In article ,
Fred wrote:

On Fri, 21 Mar 2008 07:36:27 -0000, "Jim Alexander"
wrote:


By the way, what, if any, bits come with the Wickes drill. Mine had
just one pozi drive screw bit. I can't see the point including just
that, surely they should I put in a set or nothing at all?

Manufacturers are always bundling sets of bits with tools as a way of
making it look like your getting something for nothing whilst actually
nudging the price up. You'll soon find you've got half a dozen 5.5mm
masonary bits that you never use because you've got an SDS and two dozen
PZ2 bits that are all made of monkey metal :-)

mike wrote:
In article ,
Fred wrote:

On Fri, 21 Mar 2008 07:36:27 -0000, "Jim Alexander"
wrote:


By the way, what, if any, bits come with the Wickes drill. Mine had
just one pozi drive screw bit. I can't see the point including just
that, surely they should I put in a set or nothing at all?

Manufacturers are always bundling sets of bits with tools as a way of
making it look like your getting something for nothing whilst actually
nudging the price up. You'll soon find you've got half a dozen 5.5mm
masonary bits that you never use because you've got an SDS and two
dozen PZ2 bits that are all made of monkey metal :-)

I can't understand 'sets' of masonry bits. 90% of the time I use a 6mm, the
odd occassion 8mm for larger fixings. I also carry a 5mm for small plugs &
multi montes. Typical set contains something like 2 x 4.5mm, 3 x 5.5mm, 2 x
6mm, 2 x 6.5mm, 2 x 7mm, 2 x 8mm so I would only use 4 of the 13 included.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

The Medway Handyman says...
mike wrote:
In article ,
Fred wrote:

On Fri, 21 Mar 2008 07:36:27 -0000, "Jim Alexander"
wrote:


By the way, what, if any, bits come with the Wickes drill. Mine had
just one pozi drive screw bit. I can't see the point including just
that, surely they should I put in a set or nothing at all?

Manufacturers are always bundling sets of bits with tools as a way of
making it look like your getting something for nothing whilst actually
nudging the price up. You'll soon find you've got half a dozen 5.5mm
masonary bits that you never use because you've got an SDS and two
dozen PZ2 bits that are all made of monkey metal :-)

I can't understand 'sets' of masonry bits. 90% of the time I use a 6mm, the
odd occassion 8mm for larger fixings. I also carry a 5mm for small plugs &
multi montes. Typical set contains something like 2 x 4.5mm, 3 x 5.5mm, 2 x
6mm, 2 x 6.5mm, 2 x 7mm, 2 x 8mm so I would only use 4 of the 13 included.




Sometimes I use the very small 2mm one too. If I need to
attach something with several pre-drilled holes to a wall
such as a coat hanger rail it makes a good bradawl to mark
the holes needed in a wall so they match up exactly with
the holes in the thing needing attaching. It is better than
just marking the wall as the larger 5 or 6mm masonry bit
keys into the tiny hole made by the 2mm bit better than
just a mark - so no wander.
--
David in Normandy.
To e-mail you must include the password FROG on the
subject line, or it will be automatically deleted
by a filter and not reach my inbox.

On 2008-03-22 14:21:25 +0000, "The Medway Handyman"
said:

mike wrote:
In article ,
Fred wrote:

On Fri, 21 Mar 2008 07:36:27 -0000, "Jim Alexander"
wrote:


By the way, what, if any, bits come with the Wickes drill. Mine had
just one pozi drive screw bit. I can't see the point including just
that, surely they should I put in a set or nothing at all?

Manufacturers are always bundling sets of bits with tools as a way of
making it look like your getting something for nothing whilst actually
nudging the price up. You'll soon find you've got half a dozen 5.5mm
masonary bits that you never use because you've got an SDS and two
dozen PZ2 bits that are all made of monkey metal :-)

I can't understand 'sets' of masonry bits. 90% of the time I use a 6mm, the
odd occassion 8mm for larger fixings. I also carry a 5mm for small plugs &
multi montes. Typical set contains something like 2 x 4.5mm, 3 x 5.5mm, 2 x
6mm, 2 x 6.5mm, 2 x 7mm, 2 x 8mm so I would only use 4 of the 13 included.

It's called marketing, and makes it look to the average punter that
they are getting something really good. Hence the sets of 115
assorted drills with Bosch label.

They might just as well put in a Cream Egg. The thought of either
makes me queasy.

mike wrote:

Having used augers and spades, the difference is like that between SDS
and ordinary hammer drill. Is there any situation where a spade bit it
better?

You can turn them with less torque since there is no worm thread, how
much they bite is controlled by the force you apply. So with a weedy
drill you can still cut a big hole with a spade if you take it slow and
easy.

The other advantages are they are cheap, and generally easy to cut down
to shorter lengths should you need to (or extend to longer ones with an
extension bar).

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

"John Rumm" wrote in message
...
mike wrote:

Having used augers and spades, the difference is like that between SDS
and ordinary hammer drill. Is there any situation where a spade bit it
better?

You can turn them with less torque since there is no worm thread, how much
they bite is controlled by the force you apply. So with a weedy drill you
can still cut a big hole with a spade if you take it slow and easy.

The other advantages are they are cheap, and generally easy to cut down to
shorter lengths should you need to (or extend to longer ones with an
extension bar).

Spade bits go blunt immediately. Augers are by far the best.

Owain wrote:
Andy Hall wrote:
They might just as well put in a Cream Egg. The thought of either
makes me queasy.

Thanks for reminding me what I can get from the chippy tomorrow!

;-)

We had a power cut for about seven hours yesterday, so while on a forage
to get some logs for the fire I popped up to the chippy to get snack to
keep the troops going. There pride of place (replacing the battered Mars
bar ad), was an "Easter special" battered cream egg!

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Doctor Drivel wrote:

"John Rumm" wrote in message
...
mike wrote:

Having used augers and spades, the difference is like that between
SDS and ordinary hammer drill. Is there any situation where a spade
bit it better?

You can turn them with less torque since there is no worm thread, how
much they bite is controlled by the force you apply. So with a weedy
drill you can still cut a big hole with a spade if you take it slow
and easy.

The other advantages are they are cheap, and generally easy to cut
down to shorter lengths should you need to (or extend to longer ones
with an extension bar).

Spade bits go blunt immediately. Augers are by far the best.

I agree augers are better, however there are some things they don't do
so well. Not had a problem with them going blunt in ordinary timber
however. Particle board knocks the edge off them fairly quickly though.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

John Rumm wrote:
Owain wrote:
Andy Hall wrote:
They might just as well put in a Cream Egg. The thought of either
makes me queasy.

Thanks for reminding me what I can get from the chippy tomorrow!

;-)

We had a power cut for about seven hours yesterday, so while on a
forage to get some logs for the fire I popped up to the chippy to get
snack to keep the troops going. There pride of place (replacing the
battered Mars bar ad), was an "Easter special" battered cream egg!

Thats Essex for you :-)


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

"John Rumm" wrote in message
...
Owain wrote:
Andy Hall wrote:
They might just as well put in a Cream Egg. The thought of either
makes me queasy.

Thanks for reminding me what I can get from the chippy tomorrow!

;-)

We had a power cut for about seven hours yesterday, so while on a forage
to get some logs for the fire I popped up to the chippy to get snack to
keep the troops going. There pride of place (replacing the battered Mars
bar ad), was an "Easter special" battered cream egg!

Only in Essex!

"John Rumm" wrote in message
...
The Medway Handyman wrote:
Tony Bryer wrote:
On Thu, 20 Mar 2008 21:33:22 -0000 Doctor Drivel wrote :
https://tools4trade.com/d-141015-Mak...rill-Body.aspx
One hell of a good deal. Worth it for the angle drill alone and
ditch the drill/driver.

Even better, keep the drill driver. Excellent bit of kit.
Save that they are quoting a maximum in wood of 12mm and
manufacturer's claims tend to be optimistic. This size of hole would
be just about OK for 1 2.5 T&E

I've always found Makita punches well above its weight. That 12v will
easily drill more than 12mm in wood.

I would be surprised if it didn't... my old 9.6V (or for that matter my
first 7.2V cordless) could drill a hole with a 19mm spade bit.

--
My Makita 12V angle drill has arrived so some feedback. Quite happy with a
20mm spade because as you say you can control the pressure. Not happy with
a 25mm auger. Less control over the pressure because of the lead screw.
Unlike my drill/driver this model has a overload cut-out which operates when
about 20mm into the test piece because of surface friction. Can't find my
25mm spade. If I've thrown it out that was silly. I'd still go for an
auger with a sufficiently powerful drill. Quicker and less mess.

Jim A

"Jim Alexander" wrote in message
...

"John Rumm" wrote in message
...
The Medway Handyman wrote:
Tony Bryer wrote:
On Thu, 20 Mar 2008 21:33:22 -0000 Doctor Drivel wrote :
https://tools4trade.com/d-141015-Mak...rill-Body.aspx
One hell of a good deal. Worth it for the angle drill alone and
ditch the drill/driver.

Even better, keep the drill driver. Excellent bit of kit.
Save that they are quoting a maximum in wood of 12mm and
manufacturer's claims tend to be optimistic. This size of hole would
be just about OK for 1 2.5 T&E

I've always found Makita punches well above its weight. That 12v will
easily drill more than 12mm in wood.

I would be surprised if it didn't... my old 9.6V (or for that matter my
first 7.2V cordless) could drill a hole with a 19mm spade bit.

--
My Makita 12V angle drill has arrived so some feedback. Quite happy with
a 20mm spade because as you say you can control the pressure. Not happy
with a 25mm auger. Less control over the pressure because of the lead
screw. Unlike my drill/driver this model has a overload cut-out which
operates when about 20mm into the test piece because of surface friction.
Can't find my 25mm spade. If I've thrown it out that was silly. I'd
still go for an auger with a sufficiently powerful drill. Quicker and
less mess.

So, the 12v not recommended then.

"Doctor Drivel" wrote in message
...

"Jim Alexander" wrote in message
...

"John Rumm" wrote in message
...
The Medway Handyman wrote:
Tony Bryer wrote:
On Thu, 20 Mar 2008 21:33:22 -0000 Doctor Drivel wrote :
https://tools4trade.com/d-141015-Mak...rill-Body.aspx
One hell of a good deal. Worth it for the angle drill alone and
ditch the drill/driver.

Even better, keep the drill driver. Excellent bit of kit.
Save that they are quoting a maximum in wood of 12mm and
manufacturer's claims tend to be optimistic. This size of hole would
be just about OK for 1 2.5 T&E

I've always found Makita punches well above its weight. That 12v will
easily drill more than 12mm in wood.

I would be surprised if it didn't... my old 9.6V (or for that matter my
first 7.2V cordless) could drill a hole with a 19mm spade bit.

--
My Makita 12V angle drill has arrived so some feedback. Quite happy
with a 20mm spade because as you say you can control the pressure. Not
happy with a 25mm auger. Less control over the pressure because of the
lead screw. Unlike my drill/driver this model has a overload cut-out
which operates when about 20mm into the test piece because of surface
friction. Can't find my 25mm spade. If I've thrown it out that was
silly. I'd still go for an auger with a sufficiently powerful drill.
Quicker and less mess.

So, the 12v not recommended then.

I didn't say that. For general driving and drilling its all that's needed,
more compact and lighter. I like it. But not a patch on a 18V Lidl
special for heavy duty work (while the batteries remain in good nick).
Wouldn't be surprised if the 12V drill/driver now has an overload. I know
it's needed.

Jim A

"Jim Alexander" wrote in message
...

"Doctor Drivel" wrote in message
...

"Jim Alexander" wrote in message
...

"John Rumm" wrote in message
...
The Medway Handyman wrote:
Tony Bryer wrote:
On Thu, 20 Mar 2008 21:33:22 -0000 Doctor Drivel wrote :
https://tools4trade.com/d-141015-Mak...rill-Body.aspx
One hell of a good deal. Worth it for the angle drill alone and
ditch the drill/driver.

Even better, keep the drill driver. Excellent bit of kit.
Save that they are quoting a maximum in wood of 12mm and
manufacturer's claims tend to be optimistic. This size of hole would
be just about OK for 1 2.5 T&E

I've always found Makita punches well above its weight. That 12v will
easily drill more than 12mm in wood.

I would be surprised if it didn't... my old 9.6V (or for that matter my
first 7.2V cordless) could drill a hole with a 19mm spade bit.

--
My Makita 12V angle drill has arrived so some feedback. Quite happy
with a 20mm spade because as you say you can control the pressure. Not
happy with a 25mm auger. Less control over the pressure because of the
lead screw. Unlike my drill/driver this model has a overload cut-out
which operates when about 20mm into the test piece because of surface
friction. Can't find my 25mm spade. If I've thrown it out that was
silly. I'd still go for an auger with a sufficiently powerful drill.
Quicker and less mess.

So, the 12v not recommended then.

I didn't say that. For general driving and drilling its all that's
needed, more compact and lighter. I like it. But not a patch on a 18V
Lidl special for heavy duty work (while the batteries remain in good
nick). Wouldn't be surprised if the 12V drill/driver now has an overload.
I know it's needed.

Lidl sell and 18v angle drill? How much? I have never seen one in there.

"Doctor Drivel" wrote in message
...

"Jim Alexander" wrote in message
...

"Doctor Drivel" wrote in message
...

"Jim Alexander" wrote in message
...

"John Rumm" wrote in message
...
The Medway Handyman wrote:
Tony Bryer wrote:
On Thu, 20 Mar 2008 21:33:22 -0000 Doctor Drivel wrote :
https://tools4trade.com/d-141015-Mak...rill-Body.aspx
One hell of a good deal. Worth it for the angle drill alone and
ditch the drill/driver.

Even better, keep the drill driver. Excellent bit of kit.
Save that they are quoting a maximum in wood of 12mm and
manufacturer's claims tend to be optimistic. This size of hole would
be just about OK for 1 2.5 T&E

I've always found Makita punches well above its weight. That 12v
will easily drill more than 12mm in wood.

I would be surprised if it didn't... my old 9.6V (or for that matter
my first 7.2V cordless) could drill a hole with a 19mm spade bit.

--
My Makita 12V angle drill has arrived so some feedback. Quite happy
with a 20mm spade because as you say you can control the pressure. Not
happy with a 25mm auger. Less control over the pressure because of the
lead screw. Unlike my drill/driver this model has a overload cut-out
which operates when about 20mm into the test piece because of surface
friction. Can't find my 25mm spade. If I've thrown it out that was
silly. I'd still go for an auger with a sufficiently powerful drill.
Quicker and less mess.

So, the 12v not recommended then.

I didn't say that. For general driving and drilling its all that's
needed, more compact and lighter. I like it. But not a patch on a 18V
Lidl special for heavy duty work (while the batteries remain in good
nick). Wouldn't be surprised if the 12V drill/driver now has an overload.
I know it's needed.

Lidl sell and 18v angle drill? How much? I have never seen one in there.

no, a normal drill/driver, not an angle drill.

Jim A

On 2008-03-26 15:21:25 +0000, "Doctor Drivel" said:


"Jim Alexander" wrote in message
...

My Makita 12V angle drill has arrived so some feedback. Quite happy
with a 20mm spade because as you say you can control the pressure. Not
happy with a 25mm auger. Less control over the pressure because of the
lead screw. Unlike my drill/driver this model has a overload cut-out
which operates when about 20mm into the test piece because of surface
friction. Can't find my 25mm spade. If I've thrown it out that was
silly. I'd still go for an auger with a sufficiently powerful drill.
Quicker and less mess.

So, the 12v not recommended then.

I didn't say that. For general driving and drilling its all that's
needed, more compact and lighter. I like it. But not a patch on a
18V Lidl special for heavy duty work (while the batteries remain in
good nick). Wouldn't be surprised if the 12V drill/driver now has an
overload. I know it's needed.

Lidl sell and 18v angle drill? How much? I have never seen one in there.

Forget it.

Lidl sells cauliflowers.

If you want something that may work reasonably with a spade bit, then
it can be done with a 12 or 14.4v Makita.

If you want something that will work with a proper short auger bit,
then an 18v Makita on low gear setting will do a proper job of this..

Jim Alexander wrote:

I would be surprised if it didn't... my old 9.6V (or for that matter my
first 7.2V cordless) could drill a hole with a 19mm spade bit.

--
My Makita 12V angle drill has arrived so some feedback. Quite happy with a
20mm spade because as you say you can control the pressure. Not happy with
a 25mm auger. Less control over the pressure because of the lead screw.

One way to tame the load of an auger is to pre drill a small pilot hole
(say 3 - 5mm). That reduces the pull of the worm screw allowing the
auger to take a shallower bite. I have an expansive bit that requires
this treatment in some cases, because it can require a fearsome amount
of torque otherwise.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

"Andy Hall" wrote in message news:47eadb48@qaanaaq...
On 2008-03-26 15:21:25 +0000, "Doctor Drivel" said:


"Jim Alexander" wrote in message
...

My Makita 12V angle drill has arrived so some feedback. Quite happy
with a 20mm spade because as you say you can control the pressure.
Not happy with a 25mm auger. Less control over the pressure because
of the lead screw. Unlike my drill/driver this model has a overload
cut-out which operates when about 20mm into the test piece because of
surface friction. Can't find my 25mm spade. If I've thrown it out
that was silly. I'd still go for an auger with a sufficiently
powerful drill. Quicker and less mess.

So, the 12v not recommended then.

I didn't say that. For general driving and drilling its all that's
needed, more compact and lighter. I like it. But not a patch on a 18V
Lidl special for heavy duty work (while the batteries remain in good
nick). Wouldn't be surprised if the 12V drill/driver now has an
overload. I know it's needed.

Lidl sell and 18v angle drill? How much? I have never seen one in
there.

Forget it.

Lidl sells cauliflowers.

Do they drill in augers too?

If you want something that may work reasonably with a spade bit, then it
can be done with a 12 or 14.4v Makita.

If you want something that will work with a proper short auger bit, then
an 18v Makita on low gear setting will do a proper job of this..

But Matt, Makitas are crap.

On 2008-03-26 23:55:06 +0000, "Doctor Drivel" said:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message news:47eadb48@qaanaaq...
On 2008-03-26 15:21:25 +0000, "Doctor Drivel" said:


"Jim Alexander" wrote in message
...

My Makita 12V angle drill has arrived so some feedback. Quite happy
with a 20mm spade because as you say you can control the pressure. Not
happy with a 25mm auger. Less control over the pressure because of the
lead screw. Unlike my drill/driver this model has a overload cut-out
which operates when about 20mm into the test piece because of surface
friction. Can't find my 25mm spade. If I've thrown it out that was
silly. I'd still go for an auger with a sufficiently powerful drill.
Quicker and less mess.

So, the 12v not recommended then.

I didn't say that. For general driving and drilling its all that's
needed, more compact and lighter. I like it. But not a patch on a
18V Lidl special for heavy duty work (while the batteries remain in
good nick). Wouldn't be surprised if the 12V drill/driver now has an
overload. I know it's needed.

Lidl sell and 18v angle drill? How much? I have never seen one in there.

Forget it.

Lidl sells cauliflowers.

Do they drill in augers too?

Does not compute.


If you want something that may work reasonably with a spade bit, then
it can be done with a 12 or 14.4v Makita.

If you want something that will work with a proper short auger bit,
then an 18v Makita on low gear setting will do a proper job of this..

But Matt, Makitas are crap.

They don't make hacksaws so how would you know?

"Andy Hall" wrote in message news:47eb3c5f@qaanaaq...
On 2008-03-26 23:55:06 +0000, "Doctor Drivel" said:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message news:47eadb48@qaanaaq...
On 2008-03-26 15:21:25 +0000, "Doctor Drivel" said:


"Jim Alexander" wrote in message
...

My Makita 12V angle drill has arrived so some feedback. Quite
happy with a 20mm spade because as you say you can control the
pressure. Not happy with a 25mm auger. Less control over the
pressure because of the lead screw. Unlike my drill/driver this
model has a overload cut-out which operates when about 20mm into the
test piece because of surface friction. Can't find my 25mm spade.
If I've thrown it out that was silly. I'd still go for an auger
with a sufficiently powerful drill. Quicker and less mess.

So, the 12v not recommended then.

I didn't say that. For general driving and drilling its all that's
needed, more compact and lighter. I like it. But not a patch on a
18V Lidl special for heavy duty work (while the batteries remain in
good nick). Wouldn't be surprised if the 12V drill/driver now has an
overload. I know it's needed.

Lidl sell and 18v angle drill? How much? I have never seen one in
there.

Forget it.

Lidl sells cauliflowers.

Do they drill in augers too?

Does not compute.

If you want something that may work reasonably with a spade bit, then it
can be done with a 12 or 14.4v Makita.

If you want something that will work with a proper short auger bit, then
an 18v Makita on low gear setting will do a proper job of this..

But Matt, Makitas are crap.

They don't make hacksaws so how would you know?

Taking a hacksaw to them is the bets thing. They do make some real poor
quality trash. Panasonic, Hilti, etc are far superior.

On 2008-03-27 09:33:50 +0000, "Doctor Drivel" said:

Taking a hacksaw to them is the bets thing.

Are you buying your tools in Ladbrokes now? I know that they
already serve cabbages so not too much of a stretch



They do make some real poor quality trash. Panasonic, Hilti, etc are
far superior.

How would you know? Which products do you own?

"Andy Hall" wrote in message news:47ebb833@qaanaaq...
On 2008-03-27 09:33:50 +0000, "Doctor Drivel" said:

Taking a hacksaw to them is the bets thing.

Are you buying your tools in Ladbrokes now? I know that they
already serve cabbages so not too much of a stretch

They do make some real poor quality trash. Panasonic, Hilti, etc are
far superior.

How would you know? Which products do you own?

HIlti are far superior to Makita.

On 2008-03-27 22:49:24 +0000, "Doctor Drivel" said:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message news:47ebb833@qaanaaq...
On 2008-03-27 09:33:50 +0000, "Doctor Drivel" said:

Taking a hacksaw to them is the bets thing.

Are you buying your tools in Ladbrokes now? I know that they
already serve cabbages so not too much of a stretch

They do make some real poor quality trash. Panasonic, Hilti, etc are
far superior.

How would you know? Which products do you own?

HIlti are far superior to Makita.

Which Hilti and which Makita products do you own or have you used?

"Andy Hall" wrote in message news:47ec288e@qaanaaq...
On 2008-03-27 22:49:24 +0000, "Doctor Drivel" said:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message news:47ebb833@qaanaaq...
On 2008-03-27 09:33:50 +0000, "Doctor Drivel" said:

Taking a hacksaw to them is the bets thing.

Are you buying your tools in Ladbrokes now? I know that they already
serve cabbages so not too much of a stretch

They do make some real poor quality trash. Panasonic, Hilti, etc are
far superior.

How would you know? Which products do you own?

HIlti are far superior to Makita.

Which Hilti and which Makita products do you own or have you used?

Many over the years. I used the original Hilti which you smacked with a
hammer and set off an explosive charge which fired the nail in. Much fun.

On 2008-03-27 23:38:47 +0000, "Doctor Drivel" said:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message news:47ec288e@qaanaaq...
On 2008-03-27 22:49:24 +0000, "Doctor Drivel" said:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message news:47ebb833@qaanaaq...
On 2008-03-27 09:33:50 +0000, "Doctor Drivel" said:

Taking a hacksaw to them is the bets thing.

Are you buying your tools in Ladbrokes now? I know that they
already serve cabbages so not too much of a stretch

They do make some real poor quality trash. Panasonic, Hilti, etc are
far superior.

How would you know? Which products do you own?

HIlti are far superior to Makita.

Which Hilti and which Makita products do you own or have you used?

Many over the years. I used the original Hilti which you smacked with
a hammer and set off an explosive charge which fired the nail in. Much
fun.

Somebody let you loose with explosives?

On Sat, 22 Mar 2008 14:21:25 GMT, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:

I can't understand 'sets' of masonry bits. 90% of the time I use a 6mm, the
odd occassion 8mm for larger fixings. I also carry a 5mm for small plugs &
multi montes. Typical set contains something like 2 x 4.5mm, 3 x 5.5mm, 2 x
6mm, 2 x 6.5mm, 2 x 7mm, 2 x 8mm so I would only use 4 of the 13 included.

I agree that 6mm is the only one I ever use. Perhaps a smaller one for
the occasional pilot hole. I wonder why 6mm should be the most common
size?

The point I was trying to make was that it seemed strange to include
just one pozi bit. It would have been better to include nothing at
all. If they were going to include a bit, they could have at least
included a slotted screwdriver bit as well. Including just one looked
mean and miserly!

Fred wrote:
On Sat, 22 Mar 2008 14:21:25 GMT, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:

I can't understand 'sets' of masonry bits. 90% of the time I use a
6mm, the odd occassion 8mm for larger fixings. I also carry a 5mm
for small plugs & multi montes. Typical set contains something like
2 x 4.5mm, 3 x 5.5mm, 2 x 6mm, 2 x 6.5mm, 2 x 7mm, 2 x 8mm so I
would only use 4 of the 13 included.

I agree that 6mm is the only one I ever use. Perhaps a smaller one for
the occasional pilot hole. I wonder why 6mm should be the most common
size?


I reckon its because of Fischer Fixings using it as a standard size & lets
face it you don't often need bigger.

The point I was trying to make was that it seemed strange to include
just one pozi bit. It would have been better to include nothing at
all. If they were going to include a bit, they could have at least
included a slotted screwdriver bit as well. Including just one looked
mean and miserly!

See what you mean, bits aren't exactly expensive anyway are they?

How are you getting on with the drill?



--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

On Mon, 31 Mar 2008 18:59:03 GMT, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:

I agree that 6mm is the only one I ever use. Perhaps a smaller one for
the occasional pilot hole. I wonder why 6mm should be the most common
size?

I reckon its because of Fischer Fixings using it as a standard size & lets
face it you don't often need bigger.

Thanks. I wasn't sure if there was some historical reason to do with
6mm being (about) a quarter of an inch but I guess I was thinking too
hard! I am sure it is because screws are a certain size that wall
plugs have to be that little bit larger and coincidently it works out
at 6mm.

How are you getting on with the drill?

I have not tried the right-angle attachment yet. It seems the builders
ran all the pipework and cables under the landing so there's no room
for me to drill and add anything else

I have drilled into some masonry with it. There was one particularly
hard brick but it drilled into that (for a 6mm wall plug) albeit it
took a little longer than average.

On Wed, 09 Apr 2008 11:37:36 GMT, Fred
wrote:

I have drilled into some masonry with it. There was one particularly
hard brick but it drilled into that (for a 6mm wall plug) albeit it
took a little longer than average.


I forgot to say, the greatest thing about it (or any cordless drill)
is the convenience. I know it should not be a problem to plug an
extention lead in but for some reason I used that as an excuse not to
do jobs. Now that I can just pick up the drill and go to work, I am
more eager to do the things I've never got round to before.

"Fred" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 09 Apr 2008 11:37:36 GMT, Fred
wrote:

I have drilled into some masonry with it. There was one particularly
hard brick but it drilled into that (for a 6mm wall plug) albeit it
took a little longer than average.

This drill is not a hammer drill. Is that so?

I forgot to say, the greatest thing about it (or any cordless drill)
is the convenience. I know it should not be a problem to plug an
extention lead in but for some reason I used that as an excuse not to
do jobs. Now that I can just pick up the drill and go to work, I am
more eager to do the things I've never got round to before.

"Doctor Drivel" wrote in message
...

"Fred" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 09 Apr 2008 11:37:36 GMT, Fred
wrote:

I have drilled into some masonry with it. There was one particularly
hard brick but it drilled into that (for a 6mm wall plug) albeit it
took a little longer than average.

This drill is not a hammer drill. Is that so?

If he puts a BOSH multi-construction drill in it I don't think he would
notice.
Those things drill concrete with or without the hammer.

dennis@home wrote:
"Doctor Drivel" wrote in message
...

"Fred" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 09 Apr 2008 11:37:36 GMT, Fred
wrote:

I have drilled into some masonry with it. There was one
particularly hard brick but it drilled into that (for a 6mm wall
plug) albeit it took a little longer than average.

This drill is not a hammer drill. Is that so?

If he puts a BOSH multi-construction drill in it I don't think he
would notice.
Those things drill concrete with or without the hammer.

They do indeed, bloody brilliant things. Great for battening walls,
straight through the wood into the wall, whack in a hammer fix & bobs your
uncle.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message
...


dennis@home wrote:
"Doctor Drivel" wrote in message
...

"Fred" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 09 Apr 2008 11:37:36 GMT, Fred
wrote:

I have drilled into some masonry with it. There was one
particularly hard brick but it drilled into that (for a 6mm wall
plug) albeit it took a little longer than average.

This drill is not a hammer drill. Is that so?

If he puts a BOSH multi-construction drill in it I don't think he
would notice.
Those things drill concrete with or without the hammer.

They do indeed, bloody brilliant things. Great for battening walls,
straight through the wood into the wall, whack in a hammer fix & bobs your
uncle.

I believe they blunt quickly when used in concrete or brick. I have used
one as I have never had the need to buy one.

On Sun, 13 Apr 2008 21:15:15 +0100, "dennis@home"
wrote:

If he puts a BOSH multi-construction drill in it I don't think he would
notice.
Those things drill concrete with or without the hammer.

Hello again,

Just to clarify, I was using the Bosch muti-construction 6mm, like we
were saying earlier in the thread, it's more or less the only bit/size
I use!

My drill definitely has no hammer action. One poster said there was a
switch on the top but on mine that switch selects the gear; one is
marked with a drill icon, the other with a screw icon.

I haven't has a cordless drill before so I really enjoy the
convenience of it.

It did drill into the brick, it was just that the brick was quite
tough and it took longer than the other three holes. Those other holes
were into brick too and they went in easily.

HTH.

On Sun, 13 Apr 2008 22:14:03 +0100, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:

I believe they blunt quickly when used in concrete or brick. I have used
one as I have never had the need to buy one.

Sorry for the late reply. I've had a letter from Wickes. They say that
this model has never had hammer action. They also say it's a Draper
model.

I was using a Bosch bit into brick with it the other day. I don't
think it has blunted but perhaps I didn't do enough holes to have an
effect?

I was struggling to get into the corners. It was only once I had
scuffed my shiny new drill that I realised I could have used the
attachment to get into the corners more easily

"Fred" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 13 Apr 2008 22:14:03 +0100, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:

I believe they blunt quickly when used in concrete or brick. I have used
one as I have never had the need to buy one.

Sorry for the late reply. I've had a letter from Wickes. They say that
this model has never had hammer action. They also say it's a Draper
model.

The Wickes drill with the angle attachment is not a Draper, it is clearly a
Kress. The pictures of the Kress and the Wickes are identical in every way,
except the colour. They are wrong, probably in an attempt to fob you off as
they are dropping the drill.

"Doctor Drivel" wrote in message
...

"Fred" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 13 Apr 2008 22:14:03 +0100, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:

I believe they blunt quickly when used in concrete or brick. I have used
one as I have never had the need to buy one.

Sorry for the late reply. I've had a letter from Wickes. They say that
this model has never had hammer action. They also say it's a Draper
model.

The Wickes drill with the angle attachment is not a Draper, it is clearly
a Kress. The pictures of the Kress and the Wickes are identical in every
way, except the colour. They are wrong, probably in an attempt to fob you
off as they are dropping the drill.


Why can't they both be Draper?
Lots of companies badge other companies stuff.

On Tue, 29 Apr 2008 18:51:36 +0100, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:

The Wickes drill with the angle attachment is not a Draper, it is clearly a
Kress. The pictures of the Kress and the Wickes are identical in every way,

That's what I thought. The original post said it was a Kress so I went
to the Kress web site to learn more. As you say, they are identical
except in colour. Probably the letter got answered by someone in
customer services who didn't know, rather than someone in purchasing
who knew where they got it from!

Fred wrote:
On Tue, 29 Apr 2008 18:51:36 +0100, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:

The Wickes drill with the angle attachment is not a Draper, it is clearly a
Kress. The pictures of the Kress and the Wickes are identical in every way,

That's what I thought. The original post said it was a Kress so I went
to the Kress web site to learn more. As you say, they are identical
except in colour. Probably the letter got answered by someone in
customer services who didn't know, rather than someone in purchasing
who knew where they got it from!

Draper badge engineer all sorts of stuff. Some is quite decent (they do
a version of the Freud FT2000E router under their label (as does
Wickes)), but they also do quite a lot of tat as well - so you can't
really take the "brand" at face value.


--
Cheers,

John.

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In article ,
"dennis@home" wrote:

Why can't they both be Draper?
Lots of companies badge other companies stuff.


Draper are the service agents that Wickes use for guarantee repairs. As
far as I know, Draper don't manufacture anything.

I bought one last week. I already have the previous model without angle
attachment which has (and continues to do) sterling service over several
years. Wickes have now dropped the price to £50 so an even better
bargain - but it's only avialble in instore and was removed from the
website a while ago.