Wife has decided to change 8 sets of door handles and guess what? All
the securing screws are not at the same pitch as the ones we have now :-(

What I propose to do is buy some doweling and a spade drill slightly
smaller than the dowel. If the spade drill is making too large a
diameter hole, I'll grind the side edge until it makes a tight fit for
the dowel and then glue the dowel in to provide a blank location for the
door handle attachment screws.

Can anyone see a problem with this, apart from the fact that the screws
will be going down the grain, instead of across it.

Dave

Dave wrote:
Wife has decided to change 8 sets of door handles and guess what? All
the securing screws are not at the same pitch as the ones we have now :-(

What I propose to do is buy some doweling and a spade drill slightly
smaller than the dowel. If the spade drill is making too large a
diameter hole, I'll grind the side edge until it makes a tight fit for
the dowel and then glue the dowel in to provide a blank location for the
door handle attachment screws.

Can anyone see a problem with this, apart from the fact that the screws
will be going down the grain, instead of across it.

Dave

I would not choose a spade bit. Rather just an ordinary or lip & spur
wood drill.

But it might just be easier to shove some matchsticks, preferably coated
in decent PVA, into the existing holes. If needed, tap in with a hammer.
Let set, use a chisel to remove any excess. Fit new handles.

--
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org

On Mon, 22 Sep 2008 21:57:26 +0100, Dave
wrote:

Wife has decided to change 8 sets of door handles and guess what? All
the securing screws are not at the same pitch as the ones we have now :-(

What I propose to do is buy some doweling and a spade drill slightly
smaller than the dowel. If the spade drill is making too large a
diameter hole, I'll grind the side edge until it makes a tight fit for
the dowel and then glue the dowel in to provide a blank location for the
door handle attachment screws.

Can anyone see a problem with this, apart from the fact that the screws
will be going down the grain, instead of across it.

Dave

Seems like a Sledgehammer To Crack A Nut solution. If you must do it
that way ( and I cannot for the life of me see the need) then use an
ordinary drill. Better just to poke a slither of wood in to the
existing hole to take up some space ..a matchstick is the time
honoured way .

Rod wrote:

Dave wrote:

Wife has decided to change 8 sets of door handles and guess what? All
the securing screws are not at the same pitch as the ones we have now
:-(

What I propose to do is buy some doweling and a spade drill slightly
smaller than the dowel. If the spade drill is making too large a
diameter hole, I'll grind the side edge until it makes a tight fit for
the dowel and then glue the dowel in to provide a blank location for
the door handle attachment screws.

Can anyone see a problem with this, apart from the fact that the
screws will be going down the grain, instead of across it.

Dave


I would not choose a spade bit. Rather just an ordinary or lip & spur
wood drill.

A spade drill will let me make the hole to my dimensions. I can grind
the sides to reduce the diameter.

But it might just be easier to shove some matchsticks, preferably coated
in decent PVA, into the existing holes. If needed, tap in with a hammer.
Let set, use a chisel to remove any excess. Fit new handles.

The holes are too close to do that, so I have to blank off old holes and
new with the plug I want to use. The handles are being replaced for the
third time :-(((

Dave

wrote:

On Mon, 22 Sep 2008 21:57:26 +0100, Dave
wrote:


Wife has decided to change 8 sets of door handles and guess what? All
the securing screws are not at the same pitch as the ones we have now :-(

What I propose to do is buy some doweling and a spade drill slightly
smaller than the dowel. If the spade drill is making too large a
diameter hole, I'll grind the side edge until it makes a tight fit for
the dowel and then glue the dowel in to provide a blank location for the
door handle attachment screws.

Can anyone see a problem with this, apart from the fact that the screws
will be going down the grain, instead of across it.

Dave


Seems like a Sledgehammer To Crack A Nut solution. If you must do it
that way ( and I cannot for the life of me see the need) then use an
ordinary drill. Better just to poke a slither of wood in to the
existing hole to take up some space ..a matchstick is the time
honoured way .

I did that last time I changed the door handles. Now, some of the screws
are very close to the new holes I need. ie overlapping.

Dave

Dave wrote:
Wife has decided to change 8 sets of door handles and guess what? All
the securing screws are not at the same pitch as the ones we have now
:-(
What I propose to do is buy some doweling and a spade drill slightly
smaller than the dowel. If the spade drill is making too large a
diameter hole, I'll grind the side edge until it makes a tight fit for
the dowel and then glue the dowel in to provide a blank location for
the door handle attachment screws.

Can anyone see a problem with this, apart from the fact that the
screws will be going down the grain, instead of across it.

Just buy a proper dowel drill which will be exactly the right size for the
dowel.
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.a...file=1&jump=44


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

The Medway Handyman wrote:
Dave wrote:
Wife has decided to change 8 sets of door handles and guess what? All
the securing screws are not at the same pitch as the ones we have now
:-(
What I propose to do is buy some doweling and a spade drill slightly
smaller than the dowel. If the spade drill is making too large a
diameter hole, I'll grind the side edge until it makes a tight fit for
the dowel and then glue the dowel in to provide a blank location for
the door handle attachment screws.

Can anyone see a problem with this, apart from the fact that the
screws will be going down the grain, instead of across it.

Just buy a proper dowel drill which will be exactly the right size for the
dowel.
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.a...file=1&jump=44



I would have thought a normal metal drill would be better, wont the wood
drills wander around when you try and drill through an existing hole?

--
Kevin R
Reply address works

Dave wrote:
Rod wrote:

Dave wrote:

Wife has decided to change 8 sets of door handles and guess what? All
the securing screws are not at the same pitch as the ones we have
now :-(

What I propose to do is buy some doweling and a spade drill slightly
smaller than the dowel. If the spade drill is making too large a
diameter hole, I'll grind the side edge until it makes a tight fit
for the dowel and then glue the dowel in to provide a blank location
for the door handle attachment screws.

Can anyone see a problem with this, apart from the fact that the
screws will be going down the grain, instead of across it.

Dave


I would not choose a spade bit. Rather just an ordinary or lip & spur
wood drill.

A spade drill will let me make the hole to my dimensions. I can grind
the sides to reduce the diameter.

But it might just be easier to shove some matchsticks, preferably
coated in decent PVA, into the existing holes. If needed, tap in with
a hammer. Let set, use a chisel to remove any excess. Fit new handles.

The holes are too close to do that, so I have to blank off old holes and
new with the plug I want to use. The handles are being replaced for the
third time :-(((


I think I must be not getting the picture! If there is an existing
screwhole, and you fill it with matchstick(s) and glue, you can make a
new hole for a new screw anywhere - including half a mm to the NW of the
original hole. If there are three holes in a cluster, fill all three!

If you nonetheless decide to use dowels, or even just to get new holes
started nicely on an imperfect surface, you could help yourself by using
some sort of drill guide. Like these:

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Axminster-Drill-Guide-Kit-21306.htm

(Annoying those steel guide bushes are in prehistoric units. In metric I
would own a set.) Note also the other versions at the bottom of that page.

--
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org

"Dave" wrote

I did that last time I changed the door handles. Now, some of the screws
are very close to the new holes I need. ie overlapping.

Dave

You can usually cheat and knock a bradawl in alongside the existing hole
then push the grain across toward the existing hole.
It takes a bit of experience knowing how far away to position the bradawl
hole such that the wood between the new and the old hole is forced across by
the new screw to the final position you want IYSWIM.

Phil

TheScullster wrote:
"Dave" wrote

I did that last time I changed the door handles. Now, some of the screws
are very close to the new holes I need. ie overlapping.

Dave

You can usually cheat and knock a bradawl in alongside the existing hole
then push the grain across toward the existing hole.
It takes a bit of experience knowing how far away to position the bradawl
hole such that the wood between the new and the old hole is forced across by
the new screw to the final position you want IYSWIM.

Phil


Doesn't work so well in hardboard... :-(

--
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org

On Tue, 23 Sep 2008 08:49:04 +0100, Rod wrote:

TheScullster wrote:
"Dave" wrote

I did that last time I changed the door handles. Now, some of the screws
are very close to the new holes I need. ie overlapping.

Dave

You can usually cheat and knock a bradawl in alongside the existing hole
then push the grain across toward the existing hole.
It takes a bit of experience knowing how far away to position the bradawl
hole such that the wood between the new and the old hole is forced across by
the new screw to the final position you want IYSWIM.

Phil


Doesn't work so well in hardboard... :-(

Err, but the hardboard is the outer layers of a sandwich where the handles
are fixed. If the original job was done properly, there'll be solid wooden
core at that point. How else are you going to hold a door lock in place?

--
Si Hoc Legere Scis Nimium Eruditionis Habes

the dot wanderer at tesco dot net

"Dave" wrote in message
...

The holes are too close to do that, so I have to blank off old holes and
new with the plug I want to use. The handles are being replaced for the
third time :-(((

I popped into aldi and bought some plug cutters yesterday.
They make wooden plugs to fit holes in 6/8/10/12 mm and are available either
tapered or parallel.
You do *need* a bench drill to use them safely.

In article ,
Dave wrote:
I would not choose a spade bit. Rather just an ordinary or lip & spur
wood drill.

A spade drill will let me make the hole to my dimensions. I can grind
the sides to reduce the diameter.

Spade drills are for fast rough drilling. Not ideal for fitting a dowel.
An auger or similar gives the cleanest entry.

--
*Failure is not an option. It's bundled with your software.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article ,
Dave wrote:

I would not choose a spade bit. Rather just an ordinary or lip & spur
wood drill.


A spade drill will let me make the hole to my dimensions. I can grind
the sides to reduce the diameter.


Spade drills are for fast rough drilling. Not ideal for fitting a dowel.
An auger or similar gives the cleanest entry.

Many thanks to all who replied. I picked up some quite good ideas.

I ended up getting some small dowel and measured it. It was 4.3 mm. I
dug out my engineers drills and selected one that was 4.1 mm. Job went
according plan and I have fitted 3 door handles successfully. The only
problem I have now is the paint lines showing from the first door
handles. Once I have fitted them all I'll get my sander out and make good.

Thanks again

Dave

The Wanderer wrote:
On Tue, 23 Sep 2008 08:49:04 +0100, Rod wrote:

TheScullster wrote:
"Dave" wrote

I did that last time I changed the door handles. Now, some of the screws
are very close to the new holes I need. ie overlapping.

Dave

You can usually cheat and knock a bradawl in alongside the existing hole
then push the grain across toward the existing hole.
It takes a bit of experience knowing how far away to position the bradawl
hole such that the wood between the new and the old hole is forced across by
the new screw to the final position you want IYSWIM.

Phil


Doesn't work so well in hardboard... :-(

Err, but the hardboard is the outer layers of a sandwich where the handles
are fixed. If the original job was done properly, there'll be solid wooden
core at that point. How else are you going to hold a door lock in place?

Of course - but where you might manage to push over a sort of splinter
of wood on a solid door, on a hardboard door the outer layer will
disintegrate if you try to do so. It was meant somewhat lightheartedly.

--
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org