I have a radiatior whose bleed valve was cross-threaded, removing it
has completely destroyed it. No problem I thought, just get a new one.
However I've not been able to source one at the usual D-I-Y suspects.
The valve is simply a small screw, the end that goes into the radiator
has a taper. It has the normal square end. All the ones I have seen
are much larger. This radiator dates from the late 80's so I assumed
that things wouldn't have changed much.

Anyone know a source for a suitable valve?

TIA Steve

In article ,
Steve Pearce * wrote:
I have a radiatior whose bleed valve was cross-threaded, removing it
has completely destroyed it. No problem I thought, just get a new one.
However I've not been able to source one at the usual D-I-Y suspects.
The valve is simply a small screw, the end that goes into the radiator
has a taper. It has the normal square end. All the ones I have seen
are much larger. This radiator dates from the late 80's so I assumed
that things wouldn't have changed much.

Anyone know a source for a suitable valve?

This is the type built in?

Assuming you've tried the maker, the only other thing would be to check
out lots of different sellers - including all the sheds. The type sold as
a complete valve and body to screw in will have a standard radiator
fitting, but might well have a different actual valve.

Alternately, find a brass screw that fits and have a point machined on it.

--
*For every action, there is an equal and opposite criticism *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Steve Pearce" * wrote in message
...
I have a radiatior whose bleed valve was cross-threaded, removing it
has completely destroyed it. No problem I thought, just get a new one.
However I've not been able to source one at the usual D-I-Y suspects.
The valve is simply a small screw, the end that goes into the radiator
has a taper. It has the normal square end. All the ones I have seen
are much larger. This radiator dates from the late 80's so I assumed
that things wouldn't have changed much.

Anyone know a source for a suitable valve?

TIA Steve

=================
I don't know if this will work because I haven't tried it. Ask at a garage
for a bleed valve from a discarded brake wheel cylinder. They'll probably
have a few lying round and if so it will be worth a try and I doubt if
they'll charge you anything for taking away their scrap .

Cic.

On Wed, 27 Oct 2004 13:19:42 +0100, Steve Pearce wrote:

However I've not been able to source one at the usual D-I-Y
suspects.

I doubt that you will be able to just get the threaded pointy bit,
whole new assemblies shouldn't be a problem.

Does this rad have a welded in seating or a removeable one? Take the
mangled remains and removeable fitting along to a plumbers merchant
and see what they can offer.

--
Cheers
Dave. pam is missing e-mail

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article ,
Steve Pearce * wrote:
I have a radiatior whose bleed valve was cross-threaded, removing it
has completely destroyed it. No problem I thought, just get a new
one. However I've not been able to source one at the usual D-I-Y
suspects. The valve is simply a small screw, the end that goes into
the radiator has a taper. It has the normal square end. All the ones
I have seen are much larger. This radiator dates from the late 80's
so I assumed that things wouldn't have changed much.

Anyone know a source for a suitable valve?

This is the type built in?

Assuming you've tried the maker, the only other thing would be to
check out lots of different sellers - including all the sheds. The
type sold as a complete valve and body to screw in will have a
standard radiator fitting, but might well have a different actual
valve.

Alternately, find a brass screw that fits and have a point machined
on it.

If it's like most of the bleed screws in my house, it will have a 2BA
thread. Get a 2BA brass bolt, with a hex head, about 1" long, and a couple
of nuts. Lock the nuts on about half way along the thread, with the hex
edges on the nut nearest to the head alligned with those on the head. Hold
it by the head and the first nut in the chuck of an electric drill, mounted
in a horizontal stand. Turn the drill on and use a small flat file to file a
45 degree (90 degrees at the apex) cone on the free end of the bold.

When this is screwed into the bleed hole, it should do the same job as the
original bleed screw - except that the head will stick out a bit further.

If the threads in the rad itself are damaged, you may have to clean them up
with a 2BA plug tap.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.