Does anyone know if it's ok to fit electrical sockets in kitchen cupboards,
say on the chipboard section at the back at the top, for plugging in
fridges, washing machines etc ? and could I fit my cooker switch and socket
there also?

alan wrote:

Does anyone know if it's ok to fit electrical sockets in kitchen cupboards,
say on the chipboard section at the back at the top, for plugging in
fridges, washing machines etc ? and could I fit my cooker switch and socket
there also?

I can't see a problem I've done it my kitchen. Isolators for hob, oven and fan
hood are in the cupboard above the built in oven and all my heating controls
are in a wall cupboard above the boiler which is built inside the carcase of a
base unit (suitably ventilated and lined with fire resistant insulation.

Go for it!

Good luck

Bob

In uk.d-i-y, Bob Minchin wrote:
alan wrote:

Does anyone know if it's ok to fit electrical sockets in kitchen cupboards,
say on the chipboard section at the back at the top, for plugging in
fridges, washing machines etc ? and could I fit my cooker switch and socket
there also?

Sockets is fine. Cooker switch less so, as it's supposed to be "accessible"
- though there's disagreement on whether the reason is for emergency
disconnection, which would mean it should for sure be on the wall, and within
the stated 2m of the cooker/hob, or just for isolation for maintenance (in
which case the 2m requirement still holds, but inside a cupboard might be
acceptable). P'raps someone with the Regs to hand cares to give chapter
and verse; me, I'd strongly prefer to have the cooker isolator on the wall
rather than hidden away.

HTH, Stefek

alan wrote in message ...
Does anyone know if it's ok to fit electrical sockets in kitchen cupboards,
say on the chipboard section at the back at the top, for plugging in
fridges, washing machines etc ? and could I fit my cooker switch and socket
there also?

Hi Alan,

I would strongly discourage it, as these are all fixed appliances. In
my mind it falls under "poor practice". Certainly the cooker isolator
switch should be accessible.
The actual oven & hob cable outlets can be under the bench.
For washing machines etc. the best (and commonly used arrangement) is
a socket under the work top, controlled via a high level switch above
the work top - eg. Fused spur-switch.

If you're really keen and want to avoid lots of switches on show, you
can get grid switches that could fit upto 8 in a block to control all
the kitchen appliances from one point, but I appreciate you're into
quite a wiring job then.

The easier it is to isolate things the better - in my cousin's house
they can't defrost the (built in) freezer without turning the ring
main off.

I hope this helps,
John