Hi,

I am now fitting skirting boards to the 3rd room in my house. I have
screwed the skirting to the wall in the first two rooms. My problem is
that is that the edges never fit flush. I read somewhere that a better
way to get edges to fit is to cut the edge of the skirting to the
outline shape of the skriting board pattern..but this seems very
diffuicult to do unless you have a simply design.

So my question is how to professionals fit skirting? I tried nailing
it which makes it easier to get a better fit but the masonry nails
just pop out. I dont want to glue it as i have a wodden floor and may
need to remove the skirting if i have prblems with the floor.

Many Thanks

Marc

"Marc" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi,

I am now fitting skirting boards to the 3rd room in my house. I have
screwed the skirting to the wall in the first two rooms. My problem is
that is that the edges never fit flush. I read somewhere that a better
way to get edges to fit is to cut the edge of the skirting to the
outline shape of the skriting board pattern..but this seems very
diffuicult to do unless you have a simply design.

So my question is how to professionals fit skirting? I tried nailing
it which makes it easier to get a better fit but the masonry nails
just pop out. I dont want to glue it as i have a wodden floor and may
need to remove the skirting if i have prblems with the floor.


You mitre the board and then cut the profile by following the cut line of
the mitre with a coping saw.
Profile for internal corners.
Just mitre for external corners.
If you're painting it doesn't have to be perfect, gripfill or similar can
fill up the gaps.

--
Mike W

"visionset" wrote in message
...

"Marc" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi,

I am now fitting skirting boards to the 3rd room in my house. I have
screwed the skirting to the wall in the first two rooms. My problem is
that is that the edges never fit flush. I read somewhere that a better
way to get edges to fit is to cut the edge of the skirting to the
outline shape of the skriting board pattern..but this seems very
diffuicult to do unless you have a simply design.

So my question is how to professionals fit skirting? I tried nailing
it which makes it easier to get a better fit but the masonry nails
just pop out. I dont want to glue it as i have a wodden floor and may
need to remove the skirting if i have prblems with the floor.


You mitre the board and then cut the profile by following the cut line of
the mitre with a coping saw.
Profile for internal corners.
Just mitre for external corners.
If you're painting it doesn't have to be perfect, gripfill or similar can
fill up the gaps.

The problem is that skirting boards can have slight bowing or cupping, and
if cut purely using a mitre the end result will not necessarily fit together
well. I'm not sur ewhy a mitred joint cannot be used for an internal corner,
certainly a profile joint can be used on an internal corner but it is fiddly
cutting out a complicated profile as the OP said.

If the skirting boards aren't entirely true and a mitred joint doesn't fit
properly, short of filling, it is possible to determine the areas of contact
by butting the two pieces together in position, with chalk on one mating
face, then noting where the chalk transfers to on the other mating face, and
removing the high spot(s) gradually using a mini-plane or a chisel. Both
must have a very sharp blade else it's hard work. Still a pain to do though.

Andy

Marc wrote:
Hi,

I am now fitting skirting boards to the 3rd room in my house. I have
screwed the skirting to the wall in the first two rooms. My problem is
that is that the edges never fit flush. I read somewhere that a better
way to get edges to fit is to cut the edge of the skirting to the
outline shape of the skriting board pattern..but this seems very
diffuicult to do unless you have a simply design.

So my question is how to professionals fit skirting? I tried nailing
it which makes it easier to get a better fit but the masonry nails
just pop out. I dont want to glue it as i have a wodden floor and may
need to remove the skirting if i have prblems with the floor.

Many Thanks

Marc


Skirting is mainly cosmetic so Gripfil is neater and easier. If you work
on the principle that you're going to have problems down the line, you'd
never finish anything. The floor will be fine :-)

On Mar 4, 11:37 am, "Marc" wrote:
Hi,

I am now fitting skirting boards to the 3rd room in my house. I have
screwed the skirting to the wall in the first two rooms. My problem is
that is that the edges never fit flush. I read somewhere that a better
way to get edges to fit is to cut the edge of the skirting to the
outline shape of the skirting board pattern..but this seems very
difficult to do unless you have a simply design.

So my question is how to professionals fit skirting? I tried nailing
it which makes it easier to get a better fit but the masonry nails
just pop out. I don't want to glue it as i have a wooden floor and may
need to remove the skirting if i have problems with the floor.

Use Opera or Firefox for a spelling checker.
http://www.opera.com/support/tutoria...ra/spellcheck/

What are you fixing them to?

If the wall is soft enough -plasterboard or breeze-block, then you can
use Gripfill and pins. Cut the profiles at a slight angle and make the
lengths some 3/8ths too long so that the profile will cut into the
board it abuts.

Use PVA to stop them opening. If the gap is very noticeable, you can
use filler or GripFill. If the joins remain awful, use GripFill
instead of PVA.

On Mar 4, 3:17 pm, "Weatherlawyer" wrote:
On Mar 4, 11:37 am, "Marc" wrote:

Hi,

I am now fitting skirting boards to the 3rd room in my house. I have
screwed the skirting to the wall in the first two rooms. My problem is
that is that the edges never fit flush. I read somewhere that a better
way to get edges to fit is to cut the edge of the skirting to the
outline shape of the skirting board pattern..but this seems very
difficult to do unless you have a simply design.

So my question is how to professionals fit skirting? I tried nailing
it which makes it easier to get a better fit but the masonry nails
just pop out. I don't want to glue it as i have a wooden floor and may
need to remove the skirting if i have problems with the floor.

Use Opera or Firefox for a spelling checker.http://www.opera.com/support/tutoria...ra/spellcheck/

What are you fixing them to?

If the wall is soft enough -plasterboard or breeze-block, then you can
use Gripfill and pins. Cut the profiles at a slight angle and make the
lengths some 3/8ths too long so that the profile will cut into the
board it abuts.

Use PVA to stop them opening. If the gap is very noticeable, you can
use filler or GripFill. If the joins remain awful, use GripFill
instead of PVA.

A couple more points are that if the floor is uneven you shouldn't
expect t have 90 degree cuts. And if the plaster has a bell on it as
it will have if the plasterer wasn't any good, the skirting will not
sit right.

One more thing is similar to the bell in bad plasterwork, uneven
thicknesses. Just fix the boards to the bumps as following bad curves
in the wall will make the job look terrible.

Use packers and extra GripFill if that has to happen. Buy a bag of
plastic packers from a builder's merchant or just cut up some cereal
packets. Put a bit of glue on them and slide them in the gaps behind
the skirting.

Then a bead of filler mastic afterwards will make it look 100%.

Weatherlawyer wrote:
On Mar 4, 3:17 pm, "Weatherlawyer" wrote:
On Mar 4, 11:37 am, "Marc" wrote:

Hi,
I am now fitting skirting boards to the 3rd room in my house. I have
screwed the skirting to the wall in the first two rooms. My problem is
that is that the edges never fit flush. I read somewhere that a better
way to get edges to fit is to cut the edge of the skirting to the
outline shape of the skirting board pattern..but this seems very
difficult to do unless you have a simply design.
So my question is how to professionals fit skirting? I tried nailing
it which makes it easier to get a better fit but the masonry nails
just pop out. I don't want to glue it as i have a wooden floor and may
need to remove the skirting if i have problems with the floor.
Use Opera or Firefox for a spelling checker.http://www.opera.com/support/tutoria...ra/spellcheck/

What are you fixing them to?

If the wall is soft enough -plasterboard or breeze-block, then you can
use Gripfill and pins. Cut the profiles at a slight angle and make the
lengths some 3/8ths too long so that the profile will cut into the
board it abuts.

Use PVA to stop them opening. If the gap is very noticeable, you can
use filler or GripFill. If the joins remain awful, use GripFill
instead of PVA.

A couple more points are that if the floor is uneven you shouldn't
expect t have 90 degree cuts. And if the plaster has a bell on it as
it will have if the plasterer wasn't any good, the skirting will not
sit right.

One more thing is similar to the bell in bad plasterwork, uneven
thicknesses. Just fix the boards to the bumps as following bad curves
in the wall will make the job look terrible.

I agree in principle though I would flatten the higher bumps

Use packers and extra GripFill if that has to happen. Buy a bag of
plastic packers from a builder's merchant or just cut up some cereal
packets. Put a bit of glue on them and slide them in the gaps behind
the skirting.

Then a bead of filler mastic afterwards will make it look 100%.

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Marc wrote:

Hi,

I am now fitting skirting boards to the 3rd room in my house. I have
screwed the skirting to the wall in the first two rooms. My problem is
that is that the edges never fit flush. I read somewhere that a better
way to get edges to fit is to cut the edge of the skirting to the
outline shape of the skriting board pattern..but this seems very
diffuicult to do unless you have a simply design.

So my question is how to professionals fit skirting? I tried nailing
it which makes it easier to get a better fit but the masonry nails
just pop out. I dont want to glue it as i have a wodden floor and may
need to remove the skirting if i have prblems with the floor.

Many Thanks

Marc

Forget the professionals - find a method which suits you!

I would glue them on with Gripfill. If they *do* have to come off again,
they may bring a bit of plaster with them - but that's easy enough to
repair.

I mitre mine for both internal and external corners. The claimed
disadvantage of this compared with profiling internal corners is that, when
a length of board has a mitre *both* ends, you have to be able to measure
and cut *very* accurately. So what?! It's still easier than profiling in my
opinion - particularly if the skirting board has a fancy cross-section.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

On 4 Mar, 20:11, "Roger Mills" wrote:
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,





Marc wrote:
Hi,

I am now fitting skirting boards to the 3rd room in my house. I have
screwed the skirting to the wall in the first two rooms. My problem is
that is that the edges never fit flush. I read somewhere that a better
way to get edges to fit is to cut the edge of the skirting to the
outline shape of the skriting board pattern..but this seems very
diffuicult to do unless you have a simply design.

So my question is how to professionals fit skirting? I tried nailing
it which makes it easier to get a better fit but the masonry nails
just pop out. I dont want to glue it as i have a wodden floor and may
need to remove the skirting if i have prblems with the floor.

Many Thanks

Marc

Forget the professionals - find a method which suits you!

I would glue them on with Gripfill. If they *do* have to come off again,
they may bring a bit of plaster with them - but that's easy enough to
repair.

I mitre mine for both internal and external corners. The claimed
disadvantage of this compared with profiling internal corners is that, when
a length of board has a mitre *both* ends, you have to be able to measure
and cut *very* accurately. So what?! It's still easier than profiling in my
opinion - particularly if the skirting board has a fancy cross-section.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks all...i think ill stick with motres both ends and use wood
filler.

On 4 Mar, 15:26, "Weatherlawyer" wrote:
On Mar 4, 3:17 pm, "Weatherlawyer" wrote:

Use Opera or Firefox for a spelling checker.http://www.opera.com/support/tutoria...ra/spellcheck/


A couple more points are that if the floor is uneven you shouldn't
expect t have 90 degree cuts. And if the plaster has a bell on it as
it will have if the plasterer wasn't any good, the skirting will not
sit right.


Perhaps you should practice what you preach?

Mathew

On 4 Mar, 20:59, "Marc" wrote:

Thanks all...i think ill stick with motres both ends and use wood
filler.- Hide quoted text -

I may have missed it if you already mentioned but are you painting
(i.e. not varnishing) the skirting? If so you really don't need
anywhere near perfection with the cuts as filler alone will easily
produce a perfect corner which of course will not be visible once
painted.

Mathew

Marc
I would recomend profiling the job. It really is quite easy... in fact
you can get a pretty good job with a simply jig saw using a scribing
blade. Get an offcut of skirting with both ends cut straight at 90
degrees. Then whenever you have a corner just trace round that using a
pencil (on the back flat edge of the skirting). You can then cut the
board either with a coping saw, jig saw, or both. For external angles
just mitre. Believe me it really is quick and easy, and you get a job
that knocks the socks off how you were previously doing it.

By the way, do the profile 1st and then cut to size... much easier.

Calum Sabey
NewArk Traditional Kitchens 01556 690544