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Old September 9th 03, 07:54 PM
glenn
 
Posts: n/a
Default Potterton Puma 80 Combi

Any suggestions as to the cause of the following fault.

Hot water is working OK.

Central heating switches on for 10-20 seconds, hot water emerges form heat
exchanger into diverter valve and would appear to the enter the CH return
side of the CH system (yes the valves are open). Water would just appear to
be pumped around the combi `end` of the system. Water gets so hot, gas valve
cuts out.

Diverter valve (full) has been replaced, problem persists. CH is also full
of crap and would appear to need a good flush, this has been attempted
(possibly not completely flushed) but problem still persists.

Any experts with this combi ??


Glenn



  #2   Report Post  
Old September 9th 03, 10:43 PM
Ed Sirett
 
Posts: n/a
Default Potterton Puma 80 Combi

glenn wrote:
=


Any suggestions as to the cause of the following fault.
=


Hot water is working OK.
=


Central heating switches on for 10-20 seconds, hot water emerges form h=

eat
exchanger into diverter valve and would appear to the enter the CH retu=

rn
side of the CH system (yes the valves are open). Water would just appea=

r to
be pumped around the combi `end` of the system. Water gets so hot, gas =

valve
cuts out.
=


Diverter valve (full) has been replaced, problem persists. CH is also f=

ull
of crap and would appear to need a good flush, this has been attempted
(possibly not completely flushed) but problem still persists.
=


Any experts with this combi ??
=


These boilers are a great boon to heating engineers and a bigger one to
the manufacturer who only sells the complete diverter valve (best part
of =A3100). =


If you had not had the diverter valve replaced I would say without
hesitation that the wax pellet acutator on the front end of the diverter
valve has gone tired and is not shifting the valve to CH mode. =


However the symptoms you describe are absolutely the same. =


1) A dripping HW tap can keep the actuator cool enough to prevent CH
coming on especially when the pellet is nearing the end of its shortish
life. =


2) Was it possible that the actuator was not replaced? Or the exchange
unit was not new?

3) Is it possible that all the radiators have TRVs and the temperture is
still too warm to let any circulation through the circuit?

4) The diverter valve can't move due to much debris (it would have to
be really bad for this). =


HTH

-- =

Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html
  #3   Report Post  
Old September 10th 03, 08:52 PM
Ed Sirett
 
Posts: n/a
Default Potterton Puma 80 Combi

glenn wrote:
=


"Ed Sirett" wrote in message
...
glenn wrote:

Any suggestions as to the cause of the following fault.

Hot water is working OK.

Central heating switches on for 10-20 seconds, hot water emerges form=

heat
exchanger into diverter valve and would appear to the enter the CH re=

turn
side of the CH system (yes the valves are open). Water would just app=

ear
to
be pumped around the combi `end` of the system. Water gets so hot, ga=

s
valve
cuts out.

Diverter valve (full) has been replaced, problem persists. CH is also=

full
of crap and would appear to need a good flush, this has been attempte=

d
(possibly not completely flushed) but problem still persists.

Any experts with this combi ??

These boilers are a great boon to heating engineers and a bigger one to=


the manufacturer who only sells the complete diverter valve (best part
of =A3100).
=


If you had not had the diverter valve replaced I would say without
hesitation that the wax pellet acutator on the front end of the diverte=

r
valve has gone tired and is not shifting the valve to CH mode.
=


However the symptoms you describe are absolutely the same.
=


1) A dripping HW tap can keep the actuator cool enough to prevent CH
coming on especially when the pellet is nearing the end of its shortish=


life.
=


2) Was it possible that the actuator was not replaced? Or the exchange
unit was not new?
=


3) Is it possible that all the radiators have TRVs and the temperture i=

s
still too warm to let any circulation through the circuit?
=


4) The diverter valve can't move due to much debris (it would have to
be really bad for this).
=


HTH
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html
=


It was advice from the web that pointed the finger at the diverter valv=

e
(there was a very small leak anyway).
=


No TRVs and no leaking tap.
=


Plumber been out today, CH worked straight away.
=


Plumbers explanation was sludge in the system which has since been flus=

hed
was to blame, the reason why the CH would not work after the valve
replacement is that the boiler had air in. He claimed that it takes sev=

eral
days for the air valve to allow all of the air to escape.
=


The explanation does not sound correct to me but I am not a plumber.


The sludge could cause the problem - in which case you will need to get
everything cleared out in due course.

If there was so much air in the system to cause this problem then it
would also cause HW problems - chekc the auto air bleed unit is working
and its dust cap is open. =



-- =

Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html
  #4   Report Post  
Old September 10th 03, 10:44 PM
glenn
 
Posts: n/a
Default Potterton Puma 80 Combi


"IMM" wrote in message
...

The sludge could cause the problem - in which case you will need to get
everything cleared out in due course.

If there was so much air in the system to cause this problem then it
would also cause HW problems - chekc the auto air bleed unit is working
and its dust cap is open.


And fit a strainer in the CH return pipe with a full bore valve either
side.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.507 / Virus Database: 304 - Release Date: 04/08/2003



Is there any reliable way to test the air bleed unit ?

Glenn


  #5   Report Post  
Old September 10th 03, 10:45 PM
IMM
 
Posts: n/a
Default Potterton Puma 80 Combi


"glenn" wrote in message
.. .

"IMM" wrote in message
...

The sludge could cause the problem - in which case you will need to get
everything cleared out in due course.

If there was so much air in the system to cause this problem then it
would also cause HW problems - chekc the auto air bleed unit is working
and its dust cap is open.


And fit a strainer in the CH return pipe with a full bore valve either
side.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.507 / Virus Database: 304 - Release Date: 04/08/2003



Is there any reliable way to test the air bleed unit ?


It usually has a shrader valve on the top. While the system is off press
this down. If air comes out then it is malfunctioning. It should
automatically vent air out of then system.


---
--

Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.507 / Virus Database: 304 - Release Date: 04/08/2003




  #6   Report Post  
Old September 10th 03, 10:58 PM
glenn
 
Posts: n/a
Default Potterton Puma 80 Combi

Is there any reliable way to test the air bleed unit ?

It usually has a shrader valve on the top. While the system is off press
this down. If air comes out then it is malfunctioning. It should
automatically vent air out of then system.


---
--

Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.507 / Virus Database: 304 - Release Date: 04/08/2003


Thanks, will check this out.

Glenn


  #7   Report Post  
Old September 10th 03, 11:14 PM
IMM
 
Posts: n/a
Default Potterton Puma 80 Combi


"glenn" wrote in message
.. .

Is there any reliable way to test the air bleed unit ?

It usually has a shrader valve on the top. While the system is off

press
this down. If air comes out then it is malfunctioning. It should
automatically vent air out of then system.


Thanks, will check this out.


The better auto air vents can be changed without a drain down. If you
change the vent get one of these.


---
--

Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.507 / Virus Database: 304 - Release Date: 04/08/2003


  #8   Report Post  
Old September 11th 03, 07:53 PM
IMM
 
Posts: n/a
Default Potterton Puma 80 Combi


"John" wrote in message
...

"glenn" wrote in message
.. .
Is there any reliable way to test the air bleed unit ?

It usually has a shrader valve on the top. While the system is off

press
this down. If air comes out then it is malfunctioning. It should
automatically vent air out of then system.


Thanks, will check this out.

Glenn


Not all auto air vents have a schrader valve
on them,


You are obviously hard of thinking/reading. I "usually".

however most expansion vessels do.


Asute observation our unqualified excet for a CORGI certificate cowboy.

Please be sure you are looking at the auto air vent
and not the expansion vessel before poking around
or you may lose some of your expansion "cushion"
with ensuing problems. (Sorry if I'm teching
granny to suck eggs but international mouth of
dysentery takes his info from catalogues and
adverts


In your dreams cowboy.

and can lead you down the wrong track all too
easily)


Keep cleaning the boilers, that is all the likes of you are fit for. BTW,
is the fish smell strong in Grimsby today?



---
--

Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.507 / Virus Database: 304 - Release Date: 04/08/2003


  #9   Report Post  
Old September 11th 03, 10:44 PM
geoff
 
Posts: n/a
Default Potterton Puma 80 Combi

In message , IMM
writes

"John" wrote in message
...


Not all auto air vents have a schrader valve
on them,


You are obviously hard of thinking/reading. I "usually".

however most expansion vessels do.


Asute observation our unqualified excet for a CORGI certificate cowboy.

Please be sure you are looking at the auto air vent
and not the expansion vessel before poking around
or you may lose some of your expansion "cushion"
with ensuing problems. (Sorry if I'm teching
granny to suck eggs but international mouth of
dysentery takes his info from catalogues and
adverts


In your dreams cowboy.

and can lead you down the wrong track all too
easily)


Keep cleaning the boilers, that is all the likes of you are fit for. BTW,
is the fish smell strong in Grimsby today?

You really are a complete ****** IMM aren't you
--
geoff
  #10   Report Post  
Old September 12th 03, 12:40 AM
Ed Sirett
 
Posts: n/a
Default Potterton Puma 80 Combi

IMM wrote:

Thanks, will check this out.


The better auto air vents can be changed without a drain down. If you
change the vent get one of these.

Steady there.
By no means all types of auto air vents have schrader valves.
Also replacing parts on any gas appliance with anything other than an
manufacturer's original spare part or upgrade kit is contrary to the
regs. Ergo it's illegal, however innocent or well meaning your
'improvement' might be.

--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html


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