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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#41
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Talk the torque.
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message ... In article , Doctor Drivel wrote: SDS is a chuck type not a drill type. Er, no. It is a drill type, which also incorporates a chuck type too, which is only specific to the drill type. I used a keyed chuck into the SDS chuck. Is Please eff off as you are a complete plantpot. ROFLMAO!!! |
#42
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Talk the torque.
On 7 Nov, 11:17, "Doctor Drivel" wrote:
SDS's on low speed are great and will drive almost anything in. Why does an SDS mechanism have anything to offer at all for rotation? SDS drills have high torque low speed. Nothing to do with mechanism. My AEG SDS has plenty of torque and a middling speed. Even then it doesn't have quite as much torque as another (older) hammer drill, or _anything_like_ the torque of my real slow-speed drill (a Wickes Kress) used for big augers and plaster mixing. The Happy Shopper SDS you're so fond of recommending have about as much torque as arm wrestling Russell Brand. |
#43
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Talk the torque.
"Andy Dingley" wrote in message ... On 7 Nov, 11:17, "Doctor Drivel" wrote: SDS's on low speed are great and will drive almost anything in. Why does an SDS mechanism have anything to offer at all for rotation? SDS drills have high torque low speed. Nothing to do with mechanism. My AEG SDS has plenty of torque and a middling speed. Even then it doesn't have quite as much torque as another (older) hammer drill, or _anything_like_ the torque of my real slow-speed drill (a Wickes Kress) used for big augers and plaster mixing. The Happy Shopper SDS you're so fond of recommending have about as much torque as arm wrestling Russell Brand. I have a Kress. The screws sailed into the wood - very powerful. The average cheaply SDS has lots of torque. (it seems off that Andy Hall is not coming in on this thread) |
#44
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Talk the torque.
Doctor Drivel wrote:
SNIP DIY or not they are superb. If your drill/driver packs up then buy one, as the price has dropped substantially. They can be used as a drill too. Using hex shaft drill bits. Are you completely mad? -- Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk |
#45
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Talk the torque.
"Andy Dingley" wrote in message ... On 7 Nov, 11:17, "Doctor Drivel" wrote: SDS's on low speed are great and will drive almost anything in. Why does an SDS mechanism have anything to offer at all for rotation? SDS drills have high torque low speed. Nothing to do with mechanism. My AEG SDS has plenty of torque and a middling speed. Even then it doesn't have quite as much torque as another (older) hammer drill, or _anything_like_ the torque of my real slow-speed drill (a Wickes Kress) used for big augers and plaster mixing. Is that the one with the 15" steel side handle? I bought one for £10 when Wickes were clearing them out. |
#46
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Talk the torque.
Alang wrote:
This is the only impact driver a DIYer should usually need. http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...erWithBits.png Unless he's rolling in money and buys stuff to use once a year for half an hour. While I would agree, that armed with a suitable drill driver you can survive without a cordless impact driver well enough for many jobs, I have never found the manual type that useful. Last time I used mine was to photograph it for the wiki, and possibly 15 years prior to that to undo a stuck screw in a gate hinge. In fact the best use I ever found for the manual driver, was when I discovered that you could stick the hex bits that came with it into the chuck of the old B&D and whiz big screws in with it! -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#47
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Talk the torque.
Doctor Drivel wrote:
http://groups.google.co.uk/group/uk....175db37f55d7ba In that link, the Chav making a typical fool of himself. I was the first too mention Impact Drivers on this group. Only about two others had heard of them and one actually used one of them. No one knew what they were thinking you smacked it with a hammer. I stand by what I said then: Typically available ones at the time tended to be heavier square drive pneumatic ones. A decent 18V drill driver will still drive a 6" screw Variations on the tool had been about for ages, and the electric cordless variety was a more recent development at the time. If you are in a workshop with compressed air available, then small pneumatic ones are cheap and can do a reasonable job. In fact I note you said: "When the price drops and the cheaper DIY makes start making them, then the price will drop". If one ignores the tautology of "When the price drops", "then the price will drop", it is interesting to note that the cheaper DIY makes have still not started making them in any noticeable quantity even three years on. DIY or not they are superb. If your drill/driver packs up then buy one, as the price has dropped substantially. They can be used as a drill too. Using hex shaft drill bits. There are also duel drill-driver/Impact Driver models. The single function drivers can be used as a drill, but they still are at best a poor substitute (no chuck, no hammer action, no torque limiter, less resolution on the speed control, poorer bit centring). Never tried one of the multi function ones. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#48
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Talk the torque.
"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message om... Doctor Drivel wrote: SNIP DIY or not they are superb. If your drill/driver packs up then buy one, as the price has dropped substantially. They can be used as a drill too. Using hex shaft drill bits. Are you completely mad? It is clear you don't know the functions of the tool. |
#49
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Talk the torque.
"John Rumm" wrote in message ... Doctor Drivel wrote: http://groups.google.co.uk/group/uk....175db37f55d7ba In that link, the Chav making a typical fool of himself. I was the first too mention Impact Drivers on this group. Only about two others had heard of them and one actually used one of them. No one knew what they were thinking you smacked it with a hammer. I stand by what I said then: Which was total balls. Typically available ones at the time tended to be heavier square drive pneumatic ones. Balls!!! The Ryobi was available by then. A decent 18V drill driver will still drive a 6" screw Balls. it is interesting to note that the cheaper DIY makes have still not started making them in any noticeable quantity even three years on. The Makita small Impact Driver? There are lots sub £100. The single function drivers can be used as a drill, but they still are at best a poor substitute (no chuck, no hammer action, no torque limiter, less resolution on the speed control, poorer bit centring). Hammer? They drill very well. |
#50
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Talk the torque.
dennis@home wrote:
"Andy Dingley" wrote in message ... On 7 Nov, 11:17, "Doctor Drivel" wrote: SDS's on low speed are great and will drive almost anything in. Why does an SDS mechanism have anything to offer at all for rotation? SDS drills have high torque low speed. Nothing to do with mechanism. My AEG SDS has plenty of torque and a middling speed. Even then it doesn't have quite as much torque as another (older) hammer drill, or _anything_like_ the torque of my real slow-speed drill (a Wickes Kress) used for big augers and plaster mixing. Is that the one with the 15" steel side handle? I bought one for £10 when Wickes were clearing them out. That was one hell of a bargain! Fantastic drill that & great for mixing as well. -- Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk |
#51
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Talk the torque.
On Fri, 7 Nov 2008 12:53:11 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote: "dennis@home" wrote in message ... "Doctor Drivel" wrote in message ... "Andy Dingley" wrote in message ... On 6 Nov, 13:37, "Doctor Drivel" wrote: SDS's on low speed are great and will drive almost anything in. Why does an SDS mechanism have anything to offer at all for rotation? SDS drills have high torque low speed. Nothing to do with mechanism. I have a high torque drill and it is not an SDS chuck and it doesn't have a hammer function. It will drill 32 mm in steel though. They are available. SDS is a chuck type not a drill type. Er, no. It is a drill type, which also incorporates a chuck type too, which is only specific to the drill type. I used a keyed chuck into the SDS chuck. Bosch do SDS jigsaws that don't drill holes, can't be fitted with a drill and can't be used as an impact driver. -- |
#52
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Talk the torque.
Dave Plowman (News) wrote in message ... they now seem to be a the latest DIY must have tool, have you bought one yet or "Nor do I feel the need for one. I've never had problems driving in any type of screw into anything. Can't see anything wrong with that statement. Can you? Depends on whether you have since realised how useful a cordless impact driver is, either large or small, and bought one. - |
#53
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Talk the torque.
In article ,
Doctor Drivel wrote: DIY or not they are superb. If your drill/driver packs up then buy one, as the price has dropped substantially. They can be used as a drill too. Using hex shaft drill bits. Are you completely mad? It is clear you don't know the functions of the tool. It's plain the only tool you actually have used is that hacksaw. And we all know what happened next. Hex drills are a waste of time. -- *If I throw a stick, will you leave? Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#54
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Talk the torque.
In article ,
Mike wrote: Er, no. It is a drill type, which also incorporates a chuck type too, which is only specific to the drill type. I used a keyed chuck into the SDS chuck. Bosch do SDS jigsaws that don't drill holes, can't be fitted with a drill and can't be used as an impact driver. Indeed - but of course dribble knows better than the owners of the name, Bosch. It originally meant Steck - Dreh - Sitz (Insert Twist Stay) -- *It's a thankless job, but I've got a lot of Karma to burn off Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#55
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Talk the torque.
The Medway Handyman wrote in message om... Doctor Drivel wrote: SNIP DIY or not they are superb. If your drill/driver packs up then buy one, as the price has dropped substantially. They can be used as a drill too. Using hex shaft drill bits. Are you completely mad? Panasonic now do a cordless drill/driver/impact drill with changeable chucks 13mm keyless chuck,1/4 hex, and 1/ 2 sg drive for sockets - |
#56
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Talk the torque.
Mark wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote in message om... Doctor Drivel wrote: SNIP DIY or not they are superb. If your drill/driver packs up then buy one, as the price has dropped substantially. They can be used as a drill too. Using hex shaft drill bits. Are you completely mad? Panasonic now do a cordless drill/driver/impact drill with changeable chucks 13mm keyless chuck,1/4 hex, and 1/ 2 sg drive for sockets Got a feeling there is a 4 function Makita as well. (i.e. combi drill + impact driver). -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#57
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Talk the torque.
Doctor Drivel wrote:
Typically available ones at the time tended to be heavier square drive pneumatic ones. Balls!!! The Ryobi was available by then. As were others, however they were relatively rare. The widely available angular impact tools at the time were the pneumatic ones. Hence my comment that "The electric cordless variety is a more recent development" It would help if you appreciated that words like "typically", or "most" or "many", or "usually" and not statements of black and white - they allow for there being exceptions to something that is in general a rule. A decent 18V drill driver will still drive a 6" screw Balls. You should try a decent one then. Mine does. I have even used it to drive a 107mm diamond core bit. The torque it develops in low gear is about the same as that from my SDS. The SDS is not as easy to use for screw driving either, since it is much too long, and the balance is in the wrong place. it is interesting to note that the cheaper DIY makes have still not started making them in any noticeable quantity even three years on. The Makita small Impact Driver? There are lots sub £100. Makita are not who I expect you were referring to as one of the "cheaper DIY makes". And you can't really consider the TD020D in the same league as the full size tools - it only develops 17Nm of torque which is significantly less than many larger drill drivers. Its main attraction is its reasonable performance for its small size and weight. Most of the ones available are still from recognisable brands, rather than £19.95 specials fresh off the boat from China. The single function drivers can be used as a drill, but they still are at best a poor substitute (no chuck, no hammer action, no torque limiter, less resolution on the speed control, poorer bit centring). Hammer? They drill very well. Into masonry? With a holesaw? The best you can say is it will drill ok in some circumstances... if you have hex shanked bits or an add on chuck. There are loads of jobs I do with my cordless drill that would be either very difficult or a right PITA to do with an impact driver. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#58
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Talk the torque.
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
SNIP If I were starting out, but with my present experience of such things, I'd buy drills in this order:- 1 Two speed reversing mains drill with a half inch chuck. 2 SDS drill with rotation stop. 3 Good quality cordless. 4 Dremel type 'hobby' drill. 4 Impact driver. Interesting. I'd go for; 1. Good quality cordless combi. 2. SDS drill with rotation stop. 3. Impact driver (small), like the TD020E. Hardly ever use a mains drill, use the SDS with a chuch adaptor. Got a Dremmel, waste of space, never use it. I actually possess 14 power drills of various types including two impact drivers. You got me beat & I thought I was a tool freak :-) 3 x SDS, 2 x 14.4v, 1 x 12v, 3 x impact driver, 1 x mains, 1 x pillar. -- Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk |
#59
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Talk the torque.
John Rumm wrote:
Mark wrote: The Medway Handyman wrote in message om... Doctor Drivel wrote: SNIP DIY or not they are superb. If your drill/driver packs up then buy one, as the price has dropped substantially. They can be used as a drill too. Using hex shaft drill bits. Are you completely mad? Panasonic now do a cordless drill/driver/impact drill with changeable chucks 13mm keyless chuck,1/4 hex, and 1/ 2 sg drive for sockets Got a feeling there is a 4 function Makita as well. (i.e. combi drill + impact driver). Indeed there is - BTP140SFE 18v Li-Ion Cordless Impact Driver "Combines all the best features of a combi drill driver and an impact drill!! Powerful, versatile four function power tool to cover a huge number of drilling & screw driving tasks: impact driver, screwdriver, power drill & percussion drill - all in one machine. Its features include a ¼" hex tool holder, variable forward & reverse control speed" http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/pr...ails/btp140sfe Yours for a mere £350. If Santa is listening....... -- Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk |
#60
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Talk the torque.
"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message m... I'd go for; 1. Good quality cordless combi. 2. SDS drill with rotation stop. 3. Impact driver (small), like the TD020E. * A 2kg SDS drill with roto stop - I have the Kress which is top quality and recommended. * A Hilti drill/driver [1] Or a Kress/Wickes high torque drill/angle drill that may eliminate the mains angle drill below. * A good impact driver (essential these days as it can also drill) * A cheap £10-15 variable speed mains drill for occasional use. * A mains angle drill. Silverline make a cheapy for occasional use, However DeWalt and Makita make good expensive versions. However the Impact Driver may eliminate the need for one of these as it is so small. That is the drilling * Probably a Bosch Fein thingy for cutting floor boards and awkward things. * Good quality circular saw - Skill make a good well price one, and Lidl sell a good Parkside one too, a low price. * If the need a jig-saw. Lidl make a top quality one for around £20, otherwise a top quality Makita. [1] The Hilti drill/drivers are superb. A mains Makita 110v SDS cannot drill 6.5mm masonry holes as fast as a Hilti 15.6v battery hammer drill. Above 6.5mm SDS is better. That is why they are the choice of real professionals. One drill driver will give most of what many journeymen will want all in one drill in his bag with no mains leads. Not cheap but the best. For men who use them all and every day and time is money. |
#61
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Talk the torque.
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message ... In article , Doctor Drivel wrote: DIY or not they are superb. If your drill/driver packs up then buy one, as the price has dropped substantially. They can be used as a drill too. Using hex shaft drill bits. Are you completely mad? It is clear you don't know the functions of the tool. It's You must eff off as you are a total plantpot. |
#62
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Talk the torque.
In article ,
John Rumm wrote: The single function drivers can be used as a drill, but they still are at best a poor substitute (no chuck, no hammer action, no torque limiter, less resolution on the speed control, poorer bit centring). Hammer? They drill very well. Into masonry? With a holesaw? The best you can say is it will drill ok in some circumstances... if you have hex shanked bits or an add on chuck. There are loads of jobs I do with my cordless drill that would be either very difficult or a right PITA to do with an impact driver. I can only come to the conclusion that dribble does little in the way of DIY or indeed any practical work given the rubbish he talks about such things. -- *Some people are only alive because it is illegal to kill. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#63
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Talk the torque.
"John Rumm" wrote in message et... Doctor Drivel wrote: Typically available ones at the time tended to be heavier square drive pneumatic ones. Balls!!! The Ryobi was available by then. As were others, however they were relatively rare. They were not. They were being pushed by Screwfix and B&Q with full displays of the ONE+ system. Read the thread. The widely available angular impact tools at the time were the pneumatic ones. Hence my comment that "The electric cordless variety is a more recent development" They have been around for a good 10 years and more, but costed a fortune, so only pros used them who needed to use them. A decent 18V drill driver will still drive a 6" screw Balls. You should try a decent one then. In hardish wood? No way. That requires an Impact Driver or high torque mains drill. The Makita small Impact Driver? There are lots sub £100. Makita are not who I expect you were referring to as one of the "cheaper DIY makes". And you can't really consider the TD020D in the same league as the full size tools It is an Impact Driver. Most of the ones available are still from recognisable brands, rather than £19.95 specials fresh off the boat from China. Look around, any around £60-70 are available. The Riyobi is £60-70, although bare and many deals of £100 with combi and Impact Drivers are around. The single function drivers can be used as a drill, but they still are at best a poor substitute (no chuck, no hammer action, no torque limiter, less resolution on the speed control, poorer bit centring). Hammer? They drill very well. Into masonry? They drill into wood superbly and I use one to drill between joists they are so short. The light is very handy. For most drilling it will work fine. There is a hex shaft small chuck available and using Bosch multi drill bits an Impact Driver will drill through walls as well. Superb for tradesmen only wanting one tool. There are loads of jobs I do with my cordless drill that would be either very difficult or a right PITA to do with an impact driver. You have not used one in earnest. I rarely use anything but the Impact Driver these days. |
#64
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Talk the torque.
In article ,
The Medway Handyman wrote: Dave Plowman (News) wrote: SNIP If I were starting out, but with my present experience of such things, I'd buy drills in this order:- 1 Two speed reversing mains drill with a half inch chuck. 2 SDS drill with rotation stop. 3 Good quality cordless. 4 Dremel type 'hobby' drill. 4 Impact driver. Interesting. I'd go for; 1. Good quality cordless combi. 2. SDS drill with rotation stop. 3. Impact driver (small), like the TD020E. Hardly ever use a mains drill, use the SDS with a chuch adaptor. Got a Dremmel, waste of space, never use it. That's fine if you have the funds when starting off - but many don't. A decent mains drill costs a lot less than a good cordless one. And assuming occasional DIY stuff the battery will likely be flat anyway when needed. As regards the Dremel type I use similar ones for hobby stuff (electronics) a great deal - and I did say it was a personal choice. I actually possess 14 power drills of various types including two impact drivers. You got me beat & I thought I was a tool freak :-) I'm older than you and never chuck stuff out. ;-) 3 x SDS, 2 x 14.4v, 1 x 12v, 3 x impact driver, 1 x mains, 1 x pillar. Ah - forgot the pillar drills. 3 x mains drills, two of which are hammer. 1 x SDS. 5 x cordless. 3 x impact - one of which needs a car 12 volt supply. 4 x hobby drills including a cordless one. 1 x PCB pillar drill. 1 x pillar drill. The total seems to have gone up. ;-) -- *It IS as bad as you think, and they ARE out to get you. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#65
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Talk the torque.
In article , Dave Plowman (News)
scribeth thus In article , Mark wrote: Dave Plowman (News) wrote in message ... they now seem to be a the latest DIY must have tool, have you bought one yet or "Nor do I feel the need for one. I've never had problems driving in any type of screw into anything. Can't see anything wrong with that statement. Can you? Depends on whether you have since realised how useful a cordless impact driver is, either large or small, and bought one. Yes they're useful but not essential in the same sort of way as a power drill is essential. If I were starting out, but with my present experience of such things, I'd buy drills in this order:- 1 Two speed reversing mains drill with a half inch chuck. 2 SDS drill with rotation stop. 3 Good quality cordless. 4 Dremel type 'hobby' drill. 4 Impact driver. I actually possess 14 power drills of various types including two impact drivers. Bloody hell!, your not going to try to take 'em with you when you go... -- Tony Sayer |
#66
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Talk the torque.
In article ,
The Medway Handyman wrote: Got a feeling there is a 4 function Makita as well. (i.e. combi drill + impact driver). Indeed there is - BTP140SFE 18v Li-Ion Cordless Impact Driver "Combines all the best features of a combi drill driver and an impact drill!! Powerful, versatile four function power tool to cover a huge number of drilling & screw driving tasks: impact driver, screwdriver, power drill & percussion drill - all in one machine. Its features include a ¼" hex tool holder, variable forward & reverse control speed" http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/pr...ails/btp140sfe Yours for a mere £350. For that price you can easily have two excellent quality drills that cover all those functions - plus the added advantage of having one for drilling and one for driving when screwing down floorboards, etc. I find any combination tool a bit of a pain - it always seems to be in the wrong state for what I want. The Fein Multimaster being a prime example. I'd like another of those to half that probability. ;-) -- *Eat well, stay fit, die anyway Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#67
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Talk the torque.
In article ,
Doctor Drivel wrote: The Hilti drill/drivers are superb. A mains Makita 110v SDS cannot drill 6.5mm masonry holes as fast as a Hilti 15.6v battery hammer drill. Above 6.5mm SDS is better. That is why they are the choice of real professionals. One drill driver will give most of what many journeymen will want all in one drill in his bag with no mains leads. Not cheap but the best. For men who use them all and every day and time is money. You mustn't believe everything they tell you. Try visiting a building site and see what is actually common. -- *There are two kinds of pedestrians... the quick and the dead. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#68
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Talk the torque.
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message ... In article , John Rumm wrote: The single function drivers can be used as a drill, but they still are at best a poor substitute (no chuck, no hammer action, no torque limiter, less resolution on the speed control, poorer bit centring). Hammer? They drill very well. Into masonry? With a holesaw? The best you can say is it will drill ok in some circumstances... if you have hex shanked bits or an add on chuck. There are loads of jobs I do with my cordless drill that would be either very difficult or a right PITA to do with an impact driver. I You must eff off as you are atotal plantpot. |
#69
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Talk the torque.
"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message om... John Rumm wrote: Mark wrote: The Medway Handyman wrote in message om... Doctor Drivel wrote: SNIP DIY or not they are superb. If your drill/driver packs up then buy one, as the price has dropped substantially. They can be used as a drill too. Using hex shaft drill bits. Are you completely mad? Panasonic now do a cordless drill/driver/impact drill with changeable chucks 13mm keyless chuck,1/4 hex, and 1/ 2 sg drive for sockets Got a feeling there is a 4 function Makita as well. (i.e. combi drill + impact driver). Indeed there is - BTP140SFE 18v Li-Ion Cordless Impact Driver "Combines all the best features of a combi drill driver and an impact drill!! Powerful, versatile four function power tool to cover a huge number of drilling & screw driving tasks: impact driver, screwdriver, power drill & percussion drill - all in one machine. Its features include a ¼" hex tool holder, variable forward & reverse control speed" http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/pr...ails/btp140sfe Yours for a mere £350. Superb for a tradesman, as less to carry. 3.0Ah Li-ion Batteries, 22 minute charger as well. The only problem is that if it fails you are screwed, so a 2 kg SDS is needed as it can do most things in clunky way. |
#70
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Talk the torque.
"Mike" wrote in message ... On Fri, 7 Nov 2008 12:53:11 -0000, "Doctor Drivel" wrote: "dennis@home" wrote in message ... "Doctor Drivel" wrote in message ... "Andy Dingley" wrote in message ... On 6 Nov, 13:37, "Doctor Drivel" wrote: SDS's on low speed are great and will drive almost anything in. Why does an SDS mechanism have anything to offer at all for rotation? SDS drills have high torque low speed. Nothing to do with mechanism. I have a high torque drill and it is not an SDS chuck and it doesn't have a hammer function. It will drill 32 mm in steel though. They are available. SDS is a chuck type not a drill type. Er, no. It is a drill type, which also incorporates a chuck type too, which is only specific to the drill type. I used a keyed chuck into the SDS chuck. Bosch do SDS jigsaws that don't drill holes, can't be fitted with a drill and can't be used as an impact driver. The key word is "drill". |
#71
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Talk the torque.
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message ... In article , Mike wrote: Er, no. It is a drill type, which also incorporates a chuck type too, which is only specific to the drill type. I used a keyed chuck into the SDS chuck. Bosch do SDS jigsaws that don't drill holes, can't be fitted with a drill and can't be used as an impact driver. Indeed Eff off you are a copmlete plantpot. |
#72
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Talk the torque.
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message ... In article , Doctor Drivel wrote: The Hilti drill/drivers are superb. A mains Makita 110v SDS cannot drill 6.5mm masonry holes as fast as a Hilti 15.6v battery hammer drill. Above 6.5mm SDS is better. That is why they are the choice of real professionals. One drill driver will give most of what many journeymen will want all in one drill in his bag with no mains leads. Not cheap but the best. For men who use them all and every day and time is money. You Eff off you are a plantpot. |
#73
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Talk the torque.
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article , The Medway Handyman wrote: Dave Plowman (News) wrote: SNIP If I were starting out, but with my present experience of such things, I'd buy drills in this order:- 1 Two speed reversing mains drill with a half inch chuck. 2 SDS drill with rotation stop. 3 Good quality cordless. 4 Dremel type 'hobby' drill. 4 Impact driver. Interesting. I'd go for; 1. Good quality cordless combi. 2. SDS drill with rotation stop. 3. Impact driver (small), like the TD020E. Hardly ever use a mains drill, use the SDS with a chuch adaptor. Got a Dremmel, waste of space, never use it. That's fine if you have the funds when starting off - but many don't. A decent mains drill costs a lot less than a good cordless one. And assuming occasional DIY stuff the battery will likely be flat anyway when needed. As regards the Dremel type I use similar ones for hobby stuff (electronics) a great deal - and I did say it was a personal choice. I'm not into electronics, possibly that's where it becomes useful. -- Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk |
#74
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Talk the torque.
"tony sayer" wrote in message ... In article , Dave Plowman (News) scribeth thus In article , Mark wrote: Dave Plowman (News) wrote in message ... they now seem to be a the latest DIY must have tool, have you bought one yet or "Nor do I feel the need for one. I've never had problems driving in any type of screw into anything. Can't see anything wrong with that statement. Can you? Depends on whether you have since realised how useful a cordless impact driver is, either large or small, and bought one. Yes they're useful but not essential in the same sort of way as a power drill is essential. If I were starting out, but with my present experience of such things, I'd buy drills in this order:- 1 Two speed reversing mains drill with a half inch chuck. 2 SDS drill with rotation stop. 3 Good quality cordless. 4 Dremel type 'hobby' drill. 4 Impact driver. I actually possess 14 power drills of various types including two impact drivers. Bloody hell!, your not going to try to take 'em with you when you go... He keeps the manual under his pillow. The drills are all brand new in teir boxes as the wardens will not let him touch electrical things. |
#75
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Talk the torque.
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article , The Medway Handyman wrote: Got a feeling there is a 4 function Makita as well. (i.e. combi drill + impact driver). Indeed there is - BTP140SFE 18v Li-Ion Cordless Impact Driver "Combines all the best features of a combi drill driver and an impact drill!! Powerful, versatile four function power tool to cover a huge number of drilling & screw driving tasks: impact driver, screwdriver, power drill & percussion drill - all in one machine. Its features include a ¼" hex tool holder, variable forward & reverse control speed" http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/pr...ails/btp140sfe Yours for a mere £350. For that price you can easily have two excellent quality drills that cover all those functions - plus the added advantage of having one for drilling and one for driving when screwing down floorboards, etc. I find any combination tool a bit of a pain - it always seems to be in the wrong state for what I want. The Fein Multimaster being a prime example. I'd like another of those to half that probability. ;-) I had been about to post simiallry - until I read yours. Now I shall go into AOL mode. Me too. That is actually the joy of the mini Mak as an extra unit alongside my good cordless. Far less ****ing about changing over. Far fewer dropped bits. -- Rod Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious onset. Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed. www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org |
#76
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Talk the torque.
"Rod" wrote in message ... That is actually the joy of the mini Mak as an extra unit alongside my good cordless. Far less ****ing about changing over. Far fewer dropped bits. The Makita BTP140SFE 18v Li-Ion Cordless Impact Driver, is easy to use. You just switch from one mode to the other on the drill and they rechage in 22 minutes. Use Bosch Multi drill bits and you will not even have to change bits going from masonry hammer to drilling in wood. I believe they are now made with hex shanks. I'll have to check. A tradesman on the road would greatly appreciate the Makita. |
#77
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Talk the torque.
In article ,
Doctor Drivel wrote: That is actually the joy of the mini Mak as an extra unit alongside my good cordless. Far less ****ing about changing over. Far fewer dropped bits. The Makita BTP140SFE 18v Li-Ion Cordless Impact Driver, is easy to use. You just switch from one mode to the other on the drill and they rechage in 22 minutes. Use Bosch Multi drill bits and you will not even have to change bits going from masonry hammer to drilling in wood. But are they any good at driving in screws, though? Now that would be a good trick. I believe they are now made with hex shanks. I'll have to check. A tradesman on the road would greatly appreciate the Makita. Just love the way everything you like is 'great for tradesmen'. But I'll take the word of a real one over yours any day. -- *I'm not being rude. You're just insignificant Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#78
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Talk the torque.
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message ... In article , Doctor Drivel wrote: That is actually the joy of the mini Mak as an extra unit alongside my good cordless. Far less ****ing about changing over. Far fewer dropped bits. The Makita BTP140SFE 18v Li-Ion Cordless Impact Driver, is easy to use. You just switch from one mode to the other on the drill and they rechage in 22 minutes. Use Bosch Multi drill bits and you will not even have to change bits going from masonry hammer to drilling in wood. But Please eff off you are a plantpot. |
#79
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Talk the torque.
Dave Plowman (News) wrote in message ... Depends on whether you have since realised how useful a cordless impact driver is, either large or small, and bought one. Yes they're useful but not essential in the same sort of way as a power drill is essential. If I were starting out, but with my present experience of such things, I'd buy drills in this order:- 1 Two speed reversing mains drill with a half inch chuck. 2 SDS drill with rotation stop. 3 Good quality cordless. 4 Dremel type 'hobby' drill. 4 Impact driver. Yes that's a reasonable choice for the first three, if I had to start again from scratch I would then go for 4. Impact drivers x3 5. angle grinder funny that's the number of them that I now have 6. Dremel type 'hobby' drill/grinder it really depends what you get upto I find I use the cordless impact driver lots for removing stubborn screws, small nuts/bolts. which was the original use for the mechanical impact driver, which I would still not be without. 20. Air wrench for all the larger nuts/bolts that 4 can't handle. 100. Oxyacetylene cutting torch, when all else fails - |
#80
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Talk the torque.
The Medway Handyman wrote in message om... John Rumm wrote: Mark wrote: Got a feeling there is a 4 function Makita as well. (i.e. combi drill + impact driver). Indeed there is - BTP140SFE 18v Li-Ion Cordless Impact Driver http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/pr...ails/btp140sfe Yours for a mere £00. (its only a trifling amount really dear ) Oh OH that's tempting My brother bought the Panasonic at the beginning of the year in the US, its good but quite heavy and bulky. The makita looks no bigger then my impact driver, which I value it's size and weight but have always wished you could turn off impact and fit a chuck. - |
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