Hello

We have just had our walls skimmed and they are ready for painting -
but, I have a question!

The plasterer says, to just waterdown some cheam emulsion, paint that on
and then use a normal vinyl matt as a top coat.

The dulux decorating centre say, don't do that as it will crack, use
"super Matt" or "contract matt" and live with the fact that it will need
to be redone in 6 months or so and that it will scuff.

The Artexer says, to use a acrylic based undercoat and to then use an
ordinary emulsion as a top coat.

Ummm, who's right?

Cheers
Mike

In article ,
Mike Hibbert writes:
Hello

We have just had our walls skimmed and they are ready for painting -
but, I have a question!

The plasterer says, to just waterdown some cheam emulsion, paint that on
and then use a normal vinyl matt as a top coat.

The dulux decorating centre say, don't do that as it will crack, use
"super Matt" or "contract matt" and live with the fact that it will need
to be redone in 6 months or so and that it will scuff.

The Artexer says, to use a acrylic based undercoat and to then use an
ordinary emulsion as a top coat.

Ummm, who's right?

If _cheam_ emulsion is _cheap_ emulsion, then the plaster is right.
Wait for plaster to dry first, and then a few more days just to
be sure. Use matt emulsion. It will say on the tin how much to
water down, but 10%-25% is typical, with more watering down
required the more polished the plaster finish is. Matt emulsion
leaves a very nice surface for applying just about any type of
paint on top.

The dulux decorating centre is correct for a new build which
will need time to dry out, and shouldn't be painted with an
impermeable paint such as silk/vinyl until the walls are dried
through. This shouldn't be necessary just for a reskim.

Don't use PVA. This advice seems to have come from makeover TV
programs, but it's so wrong, some paint manufacturers have
had to start warning against it on their tins now. (It creates
a disaster which is very difficult to recover from.)

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

Andrew Gabriel wrote:


Don't use PVA. This advice seems to have come from makeover TV
programs, but it's so wrong, some paint manufacturers have
had to start warning against it on their tins now. (It creates
a disaster which is very difficult to recover from.)

What are the effects of using PVA?

S Viemeister wrote:
Andrew Gabriel wrote:


Don't use PVA. This advice seems to have come from makeover TV
programs, but it's so wrong, some paint manufacturers have
had to start warning against it on their tins now. (It creates
a disaster which is very difficult to recover from.)

What are the effects of using PVA?

It's not "wrong" as such but, if you overdo it, you can create a film on
the surface that won't take a colour very well. Streaks, brushmarks
etc. So, basically, it's safer to use thinned paint.
I've used Crown emulsion straight from the tin on new plaster many times
without incident. I really can't be arsed watering down paint and the
mess that creates

"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
...
S Viemeister wrote:
Andrew Gabriel wrote:


Don't use PVA. This advice seems to have come from makeover TV
programs, but it's so wrong, some paint manufacturers have
had to start warning against it on their tins now. (It creates
a disaster which is very difficult to recover from.)

What are the effects of using PVA?

It's not "wrong" as such but, if you overdo it, you can create a film on
the surface that won't take a colour very well. Streaks, brushmarks etc.
So, basically, it's safer to use thinned paint.
I've used Crown emulsion straight from the tin on new plaster many times
without incident. I really can't be arsed watering down paint and the mess
that creates

I've not used watered down paint on fresh plaster, but on repainting I find
it makes coverage very much smoother when using emulsion diluted about 1
part in 5.

On 11 Mar, 14:58, (Andrew Gabriel) wrote:
In article ,
Mike Hibbert writes:

Hello

We have just had our walls skimmed and they are ready for painting -
but, I have a question!

The plasterer says, to just waterdown some cheam emulsion, paint that on
and then use a normal vinyl matt as a top coat.

The dulux decorating centre say, don't do that as it will crack, use
"super Matt" or "contract matt" and live with the fact that it will need
to be redone in 6 months or so and that it will scuff.

The Artexer says, to use a acrylic based undercoat and to then use an
ordinary emulsion as a top coat.

Ummm, who's right?

If _cheam_ emulsion is _cheap_ emulsion, then the plaster is right.
Wait for plaster to dry first, and then a few more days just to
be sure. Use matt emulsion. It will say on the tin how much to
water down, but 10%-25% is typical, with more watering down
required the more polished the plaster finish is. Matt emulsion
leaves a very nice surface for applying just about any type of
paint on top.

The dulux decorating centre is correct for a new build which
will need time to dry out, and shouldn't be painted with an
impermeable paint such as silk/vinyl until the walls are dried
through. This shouldn't be necessary just for a reskim.

Don't use PVA. This advice seems to have come from makeover TV
programs, but it's so wrong, some paint manufacturers have
had to start warning against it on their tins now. (It creates
a disaster which is very difficult to recover from.)

Too much pva and it forms a plastic like layer, which repels paint.

There is a quicker version than diluting paint 50/50, that is paint
the wall with a coat of water, which can be done without any
particular care, thus very fast, leave it 5 minutes, then paint with
emulsion full strength. Its quicker, easier, less messy, and gives
more body in the time.

For only a skim I wouldnt use the porous stuff that wears badly, not
needed.


NT