Hi folks.

Im new to this group. I know nothing about boilers or plumming (recent
home owner) and have had a search through this group already to see if
the topic has been covered - some of the jargon has thrown me a bit!
I'd be very grateful for any advice!

Yesterday I noticed my boiler had an error code on the display telling
me to increase the water inlet (the pressure had dropped below 1.0). i
opened the tap a bit more and went on my merry way. When I woke up
this morning, there was water dripping out of a small valve (some kind
of pressure release valve?) at the bottom of the boiler and I noticed
the pressure guage was fluctuating betweem 3.0 and 4.0, im guessing
that's not good.

Now when I open/close the the inlet tap, it seems to have no effect on
the pressure. Can anyone offer any advice please?

Thanks in advance

Tom

wrote:
Hi folks.

Im new to this group. I know nothing about boilers or plumming (recent
home owner) and have had a search through this group already to see if
the topic has been covered - some of the jargon has thrown me a bit!
I'd be very grateful for any advice!

Yesterday I noticed my boiler had an error code on the display telling
me to increase the water inlet (the pressure had dropped below 1.0). i
opened the tap a bit more and went on my merry way.

Do you mean you opened the filling loop valve and left it open? Could
you define "the tap" and "a bit more"? Photos are always good.


When I woke up
this morning, there was water dripping out of a small valve (some kind
of pressure release valve?) at the bottom of the boiler and I noticed
the pressure guage was fluctuating betweem 3.0 and 4.0, im guessing
that's not good.

Your guess is correct.


--
Grunff

hi.

What I meant by opening the tap was the actual 'Water inlet valve'.
When I read the instructions in the manaul, it said to increase the
water inlet slightly and the turnoff/on the boiler to reset it.

I have just had another look at the boiler and drained the valve at
the bottom that was initially leaking this morning. I have managed to
drain the pressure back down to 1.0, but again, when i open/close the
water inlet valve it doesnt seem to have any effect on the pressure
gauge! Any ideas?

thanks for your help.

(it's an Ariston micro Genus HE if that help at all?)

On 28 Jan, 10:40, Grunff wrote:
wrote:
Hi folks.

Im new to this group. I know nothing about boilers or plumming (recent
home owner) and have had a search through this group already to see if
the topic has been covered - some of the jargon has thrown me a bit!
I'd be very grateful for any advice!

Yesterday I noticed my boiler had an error code on the display telling
me to increase the water inlet (the pressure had dropped below 1.0). i
opened the tap a bit more and went on my merry way.Do you mean you opened the filling loop valve and left it open? Could
you define "the tap" and "a bit more"? Photos are always good.

When I woke up
this morning, there was water dripping out of a small valve (some kind
of pressure release valve?) at the bottom of the boiler and I noticed
the pressure guage was fluctuating betweem 3.0 and 4.0, im guessing
that's not good.Your guess is correct.

--
Grunff

wrote:
Hi folks.

Im new to this group. I know nothing about boilers or plumming (recent
home owner) and have had a search through this group already to see if
the topic has been covered - some of the jargon has thrown me a bit!
I'd be very grateful for any advice!

Yesterday I noticed my boiler had an error code on the display telling
me to increase the water inlet (the pressure had dropped below 1.0). i
opened the tap a bit more and went on my merry way. When I woke up
this morning, there was water dripping out of a small valve (some kind
of pressure release valve?) at the bottom of the boiler and I noticed
the pressure guage was fluctuating betweem 3.0 and 4.0, im guessing
that's not good.

Now when I open/close the the inlet tap, it seems to have no effect on
the pressure. Can anyone offer any advice please?


It means you have pressurised the boiler to beyond the safety valve
point..1-1.5 bar is more suitable than 3-4 :-)

Bleed a radiator a bit to get the pressure down to 1.5bar.


Thanks in advance

Tom

Grunff wrote:
wrote:
Hi folks.

Im new to this group. I know nothing about boilers or plumming (recent
home owner) and have had a search through this group already to see if
the topic has been covered - some of the jargon has thrown me a bit!
I'd be very grateful for any advice!

Yesterday I noticed my boiler had an error code on the display telling
me to increase the water inlet (the pressure had dropped below 1.0). i
opened the tap a bit more and went on my merry way.

Do you mean you opened the filling loop valve and left it open? Could
you define "the tap" and "a bit more"? Photos are always good.

Ah. You open the filling valve, until the gauge reads 1.5 or so, then
close it.

Release pressure to get it down by bleeding a radiator.


When I woke up this morning, there was water dripping out of a small
valve (some kind of pressure release valve?) at the bottom of the
boiler and I noticed the pressure guage was fluctuating betweem 3.0
and 4.0, im guessing that's not good.

Your guess is correct.

Thanks for your response.

So if i have understood you correctly, what I should have done to
relieve the pressure was drain by bleeding a radiator, not by opening
the valve at the bottom? oops. Do I still need to bleed the radiator?

The pressure is now remaining constant at 1.5 but does not seem to
fluctuate anymore, even when the central heating/hot water is in
operation.

On 28 Jan, 11:27, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Grunff wrote:
wrote:
Hi folks.

Im new to this group. I know nothing about boilers or plumming (recent
home owner) and have had a search through this group already to see if
the topic has been covered - some of the jargon has thrown me a bit!
I'd be very grateful for any advice!

Yesterday I noticed my boiler had an error code on the display telling
me to increase the water inlet (the pressure had dropped below 1.0). i
opened the tap a bit more and went on my merry way.

Do you mean you opened the filling loop valve and left it open? Could
you define "the tap" and "a bit more"? Photos are always good.Ah. You open the filling valve, until the gauge reads 1.5 or so, then
close it.

Release pressure to get it down by bleeding a radiator.



When I woke up this morning, there was water dripping out of a small
valve (some kind of pressure release valve?) at the bottom of the
boiler and I noticed the pressure guage was fluctuating betweem 3.0
and 4.0, im guessing that's not good.

Your guess is correct.

In article om,
writes:
hi.

What I meant by opening the tap was the actual 'Water inlet valve'.
When I read the instructions in the manaul, it said to increase the
water inlet slightly and the turnoff/on the boiler to reset it.

I have just had another look at the boiler and drained the valve at
the bottom that was initially leaking this morning. I have managed to
drain the pressure back down to 1.0, but again, when i open/close the
water inlet valve it doesnt seem to have any effect on the pressure
gauge! Any ideas?

You open the valve to raise the pressure, and you stand there
watching the pressure guage, and turn it off when it's up
to pressure. You never leave it turned on. There should be a
flexible filling loop which you remove when you aren't topping
up the system, so the heating system can't force dirty water
and inibitor chemicals back into your clean water supply.

Your actions overnight have probably flushed most of the
corrosion inhibitor out of the system, so that will need
replacing now. You may also have flushed crud into the pressure
relief valve which might cause it to leak even when pressure
isn't too high.

--
Andrew Gabriel

wrote:

Im new to this group. I know nothing about boilers or plumming (recent
home owner) and have had a search through this group already to see if
the topic has been covered - some of the jargon has thrown me a bit!
I'd be very grateful for any advice!

Have a read of Ed's sealed system FAQ document - that will give you some
background on the jargon and also how systems like yours work.

http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html

Yesterday I noticed my boiler had an error code on the display telling
me to increase the water inlet (the pressure had dropped below 1.0). i
opened the tap a bit more and went on my merry way. When I woke up

This phrase "turned on a bit more" worries me a little! ;-)

Are we are talking about the "filling loop" (this is usually a small
valve or tap on the rising cold water main that is then connected to the
boilers heating circuit by a short flexible braided hose)?

If so then this tap should under normal circumstances always be turned
off, you only ever turn it on to refil or top up the system pressure,
and then once the desired pressure is reached you turn it off again.

If you leave the tap turned on, then the pressure will continue rising
until the CH circuit either reaches the same pressure as your cold mains
supply, or you exceed the threshold set on the safety release valve
(which hopefully exits through the wall outside somewhere).

Now when I open/close the the inlet tap, it seems to have no effect on
the pressure. Can anyone offer any advice please?

Depends a bit on exactly what you did inthe first place.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Hi John

I have left the filling loop closed, what I meant to say was that when
I open, I now cant seem to increase the pressure again if I need to,
where as before this whole problem occured, i was able to.

Thanks very much for all your helpful comments everyone... it's been a
boiler baptism of fire if nothing else.

Regards,
Tom

On 28 Jan, 12:34, John Rumm wrote:
wrote:
Im new to this group. I know nothing about boilers or plumming (recent
home owner) and have had a search through this group already to see if
the topic has been covered - some of the jargon has thrown me a bit!
I'd be very grateful for any advice!Have a read of Ed's sealed system FAQ document - that will give you some
background on the jargon and also how systems like yours work.

http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html

Yesterday I noticed my boiler had an error code on the display telling
me to increase the water inlet (the pressure had dropped below 1.0). i
opened the tap a bit more and went on my merry way. When I woke upThis phrase "turned on a bit more" worries me a little! ;-)

Are we are talking about the "filling loop" (this is usually a small
valve or tap on the rising cold water main that is then connected to the
boilers heating circuit by a short flexible braided hose)?

If so then this tap should under normal circumstances always be turned
off, you only ever turn it on to refil or top up the system pressure,
and then once the desired pressure is reached you turn it off again.

If you leave the tap turned on, then the pressure will continue rising
until the CH circuit either reaches the same pressure as your cold mains
supply, or you exceed the threshold set on the safety release valve
(which hopefully exits through the wall outside somewhere).

Now when I open/close the the inlet tap, it seems to have no effect on
the pressure. Can anyone offer any advice please?Depends a bit on exactly what you did inthe first place.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

wrote:

(folks prefer it if you don't top post in this group)

I have left the filling loop closed, what I meant to say was that when
I open, I now cant seem to increase the pressure again if I need to,
where as before this whole problem occured, i was able to.

When you open the tap, do you hear water flow?

If so then that would suggest water is being let out elsewhere - the
pressure release valve would be a prime candidate.

What sort of tap is it? (some, like gate valves (tap like things with a
circular red handle) have a habit of breaking internally and ceasing to
work).



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

As you look at the boiler, it's a small black catch that can be
rotated clockwise/anticlockwise (no more than 90 degrees) that sits
just under the boiler casing - left of centre. When I turn it, I am
not able to hear any water flow anymore.

It's all very confusing. As I mentioned above, the hot water and
central heating is working fine across all components (shower, taps,
all radiators etc) yet there is no fluctuation in pressure when the
boiler is being used. I remember noticing the pressure increasing /
decreasing as the boiler functions just after it was installed a few
months ago.

cheers.

On 28 Jan, 14:02, John Rumm wrote:
wrotefolks prefer it if you don't top post in this group)

I have left the filling loop closed, what I meant to say was that when
I open, I now cant seem to increase the pressure again if I need to,
where as before this whole problem occured, i was able to.When you open the tap, do you hear water flow?

If so then that would suggest water is being let out elsewhere - the
pressure release valve would be a prime candidate.

What sort of tap is it? (some, like gate valves (tap like things with a
circular red handle) have a habit of breaking internally and ceasing to
work).

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

wrote:

As you look at the boiler, it's a small black catch that can be
rotated clockwise/anticlockwise (no more than 90 degrees) that sits

Sounds like a quarter turn ball valve, which is what is often used for a
filling loop. These are generally very reliable, so it is unlikely to be
the cause of the problem.

Is it attached to a braided hose? If so you can usually unscrew this at
moth ends. If you disconnect one end and turn the tap *a little* you
should see water come out. If it does then tap is ok. The place where it
connects to the heating system should have a double check valve (looks a
bit like the tap base, but without the knob). This should be set to
allow water into the system but not to return.

It's all very confusing. As I mentioned above, the hot water and
central heating is working fine across all components (shower, taps,
all radiators etc) yet there is no fluctuation in pressure when the
boiler is being used. I remember noticing the pressure increasing /
decreasing as the boiler functions just after it was installed a few
months ago.

It could be you have got some dislodged crud in the pressure guage -
hence that is not showing the variation. The pressure ought to rise a
little as the system heats (the water in it expands).



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

wrote:
Thanks for your response.

So if i have understood you correctly, what I should have done to
relieve the pressure was drain by bleeding a radiator, not by opening
the valve at the bottom? oops. Do I still need to bleed the radiator?

The pressure is now remaining constant at 1.5 but does not seem to
fluctuate anymore, even when the central heating/hot water is in
operation.


If you have a drain anywhere its as good a way to relieve *pressure*..I
generally use a radiator tho, because the reason for pressure loss is
usaully that water has turned into gas by chemical action, and its the
gas that needs removing..I have tow rads that are classic 'gas traps'
these get bled every time I repressurise

On 28 Jan, 11:27, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Grunff wrote:
wrote:
Hi folks.
Im new to this group. I know nothing about boilers or plumming (recent
home owner) and have had a search through this group already to see if
the topic has been covered - some of the jargon has thrown me a bit!
I'd be very grateful for any advice!
Yesterday I noticed my boiler had an error code on the display telling
me to increase the water inlet (the pressure had dropped below 1.0). i
opened the tap a bit more and went on my merry way.
Do you mean you opened the filling loop valve and left it open? Could
you define "the tap" and "a bit more"? Photos are always good.Ah. You open the filling valve, until the gauge reads 1.5 or so, then
close it.

Release pressure to get it down by bleeding a radiator.



When I woke up this morning, there was water dripping out of a small
valve (some kind of pressure release valve?) at the bottom of the
boiler and I noticed the pressure guage was fluctuating betweem 3.0
and 4.0, im guessing that's not good.
Your guess is correct.

In article ,
The Natural Philosopher writes:
wrote:
Thanks for your response.

So if i have understood you correctly, what I should have done to
relieve the pressure was drain by bleeding a radiator, not by opening
the valve at the bottom? oops. Do I still need to bleed the radiator?

The pressure is now remaining constant at 1.5 but does not seem to
fluctuate anymore, even when the central heating/hot water is in
operation.

If you have a drain anywhere its as good a way to relieve *pressure*..I
generally use a radiator tho, because the reason for pressure loss is
usaully that water has turned into gas by chemical action, and its the
gas that needs removing..I have tow rads that are classic 'gas traps'
these get bled every time I repressurise

The main reason for not using the pressure relief valve is
that it's very susceptable to getting any debris in the
water caught between the sealing surfaces, which will then
cause it to weep.

--
Andrew Gabriel