I am replacing all the brass door furniture throughout the house with satin
nickel. The hinges are the same size (75mm) but the outer screw holes don't
100% match the original. What are my options to ensure the hinges are fixed
securely?

TIA

On Fri, 8 Feb 2008 08:51:48 -0000, diy-newby wrote:

The hinges are the same size (75mm) but the outer screw holes don't
100% match the original. What are my options to ensure the hinges are
fixed securely?

How far out are the holes? Will the screws pull tight and the heads not be
wonky? If so no problem...

Otherwise it's packing the old holes with small match stick sized bits of
wood and glue. Remember the hole left a by wood screw is tapered so a
sinle match gently tapped in will fill the bottom of the hole but require
more around the top.

--
Cheers
Dave.

diy-newby wrote:
I am replacing all the brass door furniture throughout the house with
satin nickel. The hinges are the same size (75mm) but the outer
screw holes don't 100% match the original. What are my options to
ensure the hinges are fixed securely?

TIA

Pack the old screw holes with matchsticks.

--
LSR

On 8 Feb, 09:37, "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:
On Fri, 8 Feb 2008 08:51:48 -0000, diy-newby wrote:
The hinges are the same size (75mm) but the outer screw holes don't
100% match the original. *What are my options to ensure the hinges are
fixed securely?

How far out are the holes? Will the screws pull tight and the heads not be
wonky? If so no problem...

Otherwise it's packing the old holes with small match stick sized bits of
wood and glue. Remember the hole left a by wood screw is tapered so a
sinle match gently tapped in will fill the bottom of the hole but require
more around the top.

--
Cheers
Dave.

I'm glad its not just me that does that!! Are matchsticks /
matchstick sized pieces of wood the filler of choice of professionals
for these sorts of holes? I've never had a problem with it, but just
curious if I'm doing things right or wrong!

Matt

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
diy-newby wrote:

I am replacing all the brass door furniture throughout the house with
satin nickel. The hinges are the same size (75mm) but the outer
screw holes don't 100% match the original. What are my options to
ensure the hinges are fixed securely?

TIA

Presumably the holes are in *nearly* the same place, but not quite - so that
the old and new holes would partially overlap?

I would be inclined to drill out the old holes to (say) 1/4" and then glue
some 1/4" dowelling in the enlarged holes. You will then have something firm
to which to screw the new hinges.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

"Roger Mills" wrote in message
...
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
diy-newby wrote:

I am replacing all the brass door furniture throughout the house with
satin nickel. The hinges are the same size (75mm) but the outer
screw holes don't 100% match the original. What are my options to
ensure the hinges are fixed securely?

TIA

Presumably the holes are in *nearly* the same place, but not quite - so
that the old and new holes would partially overlap?

I would be inclined to drill out the old holes to (say) 1/4" and then glue
some 1/4" dowelling in the enlarged holes. You will then have something
firm to which to screw the new hinges.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

Thanks all who replied. I did think about matchsticks and glue, just wasn't
sure if that was the correct thing to do.

In article , diy-newby wrote:

Thanks all who replied. I did think about matchsticks and glue, just
wasn't sure if that was the correct thing to do.

It's the traditional way. ;-)

I'd use a self centering bit to drill the pilot holes - a help if the
old ones are close to the new.

--
*And don't start a sentence with a conjunction *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

There is a snag with plugging the holes with dowel or matchsticks. If
the new screw holes are going to run into, or even partly into, the
wood you are effectively screwing into end grain.
The perfect solution is to enlarge the holes to, say, 1/2" and glue in
a plug cut using a proper plug cutter. I've repaired a number of worn
hinge screw holes that way before.

On 8 Feb, 09:38, "LSR" wrote:

Pack the old screw holes with matchsticks.

Pack the old holes with split bamboo chopsticks. They're easier to
split than matchsticks, and they're harder and thus give a better
grip. These are doors we're talking about here, not just cuphooks.

I've a big pile of old (recycled from Budokan) chopsticks in the
workshop - they get used for everything from gluesticks to dowel pegs.
For coopered chests like this, I'd be there all day if I had to make
dowels too.
http://codesmiths.com/shed/boxes/sarah/

wrote in


I'm glad its not just me that does that!! Are matchsticks /
matchstick sized pieces of wood the filler of choice of professionals
for these sorts of holes? I've never had a problem with it, but just
curious if I'm doing things right or wrong!

How unprofessional!

You're supposed to use cocktail sticks - that's why the ends are tapered.

--
PeterMcC
If you feel that any of the above is incorrect,
inappropriate or offensive in any way,
please ignore it and accept my apologies.

PeterMcC wrote:
wrote in


I'm glad its not just me that does that!! Are matchsticks /
matchstick sized pieces of wood the filler of choice of professionals
for these sorts of holes? I've never had a problem with it, but just
curious if I'm doing things right or wrong!

How unprofessional!

You're supposed to use cocktail sticks - that's why the ends are
tapered.

Amateur! Its bamboo skewers.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

1501 wrote:
There is a snag with plugging the holes with dowel or matchsticks. If
the new screw holes are going to run into, or even partly into, the
wood you are effectively screwing into end grain.

Why would that be a problem? Thousands of door frames, skirtings etc have
been fixed that way in the past - it was standard practice.

The perfect solution is to enlarge the holes to, say, 1/2" and glue in
a plug cut using a proper plug cutter. I've repaired a number of worn
hinge screw holes that way before.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

On 8 Feb, 20:17, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:

Why would that be a problem? *Thousands of door frames, skirtings etc have
been fixed that way in the past - it was standard practice.

I'm not saying screwing into end grain won't work, but I've found from
practical experience the holding power with ordinary screws in end-
grain is usually sh*t compared to cross-grain. Admitedly some of these
fancy multi-start poxy-drive screws may be OK.

Go on call me a luddite.

1501 wrote:
On 8 Feb, 20:17, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:

Why would that be a problem? Thousands of door frames, skirtings etc
have been fixed that way in the past - it was standard practice.

I'm not saying screwing into end grain won't work, but I've found from
practical experience the holding power with ordinary screws in end-
grain is usually sh*t compared to cross-grain. Admitedly some of these
fancy multi-start poxy-drive screws may be OK.

Go on call me a luddite.

OK, you're a ........

:-)

Ah, but the end grain is confined by the hole around it. I use 4mm dowels
(when I can find the buggers, no one seems to stock them anymore). Perfect
fit for No 8 screws. Hammer it in, the taper starts it off, then use a
Turbo Gold screw.

Easier to get a sailor off your sister than shift that.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

"LSR" wrote in message
...
diy-newby wrote:
I am replacing all the brass door furniture throughout the house with
satin nickel. The hinges are the same size (75mm) but the outer
screw holes don't 100% match the original. What are my options to
ensure the hinges are fixed securely?

TIA

Pack the old screw holes with matchsticks.

--
LSR
Re align the hole with a small drill bit and use a longer screw

In message , The Medway
Handyman writes
PeterMcC wrote:
wrote in


I'm glad its not just me that does that!! Are matchsticks /
matchstick sized pieces of wood the filler of choice of professionals
for these sorts of holes? I've never had a problem with it, but just
curious if I'm doing things right or wrong!

How unprofessional!

You're supposed to use cocktail sticks - that's why the ends are
tapered.

Amateur! Its bamboo skewers.

No, those are for putting under the fingernails of anyone who yells you
how unprofessional the job looks


--
geoff

In message , Roger Mills
writes
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
diy-newby wrote:

I am replacing all the brass door furniture throughout the house with
satin nickel. The hinges are the same size (75mm) but the outer
screw holes don't 100% match the original. What are my options to
ensure the hinges are fixed securely?

TIA

Presumably the holes are in *nearly* the same place, but not quite - so that
the old and new holes would partially overlap?

I would be inclined to drill out the old holes to (say) 1/4" and then glue
some 1/4" dowelling in the enlarged holes. You will then have something firm
to which to screw the new hinges.

now, where's my poster of screws with two threads, offsets etc ...


--
geoff

On Fri, 08 Feb 2008 20:17:26 GMT, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:

1501 wrote:
There is a snag with plugging the holes with dowel or matchsticks. If
the new screw holes are going to run into, or even partly into, the
wood you are effectively screwing into end grain.

Why would that be a problem? Thousands of door frames, skirtings etc have
been fixed that way in the past - it was standard practice.

The only possible snag with matchsticks is that they're (or were)
often dipped in wax, which might stop the glue working properly.

--
Frank Erskine