As part the process of refurbishing a room, it has become decidedly
beneficial to rehang the entrance door so that the hinges are moved to
the LHS instead of the RHS. But this would mean that the existing
light switch would then be behind the door when open. The only way
around this is to move the switch and mount it on the side of a tall
book case.
I want the switch to be flush when viewed as one enters the room and
so I am looking for some kind of sunken pattress box or enclosure that
can be screwed on to the inner side of the book case. Have looked at
dry wall boxes but don’t consider these to be durable or totally
secure if knocked from behind.

Is there something out there which has 4 lugs with screw holes that
enable you to screw it on - preferably in metal but strong plastic
without any knock-outs would also be suitable.

Any suggestions?


VT

In article
,
Vet Tech wrote:
As part the process of refurbishing a room, it has become decidedly
beneficial to rehang the entrance door so that the hinges are moved to
the LHS instead of the RHS. But this would mean that the existing
light switch would then be behind the door when open. The only way
around this is to move the switch and mount it on the side of a tall
book case.
I want the switch to be flush when viewed as one enters the room and
so I am looking for some kind of sunken pattress box or enclosure that
can be screwed on to the inner side of the book case. Have looked at
dry wall boxes but don’t consider these to be durable or totally
secure if knocked from behind.

Is there something out there which has 4 lugs with screw holes that
enable you to screw it on - preferably in metal but strong plastic
without any knock-outs would also be suitable.

I'd say a surface mount metal box would be the neatest way - scroll down
to the bottom of the page.

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Ind...ace/index.html

Any suggestions?

They are similar to a normal steel backing box but have rounded 'corners'
so neater. If you carefully do the cutout into the wood so it pushes in
from the outside and is a tight fit it could be secured to the wood with
some Evostick Serious glue - or if the wood is thick enough a couple of
small screws into it.

You could use a compression gland to give a neater cable exit from the box
than a grommet - something like this:-

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Ind...lon/index.html


VT

--
*Why is it that most nudists are people you don't want to see naked?*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

I'd say a surface mount metal box would be the neatest way - scroll down
to the bottom of the page.

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Ind...enu_Index/...*

Any suggestions?

They are similar to a normal steel backing box but have rounded 'corners'
so neater. If you carefully do the cutout into the wood so it pushes in
from the outside and is a tight fit it could be secured to the wood with
some Evostick Serious glue - or if the wood is thick enough a couple of
small screws into it. *



That's certainly one work-around and I guess if it wasnt a tight fit
initially, I could cut 4 short lengths of 10mmx 10mm aluminium angle
and glue these one on each side to the box at the back. Then it would
be fixed real good. Thanks.
VT

"Vet Tech" wrote

As part the process of refurbishing a room, it has become decidedly
beneficial to rehang the entrance door so that the hinges are moved to
the LHS instead of the RHS. But this would mean that the existing
light switch would then be behind the door when open. The only way
around this is to move the switch and mount it on the side of a tall
book case.
I want the switch to be flush when viewed as one enters the room and
so I am looking for some kind of sunken pattress box or enclosure that
can be screwed on to the inner side of the book case. Have looked at
dry wall boxes but don’t consider these to be durable or totally
secure if knocked from behind.

Is there something out there which has 4 lugs with screw holes that
enable you to screw it on - preferably in metal but strong plastic
without any knock-outs would also be suitable.

Any suggestions?


VT

Can you cut a square hole in the book case for a standard metal back box,
then fasten a wood back-plate over the hole on the inside of the bookcase?
That way you can screw the metal back box to the inner wooden plate to get a
flush fit of the switch face plate
..
If you pack the wood back-plate off the cupboard carcase a bit:
a) You can adjust the depth of back box it will accommodate
AND
b) You could run trunking down inside the cupboard straight into a knock-out
in the metal back box.
I-Y-S-W-I-M!!!

Somewhat depends on how much you are prepared to "adjust" the inside of the
book case.

Phil

Can you cut a square hole in the book case for a standard metal back box,
then fasten a wood back-plate over the hole on the inside of the bookcase?
That way you can screw the metal back box to the inner wooden plate to get a
flush fit of the switch face plate
.
If you pack the wood back-plate off the cupboard carcase a bit:
a) You can adjust the depth of back box it will accommodate
AND
b) You could run trunking down inside the cupboard straight into a knock-out
in the metal back box.
I-Y-S-W-I-M!!!

Somewhat depends on how much you are prepared to "adjust" the inside of the
book case.

Phil

I don't know how thick the side of the book case is yet but I guess
the best end result will be dependent on finding the shallowest
switch and getting this into the shallowest back box. Most of the
metal boxes I've seen are 50 - 60mm deep.

VT

On Thu, 11 Jun 2009 16:19:14 UTC, Vet Tech
wrote:



Can you cut a square hole in the book case for a standard metal back box,
then fasten a wood back-plate over the hole on the inside of the bookcase?
That way you can screw the metal back box to the inner wooden plate to get a
flush fit of the switch face plate
.
If you pack the wood back-plate off the cupboard carcase a bit:
a) You can adjust the depth of back box it will accommodate
AND
b) You could run trunking down inside the cupboard straight into a knock-out
in the metal back box.
I-Y-S-W-I-M!!!

Somewhat depends on how much you are prepared to "adjust" the inside of the
book case.

Phil

I don't know how thick the side of the book case is yet but I guess
the best end result will be dependent on finding the shallowest
switch and getting this into the shallowest back box. Most of the
metal boxes I've seen are 50 - 60mm deep.

I was wondering if an architrave switch would be neater...
--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
http://www.diybanter.com

In article
,
Vet Tech wrote:
They are similar to a normal steel backing box but have rounded
'corners' so neater. If you carefully do the cutout into the wood so
it pushes in from the outside and is a tight fit it could be secured
to the wood with some Evostick Serious glue - or if the wood is thick
enough a couple of small screws into it.



That's certainly one work-around and I guess if it wasnt a tight fit
initially, I could cut 4 short lengths of 10mmx 10mm aluminium angle
and glue these one on each side to the box at the back. Then it would
be fixed real good. Thanks.

From the neatness point of view I'd spend the time on making the hole in
the wood properly to give a good fit. If you've got a scanner - scan the
box for a template, print it out and glue to the outside of the bookcase.
Drill four holes of the correct diameter in the corners. Used a jigsaw etc
to cut out the rest leaving some waste - then file down to the line. Those
boxes have a slight rim so you'd need to relieve the front of the hole for
a perfect flush fit. Then glue in place. Shouldn't take any longer than
cutting and drilling ally angle - and should look very much better.

--
*Don't squat with your spurs on *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 11 June, 17:27, "Bob Eager" wrote:
On Thu, 11 Jun 2009 16:19:14 UTC, Vet Tech
wrote:







Can you cut a square hole in the book case for a standard metal back box,
then fasten a wood back-plate over the hole on the inside of the bookcase?
That way you can screw the metal back box to the inner wooden plate to get a
flush fit of the switch face plate
.
If you pack the wood back-plate off the cupboard carcase a bit:
a) You can adjust the depth of back box it will accommodate
AND
b) You could run trunking down inside the cupboard straight into a knock-out
in the metal back box.
I-Y-S-W-I-M!!!

Somewhat depends on how much you are prepared to "adjust" the inside of the
book case.

Phil

I don't know how thick the side of the book case is yet but I guess
the best end result will be dependent *on finding the shallowest
switch and getting this into the shallowest back box. Most of the
metal boxes I've seen are 50 - 60mm deep.

I was wondering if an architrave switch would be neater...

Bob,

There might just be enough room for that. I did a quick search on Ebay
and found a two gang (double- decker style) architrave switch with a
width of 35mm. At £5 it's worth a try,

VT

Vet Tech wrote:

I don't know how thick the side of the book case is yet but I guess
the best end result will be dependent *on finding the shallowest
switch and getting this into the shallowest back box. Most of the
metal boxes I've seen are 50 - 60mm deep.

How about a 16mm box? E.g.
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Boxes_and_Enclosures_Index/Boxes_Flush/index.html
or http://preview.tinyurl.com/n7nuvg if the long URL causes a line wrap
problem. That should fit in the thickness of most book cases. You'll
probably need to add a small wood panel inside the book case to hide the
back of the box.

--
Mike Clarke

On 11/06/2009 14:30 Vet Tech wrote:

I want the switch to be flush when viewed as one enters the room and
so I am looking for some kind of sunken pattress box or enclosure that
can be screwed on to the inner side of the book case.

I'm not sure if I'm missing the point but could you use a combination of
a plastic pattress and extra long switch to box screws?

Cut the hole in the bookcase only just wide enough to let the sticky out
bits on the switch through and then use the long screws to trap the
bookcase between the box on one side and the switch on the other side,
ie the bookcase is the jam in the box/switch sandwich.

Some careful additional insulating may be needed.

IYSWIM

--
F

On 11 June, 18:35, F news@nowhere wrote:
On 11/06/2009 14:30 Vet Tech wrote:

I want the switch to be flush when viewed as one enters the room and
so I am looking for some kind of sunken pattress box or enclosure that
can be screwed on to the inner side of the book case.

I'm not sure if I'm missing the point but could you use a combination of
a plastic pattress and extra long switch to box screws?

Cut the hole in the bookcase only just wide enough to let the sticky out
bits on the switch through and then use the long screws to trap the
bookcase between the box on one side and the switch on the other side,
ie the bookcase is the jam in the box/switch sandwich.

Some careful additional insulating may be needed.

IYSWIM

--
F

OK, ISWYM. If say the side of the book case is greater than 16mm
thick (minimum switch depth?) , I could use your idea but dispense
with the box and get a flat plate behind and trap the book case
between the switch and the plate using long screws (bolts) and nuts
behind the plate. That way it would be virtually flush inside apart
from the nuts.
VT

In article
,
Vet Tech wrote:

[snip]


OK, ISWYM. If say the side of the book case is greater than 16mm
thick (minimum switch depth?) , I could use your idea but dispense
with the box and get a flat plate behind and trap the book case
between the switch and the plate using long screws (bolts) and nuts
behind the plate. That way it would be virtually flush inside apart
from the nuts.

The switch should be encased in a non combustible material. Which in
general means a backing box.

--
*I don't have a solution, but I admire your problem. *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article
,
Vet Tech wrote:
They are similar to a normal steel backing box but have rounded
'corners' so neater. If you carefully do the cutout into the wood so
it pushes in from the outside and is a tight fit it could be secured
to the wood with some Evostick Serious glue - or if the wood is thick
enough a couple of small screws into it.



That's certainly one work-around and I guess if it wasnt a tight fit
initially, I could cut 4 short lengths of 10mmx 10mm aluminium angle
and glue these one on each side to the box at the back. Then it would
be fixed real good. Thanks.

From the neatness point of view I'd spend the time on making the hole in
the wood properly to give a good fit. If you've got a scanner - scan the
box for a template, print it out and glue to the outside of the bookcase.
Drill four holes of the correct diameter in the corners. Used a jigsaw etc
to cut out the rest leaving some waste - then file down to the line. Those
boxes have a slight rim so you'd need to relieve the front of the hole for
a perfect flush fit. Then glue in place. Shouldn't take any longer than
cutting and drilling ally angle - and should look very much better.

I wouldn't assume that the printed scanned image will be 1:1 with
original. Photocopies often aren't actual size either.
What's wrong with using the box itself as a template?

--
Graham.

%Profound_observation%

In article ,
Graham. wrote:
From the neatness point of view I'd spend the time on making the hole
in the wood properly to give a good fit. If you've got a scanner -
scan the box for a template, print it out and glue to the outside of
the bookcase. Drill four holes of the correct diameter in the corners.
Used a jigsaw etc to cut out the rest leaving some waste - then file
down to the line. Those boxes have a slight rim so you'd need to
relieve the front of the hole for a perfect flush fit. Then glue in
place. Shouldn't take any longer than cutting and drilling ally angle
- and should look very much better.

I wouldn't assume that the printed scanned image will be 1:1 with
original.

Sorry - I use an ancient Acorn machine and it is with that. Yet another
reason to only use the PC for as little as possible.

--
*What boots up must come down *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
Graham. wrote:
I wouldn't assume that the printed scanned image will be 1:1 with
original. Photocopies often aren't actual size either.
What's wrong with using the box itself as a template?

Well, it's the way I'd do it. Scan and transfer into Draw. Draw round the
outline. Add the centres for the holes which will produce the radius for
the corners - and at the same time note what drill size needed. Print out
and glue to the work. It's a quick way of producing a template for this
sort of thing if you wish to make an accurate job.

--
*It's lonely at the top, but you eat better.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Vet Tech wrote:
As part the process of refurbishing a room, it has become decidedly
beneficial to rehang the entrance door so that the hinges are moved to
the LHS instead of the RHS. But this would mean that the existing
light switch would then be behind the door when open. The only way
around this is to move the switch and mount it on the side of a tall
book case.

Or install a pull cord on the ceiling :-)

Toby...

On Thu, 11 Jun 2009 06:30:20 -0700 (PDT), Vet Tech
wrote:

As part the process of refurbishing a room, it has become decidedly
beneficial to rehang the entrance door so that the hinges are moved to
the LHS instead of the RHS. But this would mean that the existing
light switch would then be behind the door when open. The only way
around this is to move the switch and mount it on the side of a tall
book case.

I've seen all the suggestions made, but was there not a post some time ago about
fitting sockets to a kitchen unit - where the opinion was that you should not
fit to furniture?
(I admit to having fitted a nice stainless light switch to our mahogany veneered
headboard but it was using flex to a two pin socket on the wall.)

--
Geo

On Fri, 12 Jun 2009 19:48:38 +0100, Owain
wrote:

Geo wrote:
(I admit to having fitted a nice stainless light switch to our mahogany veneered
headboard but it was using flex to a two pin socket on the wall.)

How did you earth it?

The bed was class II ...


--
Geo

"Owain" wrote in message
...
Geo wrote:
(I admit to having fitted a nice stainless light switch to our mahogany
veneered
headboard but it was using flex to a two pin socket on the wall.)

How did you earth it?

One hand on the ch pipe and one on the switch plate.