Hi, I'm looking for a bit of advice on a choice of construction
technique for a drive I want to put in. I currently have a rear access
to my property consisting of an passageway approx 2.5-3m wide and 30m
long. However it has a right angle turn half way along with a
rectangle about 3x3.5m for turning - very tight I know, but I am happy
that I can get a smart car round there easily, and that's all I want
it for - besides everyday foot/bike/pram traffic. The path is
currently mud/grass, and that drags all the muck around onto my new
patio hence the need for a change. Also if I did get a smart car this
would soon churn this up, especially as it gets very muddy in the wet.

I'm trying to determine the cheapest option which will meet my
criteria, and need to work out approx costs for both a DIY and a
contractor solution, as I'm not sure if I'll have the time myself for
this particular job. The actual area, if I allow a 2m wide strip and a
rectangle of 3x3.5m2 to turn on will be about 66m2.

My thoughts turn to a type 1 base (not sure how deep yet - any ideas)
with chippings (again ideas for which grade welcomed) on top and one
of those plastic honeycombs over the type 1 in the turning area to
prevent movement of chippings over time. Although I'm not convinced by
the idea, I've been told to just use weedkiller to stop vegatation
growing through and looking messy - I was swaying towards a
landscaping sheet, although for this area that could prove pricy?

However, if there is a different option which would be cheaper, I'd be
glad to know about it. I really need to keep the costs down on this
one, so if any of you guys have an idea of ballpark figures for this
type of job (all in for both DIY and contractor approaches) I'd be
grateful to know. Also, any advice on best type of contractor for this
type of job, so I can look on tinternet and yellow pages?

Many Thanks,
Richard.

Richard wrote:
Hi, I'm looking for a bit of advice on a choice of construction
technique for a drive I want to put in. I currently have a rear access
to my property consisting of an passageway approx 2.5-3m wide and 30m
long. However it has a right angle turn half way along with a
rectangle about 3x3.5m for turning - very tight I know, but I am happy
that I can get a smart car round there easily, and that's all I want
it for - besides everyday foot/bike/pram traffic. The path is
currently mud/grass, and that drags all the muck around onto my new
patio hence the need for a change. Also if I did get a smart car this
would soon churn this up, especially as it gets very muddy in the wet.

I'm trying to determine the cheapest option which will meet my
criteria, and need to work out approx costs for both a DIY and a
contractor solution, as I'm not sure if I'll have the time myself for
this particular job. The actual area, if I allow a 2m wide strip and a
rectangle of 3x3.5m2 to turn on will be about 66m2.

My thoughts turn to a type 1 base (not sure how deep yet - any ideas)
with chippings (again ideas for which grade welcomed) on top and one
of those plastic honeycombs over the type 1 in the turning area to
prevent movement of chippings over time. Although I'm not convinced by
the idea, I've been told to just use weedkiller to stop vegatation
growing through and looking messy - I was swaying towards a
landscaping sheet, although for this area that could prove pricy?

However, if there is a different option which would be cheaper, I'd be
glad to know about it. I really need to keep the costs down on this
one, so if any of you guys have an idea of ballpark figures for this
type of job (all in for both DIY and contractor approaches) I'd be
grateful to know. Also, any advice on best type of contractor for this
type of job, so I can look on tinternet and yellow pages?

Many Thanks,
Richard.


www.pavingexpert.com

Richard wrote:

Hi, I'm looking for a bit of advice on a choice of construction
technique for a drive I want to put in...
I'm trying to determine the cheapest option which will meet my
criteria, and need to work out approx costs for both a DIY and a
contractor solution, as I'm not sure if I'll have the time myself for
this particular job. The actual area, if I allow a 2m wide strip and a
rectangle of 3x3.5m2 to turn on will be about 66m2.

The cheapest option is dig down a couple of inches, lay down an anti
weed membrane, then dump 3 or 4 tonnes of gravel on it, then rake flat.
Gravel is typically £35/tonne delivered loose. A membrane sheet will be
£40, and a skip, if needed to take away the turf will be £80ish.
Edging stones if needed (round top concrete) are £3/metre.

A better option would be 2 lines of slabs for the driveway (spaced at
between the wheels width), then a slabbed area for the turning. More
expensive, but worthwhile.
A quick calculation shows around 200 450mm square slabs needed, so the
slabs would be ~£325. Add in 3 tonnes of sand(£110), 10 bags of
cement(£35), and a skip (£110), and total materials cost is roughly
£600.
I could do that in 3 days, add another £300 for labour, so around £900
if you pay someone, though I am dead cheap, so you'd probably pay more
labour cost than that.
Alan.
--
To reply by e-mail, change the ' + ' to 'plus'.

A.Lee wrote:
Richard wrote:

Hi, I'm looking for a bit of advice on a choice of construction
technique for a drive I want to put in...
I'm trying to determine the cheapest option which will meet my
criteria, and need to work out approx costs for both a DIY and a
contractor solution, as I'm not sure if I'll have the time myself for
this particular job. The actual area, if I allow a 2m wide strip and
a rectangle of 3x3.5m2 to turn on will be about 66m2.

The cheapest option is dig down a couple of inches, lay down an anti
weed membrane, then dump 3 or 4 tonnes of gravel on it, then rake
flat. Gravel is typically £35/tonne delivered loose. A membrane sheet
will be £40, and a skip, if needed to take away the turf will be
£80ish. Edging stones if needed (round top concrete) are £3/metre.

A better option would be 2 lines of slabs for the driveway (spaced at
between the wheels width), then a slabbed area for the turning. More
expensive, but worthwhile.
A quick calculation shows around 200 450mm square slabs needed, so the
slabs would be ~£325. Add in 3 tonnes of sand(£110), 10 bags of
cement(£35), and a skip (£110), and total materials cost is roughly
£600.
I could do that in 3 days, add another £300 for labour, so around £900
if you pay someone, though I am dead cheap, so you'd probably pay more
labour cost than that.

You are far too cheap mate. Put your prices up.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

The Medway Handyman wrote:
A.Lee wrote:
Richard wrote:
Hi, I'm looking for a bit of advice on a choice of construction
technique for a drive I want to put in...
I'm trying to determine the cheapest option which will meet my
criteria, and need to work out approx costs for both a DIY and a
contractor solution, as I'm not sure if I'll have the time myself for
this particular job. The actual area, if I allow a 2m wide strip and
a rectangle of 3x3.5m2 to turn on will be about 66m2.

A quick calculation shows around 200 450mm square slabs needed, so the
slabs would be ~£325. Add in 3 tonnes of sand(£110), 10 bags of
cement(£35), and a skip (£110), and total materials cost is roughly
£600.
I could do that in 3 days, add another £300 for labour, so around £900
if you pay someone, though I am dead cheap, so you'd probably pay more
labour cost than that.

You are far too cheap mate. Put your prices up.

I could if I had any work, but it has been dead since Christmas.
Things are picking up for this week, as I put an ad in the local paper
last week, and have got a few contacts through that - 1 looks promising,
a property developer who I met this afternoon at one of his houses, a
decent chap who was doing good quality work.

I gave a price today, - cut down 3 kitchen worktops to fit, join up 1,
and cut the kickboards to size. I thought 3 - 4 hours, so £50. the bloke
thought that was too much. FFS, he'd moan if I didnt cut them square,
yet the moaning bugger didnt want to pay.

I hinted at my day on Saturday in another post.I'd got a call at 7pm on
Friday, would I do a few hours work on Sat. OK I say. Then I was
questioned on my skills. "Could I make a wooden box to box in some
pipes, and secure some kitchen cabinets?"
Yes, no problem. This was a bloke who had supposedly refurbished a house
for a landlord, so I assumed he knew what he was doing.

I got there, and knew right away I was dealing with total amateurs, who
had no clue at all. I nearly turned round and went home, but I kept
calm. The 3, attached,wall cabinets were hanging off, held by 1 screw in
the middle. All the other screws were pulled out. Which wasnt a surprise
when No.6 2" long screws had been used to secure them.
I drilled some new holes, and secured them with big door frame fixings.

Then the 'boxing in pipes' was actually box in the water meter, 2 stop
cocks, and the pipe up to worktop level. Luckily, I had got a hint that
they werent clued up when I got the call, so I had filled my van with
odd bits of wood I had in my garage.
Started on that, then kept being interrupted. "Can I borrow your drill
as ours has gone flat". Will you come and have a look at this, as we
cant do it etc etc.

I got to just about finish the box, when the landlord came in. He
started moaning that the box was to go to the ceiling. It was at this
point that I nearly went mad. Luckily he saw sense, and let me carry on
to the height that looked best.

Then they said, could I have a look at various electric appliances. the
PIR light I posted about, where the live was connected to the earth, and
they knew it, as the woman had got a shock from it.
Then they needed to borrow more kit. And screws.And a brush for sweeping
up their mess. It went on and on.
I did get the option of taking home the 2 pieces of 2x1 pine, 3 feet
long, and the piece of hardboard, 1 feet by 3 feet. this is the wood
which he had brought along to make a box for the piping. I didnt accept!

They had supposedly paid a sparkie to go through the house to rewire.
There were no new wires downstairs, but a new consumer unit was in
place, but poorly laid out - space for 10+ MCB, but only 5 in use.

The kitchen had all of its old tiles pulled off, but then only half of
it had been retiled. The rest of it had been emulsioned on top of all
the old bits of tile cement, and craters pulled out by the tiles. The
new tiles were not in line, so could be thought of as a slight zig-zag
effect. Rough is too nice a word for this standard of work.
2 pieces of skirting had been put in.No mitre at the join, so the corner
of one stuck right out.
It went on throughout the house, with bodges and poor work everywhere.
I got paid my pittance, but I felt sick at having to work in such a crap
environment.

The upside of it is though, the landlord saw what I had done, was
obviously pleased with it, took me aside, and asked for my number. I'm
going back there to fit a shower on Thursday.

It make me wonder what I am doing wrong, as these 2 numpties had
obviously made a living 'doing up' this house for the last 2 months,
doing some really bad work, yet I do a bloody good job, and struggle for
work.

Mind, if the chap I spoke to this PM gets back to me, as he said he
would, things may be a bit better - he says they only do the best, and
do not cut corners - the house I met him at was being handed over
tomorrow, and he was just doing the finishing touches, ready for the
carpet fitters tomorrow.

Alan.
--
To reply by e-mail, change the ' + ' to 'plus'.

A.Lee coughed up some electrons that declared:

snip
I gave a price today, - cut down 3 kitchen worktops to fit, join up 1,
and cut the kickboards to size. I thought 3 - 4 hours, so £50. the bloke
thought that was too much. FFS, he'd moan if I didnt cut them square,
yet the moaning bugger didnt want to pay.

The chap work got in to do some major work summed it up as "no b*gger wants
to pay". He's good, but down a few tens of grand on his cashflow.



They had supposedly paid a sparkie to go through the house to rewire.
There were no new wires downstairs, but a new consumer unit was in
place, but poorly laid out - space for 10+ MCB, but only 5 in use.

*cough*


The kitchen had all of its old tiles pulled off, but then only half of
it had been retiled. The rest of it had been emulsioned on top of all
the old bits of tile cement, and craters pulled out by the tiles. The
new tiles were not in line, so could be thought of as a slight zig-zag
effect. Rough is too nice a word for this standard of work.
2 pieces of skirting had been put in.No mitre at the join, so the corner
of one stuck right out.
It went on throughout the house, with bodges and poor work everywhere.
I got paid my pittance, but I felt sick at having to work in such a crap
environment.

The upside of it is though, the landlord saw what I had done, was
obviously pleased with it, took me aside, and asked for my number. I'm
going back there to fit a shower on Thursday.

Sounds promising. Does the landlord have any other properties? Sounds like
you could win some potential future repeat custom too; landlords always
need stuff doing from time to time.

I helped our landlord arrange a tiler to refit our shower cubicle when it
died of multiple leaks. I was totally impressed by the chap's work and his
manner and his tidiness during and after each day on the job.. The chap
wasn't cheap, but he wasn't outlandish either. Planning to buy a house in
the near future, so if I need any (ie too hard/lack of time/whatever)
bathroom work done, the tradesman in question will automatically get the
job. Plus my recommendation got him another job a few months after our
shower job.

Good luck.

Cheers

Tim

Richard wrote:
Hi, I'm looking for a bit of advice on a choice of construction
technique for a drive I want to put in. I currently have a rear access
to my property consisting of an passageway approx 2.5-3m wide and 30m
long. However it has a right angle turn half way along with a
rectangle about 3x3.5m for turning - very tight I know, but I am happy
that I can get a smart car round there easily, and that's all I want
it for - besides everyday foot/bike/pram traffic. The path is
currently mud/grass, and that drags all the muck around onto my new
patio hence the need for a change. Also if I did get a smart car this
would soon churn this up, especially as it gets very muddy in the wet.

I'm trying to determine the cheapest option which will meet my
criteria, and need to work out approx costs for both a DIY and a
contractor solution, as I'm not sure if I'll have the time myself for
this particular job. The actual area, if I allow a 2m wide strip and a
rectangle of 3x3.5m2 to turn on will be about 66m2.

I thought the pasageway was 2.5 - 3m in width?
If you just do the centre 2m by 30m long, this makes 60m2...add on your
10.5m2 turning area and we have almost 71m2, but leaving a gap all along the
path, IE cutting it down to 2m wide is cutting corners, particularly as your
wheels will always be at the outer edge.


My thoughts turn to a type 1 base (not sure how deep yet - any ideas)

150mm of mot (crush and run, mechanically compacted)

with chippings (again ideas for which grade welcomed) on top and one
of those plastic honeycombs over the type 1 in the turning area to
prevent movement of chippings over time. Although I'm not convinced by
the idea,

me neither.

I've been told to just use weedkiller to stop vegatation
growing through and looking messy - I was swaying towards a
landscaping sheet, although for this area that could prove pricy?


and useless because weds don't come from underneath - they come from above,
that is, seeds blow or are dropped by birds into the gaps and they grow
downwards, weedkiller is the *only* option.

However, if there is a different option which would be cheaper, I'd be
glad to know about it. I really need to keep the costs down on this
one, so if any of you guys have an idea of ballpark figures for this
type of job (all in for both DIY and contractor approaches) I'd be
grateful to know. Also, any advice on best type of contractor for this
type of job, so I can look on tinternet and yellow pages?

For block paving or flags, you are looking around £50 - £60 per square
metre, so £4000 should/may cover it for a contractor.

To do it yourself:

70m2 of blocks = £800
1 large skip = £150
10 tonne of MOT = £300
4 tonne of sand = £120
2 bags of finishing sand = £15
Cutter hire = £15
Whacker hire £25
Sundries £25

About £1750 if you DIY...you may save a hundred or two if you use flags, but
add on a few extra days for labour.

A.Lee wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:


You are far too cheap mate. Put your prices up.

I could if I had any work, but it has been dead since Christmas.
Things are picking up for this week, as I put an ad in the local paper
last week, and have got a few contacts through that - 1 looks
promising, a property developer who I met this afternoon at one of
his houses, a decent chap who was doing good quality work.

An ad in the local rag isn't going to crack it mate. I'm always busy
because I never stop marketing.

It's what the advertising agencys call 'a multi channel marketing strategy'.

IOW I get work from two local free magazines (fairly cheap to advertise in),
a couple of parish magazines (very cheap), my heavily signwritten van,
fridge magnet business cards, the logo'ed overalls, the web site, mailshots,
cards left with suppliers, previous customers, reccommendations, letting
agents, offices on the industrial estate (from mail shots), people who work
at B&Q & Wickes who I've given cards to, estate agents who pass on my
details, all sorts.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

In message , The
Medway Handyman writes
I'm always busy
because I never stop marketing.

It's what the advertising agencys call 'a multi channel marketing strategy'.

IOW I get work from two local free magazines (fairly cheap to advertise in),
a couple of parish magazines (very cheap), my heavily signwritten van,
fridge magnet business cards, the logo'ed overalls, the web site, mailshots,
cards left with suppliers, previous customers, reccommendations, letting
agents, offices on the industrial estate (from mail shots), people who work
at B&Q & Wickes who I've given cards to, estate agents who pass on my
details, all sorts.

....and of course, your sig ;-)

--
Si

Si wrote:
In message , The
Medway Handyman writes
I'm always busy
because I never stop marketing.

It's what the advertising agencys call 'a multi channel marketing
strategy'. IOW I get work from two local free magazines (fairly cheap to
advertise in), a couple of parish magazines (very cheap), my heavily
signwritten van, fridge magnet business cards, the logo'ed overalls,
the web site, mailshots, cards left with suppliers, previous
customers, reccommendations, letting agents, offices on the
industrial estate (from mail shots), people who work at B&Q & Wickes
who I've given cards to, estate agents who pass on my details, all
sorts.
...and of course, your sig ;-)

Don't you start :-)

Looks around nervously to see if Mr F is watching


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message
.uk...
A.Lee wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:


You are far too cheap mate. Put your prices up.

I could if I had any work, but it has been dead since Christmas.
Things are picking up for this week, as I put an ad in the local paper
last week, and have got a few contacts through that - 1 looks
promising, a property developer who I met this afternoon at one of
his houses, a decent chap who was doing good quality work.

An ad in the local rag isn't going to crack it mate. I'm always busy
because I never stop marketing.

It's what the advertising agencys call 'a multi channel marketing
strategy'.

IOW I get work from two local free magazines (fairly cheap to advertise
in), a couple of parish magazines (very cheap), my heavily signwritten
van, fridge magnet business cards, the logo'ed overalls, the web site,
mailshots, cards left with suppliers, previous customers,
reccommendations, letting agents, offices on the industrial estate (from
mail shots), people who work at B&Q & Wickes who I've given cards to,
estate agents who pass on my details, all sorts.


I once got myself a fill rewire job thanks to a woman who ran into the back
of my van. Swap details my arse, give them a card.

Adam