whilst bleeding my radiator i have managed to over tighten the bleed
screw and snap the square end off the rest of the screw. to try and
remove the rest of the bleed screw i have used a drill and some screw
extractors but have been unsucessful in doing so. the type of radiator
in question is an old type round topped radiator which does not have
the facility to use a spanner to bleed the radiator.
what i am wondering is if anybody has come across this problem before
and what have you done to resolve it?

"hogie" wrote in message
oups.com...
whilst bleeding my radiator i have managed to over tighten the bleed
screw and snap the square end off the rest of the screw. to try and
remove the rest of the bleed screw i have used a drill and some screw
extractors but have been unsucessful in doing so. the type of radiator
in question is an old type round topped radiator which does not have
the facility to use a spanner to bleed the radiator.
what i am wondering is if anybody has come across this problem before
and what have you done to resolve it?


We had this one recently and my idea was to abandon the broken one and just
fit a new bleed screw in the other end of the radiator.

Bob

On 30 Jan, 20:45, "Bob Minchin" wrote:
"hogie" wrote in message

oups.com...

whilst bleeding my radiator i have managed to over tighten the bleed
screw and snap the square end off the rest of the screw. to try and
remove the rest of the bleed screw i have used a drill and some screw
extractors but have been unsucessful in doing so. the type of radiator
in question is an old type round topped radiator which does not have
the facility to use a spanner to bleed the radiator.
what i am wondering is if anybody has come across this problem before
and what have you done to resolve it?

We had this one recently and my idea was to abandon the broken one and just
fit a new bleed screw in the other end of the radiator.

Bob

Hi Bob,

Thanks for getting back to me, what size did you drill and tap the
hole for the new bleed screw?

Thanks.

"hogie" wrote in message
oups.com...
On 30 Jan, 20:45, "Bob Minchin" wrote:
"hogie" wrote in message

oups.com...

whilst bleeding my radiator i have managed to over tighten the bleed
screw and snap the square end off the rest of the screw. to try and
remove the rest of the bleed screw i have used a drill and some screw
extractors but have been unsucessful in doing so. the type of radiator
in question is an old type round topped radiator which does not have
the facility to use a spanner to bleed the radiator.
what i am wondering is if anybody has come across this problem before
and what have you done to resolve it?

We had this one recently and my idea was to abandon the broken one and
just
fit a new bleed screw in the other end of the radiator.

Bob

Hi Bob,

Thanks for getting back to me, what size did you drill and tap the
hole for the new bleed screw?

Thanks.


Hi Hogie,

No drilling and tapping needed just take out the blanking plug and fit a
complete bleed screw assembly. Thread is usually 1/2" BSP but there are
other sizes here http://www.toolstation.com/search.html?searchstr=69952
and you will need a little ptfe tape to seal it too.

hth

Bob

On 30 Jan, 21:24, "Bob Minchin" wrote:
"hogie" wrote in message

oups.com...





On 30 Jan, 20:45, "Bob Minchin" wrote:
"hogie" wrote in message

roups.com...

whilst bleeding my radiator i have managed to over tighten the bleed
screw and snap the square end off the rest of the screw. to try and
remove the rest of the bleed screw i have used a drill and some screw
extractors but have been unsucessful in doing so. the type of radiator
in question is an old type round topped radiator which does not have
the facility to use a spanner to bleed the radiator.
what i am wondering is if anybody has come across this problem before
and what have you done to resolve it?

We had this one recently and my idea was to abandon the broken one and
just
fit a new bleed screw in the other end of the radiator.

Bob

Hi Bob,

Thanks for getting back to me, what size did you drill and tap the
hole for the new bleed screw?

Thanks.

Hi Hogie,

No drilling and tapping needed just take out the blanking plug and fit a
complete bleed screw assembly. Thread is usually 1/2" BSP but there are
other sizes herehttp://www.toolstation.com/search.html?searchstr=69952
and you will need a little ptfe tape to seal it too.

hth

Bob- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks bob, but the radiator that i have is one of the really old
style ones there is no blanking plug on the other end, its a sealed
radiator

Hogie

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
hogie wrote:


Thanks bob, but the radiator that i have is one of the really old
style ones there is no blanking plug on the other end, its a sealed
radiator

Hogie

Does it have a flat welded-in plate at the opposite end, or is it just
rounded over?

If it's a flat surface, you may be able to drill and tap it and fit a bleed
assembly. The smallest one listed in
http://www.toolstation.com/search.html?searchstr=69952 [No: 91015 - 1/8"
BSP] would be the best. You can't just drill and tap for the centre pin
because it would have no seat to seal against.

If there isn't a flat surface at the end, you could drill and tap the back
face of the radiator, just down from the top. It's a bit awkward bleeding it
in that position - but not impossible. Indeed, some modern radiators have
the bleed screw factory fitted on the back!
--
Cheers,
Roger
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monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
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On 30 Jan, 23:13, "Roger Mills" wrote:
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,

hogie wrote:

Thanks bob, but the radiator that i have is one of the really old
style ones there is no blanking plug on the other end, its a sealed
radiator

Hogie

Does it have a flat welded-in plate at the opposite end, or is it just
rounded over?

If it's a flat surface, you may be able to drill and tap it and fit a bleed
assembly. The smallest one listed inhttp://www.toolstation.com/search.html?searchstr=69952[No: 91015 - 1/8"
BSP] would be the best. You can't just drill and tap for the centre pin
because it would have no seat to seal against.

If there isn't a flat surface at the end, you could drill and tap the back
face of the radiator, just down from the top. It's a bit awkward bleeding it
in that position - but not impossible. Indeed, some modern radiators have
the bleed screw factory fitted on the back!
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

thanks roger,

but the radiator that i have has no flat surface on the end of it, the
bleed screw that i damaged is at the back of the radiator, what size
tap do you think would be best? and how far in do i go?

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
hogie wrote:


thanks roger,

but the radiator that i have has no flat surface on the end of it, the
bleed screw that i damaged is at the back of the radiator, what size
tap do you think would be best? and how far in do i go?


If you use the fitting which I suggested (above) you'll need a 1/8"BSP tap.
A 1/8"BSP thread is 0.383" (9.7mm) in diameter and has 28 threads/inch. The
fitting won't actually look like the generic picture on the Toolstation
website - but will have a shoulder outboard of the thread. You'll need to
drill and tap right through the wall of the radiator, and screw the fitting
in so that the shoulder seals against a fibre washer.

[You'll get a better picture of the little fitting on the BES site. Go to
http://www.bes.ltd.uk/nav_graf/frames_cat.htm and type "Air vent" (without
the quotes) into the product search box. Select the first offering (Diverter
valves and air vents) and scroll down to Air Vents. The small one (6916) is
what yours will look like.]
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!