I need to remove a lot of grout between tiles and regrout with
waterproof grout. Does anyone know of a cheap rotary tool that can do
this. Those Fien Multimaster tools look like they can do the job with a
frighteningly high price. There must be a chep DIY effort around that
can do a similar job. Those rotozip type of tools look like they could
wander and cut into the tile, so I am ruling those out.

TIA.

wrote:

I need to remove a lot of grout between tiles and regrout with
waterproof grout. Does anyone know of a cheap rotary tool that can do
this. Those Fien Multimaster tools look like they can do the job with a
frighteningly high price. There must be a chep DIY effort around that
can do a similar job. Those rotozip type of tools look like they could
wander and cut into the tile, so I am ruling those out.

TIA.

I doubt anything would do it. A bradawl will break and clear out grout
out in under 10 seconds per side of tile. Just run it back and forth
acrosst he grout, pressing down enough to break the surface up as it
goes. Very fast. Just dont make the common mistake of using it like a
toothpick, thats silly slow.


NT

On 2006-11-04 00:34:58 +0000, said:

I need to remove a lot of grout between tiles and regrout with
waterproof grout. Does anyone know of a cheap rotary tool that can do
this.
Those Fien Multimaster tools look like they can do the job with a
frighteningly high price.

I have one of these (the manufacturer is Fein, BTW) and the price isn't
frighteningly high at all. It's probably my most used power tool
because of its versatility and worth every penny. They now have a
starter version, without many accessories for just over £80.

I've used it for grout removal with the segment saw blade

http://www.fein.de/corp/uk/en/multimaster/tile.html

It's well controllable in terms of speed and because of being a fine
oscillation tool there is no problem with wandering.

In comparison with making a ******** of the job with some cheap and
unsuitable tool and having to replace the tiles, it is very inexpensive
and frankly would pay for itself on one job. Then you would have a
tool that would get a lot of use.


There must be a chep DIY effort around that
can do a similar job.

I don't think so, and I've looked. Fein hold a set of patents on
several aspects of the Multimaster.

Those rotozip type of tools look like they could
wander and cut into the tile, so I am ruling those out.

That's exactly the issue. Dremel do a grout removing kit for their
little tools. I've used one and it is both slow and does not do as
neat a job as the Multimaster.




TIA.

wrote:
I need to remove a lot of grout between tiles and regrout with
waterproof grout.

Why? All grout is relatively waterproof, especially on vertical
surfaces. What are the symptoms?
A bitch of a job, even with a grout rake.


Does anyone know of a cheap rotary tool that can do
this. Those Fien Multimaster tools look like they can do the job with a
frighteningly high price. There must be a chep DIY effort around that
can do a similar job. Those rotozip type of tools look like they could
wander and cut into the tile, so I am ruling those out.

TIA.

wrote:
I need to remove a lot of grout between tiles and regrout with
waterproof grout. Does anyone know of a cheap rotary tool that can do
this. Those Fien Multimaster tools look like they can do the job with a
frighteningly high price. There must be a chep DIY effort around that
can do a similar job. Those rotozip type of tools look like they could
wander and cut into the tile, so I am ruling those out.

TIA.

Brick acid and a scrubbing brush. Use rubber gloves.

wrote:
wrote:

I need to remove a lot of grout between tiles and regrout with
waterproof grout. Does anyone know of a cheap rotary tool that can do
this. Those Fien Multimaster tools look like they can do the job with a
frighteningly high price. There must be a chep DIY effort around that
can do a similar job. Those rotozip type of tools look like they could
wander and cut into the tile, so I am ruling those out.

TIA.

I doubt anything would do it. A bradawl will break and clear out grout
out in under 10 seconds per side of tile. Just run it back and forth
acrosst he grout, pressing down enough to break the surface up as it
goes. Very fast. Just dont make the common mistake of using it like a
toothpick, thats silly slow.


NT

If you're talking about wall tiles with 2mm or so spacing, I agree - an
awl or a bradawl will both do the job quite effectively. One proviso -
some combinations of steel and glaze will allow the tool to leave
pencil-like lines on the glaze, which are IME almost impossible to
remove. Depending on the profile of the tool and the tile edge profile,
these marks may be visible after re-grouting. It hardly needs saying
that it's a good idea to test in the least conspicuous area first.

However, since you're considering using a power tool, I guess you're
talking about floor tiles with a somewhat larger spacing...

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Brick acid and a scrubbing brush. Use rubber gloves.

Alternatively, use thinners and a roughish cloth (preferably white) - I
use workshop towels.
I have found this works well. Ensure good ventilation of course.

CRB

wrote:
I need to remove a lot of grout between tiles and regrout with
waterproof grout.

These things are incredibly effective & very cheap
http://www.toolstation.com/search.ht...str=grout+rake Toolstation
part number 36471


--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

On Sat, 04 Nov 2006 09:22:22 +0000, OxSc wrote:

One proviso - some combinations of steel and glaze will allow the tool
to leave pencil-like lines on the glaze, which are IME almost
impossible to remove.

Tried Bar Keepers Friend? Removes the "pencil" marks left by stainless
steel cooking tools on white glazed cookware.

--
Cheers
Dave. pam is missing e-mail

Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Sat, 04 Nov 2006 09:22:22 +0000, OxSc wrote:

One proviso - some combinations of steel and glaze will allow the tool
to leave pencil-like lines on the glaze, which are IME almost
impossible to remove.

Tried Bar Keepers Friend? Removes the "pencil" marks left by stainless
steel cooking tools on white glazed cookware.

Dave,

I have never heard of it. Where do you get it?

The Medway Handyman wrote:
wrote:
I need to remove a lot of grout between tiles and regrout with
waterproof grout.

These things are incredibly effective & very cheap
http://www.toolstation.com/search.ht...str=grout+rake Toolstation
part number 36471

Dave,

Thanks, would the likes of B&Q sell this?

Stuart Noble wrote:
wrote:
I need to remove a lot of grout between tiles and regrout with
waterproof grout.

Why? All grout is relatively waterproof, especially on vertical
surfaces. What are the symptoms?
A bitch of a job, even with a grout rake.

Water is leaking through the tiles, the grout, to the ceiling below.
The tiles are top quality and look well and it is a shame to get rid
of. The only other quick option is to tile over the tiles, which is an
expensive thing to do.

On 5 Nov 2006 05:48:10 -0800, wrote:


Stuart Noble wrote:
wrote:
I need to remove a lot of grout between tiles and regrout with
waterproof grout.

Why? All grout is relatively waterproof, especially on vertical
surfaces. What are the symptoms?
A bitch of a job, even with a grout rake.

Water is leaking through the tiles, the grout, to the ceiling below.
The tiles are top quality and look well and it is a shame to get rid
of. The only other quick option is to tile over the tiles, which is an
expensive thing to do.

Hi,

IME a wallpaper steamer with nozzle will soften grout, also might be
worth grinding down a cheap screwdriver for scraping the grout out.

AIUI the tile cement should form a waterproof barrier, if this is a
tiled floor then renewing the grout may not be enough.

cheers,
Pete.

wrote:
Stuart Noble wrote:
wrote:
I need to remove a lot of grout between tiles and regrout with
waterproof grout.
Why? All grout is relatively waterproof, especially on vertical
surfaces. What are the symptoms?
A bitch of a job, even with a grout rake.

Water is leaking through the tiles, the grout, to the ceiling below.
The tiles are top quality and look well and it is a shame to get rid
of. The only other quick option is to tile over the tiles, which is an
expensive thing to do.


So this is a bath/shower?
Tiling usually only lets water at the bottom of a run where the tiles
meet the bath edge or shower tray i.e. where the water hits its first
horizontal obstruction and has time to sit and soak. Don't rush into
anything.

On 5 Nov 2006 05:42:40 -0800, wrote:

Tried Bar Keepers Friend?

I have never heard of it. Where do you get it?

Asda stock it or at least thats where I bought the last lot, Tesco don't.
Truncated plastic conical packaging

http://www.homecareproducts.co.uk/bkf.htm

The http://www.barkeepersfriend.com/ site shows US packaging and prices.

--
Cheers
Dave. pam is missing e-mail

Stuart Noble wrote:
wrote:
Stuart Noble wrote:
wrote:
I need to remove a lot of grout between tiles and regrout with
waterproof grout.
Why? All grout is relatively waterproof, especially on vertical
surfaces. What are the symptoms?
A bitch of a job, even with a grout rake.

Water is leaking through the tiles, the grout, to the ceiling below.
The tiles are top quality and look well and it is a shame to get rid
of. The only other quick option is to tile over the tiles, which is an
expensive thing to do.


So this is a bath/shower?

A shower. There is definately a crack around a few tiles that water is
getting through. I know that hairline cracks can let water through. The
tray to tile join has a silicon seal and that looks in good condition
and not allowing water through. I want to do "all" of the tiles and
remove and reseal the silicon to be sure.

Pete C wrote:
On 5 Nov 2006 05:48:10 -0800, wrote:


Stuart Noble wrote:
wrote:
I need to remove a lot of grout between tiles and regrout with
waterproof grout.

Why? All grout is relatively waterproof, especially on vertical
surfaces. What are the symptoms?
A bitch of a job, even with a grout rake.

Water is leaking through the tiles, the grout, to the ceiling below.
The tiles are top quality and look well and it is a shame to get rid
of. The only other quick option is to tile over the tiles, which is an
expensive thing to do.

Hi,

IME a wallpaper steamer with nozzle will soften grout, also might be
worth grinding down a cheap screwdriver for scraping the grout out.

AIUI the tile cement should form a waterproof barrier, if this is a
tiled floor then renewing the grout may not be enough.

cheers,
Pete.

Thanks for that. I never thought of a steamer. How long does it take
to get soft?

On 5 Nov 2006 08:11:12 -0800, wrote:

Hi,

IME a wallpaper steamer with nozzle will soften grout, also might be
worth grinding down a cheap screwdriver for scraping the grout out.

AIUI the tile cement should form a waterproof barrier, if this is a
tiled floor then renewing the grout may not be enough.

cheers,
Pete.

Thanks for that. I never thought of a steamer. How long does it take
to get soft?

Not that long, I've steam cleaned grout and it came off onto the
scourer rather easily.

While the grout is out you could try getting some exterior PVA in
between the tiles to help seal any cracks in the tile cement.

cheers,
Pete.

Pete C wrote:
On 5 Nov 2006 08:11:12 -0800, wrote:

Hi,

IME a wallpaper steamer with nozzle will soften grout, also might be
worth grinding down a cheap screwdriver for scraping the grout out.

AIUI the tile cement should form a waterproof barrier, if this is a
tiled floor then renewing the grout may not be enough.

cheers,
Pete.

Thanks for that. I never thought of a steamer. How long does it take
to get soft?

Not that long, I've steam cleaned grout and it came off onto the
scourer rather easily.

While the grout is out you could try getting some exterior PVA in
between the tiles to help seal any cracks in the tile cement.

cheers,
Pete.

Thanks. How long does the PVA need to dry? Goes the grout stick to the
PVA well? Do Wickes, etc, sell exterior grade PVA.

In article . com,
writes:
Pete C wrote:
While the grout is out you could try getting some exterior PVA in
between the tiles to help seal any cracks in the tile cement.

Thanks. How long does the PVA need to dry? Goes the grout stick to the
PVA well? Do Wickes, etc, sell exterior grade PVA.

Exterior PVA (EVA) is only waterproof when mixed in cement/mortar.
I don't think it will do much good painted on like that.

Use a waterproofing additive in the grout, such as BAL Admix GT1
(which probably contains EVA and plasticiser).

--
Andrew Gabriel

Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article . com,
writes:
Pete C wrote:
While the grout is out you could try getting some exterior PVA in
between the tiles to help seal any cracks in the tile cement.

Thanks. How long does the PVA need to dry? Goes the grout stick to the
PVA well? Do Wickes, etc, sell exterior grade PVA.

Exterior PVA (EVA) is only waterproof when mixed in cement/mortar.
I don't think it will do much good painted on like that.

Use a waterproofing additive in the grout, such as BAL Admix GT1
(which probably contains EVA and plasticiser).

--
Andrew Gabriel

Would pre-mixed lablelled "waterproof" grout be suitable. It that
pre-mixed to the right formula? Does it do what they say? Will it keep
water out? I was told and read that normal grout is not waterproof.

The "Goes" in my post above is a typo, it should be "Does".