Hello All

Does anybody have any ideas why the pilot light on my profile 50e
never goes out - even if I switch off the electric?

My guess is the pilot gas valve is either sticking or worn out. The
boiler fires up as normal, with both solenoids click and clunking.
There are no ignition clicks though - but I guess thats because the
pilot flame has already been detected.

Is there anything I can do to fix the problem? I'm pretty capable and
have fixed other parts of the boiler but I don't want to have to mess
with the gas supply for obvious reasons!

Thanks
Clive

"stompo" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hello All

Does anybody have any ideas why the pilot light on my profile 50e
never goes out - even if I switch off the electric?

My guess is the pilot gas valve is either sticking or worn out. The
boiler fires up as normal, with both solenoids click and clunking.
There are no ignition clicks though - but I guess thats because the
pilot flame has already been detected.

Is there anything I can do to fix the problem? I'm pretty capable and
have fixed other parts of the boiler but I don't want to have to mess
with the gas supply for obvious reasons!

Thanks
Clive


its normal !

if you turn the gas off and let the thermo-valve cool down and switch the
gas on the pilot ligh will need to be re-lit

On Wed, 22 Aug 2007 08:03:14 -0700, stompo wrote:

Hello All

Does anybody have any ideas why the pilot light on my profile 50e
never goes out - even if I switch off the electric?

My guess is the pilot gas valve is either sticking or worn out. The
boiler fires up as normal, with both solenoids click and clunking.
There are no ignition clicks though - but I guess thats because the
pilot flame has already been detected.

Is there anything I can do to fix the problem? I'm pretty capable and
have fixed other parts of the boiler but I don't want to have to mess
with the gas supply for obvious reasons!

Thanks
Clive

Looks like it must be a sticking gas valve.
Turn off the gas and get the gas valve replaced.



--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html
Choosing a Boiler FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html

In message , NikV
writes

"stompo" wrote in message
roups.com...
Hello All

Does anybody have any ideas why the pilot light on my profile 50e
never goes out - even if I switch off the electric?

My guess is the pilot gas valve is either sticking or worn out. The
boiler fires up as normal, with both solenoids click and clunking.
There are no ignition clicks though - but I guess thats because the
pilot flame has already been detected.

Is there anything I can do to fix the problem? I'm pretty capable and
have fixed other parts of the boiler but I don't want to have to mess
with the gas supply for obvious reasons!

Thanks
Clive


its normal !

if you turn the gas off and let the thermo-valve cool down and switch the
gas on the pilot ligh will need to be re-lit

Is it **** normal, don't talk ********

The gas valve is letting by for some reason and needs replacing

If the volts are removed from the pilot valve solenoid, it should close
and no gas should pass through


--
geoff

In article ,
Ed Sirett writes:
On Wed, 22 Aug 2007 08:03:14 -0700, stompo wrote:

Hello All

Does anybody have any ideas why the pilot light on my profile 50e
never goes out - even if I switch off the electric?

My guess is the pilot gas valve is either sticking or worn out. The
boiler fires up as normal, with both solenoids click and clunking.
There are no ignition clicks though - but I guess thats because the
pilot flame has already been detected.

Is there anything I can do to fix the problem? I'm pretty capable and
have fixed other parts of the boiler but I don't want to have to mess
with the gas supply for obvious reasons!

Looks like it must be a sticking gas valve.
Turn off the gas and get the gas valve replaced.

I'm surprised it will go through the ignition sequence.
I thought most boilers checked there was no pilot flame
sense electrode conduction before starting the ignition
sequence, to ensure the ignition sense electrode is not
shorted out by dirt rather than sensing ignition. Maybe
the Profile is too old for that check.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , NikV
writes

"stompo" wrote in message
groups.com...
Hello All

Does anybody have any ideas why the pilot light on my profile 50e
never goes out - even if I switch off the electric?

My guess is the pilot gas valve is either sticking or worn out. The
boiler fires up as normal, with both solenoids click and clunking.
There are no ignition clicks though - but I guess thats because the
pilot flame has already been detected.

Is there anything I can do to fix the problem? I'm pretty capable and
have fixed other parts of the boiler but I don't want to have to mess
with the gas supply for obvious reasons!

Thanks
Clive


its normal !

if you turn the gas off and let the thermo-valve cool down and switch the
gas on the pilot ligh will need to be re-lit

Is it **** normal, don't talk ********

The gas valve is letting by for some reason and needs replacing

If the volts are removed from the pilot valve solenoid, it should close
and no gas should pass through


--
geoff

on my potterton the boiler can stay unplugged and the pilot lght stays on -
there is a thermo based valve wich lets gas through for the pilot light -
this is the third central heating boiler (in 3/4 houses) that works this way
the other had an on demand piezo ignition, if the gas supply is cut the
valve closes and you have to do the 'turn knob ignite woth piezo and hold
for 30 seconds to ensure the pilot valve stays open - I can probably find
the diagram from the GCSE physics book which sjows the general principle
......

"NikV" wrote in message
...

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , NikV
writes

"stompo" wrote in message
egroups.com...
Hello All

Does anybody have any ideas why the pilot light on my profile 50e
never goes out - even if I switch off the electric?

My guess is the pilot gas valve is either sticking or worn out. The
boiler fires up as normal, with both solenoids click and clunking.
There are no ignition clicks though - but I guess thats because the
pilot flame has already been detected.

Is there anything I can do to fix the problem? I'm pretty capable and
have fixed other parts of the boiler but I don't want to have to mess
with the gas supply for obvious reasons!

Thanks
Clive


its normal !

if you turn the gas off and let the thermo-valve cool down and switch the
gas on the pilot ligh will need to be re-lit

Is it **** normal, don't talk ********

The gas valve is letting by for some reason and needs replacing

If the volts are removed from the pilot valve solenoid, it should close
and no gas should pass through


--
geoff

on my potterton the boiler can stay unplugged and the pilot lght stays
on - there is a thermo based valve wich lets gas through for the pilot
light - this is the third central heating boiler (in 3/4 houses) that
works this way the other had an on demand piezo ignition, if the gas
supply is cut the valve closes and you have to do the 'turn knob ignite
woth piezo and hold for 30 seconds to ensure the pilot valve stays open -
I can probably find the diagram from the GCSE physics book which sjows the
general principle .....

btw its sometinmes called the thermocoupler (not thermocouple) or pilot
latch assembly - like here
http://www.applianceaid.com/dryer_pilot.html

"NikV" wrote in message
...

"NikV" wrote in message
...

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , NikV
writes

"stompo" wrote in message
legroups.com...
Hello All

Does anybody have any ideas why the pilot light on my profile 50e
never goes out - even if I switch off the electric?

My guess is the pilot gas valve is either sticking or worn out. The
boiler fires up as normal, with both solenoids click and clunking.
There are no ignition clicks though - but I guess thats because the
pilot flame has already been detected.

Is there anything I can do to fix the problem? I'm pretty capable and
have fixed other parts of the boiler but I don't want to have to mess
with the gas supply for obvious reasons!

Thanks
Clive


its normal !

if you turn the gas off and let the thermo-valve cool down and switch
the
gas on the pilot ligh will need to be re-lit

Is it **** normal, don't talk ********

The gas valve is letting by for some reason and needs replacing

If the volts are removed from the pilot valve solenoid, it should close
and no gas should pass through


--
geoff

on my potterton the boiler can stay unplugged and the pilot lght stays
on - there is a thermo based valve wich lets gas through for the pilot
light - this is the third central heating boiler (in 3/4 houses) that
works this way the other had an on demand piezo ignition, if the gas
supply is cut the valve closes and you have to do the 'turn knob ignite
woth piezo and hold for 30 seconds to ensure the pilot valve stays open -
I can probably find the diagram from the GCSE physics book which sjows
the general principle .....

btw its sometinmes called the thermocoupler (not thermocouple) or pilot
latch assembly - like here
http://www.applianceaid.com/dryer_pilot.html


or wikipedia

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pilot_light

number 3 on the list

In message , NikV
writes

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , NikV
writes

"stompo" wrote in message
egroups.com...
Hello All

Does anybody have any ideas why the pilot light on my profile 50e
never goes out - even if I switch off the electric?

My guess is the pilot gas valve is either sticking or worn out. The
boiler fires up as normal, with both solenoids click and clunking.
There are no ignition clicks though - but I guess thats because the
pilot flame has already been detected.

Is there anything I can do to fix the problem? I'm pretty capable and
have fixed other parts of the boiler but I don't want to have to mess
with the gas supply for obvious reasons!

Thanks
Clive


its normal !

if you turn the gas off and let the thermo-valve cool down and switch the
gas on the pilot ligh will need to be re-lit

Is it **** normal, don't talk ********

The gas valve is letting by for some reason and needs replacing

If the volts are removed from the pilot valve solenoid, it should close
and no gas should pass through


--
geoff

on my potterton the boiler can stay unplugged and the pilot lght stays on -

Yes, but your antiquated POS is not a Profile, is it ?

The profile has electronic ignition, it goes through an ignition
sequence and the pilot valve is only operated once the air pressure
switch has established that the fan is generating a sufficient pressure
differential, and the pcb senses that pilot flame before operating the
main gas solenoid

what you wrote was wrong and potentially dangerous information



--
geoff

In message , NikV
writes



its normal !

if you turn the gas off and let the thermo-valve cool down and switch
the
gas on the pilot ligh will need to be re-lit

Is it **** normal, don't talk ********

The gas valve is letting by for some reason and needs replacing

If the volts are removed from the pilot valve solenoid, it should close
and no gas should pass through


--
geoff

on my potterton the boiler can stay unplugged and the pilot lght stays
on - there is a thermo based valve wich lets gas through for the pilot
light - this is the third central heating boiler (in 3/4 houses) that
works this way the other had an on demand piezo ignition, if the gas
supply is cut the valve closes and you have to do the 'turn knob ignite
woth piezo and hold for 30 seconds to ensure the pilot valve stays open -
I can probably find the diagram from the GCSE physics book which sjows
the general principle .....

btw its sometinmes called the thermocoupler (not thermocouple) or pilot
latch assembly - like here
http://www.applianceaid.com/dryer_pilot.html


or wikipedia

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pilot_light

number 3 on the list

Oh do **** off

--
geoff

In message , Andrew Gabriel
writes
In article ,
Ed Sirett writes:
On Wed, 22 Aug 2007 08:03:14 -0700, stompo wrote:

Hello All

Does anybody have any ideas why the pilot light on my profile 50e
never goes out - even if I switch off the electric?

My guess is the pilot gas valve is either sticking or worn out. The
boiler fires up as normal, with both solenoids click and clunking.
There are no ignition clicks though - but I guess thats because the
pilot flame has already been detected.

Is there anything I can do to fix the problem? I'm pretty capable and
have fixed other parts of the boiler but I don't want to have to mess
with the gas supply for obvious reasons!

Looks like it must be a sticking gas valve.
Turn off the gas and get the gas valve replaced.

I'm surprised it will go through the ignition sequence.
I thought most boilers checked there was no pilot flame
sense electrode conduction before starting the ignition
sequence, to ensure the ignition sense electrode is not
shorted out by dirt rather than sensing ignition. Maybe
the Profile is too old for that check.

And, if anyone should know the answer to that one, its me isn't it

I have a feeling you're right, I'll check tomorrow

--
geoff

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , NikV
writes



its normal !

if you turn the gas off and let the thermo-valve cool down and switch
the
gas on the pilot ligh will need to be re-lit

Is it **** normal, don't talk ********

The gas valve is letting by for some reason and needs replacing

If the volts are removed from the pilot valve solenoid, it should
close
and no gas should pass through


--
geoff

on my potterton the boiler can stay unplugged and the pilot lght stays
on - there is a thermo based valve wich lets gas through for the pilot
light - this is the third central heating boiler (in 3/4 houses) that
works this way the other had an on demand piezo ignition, if the gas
supply is cut the valve closes and you have to do the 'turn knob ignite
woth piezo and hold for 30 seconds to ensure the pilot valve stays
open -
I can probably find the diagram from the GCSE physics book which sjows
the general principle .....

btw its sometinmes called the thermocoupler (not thermocouple) or pilot
latch assembly - like here
http://www.applianceaid.com/dryer_pilot.html


or wikipedia

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pilot_light

number 3 on the list

Oh do **** off

--
geoff


what an intellect wow .....

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , NikV
writes

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , NikV
writes

"stompo" wrote in message
legroups.com...
Hello All

Does anybody have any ideas why the pilot light on my profile 50e
never goes out - even if I switch off the electric?

My guess is the pilot gas valve is either sticking or worn out. The
boiler fires up as normal, with both solenoids click and clunking.
There are no ignition clicks though - but I guess thats because the
pilot flame has already been detected.

Is there anything I can do to fix the problem? I'm pretty capable and
have fixed other parts of the boiler but I don't want to have to mess
with the gas supply for obvious reasons!

Thanks
Clive


its normal !

if you turn the gas off and let the thermo-valve cool down and switch
the
gas on the pilot ligh will need to be re-lit

Is it **** normal, don't talk ********

The gas valve is letting by for some reason and needs replacing

If the volts are removed from the pilot valve solenoid, it should close
and no gas should pass through


--
geoff

on my potterton the boiler can stay unplugged and the pilot lght stays
on -

Yes, but your antiquated POS is not a Profile, is it ?

The profile has electronic ignition, it goes through an ignition sequence
and the pilot valve is only operated once the air pressure switch has
established that the fan is generating a sufficient pressure differential,
and the pcb senses that pilot flame before operating the main gas solenoid

what you wrote was wrong and potentially dangerous information

now that clear and lucid explanation wasn't too difficult was it - why did
we have all the f**k off , b*ll*cks when that would have done nicely ??

In message , NikV
writes

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , NikV
writes



its normal !

if you turn the gas off and let the thermo-valve cool down and switch
the
gas on the pilot ligh will need to be re-lit

Is it **** normal, don't talk ********

The gas valve is letting by for some reason and needs replacing

If the volts are removed from the pilot valve solenoid, it should
close
and no gas should pass through


--
geoff

on my potterton the boiler can stay unplugged and the pilot lght stays
on - there is a thermo based valve wich lets gas through for the pilot
light - this is the third central heating boiler (in 3/4 houses) that
works this way the other had an on demand piezo ignition, if the gas
supply is cut the valve closes and you have to do the 'turn knob ignite
woth piezo and hold for 30 seconds to ensure the pilot valve stays
open -
I can probably find the diagram from the GCSE physics book which sjows
the general principle .....

btw its sometinmes called the thermocoupler (not thermocouple) or pilot
latch assembly - like here
http://www.applianceaid.com/dryer_pilot.html


or wikipedia

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pilot_light

number 3 on the list

Oh do **** off

--
geoff


what an intellect wow .....

No, it's sound advice to a clueless ****wit

--
geoff

In message , NikV
writes

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , NikV
writes

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , NikV
writes

"stompo" wrote in message
glegroups.com...
Hello All

Does anybody have any ideas why the pilot light on my profile 50e
never goes out - even if I switch off the electric?

My guess is the pilot gas valve is either sticking or worn out. The
boiler fires up as normal, with both solenoids click and clunking.
There are no ignition clicks though - but I guess thats because the
pilot flame has already been detected.

Is there anything I can do to fix the problem? I'm pretty capable and
have fixed other parts of the boiler but I don't want to have to mess
with the gas supply for obvious reasons!

Thanks
Clive


its normal !

if you turn the gas off and let the thermo-valve cool down and switch
the
gas on the pilot ligh will need to be re-lit

Is it **** normal, don't talk ********

The gas valve is letting by for some reason and needs replacing

If the volts are removed from the pilot valve solenoid, it should close
and no gas should pass through


--
geoff

on my potterton the boiler can stay unplugged and the pilot lght stays
on -

Yes, but your antiquated POS is not a Profile, is it ?

The profile has electronic ignition, it goes through an ignition sequence
and the pilot valve is only operated once the air pressure switch has
established that the fan is generating a sufficient pressure differential,
and the pcb senses that pilot flame before operating the main gas solenoid

what you wrote was wrong and potentially dangerous information

now that clear and lucid explanation wasn't too difficult was it - why did
we have all the f**k off , b*ll*cks when that would have done nicely ??


Because I enjoy it,

m'kay ?

--
geoff

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , NikV
writes

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , NikV
writes

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , NikV
writes

"stompo" wrote in message
oglegroups.com...
Hello All

Does anybody have any ideas why the pilot light on my profile 50e
never goes out - even if I switch off the electric?

My guess is the pilot gas valve is either sticking or worn out. The
boiler fires up as normal, with both solenoids click and clunking.
There are no ignition clicks though - but I guess thats because the
pilot flame has already been detected.

Is there anything I can do to fix the problem? I'm pretty capable
and
have fixed other parts of the boiler but I don't want to have to
mess
with the gas supply for obvious reasons!

Thanks
Clive


its normal !

if you turn the gas off and let the thermo-valve cool down and switch
the
gas on the pilot ligh will need to be re-lit

Is it **** normal, don't talk ********

The gas valve is letting by for some reason and needs replacing

If the volts are removed from the pilot valve solenoid, it should
close
and no gas should pass through


--
geoff

on my potterton the boiler can stay unplugged and the pilot lght stays
on -

Yes, but your antiquated POS is not a Profile, is it ?

The profile has electronic ignition, it goes through an ignition
sequence
and the pilot valve is only operated once the air pressure switch has
established that the fan is generating a sufficient pressure
differential,
and the pcb senses that pilot flame before operating the main gas
solenoid

what you wrote was wrong and potentially dangerous information

now that clear and lucid explanation wasn't too difficult was it - why did
we have all the f**k off , b*ll*cks when that would have done nicely ??


Because I enjoy it,

m'kay ?

and you called me the clueless f*ckwit, think you've demonstrated that
adequately now :-)

In message , NikV
writes

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , NikV
writes

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , NikV
writes

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , NikV
writes

"stompo" wrote in message
ooglegroups.com...
Hello All

Does anybody have any ideas why the pilot light on my profile 50e
never goes out - even if I switch off the electric?

My guess is the pilot gas valve is either sticking or worn out. The
boiler fires up as normal, with both solenoids click and clunking.
There are no ignition clicks though - but I guess thats because the
pilot flame has already been detected.

Is there anything I can do to fix the problem? I'm pretty capable
and
have fixed other parts of the boiler but I don't want to have to
mess
with the gas supply for obvious reasons!

Thanks
Clive


its normal !

if you turn the gas off and let the thermo-valve cool down and switch
the
gas on the pilot ligh will need to be re-lit

Is it **** normal, don't talk ********

The gas valve is letting by for some reason and needs replacing

If the volts are removed from the pilot valve solenoid, it should
close
and no gas should pass through


--
geoff

on my potterton the boiler can stay unplugged and the pilot lght stays
on -

Yes, but your antiquated POS is not a Profile, is it ?

The profile has electronic ignition, it goes through an ignition
sequence
and the pilot valve is only operated once the air pressure switch has
established that the fan is generating a sufficient pressure
differential,
and the pcb senses that pilot flame before operating the main gas
solenoid

what you wrote was wrong and potentially dangerous information

now that clear and lucid explanation wasn't too difficult was it - why did
we have all the f**k off , b*ll*cks when that would have done nicely ??


Because I enjoy it,

m'kay ?

and you called me the clueless f*ckwit, think you've demonstrated that
adequately now :-)

That's because you are - and then you pushed it to prove it beyond doubt

--
geoff

"raden" wrote in message
...
and you called me the clueless f*ckwit, think you've demonstrated that
adequately now :-)

That's because you are - and then you pushed it to prove it beyond doubt

amazing how comunicative you can be with resorting to abuse - it must be
good for you :-)

On Wed, 22 Aug 2007 20:25:17 +0100, NikV wrote:

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , NikV
writes

"stompo" wrote in message
egroups.com...
Hello All

Does anybody have any ideas why the pilot light on my profile 50e
never goes out - even if I switch off the electric?

My guess is the pilot gas valve is either sticking or worn out. The
boiler fires up as normal, with both solenoids click and clunking.
There are no ignition clicks though - but I guess thats because the
pilot flame has already been detected.

Is there anything I can do to fix the problem? I'm pretty capable and
have fixed other parts of the boiler but I don't want to have to mess
with the gas supply for obvious reasons!

Thanks
Clive


its normal !

if you turn the gas off and let the thermo-valve cool down and switch the
gas on the pilot ligh will need to be re-lit

Is it **** normal, don't talk ********

The gas valve is letting by for some reason and needs replacing

If the volts are removed from the pilot valve solenoid, it should close
and no gas should pass through


--
geoff

on my potterton the boiler can stay unplugged and the pilot lght stays on -
there is a thermo based valve wich lets gas through for the pilot light -
this is the third central heating boiler (in 3/4 houses) that works this way
the other had an on demand piezo ignition, if the gas supply is cut the
valve closes and you have to do the 'turn knob ignite woth piezo and hold
for 30 seconds to ensure the pilot valve stays open - I can probably find
the diagram from the GCSE physics book which sjows the general principle
.....

It might come as a surprise to you that Potterton make and have made a
large range of boilers. Most of which have not used permanent pilot lights
and themoelectric valves for the last 15 years.


--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html
Choosing a Boiler FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html

In message , NikV
writes

"raden" wrote in message
...
and you called me the clueless f*ckwit, think you've demonstrated that
adequately now :-)

That's because you are - and then you pushed it to prove it beyond doubt

amazing how comunicative you can be with resorting to abuse - it must be
good for you :-)

When someone tells someone who has what amounts to a gas leak that it's
normal ? - clueless ****wit about sums you up


--
geoff

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , NikV
writes

"raden" wrote in message
...
and you called me the clueless f*ckwit, think you've demonstrated that
adequately now :-)

That's because you are - and then you pushed it to prove it beyond doubt

amazing how comunicative you can be with resorting to abuse - it must be
good for you :-)

When someone tells someone who has what amounts to a gas leak that it's
normal ? - clueless ****wit about sums you up

ah poor dear, was it another difficult day - back to the abuse again (oh I
remember its because you can) - I wonder what else you do 'because you can')
perhaps later you'll feel more mellow :-)

quite surpising though that the more technology seems to provide a fail
dangerous leak - probably the same design team that produced pcb which
neeeding replacing so often ....

On 23 Aug, 19:39, "NikV" wrote:
"raden" wrote in message

...



In message , NikV
writes

"raden" wrote in message
...
and you called me the clueless f*ckwit, think you've demonstrated that
adequately now :-)

That's because you are - and then you pushed it to prove it beyond doubt

amazing how comunicative you can be with resorting to abuse - it must be
good for you :-)

When someone tells someone who has what amounts to a gas leak that it's
normal ? - clueless ****wit about sums you up

ah poor dear, was it another difficult day - back to the abuse again (oh I
remember its because you can) - I wonder what else you do 'because you can')
perhaps later you'll feel more mellow :-)

quite surpising though that the more technology seems to provide a fail
dangerous leak - probably the same design team that produced pcb which
neeeding replacing so often ....- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Having started out by launching into a subject about which you
patently know very little and advising the OP that a malfunctioning
gas valve is normal, I suggest the best thing you can do is stop
digging the hole you have dropped yourself into.
Geoff has been surprisingly patient with you considering the danger
which following your ill considered first response might have created.
Ed tried to explain to you that just because your old boiler had a
permanent pilot doesn't mean newer interrupted pilot models were the
same and yet you still keep on sniping away.
Take a bit of advice, shut up on this subject and learn from Geoff who
group regulars know is familiar with the sequence controls and PCBs of
nearly every boiler presently marketed in the UK and most of the ones
still installed but no longer made.

In message , NikV
writes

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , NikV
writes

"raden" wrote in message
...
and you called me the clueless f*ckwit, think you've demonstrated that
adequately now :-)

That's because you are - and then you pushed it to prove it beyond doubt

amazing how comunicative you can be with resorting to abuse - it must be
good for you :-)

When someone tells someone who has what amounts to a gas leak that it's
normal ? - clueless ****wit about sums you up

ah poor dear, was it another difficult day - back to the abuse again (oh I
remember its because you can) - I wonder what else you do 'because you can')
perhaps later you'll feel more mellow :-)

No, I'm just naturally abusive to eejits - in English, Malay or whatever
language


quite surpising though that the more technology seems to provide a fail
dangerous leak - probably the same design team that produced pcb which
neeeding replacing so often ....

****ed if I have the slightest idea what you're waffling on about there

--
geoff

"cynic" wrote in message
ps.com...
On 23 Aug, 19:39, "NikV" wrote:

snip



whilst agreeing with your sentiments re the advice to the op it seems that
most of the comments refer to the inability of some to say anything without
swearing

In message , Ageless
writes

"cynic" wrote in message
ups.com...
On 23 Aug, 19:39, "NikV" wrote:

snip



whilst agreeing with your sentiments re the advice to the op it seems that
most of the comments refer to the inability of some to say anything without
swearing

Sorry, I don't suffer fools

especially those who don't stop when they have given incorrect and
dangerous advice, but then follow it up with more stupidity

Lets not forget, he was in effect telling the OP that the gas leak
(through the pilot valve) was perfectly normal because he's a clueless
****wit (others might use other words)

and if you don't like it ...


--
geoff