I've acquired 4 beech-block 27mm x 606mm x 1800mm worktops, and I want
to saw them longitudinally, using a sawguide and a h/h circular saw.
As the existing blade is 'course toothed' and less than pristine after
some service in MDF and flooring board, I want to buy a good new one.

I'll also be trimming across the ends a little - although I have a
decent sliding mitre tool for that. It's important I get a fine
finish and no 'breakout', so should I be looking for the likes of a
Trend 48-tooth 'fine finish' blade, or perhaps a 30-tooth job?

One of the Trend 48-tooth blades comes only with a 30mm bore. I need
16mm. Would one of Trend's bore reducers be effective? Problems?

I also expect to need to chamfer/mitre-cut the square edges, and
expect to use my router for that. Others might suggest a block plane
with a shooting board. Preferences? Why?

bilbo*baggins wrote:
I've acquired 4 beech-block 27mm x 606mm x 1800mm worktops, and I want
to saw them longitudinally, using a sawguide and a h/h circular saw.
As the existing blade is 'course toothed' and less than pristine after
some service in MDF and flooring board, I want to buy a good new one.

Apart from SF & Axminster I've found these people very good & cheap for
blades http://www.itslondon.co.uk/

Take it you have read http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Sawboard

I'll also be trimming across the ends a little - although I have a
decent sliding mitre tool for that. It's important I get a fine
finish and no 'breakout', so should I be looking for the likes of a
Trend 48-tooth 'fine finish' blade, or perhaps a 30-tooth job?

The more teeth the finer the cut, generally speaking. A good blade can
transform a circular saw.

One of the Trend 48-tooth blades comes only with a 30mm bore. I need
16mm. Would one of Trend's bore reducers be effective? Problems?

Reducers are pretty standard and no problem at all.

I also expect to need to chamfer/mitre-cut the square edges, and
expect to use my router for that. Others might suggest a block plane
with a shooting board. Preferences? Why?

Router. Faster, better cut, more accurate.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On 29 Nov, 01:35, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:
bilbo*baggins wrote:
I've acquired 4 beech-block 27mm x 606mm x 1800mm worktops, and I want
to saw them longitudinally, using a sawguide and a h/h circular saw.
As the existing blade is 'course toothed' and less than pristine after
some service in MDF and flooring board, I want to buy a good new one.

Apart from SF & Axminster I've found these people very good & cheap for
bladeshttp://www.itslondon.co.uk/

Take it you have readhttp://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Sawboard

I'll also be trimming across the ends a little - although I have a
decent sliding mitre tool for that. *It's important I get a fine
finish and no 'breakout', so should I be looking for the likes of a
Trend 48-tooth 'fine finish' blade, or perhaps a 30-tooth job?

The more teeth the finer the cut, generally speaking. *A good blade can
transform a circular saw.



One of the Trend 48-tooth blades comes only with a 30mm bore. I need
16mm. Would one of Trend's bore reducers be effective? Problems?

Reducers are pretty standard and no problem at all.



I also expect to need to chamfer/mitre-cut the square edges, and
expect to use my router for that. Others might suggest a block plane
with a shooting board. Preferences? Why?

Router. *Faster, better cut, more accurate.

--
Dave - The Medway Handymanwww.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Thanks, Dave.

Yes, I have 'hoisted in' the sawboard idea, and I'll be making one up
over the next day or two. I've also hunted around and went over to a
Trend stockist a few miles away, and got me a 40-tooth Medium/Fine
blade he had in stock. I suspect that'll do the job, once I coat it
with furniture polish.

Now I'm wondering whether there's merit in scribing a pair of lines
with my new supersharp Japanese scribing knife, just a tad wider than
the kerf, to inhibit 'breakout' - or should I simply use masking tape?

bilbo*baggins wrote:
SNIP

Now I'm wondering whether there's merit in scribing a pair of lines
with my new supersharp Japanese scribing knife, just a tad wider than
the kerf, to inhibit 'breakout' - or should I simply use masking tape?

I think one line is the accepted wisdom, it certainly seems to work anyway.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk