I'm installing around x10 (Aurora - 12v - fire protected) Downlights in my
Kitchen's plasterboard ceiling.

The plasterboard's hole cut out diameter is going to be 85 mm for each
downlight - what is the best way to make these cut outs?

Steve

You can get an adjustable cutter with a big shroud round it to catch
the dust and off cut.Should be in the diy sheds, or try screwfix.
I don't do many so a cheapo set of hole cutters and a plasterboard
saw , maybe 5/6quid does the job well enough.I've often found the
diameter of the whole cutters never matches the diameter of the cut
out,annoying

"steveybar" wrote in message
...
I'm installing around x10 (Aurora - 12v - fire protected) Downlights in my
Kitchen's plasterboard ceiling.

The plasterboard's hole cut out diameter is going to be 85 mm for each
downlight - what is the best way to make these cut outs?

a hole saw

steveybar wrote:
I'm installing around x10 (Aurora - 12v - fire protected) Downlights in my
Kitchen's plasterboard ceiling.

The plasterboard's hole cut out diameter is going to be 85 mm for each
downlight - what is the best way to make these cut outs?


hole cutter if you can find one that size, or just a padsaw, or even a
serrated knife.

I found that an oversized hole was well covered by the fittings, and a
smear of decorators caulk stopped the fittings sliding sideways.

Steve

In article ,
steveybar wrote:
I'm installing around x10 (Aurora - 12v - fire protected) Downlights in
my Kitchen's plasterboard ceiling.

The plasterboard's hole cut out diameter is going to be 85 mm for each
downlight - what is the best way to make these cut outs?

Holesaw is the best. But one that size might be expensive.

Can be done easily enough with a keyhole saw. But requires more skill for
a neat job.

--
*The only difference between a rut and a grave is the depth.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"steveybar" wrote in message
...
I'm installing around x10 (Aurora - 12v - fire protected) Downlights in my
Kitchen's plasterboard ceiling.

The plasterboard's hole cut out diameter is going to be 85 mm for each
downlight - what is the best way to make these cut outs?

I have a fly-cutter with a big dish under it that catches all the rubbish.
Unlike a hole saw, you can set the diameter to exactly what you want.
However, fly cutters in power tools are potentially quite dangerous. If you
are only cutting plasterboard, a hand drill will be adequate and will give
you more control over the cut.

Colin Bignell

nightjar cpb@ wrote:
"steveybar" wrote in message
...
I'm installing around x10 (Aurora - 12v - fire protected) Downlights in my
Kitchen's plasterboard ceiling.

The plasterboard's hole cut out diameter is going to be 85 mm for each
downlight - what is the best way to make these cut outs?

I have a fly-cutter with a big dish under it that catches all the rubbish.
Unlike a hole saw, you can set the diameter to exactly what you want.
However, fly cutters in power tools are potentially quite dangerous. If you
are only cutting plasterboard, a hand drill will be adequate and will give
you more control over the cut.

Colin Bignell


Really, Ive done them with a 'kitchen devil' knife.

They don't have to even be neat. the fitting covers well.

I ran a bead of caulk up to the edge, and that makes painting with them
in place really easy too, apart from stopping them sliding about when
you change bulbs.

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
nightjar cpb@ wrote:
"steveybar" wrote in message
...
I'm installing around x10 (Aurora - 12v - fire protected) Downlights
in my Kitchen's plasterboard ceiling.

The plasterboard's hole cut out diameter is going to be 85 mm for
each downlight - what is the best way to make these cut outs?

I have a fly-cutter with a big dish under it that catches all the
rubbish. Unlike a hole saw, you can set the diameter to exactly what
you want. However, fly cutters in power tools are potentially quite
dangerous. If you are only cutting plasterboard, a hand drill will be
adequate and will give you more control over the cut.

Colin Bignell

Really, Ive done them with a 'kitchen devil' knife.

They don't have to even be neat. the fitting covers well.

I ran a bead of caulk up to the edge, and that makes painting with them
in place really easy too, apart from stopping them sliding about when
you change bulbs.

I used a £3 plasterboard saw. On lath and plaster ceilings I'd say it
was probably the only way to do it. The spring in the fitting snaps
pretty tightly on thicker plasterboard, but not sure about the 9.5 mm

"steveybar" wrote in message
...
I'm installing around x10 (Aurora - 12v - fire protected) Downlights in my
Kitchen's plasterboard ceiling.

The plasterboard's hole cut out diameter is going to be 85 mm for each
downlight - what is the best way to make these cut outs?

Steve

I used a hole saw for a similar job 12 years ago that I got cheap, it is
89mm diameter and you are welcome to borrow it if suitable and you are near
Leeds West Yorks.

HTH

John

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
nightjar cpb@ wrote:
"steveybar" wrote in message
...
I'm installing around x10 (Aurora - 12v - fire protected) Downlights in
my Kitchen's plasterboard ceiling.

The plasterboard's hole cut out diameter is going to be 85 mm for each
downlight - what is the best way to make these cut outs?

I have a fly-cutter with a big dish under it that catches all the
rubbish. Unlike a hole saw, you can set the diameter to exactly what you
want. However, fly cutters in power tools are potentially quite
dangerous. If you are only cutting plasterboard, a hand drill will be
adequate and will give you more control over the cut.

Colin Bignell
Really, Ive done them with a 'kitchen devil' knife.

They don't have to even be neat. the fitting covers well....

There we have a basic difference in philosophjy. I don't think that
something not being visible is a reason not to do it neatly.

Colin Bignell

nightjar cpb@ wrote:
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
nightjar cpb@ wrote:
"steveybar" wrote in message
...
I'm installing around x10 (Aurora - 12v - fire protected) Downlights in
my Kitchen's plasterboard ceiling.

The plasterboard's hole cut out diameter is going to be 85 mm for each
downlight - what is the best way to make these cut outs?
I have a fly-cutter with a big dish under it that catches all the
rubbish. Unlike a hole saw, you can set the diameter to exactly what you
want. However, fly cutters in power tools are potentially quite
dangerous. If you are only cutting plasterboard, a hand drill will be
adequate and will give you more control over the cut.

Colin Bignell
Really, Ive done them with a 'kitchen devil' knife.

They don't have to even be neat. the fitting covers well....

There we have a basic difference in philosophjy. I don't think that
something not being visible is a reason not to do it neatly.

Agreed, but its a definite reason not to get ultra prissy about it.

Are you the sort of man who goes over the building site before the
suspended floors go in, with a black bag, picking up all the half
bricks, screws and mortar blobs, and getting the lads to sweep the soil
clean and level it with a whacker?

Sorry, I don't like a mess either, but the only layer that gets the
perfection treatment is decoration..and visible joinery.


Structure is structure, and its not there to look pretty, its there to
hold the important stuff up.


Colin Bignell

"John" wrote in message
...

"steveybar" wrote in message
...
I'm installing around x10 (Aurora - 12v - fire protected) Downlights in
my Kitchen's plasterboard ceiling.

The plasterboard's hole cut out diameter is going to be 85 mm for each
downlight - what is the best way to make these cut outs?

Steve

I used a hole saw for a similar job 12 years ago that I got cheap, it is
89mm diameter and you are welcome to borrow it if suitable and you are
near Leeds West Yorks.

I used one of these..
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Blad.../sd1530/p90948

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
nightjar cpb@ wrote:
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
nightjar cpb@ wrote:
"steveybar" wrote in message
...
I'm installing around x10 (Aurora - 12v - fire protected) Downlights
in my Kitchen's plasterboard ceiling.

The plasterboard's hole cut out diameter is going to be 85 mm for each
downlight - what is the best way to make these cut outs?
I have a fly-cutter with a big dish under it that catches all the
rubbish. Unlike a hole saw, you can set the diameter to exactly what
you want. However, fly cutters in power tools are potentially quite
dangerous. If you are only cutting plasterboard, a hand drill will be
adequate and will give you more control over the cut.

Colin Bignell
Really, Ive done them with a 'kitchen devil' knife.

They don't have to even be neat. the fitting covers well....

There we have a basic difference in philosophjy. I don't think that
something not being visible is a reason not to do it neatly.

Agreed, but its a definite reason not to get ultra prissy about it.

Are you the sort of man who goes over the building site before the
suspended floors go in, with a black bag, picking up all the half bricks,
screws and mortar blobs, and getting the lads to sweep the soil clean and
level it with a whacker?

Only if I were the one responsible for that part of the job.

Sorry, I don't like a mess either, but the only layer that gets the
perfection treatment is decoration..and visible joinery.

It is a matter of pride in my workmanship. I would know if it had not been
done right, even if it doesn't show.

Colin Bignell

"John" wrote in message
...

"steveybar" wrote in message
...
I'm installing around x10 (Aurora - 12v - fire protected) Downlights in
my Kitchen's plasterboard ceiling.

The plasterboard's hole cut out diameter is going to be 85 mm for each
downlight - what is the best way to make these cut outs?

Steve

I used a hole saw for a similar job 12 years ago that I got cheap, it is
89mm diameter and you are welcome to borrow it if suitable and you are
near Leeds West Yorks.

HTH

John


John,
Thank you for the kind offer of loaning me your Hole Saw, now I know what I
require (thanks to you and everyone else who replied) I've asked around my
friends and come up trumps with one.

Thanks again everybody.

Best wishes

Steve

nightjar cpb@ wrote:
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
nightjar cpb@ wrote:
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
nightjar cpb@ wrote:
"steveybar" wrote in message
...
I'm installing around x10 (Aurora - 12v - fire protected) Downlights
in my Kitchen's plasterboard ceiling.

The plasterboard's hole cut out diameter is going to be 85 mm for each
downlight - what is the best way to make these cut outs?
I have a fly-cutter with a big dish under it that catches all the
rubbish. Unlike a hole saw, you can set the diameter to exactly what
you want. However, fly cutters in power tools are potentially quite
dangerous. If you are only cutting plasterboard, a hand drill will be
adequate and will give you more control over the cut.

Colin Bignell
Really, Ive done them with a 'kitchen devil' knife.

They don't have to even be neat. the fitting covers well....
There we have a basic difference in philosophjy. I don't think that
something not being visible is a reason not to do it neatly.

Agreed, but its a definite reason not to get ultra prissy about it.

Are you the sort of man who goes over the building site before the
suspended floors go in, with a black bag, picking up all the half bricks,
screws and mortar blobs, and getting the lads to sweep the soil clean and
level it with a whacker?

Only if I were the one responsible for that part of the job.

Sorry, I don't like a mess either, but the only layer that gets the
perfection treatment is decoration..and visible joinery.

It is a matter of pride in my workmanship. I would know if it had not been
done right, even if it doesn't show.


Well that is a matter of equating 'neat' with 'right' . Not being a
christian, 'cleanliness and godliness' dont feature.

A an engineer, the rightness of a structure is that it performs its
function adequately. Neatness may or may nor feature there. Only if its
likley to be actually inspected or maintained does it matter in my
book..a rats nest of cables works, but a neat array of cable looms
inspires confidence. But if you never see it, the rats nest may be just
as good. And if its CHEAPER its BETTER engineering solution.

Engineering about being the 'art of doing for sixpence, what any damn
fool can do for a quid'
;-)


Colin Bignell

In article ,
nightjar cpb@insert my surname here.me.uk wrote:
Really, Ive done them with a 'kitchen devil' knife.

They don't have to even be neat. the fitting covers well....

There we have a basic difference in philosophjy. I don't think that
something not being visible is a reason not to do it neatly.

With a proper 'keyhole' saw designed for this job - the sheds sell them
for pennies - it's an easy job to make a pretty decent hole. Assuming you
can draw a neat pencil line to follow.

I use this saw quite a bit - pretty well anywhere where you have to cut a
hole in plasterboard. And sometimes in wood.

--
*Failure is not an option. It's bundled with your software.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
....
A an engineer, the rightness of a structure is that it performs its
function adequately. Neatness may or may nor feature there. Only if its
likley to be actually inspected or maintained does it matter in my book..a
rats nest of cables works, but a neat array of cable looms inspires
confidence. But if you never see it, the rats nest may be just as good.
And if its CHEAPER its BETTER engineering solution.

I would vioew that as an accountant's solution, not an engineering one. To
my mind, an engineering solution is where you design something to do a job,
with tolerances to suit the needs of the job and make it neatly to the
specification and tolerances in the design. However, for a hole in
plasterboard, just neat is adequate for me. As I said, we have a basic
difference in philosophy.

Colin Bignell

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
nightjar cpb@insert my surname here.me.uk wrote:
Really, Ive done them with a 'kitchen devil' knife.

They don't have to even be neat. the fitting covers well....

There we have a basic difference in philosophjy. I don't think that
something not being visible is a reason not to do it neatly.

With a proper 'keyhole' saw designed for this job - the sheds sell them
for pennies - it's an easy job to make a pretty decent hole. Assuming you
can draw a neat pencil line to follow.

I wouldn't dispute that. I've even used a Swiss Army knife to make a hole in
plasterboard, but it was a close fit to the back box I needed to put in.

Colin Bignell

nightjar cpb@ wrote:
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
...
A an engineer, the rightness of a structure is that it performs its
function adequately. Neatness may or may nor feature there. Only if its
likley to be actually inspected or maintained does it matter in my book..a
rats nest of cables works, but a neat array of cable looms inspires
confidence. But if you never see it, the rats nest may be just as good.
And if its CHEAPER its BETTER engineering solution.

I would vioew that as an accountant's solution, not an engineering one. To
my mind, an engineering solution is where you design something to do a job,
with tolerances to suit the needs of the job and make it neatly to the
specification and tolerances in the design. However, for a hole in
plasterboard, just neat is adequate for me. As I said, we have a basic
difference in philosophy.

Colin Bignell


That's the trouble with you non engineers: you think its like the VW
adverts..

Engineering is design for function. The appearances only function is to
be pleasing to the purchaser or user.Why the eye don't see, the heart
don't grieve over..

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
nightjar cpb@ wrote:
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
...
A an engineer, the rightness of a structure is that it performs its
function adequately. Neatness may or may nor feature there. Only if its
likley to be actually inspected or maintained does it matter in my
book..a rats nest of cables works, but a neat array of cable looms
inspires confidence. But if you never see it, the rats nest may be just
as good. And if its CHEAPER its BETTER engineering solution.

I would vioew that as an accountant's solution, not an engineering one.
To my mind, an engineering solution is where you design something to do a
job, with tolerances to suit the needs of the job and make it neatly to
the specification and tolerances in the design. However, for a hole in
plasterboard, just neat is adequate for me. As I said, we have a basic
difference in philosophy.

Colin Bignell


That's the trouble with you non engineers: you think its like the VW
adverts..

My degree was in engineering, from Glasgow University. I owned and ran an
engineering business for more than quarter of a century, until I sold it off
a couple of years ago, that eventually occupied 7,000 square feet of factory
space and produced over 40% net profit..

Engineering is design for function. The appearances only function is to be
pleasing to the purchaser or user.Why the eye don't see, the heart don't
grieve over..

That is not how I was trained. My father used to be paid piece work and he
soon discovered that making things well in the first place meant he never
had to rectify anything, unlike most of his co-workers, who shared your
philosophy. As a result, he earned a lot more than they did.

Colin Bignell

In article ,
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Engineering is design for function. The appearances only function is to
be pleasing to the purchaser or user.Why the eye don't see, the heart
don't grieve over..

Not so at all. On many things an untidy cut would mean extra material and
therefore weight or reduced strength.

And as regards a hole in plasterboard for a downlighter, most use spring
clips to secure them which bears on the surrounding board so needs a
reasonably accurate hole otherwise will break the plasterboard when you
remove them for decorating, etc.

Plenty of other examples too - if the ends of a studs where they meet a
plate etc are poorly made you'll not see them after the plasterboard is
fitted. But could well compromise the strength.

Neat work where it doesn't show is the badge of a craftsman - if that bit
is done correctly you can bet everything else is too.

--
*I used up all my sick days so I called in dead

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.