Hi folks,

My Baxi Solo 2 (non-condensing, automatic ignition) boiler recently
stopped working. The fan runs, there is a quiet repeating clicking
noise, but it does not light.

I investigated myself and observed that the repeated clicking is the
sparking of the pilot light ignition spark gap. The spark is visible,
but the pilot is not lighting. Occasionally it lights just a little
bit then goes out instantly, as if there is a tiny amount of gas
coming through.

At this point, it seemed to me that the fault must either be with the
PCB (not activating the pilot gas valve) or the gas valve itself (not
opening).

The gas valve (Honeywell VR4601T A1046) has a pair of terminals
towards one end, and a group of three terminals at the other end (*).
I guessed from the layout (but it's only a guess) that the pair are
the terminals for the pilot valve solenoid. I found 240V across these
when the boiler was trying to light. From this I concluded that it is
the gas valve, and not the PCB, that is faulty.

To accelerate the repair process and avoid two call-outs, I ordered a
replacement gas valve and arranged for a CORGI-registered engineer to
visit. I hoped he would agree with my diagnosis and would be able to
replace the valve using my part.

Unfortunately I was not in when he called. He bumbled around a bit,
spent some time on the phone to Baxi technical support, and apparently
decided it was the PCB, not the gas valve. I don't have much faith in
his abilities as he apparently said he couldn't see any spark (which
is definitely visible through the observation port) and thought the
clicking was the valve (which I'm fairly sure it isn't). On the other
hand, he is the boiler engineer and he did check various terminals etc
while on the phone to Baxi.

My question: does my amateur diagnosis seem sound? Or should I trust
him? As things stand, I will have to pay for a PCB and two visits if
he is right (I can return the valve I bought), or a PCB, two visits
and a gas valve if I am right. Alternatively, if I was sure enough
that the fault is indeed with the gas valve, I could cut my losses and
get a different engineer out who might agree that it's the gas valve
and just replace that.

Opinions very welcome!

Cheers,

Seb

(*) picture at http://www.heating-parts.co.uk/media/stock/00000555.JPG

In article
,
Seb wrote:
My Baxi Solo 2 (non-condensing, automatic ignition) boiler recently
stopped working. The fan runs, there is a quiet repeating clicking
noise, but it does not light.

I investigated myself and observed that the repeated clicking is the
sparking of the pilot light ignition spark gap. The spark is visible,
but the pilot is not lighting. Occasionally it lights just a little
bit then goes out instantly, as if there is a tiny amount of gas
coming through.

At this point, it seemed to me that the fault must either be with the
PCB (not activating the pilot gas valve) or the gas valve itself (not
opening).

Not a boiler expert, but on my last boiler the pilot jet needed occasional
cleaning. If not it didn't produce enough heat to operate the
thermocouple. In your case if blocked it wouldn't light. If it's easy to
remove have a look under a magnifying glass - it will be obvious if
there's crud there.

--
*Don't squat with your spurs on *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:


Not a boiler expert, but on my last boiler the pilot jet needed
occasional cleaning. If not it didn't produce enough heat to operate
the thermocouple. In your case if blocked it wouldn't light. If it's
easy to remove have a look under a magnifying glass - it will be
obvious if there's crud there.


Maybe, but it's not *that* sort of pilot, and there's no thermocouple. The
pilot isn't on permanently, but only lights - by spark ignition - when the
boiler needs to fire. The PCB detects that the pilot has lit (by means of
flame ionisation or some other magic which I don't fully understand) and
turns on the main gas valve.

If the pilot isn't lighting, it could be for a variety of reasons:
* the jet itself could be partially blocked (the cheapest thing to check)
* the PCB could be failing to tell the gas valve to feed the pilot
* the gas valve could be failing to respond to the command from the PCB
* there could be a problem with the spark ignition

[I expect Geoff will be along soon with a technical explanation].

I've got an older (MkI) Solo [different electronics but the mechanical bits
are similar] which refuses to light if the two big screws which hold the
outer casing on are done up too tightly. I can only assume that
over-tightening them distorts something enough to interfere with the spark
gap. It sparks away like mad - mainly *outside* of the pilot chamber - but
doesn't light. Slacken the screws a bit and away it goes!
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

"Seb" wrote in message
...
Hi folks,

My Baxi Solo 2 (non-condensing, automatic ignition) boiler recently
stopped working. The fan runs, there is a quiet repeating clicking
noise, but it does not light.

I investigated myself and observed that the repeated clicking is the
sparking of the pilot light ignition spark gap. The spark is visible,
but the pilot is not lighting. Occasionally it lights just a little
bit then goes out instantly, as if there is a tiny amount of gas
coming through.

At this point, it seemed to me that the fault must either be with the
PCB (not activating the pilot gas valve) or the gas valve itself (not
opening).

The gas valve (Honeywell VR4601T A1046) has a pair of terminals
towards one end, and a group of three terminals at the other end (*).
I guessed from the layout (but it's only a guess) that the pair are
the terminals for the pilot valve solenoid. I found 240V across these
when the boiler was trying to light. From this I concluded that it is
the gas valve, and not the PCB, that is faulty.

To accelerate the repair process and avoid two call-outs, I ordered a
replacement gas valve and arranged for a CORGI-registered engineer to
visit. I hoped he would agree with my diagnosis and would be able to
replace the valve using my part.

Unfortunately I was not in when he called. He bumbled around a bit,
spent some time on the phone to Baxi technical support, and apparently
decided it was the PCB, not the gas valve. I don't have much faith in
his abilities as he apparently said he couldn't see any spark (which
is definitely visible through the observation port) and thought the
clicking was the valve (which I'm fairly sure it isn't). On the other
hand, he is the boiler engineer and he did check various terminals etc
while on the phone to Baxi.

My question: does my amateur diagnosis seem sound? Or should I trust
him? As things stand, I will have to pay for a PCB and two visits if
he is right (I can return the valve I bought), or a PCB, two visits
and a gas valve if I am right. Alternatively, if I was sure enough
that the fault is indeed with the gas valve, I could cut my losses and
get a different engineer out who might agree that it's the gas valve
and just replace that.

Opinions very welcome!

You have the valve so fit it.
If it works cancel the "engineer".
If it doesn't take it out and take it back.

Seb wrote:

The gas valve (Honeywell VR4601T A1046) has a pair of terminals
towards one end, and a group of three terminals at the other end (*).
I guessed from the layout (but it's only a guess) that the pair are
the terminals for the pilot valve solenoid. I found 240V across these
when the boiler was trying to light. From this I concluded that it is
the gas valve, and not the PCB, that is faulty.

If I remember correctly from my Baxi Eco 80 (long gone now thank God, a
beautiful Vaillant EcoTec Pro now doing the duties) you can test the gas
valve by putting a manometer on the test point and watching the gas
pressure rise as it opens. You can either make a manometer, or BES have
them for a few pounds.

In message , Roger Mills
writes
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:


Not a boiler expert, but on my last boiler the pilot jet needed
occasional cleaning. If not it didn't produce enough heat to operate
the thermocouple. In your case if blocked it wouldn't light. If it's
easy to remove have a look under a magnifying glass - it will be
obvious if there's crud there.


Maybe, but it's not *that* sort of pilot, and there's no thermocouple. The
pilot isn't on permanently, but only lights - by spark ignition - when the
boiler needs to fire. The PCB detects that the pilot has lit (by means of
flame ionisation or some other magic which I don't fully understand) and
turns on the main gas valve.

If the pilot isn't lighting, it could be for a variety of reasons:
* the jet itself could be partially blocked (the cheapest thing to check)
* the PCB could be failing to tell the gas valve to feed the pilot
* the gas valve could be failing to respond to the command from the PCB
* there could be a problem with the spark ignition

[I expect Geoff will be along soon with a technical explanation].

For the last time for 3 weeks ...

The Solo2 has electronic flame sensing - no Thermocouple

First question - has someone accidentally turned the main gas tap off by
the meter ?, do you have a gas cooker, is it working ?

The problem sounds like a lack of gas if it's just coming on a little ,
the gas valve solenoid is 240v and so, if there were not sufficient
volts getting there, something would be seriously over heating. The
valve seat could be sticking, lack of gas to the valve or a blockage at
the jet

It is ososimple to determine whether it's the pcb or valve, check
whether you have mains at the pilot valve solenoid when the spark is
clicking

That's it really

EK004 calls, and I haven't started packing

so

Salamat tinggal, untuk tiga minggu



--
geoff

In article ,
Roger Mills wrote:
Not a boiler expert, but on my last boiler the pilot jet needed
occasional cleaning. If not it didn't produce enough heat to operate
the thermocouple. In your case if blocked it wouldn't light. If it's
easy to remove have a look under a magnifying glass - it will be
obvious if there's crud there.


Maybe, but it's not *that* sort of pilot, and there's no thermocouple.
The pilot isn't on permanently, but only lights - by spark ignition -
when the boiler needs to fire. The PCB detects that the pilot has lit
(by means of flame ionisation or some other magic which I don't fully
understand) and turns on the main gas valve.

If the pilot isn't lighting, it could be for a variety of reasons:
* the jet itself could be partially blocked (the cheapest thing to check)

Err, isn't that what I said?

--
*A backward poet writes inverse.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Sep 25, 9:46*pm, geoff wrote:
In message , Roger Mills
writes



In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Dave Plowman (News) *wrote:

Not a boiler expert, but on my last boiler the pilot jet needed
occasional cleaning. If not it didn't produce enough heat to operate
the thermocouple. In your case if blocked it wouldn't light. If it's
easy to remove have a look under a magnifying glass - it will be
obvious if there's crud there.

Maybe, but it's not *that* sort of pilot, and there's no thermocouple. The
pilot isn't on permanently, but only lights - by spark ignition - when the
boiler needs to fire. The PCB detects that the pilot has lit (by means of
flame ionisation or some other magic which I don't fully understand) and
turns on the main gas valve.

If the pilot isn't lighting, it could be for a variety of reasons:
* the jet itself could be partially blocked (the cheapest thing to check)
* the PCB could be failing to tell the gas valve to feed the pilot
* the gas valve could be failing to respond to the command from the PCB
* there could be a problem with the spark ignition

[I expect Geoff will be along soon with a technical explanation].

For the last time for 3 weeks ...

The Solo2 has electronic flame sensing *- no Thermocouple

First question - has someone accidentally turned the main gas tap off by
the meter ?, do you have a gas cooker, is it working ?

The problem sounds like a lack of gas if it's just coming on a little ,
the gas valve solenoid is 240v and so, if there were not sufficient
volts getting there, something would be seriously over heating. The
valve seat could be sticking, lack of gas to the valve or a blockage at
the jet

It is ososimple to determine whether it's the pcb or valve, check
whether you have mains at the pilot valve solenoid when the spark is
clicking

That's it really

EK004 calls, and I haven't started packing

so

Salamat tinggal, untuk tiga minggu

--
geoff


Thanks Geoff, and everyone else who has responded. There *is* 240V
across the pilot valve solenoid when the spark is firing. I can also
hear and feel the solenoid clunking when I turn the boiler on or off -
so it is at least trying to do something. Yes, the gas supply is
turned on (cooker works).

So it seems the conclusion is gas valve or blocked jet. I can see the
pinhole end of the pilot jet inside the chamber. Looks OK to the naked
eye but I can't get up close, and removing the injector looks tricky.
Guess I could try cleaning it in situ with compressed air or an
extremely fine wire (but what if it broke off in the jet?!). How would
a professional clean/unblock it?

Either way, seems like a waste of money for the engineer to fit a new
PCB. Guess I'll try and get a different engineer to come and fit my
gas valve if I don't have any luck cleaning the jet.

thanks again,
Seb

On Sep 25, 9:27*pm, Cod Roe wrote:
Seb wrote:
The gas valve (Honeywell VR4601T A1046) has a pair of terminals
towards one end, and a group of three terminals at the other end (*).
I guessed from the layout (but it's only a guess) that the pair are
the terminals for the pilot valve solenoid. I found 240V across these
when the boiler was trying to light. From this I concluded that it is
the gas valve, and not the PCB, that is faulty.

If I remember correctly from my Baxi Eco 80 (long gone now thank God, a
beautiful Vaillant EcoTec Pro now doing the duties) you can test the gas
valve by putting a manometer on the test point and watching the gas
pressure rise as it opens. *You can either make a manometer, or BES have
them for a few pounds.

It does have a test point, but I think it's on the main burner gas
outlet, not the pilot outlet, so is no help.

Seb

On Sep 25, 6:50*pm, "dennis@home"
wrote:
"Seb" wrote in message

...



Hi folks,

My Baxi Solo 2 (non-condensing, automatic ignition) boiler recently
stopped working. The fan runs, there is a quiet repeating clicking
noise, but it does not light.

I investigated myself and observed that the repeated clicking is the
sparking of the pilot light ignition spark gap. The spark is visible,
but the pilot is not lighting. Occasionally it lights just a little
bit then goes out instantly, as if there is a tiny amount of gas
coming through.

At this point, it seemed to me that the fault must either be with the
PCB (not activating the pilot gas valve) or the gas valve itself (not
opening).

The gas valve (Honeywell VR4601T A1046) has a pair of terminals
towards one end, and a group of three terminals at the other end (*).
I guessed from the layout (but it's only a guess) that the pair are
the terminals for the pilot valve solenoid. I found 240V across these
when the boiler was trying to light. From this I concluded that it is
the gas valve, and not the PCB, that is faulty.

To accelerate the repair process and avoid two call-outs, I ordered a
replacement gas valve and arranged for a CORGI-registered engineer to
visit. I hoped he would agree with my diagnosis and would be able to
replace the valve using my part.

Unfortunately I was not in when he called. He bumbled around a bit,
spent some time on the phone to Baxi technical support, and apparently
decided it was the PCB, not the gas valve. I don't have much faith in
his abilities as he apparently said he couldn't see any spark (which
is definitely visible through the observation port) and thought the
clicking was the valve (which I'm fairly sure it isn't). On the other
hand, he is the boiler engineer and he did check various terminals etc
while on the phone to Baxi.

My question: does my amateur diagnosis seem sound? Or should I trust
him? As things stand, I will have to pay for a PCB and two visits if
he is right (I can return the valve I bought), or a PCB, two visits
and a gas valve if I am right. Alternatively, if I was sure enough
that the fault is indeed with the gas valve, I could cut my losses and
get a different engineer out who might agree that it's the gas valve
and just replace that.

Opinions very welcome!

You have the valve so fit it.
If it works cancel the "engineer".
If it doesn't take it out and take it back.

Even if I took the plunge and fitted it myself, it has pressure
adjustments on it which I wouldn't know how to set.

Seb

"Seb" wrote in message
...
Hi folks,

My Baxi Solo 2 (non-condensing, automatic ignition) boiler recently
stopped working. The fan runs, there is a quiet repeating clicking
noise, but it does not light.

I investigated myself and observed that the repeated clicking is the
sparking of the pilot light ignition spark gap. The spark is visible,
but the pilot is not lighting. Occasionally it lights just a little
bit then goes out instantly, as if there is a tiny amount of gas
coming through.

At this point, it seemed to me that the fault must either be with the
PCB (not activating the pilot gas valve) or the gas valve itself (not
opening).

The gas valve (Honeywell VR4601T A1046) has a pair of terminals
towards one end, and a group of three terminals at the other end (*).
I guessed from the layout (but it's only a guess) that the pair are
the terminals for the pilot valve solenoid. I found 240V across these
when the boiler was trying to light. From this I concluded that it is
the gas valve, and not the PCB, that is faulty.

To accelerate the repair process and avoid two call-outs, I ordered a
replacement gas valve and arranged for a CORGI-registered engineer to
visit. I hoped he would agree with my diagnosis and would be able to
replace the valve using my part.

Unfortunately I was not in when he called. He bumbled around a bit,
spent some time on the phone to Baxi technical support, and apparently
decided it was the PCB, not the gas valve. I don't have much faith in
his abilities as he apparently said he couldn't see any spark (which
is definitely visible through the observation port) and thought the
clicking was the valve (which I'm fairly sure it isn't). On the other
hand, he is the boiler engineer and he did check various terminals etc
while on the phone to Baxi.

My question: does my amateur diagnosis seem sound? Or should I trust
him? As things stand, I will have to pay for a PCB and two visits if
he is right (I can return the valve I bought), or a PCB, two visits
and a gas valve if I am right. Alternatively, if I was sure enough
that the fault is indeed with the gas valve, I could cut my losses and
get a different engineer out who might agree that it's the gas valve
and just replace that.

Opinions very welcome!

Cheers,

Seb

(*) picture at http://www.heating-parts.co.uk/media/stock/00000555.JPG

Has the pilot injector been inspected for blockage or partial blockage.

In message , "dennis@home"
writes


"Seb" wrote in message
...
Hi folks,

My Baxi Solo 2 (non-condensing, automatic ignition) boiler recently
stopped working. The fan runs, there is a quiet repeating clicking
noise, but it does not light.

I investigated myself and observed that the repeated clicking is the
sparking of the pilot light ignition spark gap. The spark is visible,
but the pilot is not lighting. Occasionally it lights just a little
bit then goes out instantly, as if there is a tiny amount of gas
coming through.

At this point, it seemed to me that the fault must either be with the
PCB (not activating the pilot gas valve) or the gas valve itself (not
opening).

The gas valve (Honeywell VR4601T A1046) has a pair of terminals
towards one end, and a group of three terminals at the other end (*).
I guessed from the layout (but it's only a guess) that the pair are
the terminals for the pilot valve solenoid. I found 240V across these
when the boiler was trying to light. From this I concluded that it is
the gas valve, and not the PCB, that is faulty.

To accelerate the repair process and avoid two call-outs, I ordered a
replacement gas valve and arranged for a CORGI-registered engineer to
visit. I hoped he would agree with my diagnosis and would be able to
replace the valve using my part.

Unfortunately I was not in when he called. He bumbled around a bit,
spent some time on the phone to Baxi technical support, and apparently
decided it was the PCB, not the gas valve. I don't have much faith in
his abilities as he apparently said he couldn't see any spark (which
is definitely visible through the observation port) and thought the
clicking was the valve (which I'm fairly sure it isn't). On the other
hand, he is the boiler engineer and he did check various terminals etc
while on the phone to Baxi.

My question: does my amateur diagnosis seem sound? Or should I trust
him? As things stand, I will have to pay for a PCB and two visits if
he is right (I can return the valve I bought), or a PCB, two visits
and a gas valve if I am right. Alternatively, if I was sure enough
that the fault is indeed with the gas valve, I could cut my losses and
get a different engineer out who might agree that it's the gas valve
and just replace that.

Opinions very welcome!

You have the valve so fit it.
If it works cancel the "engineer".
If it doesn't take it out and take it back.

Final words of wisdom

Dennis do you REALLY think that a central heating merchant is going to
take a gas valve back that has been used ?

Would you accept a gas valve from a CH merchant that had been "preloved"

You thick, thick ****

--
geoff

"Seb" wrote in message
...
On Sep 25, 6:50 pm, "dennis@home"
wrote:
"Seb" wrote in message

...



Hi folks,

My Baxi Solo 2 (non-condensing, automatic ignition) boiler recently
stopped working. The fan runs, there is a quiet repeating clicking
noise, but it does not light.

I investigated myself and observed that the repeated clicking is the
sparking of the pilot light ignition spark gap. The spark is visible,
but the pilot is not lighting. Occasionally it lights just a little
bit then goes out instantly, as if there is a tiny amount of gas
coming through.

At this point, it seemed to me that the fault must either be with the
PCB (not activating the pilot gas valve) or the gas valve itself (not
opening).

The gas valve (Honeywell VR4601T A1046) has a pair of terminals
towards one end, and a group of three terminals at the other end (*).
I guessed from the layout (but it's only a guess) that the pair are
the terminals for the pilot valve solenoid. I found 240V across these
when the boiler was trying to light. From this I concluded that it is
the gas valve, and not the PCB, that is faulty.

To accelerate the repair process and avoid two call-outs, I ordered a
replacement gas valve and arranged for a CORGI-registered engineer to
visit. I hoped he would agree with my diagnosis and would be able to
replace the valve using my part.

Unfortunately I was not in when he called. He bumbled around a bit,
spent some time on the phone to Baxi technical support, and apparently
decided it was the PCB, not the gas valve. I don't have much faith in
his abilities as he apparently said he couldn't see any spark (which
is definitely visible through the observation port) and thought the
clicking was the valve (which I'm fairly sure it isn't). On the other
hand, he is the boiler engineer and he did check various terminals etc
while on the phone to Baxi.

My question: does my amateur diagnosis seem sound? Or should I trust
him? As things stand, I will have to pay for a PCB and two visits if
he is right (I can return the valve I bought), or a PCB, two visits
and a gas valve if I am right. Alternatively, if I was sure enough
that the fault is indeed with the gas valve, I could cut my losses and
get a different engineer out who might agree that it's the gas valve
and just replace that.

Opinions very welcome!

You have the valve so fit it.
If it works cancel the "engineer".
If it doesn't take it out and take it back.

Even if I took the plunge and fitted it myself, it has pressure
adjustments on it which I wouldn't know how to set.


15.8 of
http://www.baxi.co.uk/docs/Baxi_Solo...structions.pdf
implies the valve is not adjustable.

However it does talk about doing a CO check, presumably incase they have
screwed up the replacement valve.


Seb

"dennis@home" wrote in message
...

http://www.baxi.co.uk/docs/Baxi_Solo...structions.pdf

page 52 has a flow chart and tells you how to check stuff to do with the gas
valve.

"geoff" wrote in message
...


Would you accept a gas valve from a CH merchant that had been "preloved"

Do you think they can tell?


You thick, thick ****

You prove how much of an arsehole you are yet again.
You are pathetic.

In message , "dennis@home"
writes


"geoff" wrote in message
...


Would you accept a gas valve from a CH merchant that had been "preloved"

Do you think they can tell?

absolutely



You thick, thick ****

You prove how much of an arsehole you are yet again.
You are pathetic.


ha ha


--
geoff

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article ,
Roger Mills wrote:
Not a boiler expert, but on my last boiler the pilot jet needed
occasional cleaning. If not it didn't produce enough heat to operate
the thermocouple. In your case if blocked it wouldn't light. If it's
easy to remove have a look under a magnifying glass - it will be
obvious if there's crud there.


Maybe, but it's not *that* sort of pilot, and there's no
thermocouple. The pilot isn't on permanently, but only lights - by
spark ignition - when the boiler needs to fire. The PCB detects that
the pilot has lit (by means of flame ionisation or some other magic
which I don't fully understand) and turns on the main gas valve.

If the pilot isn't lighting, it could be for a variety of reasons:
* the jet itself could be partially blocked (the cheapest thing to
check)

Err, isn't that what I said?

Yes, indeed. And I didn't disagree - but simply went on to amplify, and
clarify how this type of pilot works.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

On Sep 25, 11:12*pm, "dennis@home"
wrote:
"dennis@home" wrote in message

...

http://www.baxi.co.uk/docs/Baxi_Solo...structions.pdf

page 52 has a flow chart and tells you how to check stuff to do with the gas
valve.

True, but these are not the instructions for my boiler. I have a Solo
2, not Solo HE.

Seb

"Seb" wrote in message
...


True, but these are not the instructions for my boiler. I have a Solo
2, not Solo HE.

I bet the gas valve fault finding is the same.

Maybe they have the solo 2 on there too?

On 26 Sep, 10:29, "dennis@home" wrote:
"Seb" wrote in message

...

True, but these are not the instructions for my boiler. I have a Solo
2, not Solo HE.

I bet the gas valve fault finding is the same.

Maybe they have the solo 2 on there too?

Similar, yes. I have just found the Solo 2 installation manual via the
interpart (Baxi's parts wing) website.

My conclusion is unchanged after consulting the fault-finding chart:
faulty gas valve or blocked pilot injector. Am getting a different
engineer to investigate next week since I don't really want to get
into dismantling gas seals myself.

Seb

In message , "dennis@home"
writes


"Seb" wrote in message
...


True, but these are not the instructions for my boiler. I have a Solo
2, not Solo HE.

I bet the gas valve fault finding is the same.

Maybe they have the solo 2 on there too?

Solo 2 and Solo HE are not the same (gas valve wise)

If you don't know, STFU


--
geoff

"geoff" wrote in message
...
In message , "dennis@home"
writes


"Seb" wrote in message
...


True, but these are not the instructions for my boiler. I have a Solo
2, not Solo HE.

I bet the gas valve fault finding is the same.

Maybe they have the solo 2 on there too?

Solo 2 and Solo HE are not the same (gas valve wise)

If you don't know, STFU

STFU.
Why are you answering old threads without any useful contribution?
TMH not playing with you?

In message , "dennis@home"
writes


"geoff" wrote in message
...
In message , "dennis@home"
writes


"Seb" wrote in message

.


True, but these are not the instructions for my boiler. I have a Solo
2, not Solo HE.

I bet the gas valve fault finding is the same.

Maybe they have the solo 2 on there too?

Solo 2 and Solo HE are not the same (gas valve wise)

If you don't know, STFU

STFU.
Why are you answering old threads without any useful contribution?

because I've only just returned from Indonesia - the usefulness is to
tell you that if you don't know, with boilers, don't give erroneous
answers, you're wrong, and it can be dangerous


--
geoff

"geoff" wrote in message
...
In message , "dennis@home"
writes


"geoff" wrote in message
...
In message , "dennis@home"
writes


"Seb" wrote in message

.


True, but these are not the instructions for my boiler. I have a Solo
2, not Solo HE.

I bet the gas valve fault finding is the same.

Maybe they have the solo 2 on there too?

Solo 2 and Solo HE are not the same (gas valve wise)

If you don't know, STFU

STFU.
Why are you answering old threads without any useful contribution?

because I've only just returned from Indonesia - the usefulness is to tell
you that if you don't know, with boilers, don't give erroneous answers,
you're wrong, and it can be dangerous

Diagnosing a gas valve?
You have to be kidding.
There is no need to touch the gas either.


--
geoff

In message , "dennis@home"
writes


"geoff" wrote in message
...
In message , "dennis@home"
writes


"geoff" wrote in message
...
In message , "dennis@home"
writes


"Seb" wrote in message

.


True, but these are not the instructions for my boiler. I have a Solo
2, not Solo HE.

I bet the gas valve fault finding is the same.

Maybe they have the solo 2 on there too?

Solo 2 and Solo HE are not the same (gas valve wise)

If you don't know, STFU

STFU.
Why are you answering old threads without any useful contribution?

because I've only just returned from Indonesia - the usefulness is to
tell you that if you don't know, with boilers, don't give erroneous
answers, you're wrong, and it can be dangerous

Diagnosing a gas valve?
You have to be kidding.

Solo 2 uses pilot and main 240 v solenoids

HE uses modulating 24v GV

The information in the Solo2 is incorrect for the HE

There is no need to touch the gas either.


-- geoff


--
geoff

In message , geoff
writes
In message , "dennis@home"
writes


"geoff" wrote in message
...
In message , "dennis@home"
writes


"geoff" wrote in message
...
In message , "dennis@home"
writes


"Seb" wrote in message

.


True, but these are not the instructions for my boiler. I have a Solo
2, not Solo HE.

I bet the gas valve fault finding is the same.

Maybe they have the solo 2 on there too?

Solo 2 and Solo HE are not the same (gas valve wise)

If you don't know, STFU

STFU.
Why are you answering old threads without any useful contribution?

because I've only just returned from Indonesia - the usefulness is
to tell you that if you don't know, with boilers, don't give
erroneous answers, you're wrong, and it can be dangerous

Diagnosing a gas valve?
You have to be kidding.

Solo 2 uses pilot and main 240 v solenoids

HE uses modulating 24v GV

The information in the Solo2 is incorrect for the HE

So no intelligent response as to how someone with limited knowledge /
experience / diagnostic ability is going to be able to check out a 24v
dc valve given only a 240v AC example then ...

thought not

--
geoff

"geoff" wrote in message
...
In message , geoff
writes
In message , "dennis@home"
writes


"geoff" wrote in message
...
In message , "dennis@home"
writes


"geoff" wrote in message
...
In message , "dennis@home"
writes


"Seb" wrote in message

.


True, but these are not the instructions for my boiler. I have a
Solo
2, not Solo HE.

I bet the gas valve fault finding is the same.

Maybe they have the solo 2 on there too?

Solo 2 and Solo HE are not the same (gas valve wise)

If you don't know, STFU

STFU.
Why are you answering old threads without any useful contribution?

because I've only just returned from Indonesia - the usefulness is to
tell you that if you don't know, with boilers, don't give erroneous
answers, you're wrong, and it can be dangerous

Diagnosing a gas valve?
You have to be kidding.

Solo 2 uses pilot and main 240 v solenoids

HE uses modulating 24v GV

The information in the Solo2 is incorrect for the HE

So no intelligent response as to how someone with limited knowledge /
experience / diagnostic ability is going to be able to check out a 24v dc
valve given only a 240v AC example then ...

thought not

The same way, you measure the voltages.
If you bothered to read my post you will notice I said the procedure was
probably the same not the voltages.

So why don't you go and bother TMH like you normally do?

You may as well because I am bored with you.

--
geoff

In message , "dennis@home"
writes
True, but these are not the instructions for my boiler. I have
Solo
2, not Solo HE.

I bet the gas valve fault finding is the same.

Maybe they have the solo 2 on there too?

Solo 2 and Solo HE are not the same (gas valve wise)

If you don't know, STFU

STFU.
Why are you answering old threads without any useful contribution?

because I've only just returned from Indonesia - the usefulness is
to tell you that if you don't know, with boilers, don't give
erroneous answers, you're wrong, and it can be dangerous

Diagnosing a gas valve?
You have to be kidding.

Solo 2 uses pilot and main 240 v solenoids

HE uses modulating 24v GV

The information in the Solo2 is incorrect for the HE

So no intelligent response as to how someone with limited knowledge /
experience / diagnostic ability is going to be able to check out a 24v
dc valve given only a 240v AC example then ...

thought not

The same way, you measure the voltages.
If you bothered to read my post you will notice I said the procedure
was probably the same not the voltages.

So why don't you go and bother TMH like you normally do?

You may as well because I am bored with you.

and the OP would be able to deduce from the solo 2 manual that the
modureg is 24v ?

If he had more of a clue, he wouldn't have had to ask here, would he?

So, like I said , if you don't know - STFU dickhead

--
geoff