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jon jon is offline
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Default Router breakout

I'm aware that a piece of wood (I forget its name) can be used to
prevent the break out as a router bit exists its cut from ruining the
work piece. I have a "breakfast bar" that needs finishing using a
router. This has both edges finished as a curve making the use of a
sacrificial piece of wood difficult/impossible. Anyone know if routing a
worktop like this will cause problems or does chipboard behave
differently anyway?

Thanks,
Jon...
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Default Router breakout

On 2007-12-20 19:06:42 +0000, jon said:

I'm aware that a piece of wood (I forget its name) can be used to
prevent the break out as a router bit exists its cut from ruining the
work piece.


Sacrificial board or backer board are two of the names for this.



I have a "breakfast bar" that needs finishing using a
router. This has both edges finished as a curve making the use of a
sacrificial piece of wood difficult/impossible. Anyone know if routing a
worktop like this will cause problems or does chipboard behave
differently anyway?

Thanks,
Jon...


It does somewhat. The main thing is to take smallish cuts and then
for the last one no more than 1-2mm

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Default Router breakout

jon wrote:
I'm aware that a piece of wood (I forget its name) can be used to
prevent the break out as a router bit exists its cut from ruining the
work piece. I have a "breakfast bar" that needs finishing using a
router. This has both edges finished as a curve making the use of a
sacrificial piece of wood difficult/impossible. Anyone know if routing a
worktop like this will cause problems or does chipboard behave
differently anyway?

Thanks,
Jon...

Are you talking about two profiled edges meeting at a corner with the
others unprofiles eg two adjacent edges against a wall and the other two
not?
If so, there are two ways I know
1 run the router edge 1 towards the profiled corner using scrap to
prevent breakout. profile edge 2 away from the corner and running into a
second scrap piece.
or
2 cut a radius on the corner to be profiled about an inch or more
radius. then run the router along edge 1 , round the radius and along
edge 2 and end in the scrap as method 1.

Bob

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Default Router breakout

jon wrote:
I'm aware that a piece of wood (I forget its name) can be used to
prevent the break out as a router bit exists its cut from ruining the
work piece. I have a "breakfast bar" that needs finishing using a
router. This has both edges finished as a curve making the use of a
sacrificial piece of wood difficult/impossible. Anyone know if routing a
worktop like this will cause problems or does chipboard behave
differently anyway?

Thanks,
Jon...


If you're trying to route a curved end on a postformed double-edged
laminate worktop you need to work from each edge towards the centre, for
one half the worktop needs to be upside down so that the cutter is
working on the correct direction.

Dave
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crb crb is offline
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Default Router breakout

On 20 Dec, 20:32, NoSpam wrote:

If you're trying to route a curved end on a postformed double-edged
laminate worktop you need to work from each edge towards the centre, for
one half the worktop needs to be upside down so that the cutter is
working on the correct direction.


This is precisely the advice given by Trend when I asked them last
week.

CRB


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Default Router breakout

On 20 Dec, 22:23, crb wrote:
On 20 Dec, 20:32, NoSpam wrote:

This is precisely the advice given by Trend when I asked them last
week.

CRB



Just to add to my input - this method should be used whether the end
is to have a curved profile or is cut straight across from one post
formed edge to the other.
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Default Router breakout

jon wrote:
I'm aware that a piece of wood (I forget its name) can be used to
prevent the break out as a router bit exists its cut from ruining the
work piece.


Sacrificial strip. Its purpose is to prevent breakout when routing across
the grain on natural timber.

I have a "breakfast bar" that needs finishing using a
router. This has both edges finished as a curve making the use of a
sacrificial piece of wood difficult/impossible.


Whats it made of? And in which plane is the curve? Do you mean both
corners are a radius?

Why does it need finishing with a router specifically?

Anyone know if
routing a worktop like this will cause problems or does chipboard
behave differently anyway?


Chipboard doesn't have a 'grain' so it machines the same way in any
direction. There is no grain to break out.



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Default Router breakout

NoSpam wrote:
jon wrote:
I'm aware that a piece of wood (I forget its name) can be used to
prevent the break out as a router bit exists its cut from ruining the
work piece. I have a "breakfast bar" that needs finishing using a
router. This has both edges finished as a curve making the use of a
sacrificial piece of wood difficult/impossible. Anyone know if routing a
worktop like this will cause problems or does chipboard behave
differently anyway?

Thanks,
Jon...


If you're trying to route a curved end on a postformed double-edged
laminate worktop you need to work from each edge towards the centre, for
one half the worktop needs to be upside down so that the cutter is
working on the correct direction.

Dave


This is exactly my situation so thanks for the advice...
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