitted in the dining room. Based on the 12V halogens I have used elsewhere I expected the room would need eight 25 watt lamps. In fact it needed eight 50W ones. 400W to light a medium sized room! partly because theyre (mostly) used in downlighters. I'm now intending to put new lights in the kitchen. Today I lit a 12V 20W lamp and a 240V 25W lamp side by side. Both lamps were the 36deg type. *The 12V lamp was much brighter. I was running it on 12.00VDC, but the current drawn was 1.7A which equates to 20.4W, so I guess the brightness would be the same on a nominal 12V AC supply. performance on 12v ac is identical to on 12v dc The 12V lamp had a neutral colour, whereas the mains lamp was rather warm. I wonder if this accounts for the greater efficiency of the 12V lamp, yes, mains ones generally run at lower filament temp and means that the mains lamp, being relatively under-run, will last longer. quite the contrary. Mains have very thin filaments, so they need to underrun them to get them to last adequately. I reduced the voltage on the 12V lamp until it had the same apparent brightness as the mains lamp. At 8.7V both lamps had the same brightness and colour temperature, as near as I could tell. Can anyone cast any light (geddit?) on this? Are 12V lamps really so much more efficient? If so, why? yes, thicker filament enables higher operating temp for same life The guys over on uk d-iyy will be able to pick this one up. *This is a frequent topic. more info on halogens, downlighting, dimming, and bulb life he http://www.wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index....egory:Lighting Ignore any references to angle grinders. Andy NT |
#4
Posted to uk.tech.digital-tv,uk.d-i-y
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TOT halogen efficiency
In article ,
Andy Champ writes: Bill Wright wrote: Some time ago I reported in this hallowed forum my disapointment at the apparent inefficiency of some mains voltage halogen downlights I'd fitted in the dining room. Based on the 12V halogens I have used elsewhere I expected the room would need eight 25 watt lamps. In fact it needed eight 50W ones. 400W to light a medium sized room! Downlighers are just about the least efficient and least effective way to provide general lighting in a room. I'm now intending to put new lights in the kitchen. Today I lit a 12V 20W lamp and a 240V 25W lamp side by side. Both lamps were the 36deg type. The 12V lamp was much brighter. I was running it on 12.00VDC, but the current drawn was 1.7A which equates to 20.4W, so I guess the brightness would be the same on a nominal 12V AC supply. The 12V lamp had a neutral colour, whereas the mains lamp was rather warm. I wonder if this accounts for the greater efficiency of the 12V lamp, and means that the mains lamp, being relatively under-run, will last longer. For any given power of lamp, there is an optimum design voltage, which results in optimal filament geometry for the power/temperature required. For a 100W lamp, this is 55V. For 20/25W, it's going to be lower (I guess around 25V). The 12V lamp is so much nearer this than the 240V lamp, that this will make the largest difference in light output. 240V filament lamps of the order 25W are so far away from optimal power and voltage rating that their efficiency to doomed to be completely appalling, not to mention fragile filaments too. Colour temperature is mainly a trade off for lamp life, and misguided perceptions of enconomy (which considers only purchase price and not running costs). People should buy 1000hr (or even shorter lived) lamps, but consumers won't pay extra for halogen (or any lamps) which don't last any longer than a regular 1000hr lamp, and so they're no longer made. Hence halogen lamps sold are mostly underrun compared with their optimal operation, to increase lamp life. Strongly suggest you look for a different lighting technology for any new installations. Downlighters are so bad for general lighting, and you may well find the EU outlaws the bulbs for them over the next 5 years (certainly the mains ones, and 12V may follow later). -- Andrew Gabriel [email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup] |
#5
Posted to uk.tech.digital-tv,uk.d-i-y
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TOT halogen efficiency
In article , Andrew
Gabriel wrote: Downlighers are just about the least efficient and least effective way to provide general lighting in a room. And they give horrible streaky effects if you don't keep your spectacles surgically clean. Rod. -- Virtual Access V6.3 free usenet/email software from http://sourceforge.net/projects/virtual-access/ |
#6
Posted to uk.tech.digital-tv,uk.d-i-y
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TOT halogen efficiency
SNIPPED
Strongly suggest you look for a different lighting technology for any new installations. Downlighters are so bad for general lighting, and you may well find the EU outlaws the bulbs for them over the next 5 years (certainly the mains ones, and 12V may follow later). -- Andrew Gabriel [email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup] Again , your suggestions for currently availabke suitable replacement lighting? Your source for beleiving MR16 will be "outlawed" within 5 years? Really there is some crap talked about lighting by the half informed. Adam |
#7
Posted to uk.tech.digital-tv,uk.d-i-y
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TOT halogen efficiency
On Sat, 04 Jul 2009 04:14:45 -0700, Adam Aglionby wrote:
Again , your suggestions for currently availabke suitable replacement lighting? Your source for beleiving MR16 will be "outlawed" within 5 years? Really there is some crap talked about lighting by the half informed. I guess you've come over from the uk.tech.digital-tv group? Andrew Gabriel has been posting on uk.d-i-y for many years and has consistently shown himself to be pretty clued up on lighting. Which is not to say that a request for references is unreasonable, but the "half informed" slur is .... well, half informed :-) -- John Stumbles I used to be indecisive but now I'm not so sure |
#8
Posted to uk.tech.digital-tv,uk.d-i-y,sci.engr.lighting
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TOT halogen efficiency
On 4 July, 13:01, John Stumbles wrote:
On Sat, 04 Jul 2009 04:14:45 -0700, Adam Aglionby wrote: Again , your suggestions for currently availabke suitable replacement lighting? Your source for beleiving MR16 will be "outlawed" within 5 years? Really there is some crap talked about lighting by the half informed. I guess you've come over from the uk.tech.digital-tv group? Andrew Gabriel has been posting on uk.d-i-y for many years and has consistently shown himself to be pretty clued up on lighting. Which is not to say that a request for references is unreasonable, but the "half informed" slur is ... well, half informed :-) -- John Stumbles I used to be indecisive but now I'm not so sure Nope, been here a while, and sci.engr.lighting for a lot longer. Mebbe its posting from google groups means am invsible. Great respect for Andrew and his generally helpful responses known also as a fellow poster to sci.engr.lighting for many years, sorry if appeared to single him out for talking half informed crap on this particular subject ,its really not personal but strongly disagree with him on this point and interested as to where this is all originating. Have come across this same nonsense recently both in the virtual and real world, halogen lamps are inefficient crap thats going to be illegal within 5 years, MR16 lamps wont be available anywhere but back street `bulb dealers`. Just to tidy up slightly, MR16 is a shape of lamp, its a 2" diameter reflector lamp. It can have all sorts of bases GU10 and GX5.3 for two and all sorts of wattages and voltages for all sorts of applications, for reasons of clarity will call the 230/240V MR16 a GU10 and 12V MR16 an LV lamp. LV MR16 was introduced as display lamp for commercial premises replacing PAR38`s and crown silvered lamps around the mid 1980`s. GU10 was introduced for reasons probably more to do with lamp makers margins than it being a good idea, 110V probably works marginally better 230V has always been heavily compromised, lifetime , colour temperature and beam control are crap. For some reason contractors and developers think GU10 is easier and cheaper to install than LV MR16 , perhaps ones who didn`t understand Low Voltage first time around, yes have seen qualified electricians hook up LV lamps to mains. LV halogen has excellent colour rendering, excellent beam control and very good efficiency for incandescent. Fluoro retofit lamps for GU10 are universally RUBBISH, they are crap, they do not work, they are a waste of money, hope made that clear enough they are green wash of the very worst kind. , Half informed, the proponents of MR16 is soon to be illegal, always seem to fail to suggest any realistic AVAILABLE alternative. Mr Gabriel specifically because his advice is usually good, is liaible to have his view that MR16s are about to become no longer available given more weight. But like others of this MR16s are a dissappearing breed persuasion , seems very light on alternatives. Have suggested a couple in a previous topic , do realise there is a difference between what is available to commercial users and what is availble in small quantities to domestic and D.I.Y. users. Scaremongering about lamps being outlawed without any evidence or suggesting valid alternatives is not helpful to the debate. Adam |
#9
Posted to uk.tech.digital-tv,uk.d-i-y,sci.engr.lighting
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TOT halogen efficiency
On Sat, 04 Jul 2009 06:49:09 -0700, Adam Aglionby wrote:
---8--- snip ---8--- Great respect for Andrew and his generally helpful responses known also as a fellow poster to sci.engr.lighting for many years, sorry if appeared to single him out for talking half informed crap on this particular subject ,its really not personal but strongly disagree with him on this point and interested as to where this is all originating. Have come across this same nonsense recently both in the virtual and real world, halogen lamps are inefficient crap thats going to be illegal within 5 years, MR16 lamps wont be available anywhere but back street `bulb dealers`. ---8--- snip ---8--- Fairy nuff: looks like a case of two pretty well informed folks who happen to disagree on certain issues. Sorry Adam, I hadn't noticed your name on this group until now (which probably says more about my observation than your contributions). Fluoro retofit lamps for GU10 are universally RUBBISH, they are crap, they do not work, they are a waste of money, hope made that clear enough they are green wash of the very worst kind. In the situation where one already has a GU10 fitting, then CFLs are - in my personal opinion - less awful than halogens. I have one fitting - a 4-way bar in the kitchen - where I've tried various types of CFL and cold-cathodes as well as halogens and find the warm white CFLs give a more pleasant light with a better spread than the halos. However the start-up time is abysmal and several of the samples have failed after just a few months, which at pushing £10 a pop is not nice. Hopefully the lifetime and start-up delay will be improved on and the price reduced over time. Even so the whole business of building the electronics into the lamp with the tube - and throwing it all away when the latter fails - is even more ludicrous where one may have half a dozen relatively low output lamps illuminating a room than where one has just one largish one. Half informed, the proponents of MR16 is soon to be illegal, always seem to fail to suggest any realistic AVAILABLE alternative. Maybe it's wishful thinking: that mains GU10s _should_ be illegal :-) Leaving aside the possibility that GU10 CFLs might become less awful, what about metal halide? ISTR reading (possibly in a post of Andrew's) that this could be a contender? -- John Stumbles Bad artists borrow Great artists steal |
#10
Posted to uk.tech.digital-tv,uk.d-i-y,sci.engr.lighting
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TOT halogen efficiency
On Jul 4, 2:49*pm, Adam Aglionby wrote:
On 4 July, 13:01, John Stumbles wrote: On Sat, 04 Jul 2009 04:14:45 -0700, Adam Aglionby wrote: Again , your suggestions for currently availabke suitable replacement lighting? Your source for beleiving MR16 will be "outlawed" within 5 years? Really there is some crap talked about lighting by the half informed. I guess you've come over from the uk.tech.digital-tv group? Andrew Gabriel has been posting on uk.d-i-y for many years and has consistently shown himself to be pretty clued up on lighting. Which is not to say that a request for references is unreasonable, but the "half informed" slur is ... well, half informed :-) Half informed, the proponents of MR16 is soon to be illegal, always seem to fail to suggest any realistic AVAILABLE alternative. seems very light on alternatives. I'm puzzled by your talk of alternatives, is there anyone here that doesnt know what other types of lighting are available? NT |
#11
Posted to uk.tech.digital-tv,uk.d-i-y,sci.engr.lighting
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TOT halogen efficiency
On 4 July, 14:49, Adam Aglionby wrote:
Fluoro retofit lamps for GU10 are universally RUBBISH, they are crap, they do not work, they are a waste of money, hope made that clear enough they are green wash of the very worst kind. Such hyperbole is not conducive to your other comments being taken seriously. I have a number of 7W fluorescent GU10 replacements (two in the porch and several in garden lighting units) and IMHO they're absolutely fine for those applications. In fact, the wider beam angle is actually beneficial. Richard. http://www.rtrussell.co.uk/ To reply by email change 'news' to my forename. |
#12
Posted to uk.tech.digital-tv,uk.d-i-y,sci.engr.lighting
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TOT halogen efficiency
In message
, Richard Russell writes On 4 July, 14:49, Adam Aglionby wrote: Fluoro retofit lamps for GU10 are universally RUBBISH, they are crap, they do not work, they are a waste of money, hope made that clear enough they are green wash of the very worst kind. Such hyperbole is not conducive to your other comments being taken seriously. I have a number of 7W fluorescent GU10 replacements (two in the porch and several in garden lighting units) and IMHO they're absolutely fine for those applications. In fact, the wider beam angle is actually beneficial. Has anyone tried the 7W G9 type? This is supposedly equivalent to a 35W filament bulb. I've presently got a light with a halogen 25W G9, and it's a bit too dim. I'm not sure what wattage filament lamp this is equivalent to. http://www.alertelectrical.com/Lamps...ng-Light-Bulbs /G9-GU9-Series-Low-Energy-Lamps/Megaman-7w-G9-Compact-Lamp-104221.asp However, what I really want to use is the higher power 9W GU9. http://www.alertelectrical.com/Lamps...ng-Light-Bulbs /G9-GU9-Series-Low-Energy-Lamps/Megaman-9w-GU9-Compact-Lamp-104326.asp This is supposedly equivalent to a 45W filament bulb. I ordered one online a couple of months ago, but it still hasn't arrived (apparently still on back order from the manufacturer). Has anyone used one of these. Do they actually exist, or are they simply 'vapourware' at present? -- Ian |
#13
Posted to uk.tech.digital-tv,uk.d-i-y
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TOT halogen efficiency
Adam Aglionby wrote:
SNIPPED Strongly suggest you look for a different lighting technology for any new installations. Downlighters are so bad for general lighting, and you may well find the EU outlaws the bulbs for them over the next 5 years (certainly the mains ones, and 12V may follow later). -- Andrew Gabriel [email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup] Again , your suggestions for currently availabke suitable replacement lighting? Your source for beleiving MR16 will be "outlawed" within 5 years? I did not see Andy make reference to MR16 in particular. However the general EU timetable is described at the end of this document: http://ec.europa.eu/energy/efficiency/ecodesign/doc/committee/2008_12_08_technical_briefing_household_lamps.pdf Really there is some crap talked about lighting by the half informed. Alas you need to include the law makers in that category. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#15
Posted to uk.tech.digital-tv,uk.d-i-y,sci.engr.lighting
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TOT halogen efficiency
On 4 July, 20:58, John Stumbles wrote:
On Sat, 04 Jul 2009 06:49:09 -0700, Adam Aglionby wrote: ---8--- snip ---8--- Great respect for Andrew and his generally helpful responses known also as a fellow poster to sci.engr.lighting for many years, sorry if appeared to single him out for talking half informed crap on this particular subject ,its really not personal but strongly disagree with him on this point and interested as to where this is all originating. Have come across this same nonsense recently both in the virtual and real world, halogen lamps are inefficient crap thats going to be illegal within 5 years, MR16 lamps wont be available anywhere but back street `bulb dealers`. ---8--- snip ---8--- Fairy nuff: looks like a case of two pretty well informed folks who happen to disagree on certain issues. Sorry Adam, I hadn't noticed your name on this group until now (which probably says more about my observation than your contributions). Im not a regular contrbutor to uk.d-i-y, though a regular reader and much appreciate the regular posters from whom I have learned a lot. Fluoro retofit lamps for GU10 are universally RUBBISH, they are crap, , hope made that clear enough they are green wash of the very worst kind. In the situation where one already has a GU10 fitting, then CFLs are - in my personal opinion - less awful than halogens. This is what I hate about GU10 fluro, its retrofitting a technology that shouldn`t have been fitted in the first place, allow me to rephrase GU10 are universally RUBBISH, they are crap, they do not work, they are a waste of money and the fluro retrofits are no better. I have one fitting - a 4-way bar in the kitchen - where I've tried various types of CFL and cold-cathodes as well as halogens and find the warm white CFLs give a more pleasant light with a better spread than the halos. However the start-up time is abysmal and several of the samples have failed after just a few months, which at pushing £10 a pop is not nice. Hopefully the lifetime and start-up delay will be improved on and the price reduced over time. 2" lamp is very tight to curl a tube into and fit the driver electronics, embodied energy, waste and replacement cost dosn`t add up to a green lamp thats for sure. Even so the whole business of building the electronics into the lamp with the tube - and throwing it all away when the latter fails - Something do not understand about current race for CFL is ignoring PL base lamps, the electronics in the base and throwawy tube. is even more ludicrous where one may have half a dozen relatively low output lamps illuminating a room than where one has just one largish one. There is advantages to using multiple sources, avoiding shadows being a top priority. Half informed, the proponents of MR16 is soon to be illegal, always seem to fail to suggest any realistic AVAILABLE alternative. Maybe it's wishful thinking: that mains GU10s _should_ be illegal :-) Very true :-) Leaving aside the possibility that GU10 CFLs might become less awful, Need to get away from GU10 and fluro in same sentence, fluro can be a very good source but not crammed into a 2" spotlight fitting. MR16 2" lamp format is great for spotlighting but aging not with a 240V filament crammed into it. what about metal halide? ISTR reading (possibly in a post of Andrew's) that this could be a contender? Hopefully it should be coming through , used to be only availble in big lamps couple hundred watts up but with commercial use growing all the time and miniature lamps for automotive use now big, cost and size aren`t the problems they used to be , takes some innovative fitting makers to make domestic acceptable designs. Metal halide can make a great source, but hopefully not just as a GU10 retrofit. Adam -- John Stumbles Bad artists borrow Great artists steal |
#16
Posted to uk.tech.digital-tv,uk.d-i-y,sci.engr.lighting
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TOT halogen efficiency
On 4 July, 22:01, NT wrote:
SNIP I'm puzzled by your talk of alternatives, is there anyone here that doesnt know what other types of lighting are available? NT Think if people did "know what other types of lighting are available" and crucially how to correctly select appropriate to task, wouldn`t have a world full of worthless GU10s and hopeless retofits. Adam , |
#17
Posted to uk.tech.digital-tv,uk.d-i-y,sci.engr.lighting
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TOT halogen efficiency
On 4 July, 22:26, Richard Russell wrote:
On 4 July, 14:49, Adam Aglionby wrote: Fluoro retofit lamps for GU10 are universally RUBBISH, they are crap, they do not work, they are a waste of money, hope made that clear enough they are green wash of the very worst kind. Such hyperbole is not conducive to your other comments being taken seriously. *I have a number of 7W fluorescent GU10 replacements (two in the porch and several in garden lighting units) and IMHO they're absolutely fine for those applications. *In fact, the wider beam angle is actually beneficial. Richard.http://www.rtrussell.co.uk/ To reply by email change 'news' to my forename. Clearly your lighting requirements for your porch and garden are different from what you need chopping veg in the kitchen. Unfortunate that you were unable to find appropraite fluro or LED units for your application and had to adapt products to make them suitable for use. Adam |
#18
Posted to uk.tech.digital-tv,uk.d-i-y,sci.engr.lighting
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TOT halogen efficiency
On 4 July, 23:02, Ian Jackson
wrote: In message , Richard Russell writesOn 4 July, 14:49, Adam Aglionby wrote: Fluoro retofit lamps for GU10 are universally RUBBISH, they are crap, they do not work, they are a waste of money, hope made that clear enough they are green wash of the very worst kind. Such hyperbole is not conducive to your other comments being taken seriously. *I have a number of 7W fluorescent GU10 replacements (two in the porch and several in garden lighting units) and IMHO they're absolutely fine for those applications. *In fact, the wider beam angle is actually beneficial. Has anyone tried the 7W G9 type? This is supposedly equivalent to a 35W filament bulb. I've presently got a light with a halogen 25W G9, and it's a bit too dim. I'm not sure what wattage filament lamp this is equivalent to. http://www.alertelectrical.com/Lamps-And-Tubes/Energy-Saving-Light-Bu... However, what I really want to use is the higher power 9W GU9. http://www.alertelectrical.com/Lamps-And-Tubes/Energy-Saving-Light-Bu... This is supposedly equivalent to a 45W filament bulb. I ordered one online a couple of months ago, but it still hasn't arrived (apparently still on back order from the manufacturer). Has anyone used one of these. Do they actually exist, or are they simply 'vapourware' at present? -- Ian Going to guess thats a very tight fit in a G9 fitting, perhaps you could look for an LV light fitting and burn an extra 11W and get the intensity and higher colour temp along with good lamp lifer your after. Adam |
#19
Posted to uk.tech.digital-tv,uk.d-i-y,sci.engr.lighting
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TOT halogen efficiency
On 5 July, 10:27, Roderick Stewart
wrote: In article cb4261d3-91f6-4141-88ae- , Adam Aglionby wrote: Fluoro retofit lamps for GU10 are universally RUBBISH, they are crap, they do not work, they are a waste of money, hope made that clear enough they are green wash of the very worst kind. Apart from the slight nuisance that they're slightly bigger than the filament ones so you have to choose from a limited range of light fittings that can take them, I've found Fluoro GU10s to be absolutely fine. They give just as much light with less electrical power, Afraid they don`t. much more pleasant soft light that isn't a horrible green colour, and I can hot-swap them without burning my fingers. Guess your thinking of Cold Cathode FLuro CCFL which seems to be chosen mathod fpr retrofit in GU10s which moticeably dosnt` have the green cast of low quality CFL, if your halogen GU10s had a green cast you have other problems... ;-) Adam Rod. -- Virtual Access V6.3 free usenet/email software fromhttp://sourceforge.net/projects/virtual-access/ |
#20
Posted to uk.tech.digital-tv,uk.d-i-y,sci.engr.lighting
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TOT halogen efficiency
On 4 July, 23:33, John Rumm wrote:
Adam Aglionby wrote: SNIPPED Strongly suggest you look for a different lighting technology for any new installations. Downlighters are so bad for general lighting, and you may well find the EU outlaws the bulbs for them over the next 5 years (certainly the mains ones, and 12V may follow later). -- Andrew Gabriel [email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup] Again , your suggestions for currently availabke suitable replacement lighting? Your source for beleiving MR16 will be "outlawed" within 5 years? I did not see Andy make reference to MR16 in particular. However the general EU timetable is described at the end of this document: http://ec.europa.eu/energy/efficiency/ecodesign/doc/committee/2008_12... I took the inference that he was refering to MR16 both LV and GU10 being ill advised for a new installation because of an uncertain future. The timetable relies on suitable alternatives being developed , for a lot of uses of MR16 lamps there is no current or on the horizon replacement. Really there is some crap talked about lighting by the half informed. Alas you need to include the law makers in that category. Very regretably so. Adam -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | * * * * *Internode Ltd - *http://www.internode.co.uk* * * * * *| |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | * * * *John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk * * * * * * *| \================================================= ================/ |
#21
Posted to uk.tech.digital-tv,uk.d-i-y,sci.engr.lighting
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TOT halogen efficiency
In article 3504a3c2-f17f-426e-a5e4-
, Adam Aglionby wrote: Apart from the slight nuisance that they're slightly bigger than the filament ones so you have to choose from a limited range of light fittings that can take them, I've found Fluoro GU10s to be absolutely fine. They give just as much light with less electrical power, Afraid they don`t. Well, I'm not a photometer, but subjectively four low power fluorescent GU10s on a lighting bar give plenty of light for me to sit at this computer, just as the halogen ones did, so effectively they do the same job with much lower power consumption. And it' a more pleasant light, not being concentrated in tiny spots that show up the most microscopic bits of muck on spectacle lenses. Rod. -- Virtual Access V6.3 free usenet/email software from http://sourceforge.net/projects/virtual-access/ |
#22
Posted to uk.tech.digital-tv,uk.d-i-y,sci.engr.lighting
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TOT halogen efficiency
In message
, Adam Aglionby writes On 4 July, 23:02, Ian Jackson wrote: In message , Richard Russell writesOn 4 July, 14:49, Adam Aglionby wrote: Fluoro retofit lamps for GU10 are universally RUBBISH, they are crap, they do not work, they are a waste of money, hope made that clear enough they are green wash of the very worst kind. Such hyperbole is not conducive to your other comments being taken seriously. *I have a number of 7W fluorescent GU10 replacements (two in the porch and several in garden lighting units) and IMHO they're absolutely fine for those applications. *In fact, the wider beam angle is actually beneficial. Has anyone tried the 7W G9 type? This is supposedly equivalent to a 35W filament bulb. I've presently got a light with a halogen 25W G9, and it's a bit too dim. I'm not sure what wattage filament lamp this is equivalent to. http://www.alertelectrical.com/Lamps-And-Tubes/Energy-Saving-Light-Bu... However, what I really want to use is the higher power 9W GU9. http://www.alertelectrical.com/Lamps-And-Tubes/Energy-Saving-Light-Bu... This is supposedly equivalent to a 45W filament bulb. I ordered one online a couple of months ago, but it still hasn't arrived (apparently still on back order from the manufacturer). Has anyone used one of these. Do they actually exist, or are they simply 'vapourware' at present? -- Ian Going to guess thats a very tight fit in a G9 fitting, perhaps you could look for an LV light fitting and burn an extra 11W and get the intensity and higher colour temp along with good lamp lifer your after. I'll find out how tight if I ever receive one! We bought the (ceiling) light because my wife liked it, but, at the time, I did express my doubts as to whether the 25W halogen (which is the maximum rating for that style of light) would really be bright enough. The executive decision went against me, but the executive now admits that I might have been right. I took careful measurements of the existing lamp holder and its relation to the rest of the inside of the light, and I reckoned that if I moved it as far as possible (backwards) to the side of the light base plate, the zig-zag glass tube of the Megaman 9W CFL bulb would be right in the centre of the light bowl. Even though it is very chunky, there is about 1mm clearance with respect to the base plate. [If not, I could modify things further.] Even a 9W CFL should run a lot cooler than a 25W halogen. The only problem is, does this lamp really exist? If not, as you suggest, I'll have to consider changing the lamp holder - or even replacing the whole light. -- Ian |
#23
Posted to uk.tech.digital-tv,uk.d-i-y,sci.engr.lighting
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TOT halogen efficiency
On Jul 5, 2:11*pm, Ian Jackson
wrote: In message , Adam Aglionby writes On 4 July, 23:02, Ian Jackson wrote: In message , Richard Russell writesOn 4 July, 14:49, Adam Aglionby wrote: Fluoro retofit lamps for GU10 are universally RUBBISH, they are crap, they do not work, they are a waste of money, hope made that clear enough they are green wash of the very worst kind. Such hyperbole is not conducive to your other comments being taken seriously. *I have a number of 7W fluorescent GU10 replacements (two in the porch and several in garden lighting units) and IMHO they're absolutely fine for those applications. *In fact, the wider beam angle is actually beneficial. Has anyone tried the 7W G9 type? This is supposedly equivalent to a 35W filament bulb. I've presently got a light with a halogen 25W G9, and it's a bit too dim. I'm not sure what wattage filament lamp this is equivalent to. http://www.alertelectrical.com/Lamps-And-Tubes/Energy-Saving-Light-Bu.... However, what I really want to use is the higher power 9W GU9. http://www.alertelectrical.com/Lamps-And-Tubes/Energy-Saving-Light-Bu.... This is supposedly equivalent to a 45W filament bulb. I ordered one online a couple of months ago, but it still hasn't arrived (apparently still on back order from the manufacturer). Has anyone used one of these. Do they actually exist, or are they simply 'vapourware' at present? -- Ian Going to guess thats a very tight fit in a G9 fitting, perhaps you could look for an LV light fitting and burn an extra 11W and get the intensity and higher colour temp along with good lamp lifer your after. I'll find out how tight if I ever receive one! We bought the (ceiling) light because my wife liked it, but, at the time, I did express my doubts as to whether the 25W halogen (which is the maximum rating for that style of light) would really be bright enough. The executive decision went against me, but the executive now admits that I might have been right. I took careful measurements of the existing lamp holder and its relation to the rest of the inside of the light, and I reckoned that if I moved it as far as possible (backwards) to the side of the light base plate, the zig-zag glass tube of the Megaman 9W CFL bulb would be right in the centre of the light bowl. Even though it is very chunky, there is about 1mm clearance with respect to the base plate. [If not, I could modify things further.] Even a 9W CFL should run a lot cooler than a 25W halogen. The only problem is, does this lamp really exist? If not, as you suggest, I'll have to consider changing the lamp holder - or even replacing the whole light. Might be easier to leave it be and fit additional concealed lighting to make up the deficiency NT |
#24
Posted to uk.tech.digital-tv,uk.d-i-y,sci.engr.lighting
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TOT halogen efficiency
In message
, NT writes On Jul 5, 2:11*pm, Ian Jackson wrote: In message , Adam Aglionby writes Going to guess thats a very tight fit in a G9 fitting, perhaps you could look for an LV light fitting and burn an extra 11W and get the intensity and higher colour temp along with good lamp lifer your after. I'll find out how tight if I ever receive one! We bought the (ceiling) light because my wife liked it, but, at the time, I did express my doubts as to whether the 25W halogen (which is the maximum rating for that style of light) would really be bright enough. The executive decision went against me, but the executive now admits that I might have been right. I took careful measurements of the existing lamp holder and its relation to the rest of the inside of the light, and I reckoned that if I moved it as far as possible (backwards) to the side of the light base plate, the zig-zag glass tube of the Megaman 9W CFL bulb would be right in the centre of the light bowl. Even though it is very chunky, there is about 1mm clearance with respect to the base plate. [If not, I could modify things further.] Even a 9W CFL should run a lot cooler than a 25W halogen. The only problem is, does this lamp really exist? If not, as you suggest, I'll have to consider changing the lamp holder - or even replacing the whole light. Might be easier to leave it be and fit additional concealed lighting to make up the deficiency No really. It's in a newly-built shower + toilet area, and I don't want any more electrics than necessary. If the 9 watt GU9 fits, it should be just about adequate. I've sent another chasing email to the vendor. It was originally due 16 April! -- Ian |
#25
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TOT halogen efficiency
Adam Aglionby wrote:
Andrew Gabriel [email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup] Again , your suggestions for currently availabke suitable replacement lighting? Your source for beleiving MR16 will be "outlawed" within 5 years? I did not see Andy make reference to MR16 in particular. However the general EU timetable is described at the end of this document: http://ec.europa.eu/energy/efficiency/ecodesign/doc/committee/2008_12... I took the inference that he was refering to MR16 both LV and GU10 being ill advised for a new installation because of an uncertain future. I expect his ire was more focussed on GU10 in particular than the overall form factor. However I stand to be corrected. The timetable relies on suitable alternatives being developed , for a lot of uses of MR16 lamps there is no current or on the horizon replacement. Well the difficulty is who gets to decide what is "suitable". Many would argue that there is currently no suitable replacement for a 100W GLS bulb - the alternatives having poorer colour rendition and/or slow warm up times, or incompatibility with dimmers, plus a range of other problems. However this does not seem to have stopped the powers that be from suggesting that these can be replaced with CFL substitutes. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#26
Posted to uk.tech.digital-tv,uk.d-i-y,sci.engr.lighting
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TOT halogen efficiency
On 5 July, 23:49, John Rumm wrote:
Adam Aglionby wrote: Andrew Gabriel [email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup] Again , your suggestions for currently availabke suitable replacement lighting? Your source for beleiving MR16 will be "outlawed" within 5 years? I did not see Andy make reference to MR16 in particular. However the general EU timetable is described at the end of this document: http://ec.europa.eu/energy/efficiency/ecodesign/doc/committee/2008_12.... I took the inference that he was refering to MR16 both LV and GU10 being ill advised for a new installation because of an uncertain future. I expect his ire was more focussed on GU10 in particular than the overall form factor. However I stand to be corrected. Problem is people read it as all MR16 format lighting including LV. The timetable relies on suitable alternatives being developed , for a lot of uses of MR16 lamps there is no current or on the horizon replacement. Well the difficulty is who gets to decide what is "suitable". Many would argue that there is currently no suitable replacement for a 100W GLS bulb - the alternatives having poorer colour rendition and/or slow warm up times, or incompatibility with dimmers, plus a range of other problems. However this does not seem to have stopped the powers that be from suggesting that these can be replaced with CFL substitutes. More than suggesting :-( Ingo Maurer, lighting designer who came up with LV MR16 lights on wires amongst other things, protests ;-) http://www.designboom.com/weblog/cat/8/view/6169/ingo-maurer-euro-condom.html Cheers Adam -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | * * * * *Internode Ltd - *http://www.internode.co.uk* * * * * *| |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | * * * *John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk * * * * * * *| \================================================= ================/ |
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