This is my first lathe and I am having trouble with using a cut-off tool. I
usually am cutting of mild steel, although I've tried stainless, brass, and
some junkyard shafts. The diameter ranges from 6" to 1". On almost every
cut I have the cut-off tool popping at times and chattering at other times.
All of my cuts look as though I used a machete and chopping motions while
the lathe rotated.
I have made sure the tool is 90 degrees to the work, that the tool meets the
work at or just below even with the center, and that everything is tight. I
have broken a few cutoff tools, and once hit the wall over 20 feet away with
the broken piece. (Yes, I wear safety glasses). I am using a tool by
Wholesale Tool (wttool.com), page 156 of their latest catalogue. It is a
"P-Shaped M-2 cut off blade". Specifically, the P4 - 5/32X11/16X5. I flood
the cutting area with oil. I have tried almost every speed on the lathe -
roughly 150 to 450 RPM. My lathe is a Reed-Prentice 16X54, and the
toolholder is an oriental Alorix knock-off. I've used a new 15" four jaw
and a 8" three jaw chuck.
What do I check/change?

Jim Reed wrote:

This is my first lathe and I am having trouble with using a cut-off tool. I
usually am cutting of mild steel, although I've tried stainless, brass, and
some junkyard shafts. The diameter ranges from 6" to 1". On almost every
cut I have the cut-off tool popping at times and chattering at other times.
All of my cuts look as though I used a machete and chopping motions while
the lathe rotated.
I have made sure the tool is 90 degrees to the work, that the tool meets the
work at or just below even with the center, and that everything is tight. I
have broken a few cutoff tools, and once hit the wall over 20 feet away with
the broken piece. (Yes, I wear safety glasses). I am using a tool by
Wholesale Tool (wttool.com), page 156 of their latest catalogue. It is a
"P-Shaped M-2 cut off blade". Specifically, the P4 - 5/32X11/16X5. I flood
the cutting area with oil. I have tried almost every speed on the lathe -
roughly 150 to 450 RPM. My lathe is a Reed-Prentice 16X54, and the
toolholder is an oriental Alorix knock-off. I've used a new 15" four jaw
and a 8" three jaw chuck.
What do I check/change?




Your best bet is a carbide insert. Costs a bit more but the results will
be sure to satisfy. The tool holder has a blade with a notch on the end
the insert presses into and can be replaced by popping out with a tool
included.
These inserts have a geometry with folds the chips, making them smaller
than the groove being cut. It makes for a free cutting action and
prevents chips from building up in the cut.

Fred

try making your cutoff cut wider than your tool before your cutoff
groove gets too deep in the material. for example, poke your cutoff
tool into the material .025, then move the tool over about .050 then go
another .025, then move back and poke in another .025 so your groove
is .050 wider than the tool to allow relief so the material doesnt
pinch the tool. also use lots of cutting oil and make sure your tool
is sharp.

if you can use a saw instead, It would probably be better



Jim Reed wrote:
This is my first lathe and I am having trouble with using a cut-off tool. I
usually am cutting of mild steel, although I've tried stainless, brass, and
some junkyard shafts. The diameter ranges from 6" to 1". On almost every
cut I have the cut-off tool popping at times and chattering at other times.
All of my cuts look as though I used a machete and chopping motions while
the lathe rotated.
I have made sure the tool is 90 degrees to the work, that the tool meets the
work at or just below even with the center, and that everything is tight. I
have broken a few cutoff tools, and once hit the wall over 20 feet away with
the broken piece. (Yes, I wear safety glasses). I am using a tool by
Wholesale Tool (wttool.com), page 156 of their latest catalogue. It is a
"P-Shaped M-2 cut off blade". Specifically, the P4 - 5/32X11/16X5. I flood
the cutting area with oil. I have tried almost every speed on the lathe -
roughly 150 to 450 RPM. My lathe is a Reed-Prentice 16X54, and the
toolholder is an oriental Alorix knock-off. I've used a new 15" four jaw
and a 8" three jaw chuck.
What do I check/change?

I agree with Fred, switching to carbide improved the situation. Do you
oil the cut? I find oil helps also.

Steve

Jim Reed wrote:

This is my first lathe and I am having trouble with using a cut-off tool. I
usually am cutting of mild steel, although I've tried stainless, brass, and
some junkyard shafts. The diameter ranges from 6" to 1". On almost every
cut I have the cut-off tool popping at times and chattering at other times.
All of my cuts look as though I used a machete and chopping motions while
the lathe rotated.
I have made sure the tool is 90 degrees to the work, that the tool meets the
work at or just below even with the center, and that everything is tight. I
have broken a few cutoff tools, and once hit the wall over 20 feet away with
the broken piece. (Yes, I wear safety glasses). I am using a tool by
Wholesale Tool (wttool.com), page 156 of their latest catalogue. It is a
"P-Shaped M-2 cut off blade". Specifically, the P4 - 5/32X11/16X5. I flood
the cutting area with oil. I have tried almost every speed on the lathe -
roughly 150 to 450 RPM. My lathe is a Reed-Prentice 16X54, and the
toolholder is an oriental Alorix knock-off. I've used a new 15" four jaw
and a 8" three jaw chuck.
What do I check/change?

Jim Reed wrote:
This is my first lathe and I am having trouble with using a cut-off tool. I
usually am cutting of mild steel, although I've tried stainless, brass, and
some junkyard shafts. The diameter ranges from 6" to 1". On almost every
cut I have the cut-off tool popping at times and chattering at other times.
All of my cuts look as though I used a machete and chopping motions while
the lathe rotated.
I have made sure the tool is 90 degrees to the work, that the tool meets the
work at or just below even with the center, and that everything is tight. I
have broken a few cutoff tools, and once hit the wall over 20 feet away with
the broken piece. (Yes, I wear safety glasses). I am using a tool by
Wholesale Tool (wttool.com), page 156 of their latest catalogue. It is a
"P-Shaped M-2 cut off blade". Specifically, the P4 - 5/32X11/16X5. I flood
the cutting area with oil. I have tried almost every speed on the lathe -
roughly 150 to 450 RPM. My lathe is a Reed-Prentice 16X54, and the
toolholder is an oriental Alorix knock-off. I've used a new 15" four jaw
and a 8" three jaw chuck.
What do I check/change?


As a last resort--turn the tool/holder upside down & run the lathe
backwards----it works.....use same tool/work geometry only upside down..

"Jim Reed" wrote in message
...
This is my first lathe and I am having trouble with using a cut-off tool.
I usually am cutting of mild steel, although I've tried stainless, brass,
and some junkyard shafts. The diameter ranges from 6" to 1". On almost
every cut I have the cut-off tool popping at times and chattering at other
times. All of my cuts look as though I used a machete and chopping motions
while the lathe rotated.
I have made sure the tool is 90 degrees to the work, that the tool meets
the work at or just below even with the center, and that everything is
tight. I have broken a few cutoff tools, and once hit the wall over 20
feet away with the broken piece. (Yes, I wear safety glasses). I am
using a tool by Wholesale Tool (wttool.com), page 156 of their latest
catalogue. It is a "P-Shaped M-2 cut off blade". Specifically, the P4 -
5/32X11/16X5. I flood the cutting area with oil. I have tried almost
every speed on the lathe - roughly 150 to 450 RPM. My lathe is a
Reed-Prentice 16X54, and the toolholder is an oriental Alorix knock-off.
I've used a new 15" four jaw and a 8" three jaw chuck.
What do I check/change?

I'm not familiar with the Alorix, is it ridgid? Carbide is the answer I'd
bet if you have the ridgidity. I use a big-assed QC post with as short as
possible carbide cut-off tool, very slow feed with flood oil...and it still
scares the crap out of me. I prefer to saw! That Reed-Prentice is a
WONDERFULL chunk of iron! I thought I had the only one. Would you have a
book on it?

I have had far better results with parting of tool inserts than solid
tools.
I part of 6" bar at 400-600rpm on my herbert with no problems but with
the same tool on a smaller lathe it chattered like hell. my best result
on the smaller lathe was having the tool just below centre and finding
the right speed by trial and error, and yes it only worked on one of 12
speeds on this lathe.
Ron
Jim Reed wrote:
This is my first lathe and I am having trouble with using a cut-off tool. I
usually am cutting of mild steel, although I've tried stainless, brass, and
some junkyard shafts. The diameter ranges from 6" to 1". On almost every
cut I have the cut-off tool popping at times and chattering at other times.
All of my cuts look as though I used a machete and chopping motions while
the lathe rotated.
I have made sure the tool is 90 degrees to the work, that the tool meets the
work at or just below even with the center, and that everything is tight. I
have broken a few cutoff tools, and once hit the wall over 20 feet away with
the broken piece. (Yes, I wear safety glasses). I am using a tool by
Wholesale Tool (wttool.com), page 156 of their latest catalogue. It is a
"P-Shaped M-2 cut off blade". Specifically, the P4 - 5/32X11/16X5. I flood
the cutting area with oil. I have tried almost every speed on the lathe -
roughly 150 to 450 RPM. My lathe is a Reed-Prentice 16X54, and the
toolholder is an oriental Alorix knock-off. I've used a new 15" four jaw
and a 8" three jaw chuck.
What do I check/change?

On Sat, 13 May 2006 22:31:48 -0500, jerry wass
wrote:

Jim Reed wrote:
This is my first lathe and I am having trouble with using a cut-off tool. I
usually am cutting of mild steel, although I've tried stainless, brass, and
some junkyard shafts. The diameter ranges from 6" to 1". On almost every
cut I have the cut-off tool popping at times and chattering at other times.
All of my cuts look as though I used a machete and chopping motions while
the lathe rotated.
I have made sure the tool is 90 degrees to the work, that the tool meets the
work at or just below even with the center, and that everything is tight. I
have broken a few cutoff tools, and once hit the wall over 20 feet away with
the broken piece. (Yes, I wear safety glasses). I am using a tool by
Wholesale Tool (wttool.com), page 156 of their latest catalogue. It is a
"P-Shaped M-2 cut off blade". Specifically, the P4 - 5/32X11/16X5. I flood
the cutting area with oil. I have tried almost every speed on the lathe -
roughly 150 to 450 RPM. My lathe is a Reed-Prentice 16X54, and the
toolholder is an oriental Alorix knock-off. I've used a new 15" four jaw
and a 8" three jaw chuck.
What do I check/change?


As a last resort--turn the tool/holder upside down & run the lathe
backwards----it works.....use same tool/work geometry only upside down..

This is the first thing Id do. The "popping and chattering" indicates
to me that something is seriously loose or the machine isnt rigid
enough..so running it on the opposite side of the machine tends to
tighten things up on a sloppy floppy lathe.

The centerline issue is also something that may cause this.

What kind of lathe is it?

Gunner

The aim of untold millions is to be free to do exactly as they choose
and for someone else to pay when things go wrong.

In the past few decades, a peculiar and distinctive psychology
has emerged in England. Gone are the civility, sturdy independence,
and admirable stoicism that carried the English through the war years
.. It has been replaced by a constant whine of excuses, complaints,
and special pleading. The collapse of the British character has been
as swift and complete as the collapse of British power.

Theodore Dalrymple,

All of those suggestions help. Turning the blade upside down sounds
counter-intuitive, as it seems as though it would be far less rigid,
but it's worked for me. Maybe it has something to to with the chips
clearing the groove more easily.

Sorry, my typing is atrocious (spelling is bad too.). It's an Aloris
knock-off.

"Tom Gardner" wrote in message
t...

"Jim Reed" wrote in message
...
This is my first lathe and I am having trouble with using a cut-off tool.
I usually am cutting of mild steel, although I've tried stainless, brass,
and some junkyard shafts. The diameter ranges from 6" to 1". On almost
every cut I have the cut-off tool popping at times and chattering at
other times. All of my cuts look as though I used a machete and chopping
motions while the lathe rotated.
I have made sure the tool is 90 degrees to the work, that the tool meets
the work at or just below even with the center, and that everything is
tight. I have broken a few cutoff tools, and once hit the wall over 20
feet away with the broken piece. (Yes, I wear safety glasses). I am
using a tool by Wholesale Tool (wttool.com), page 156 of their latest
catalogue. It is a "P-Shaped M-2 cut off blade". Specifically, the P4 -
5/32X11/16X5. I flood the cutting area with oil. I have tried almost
every speed on the lathe - roughly 150 to 450 RPM. My lathe is a
Reed-Prentice 16X54, and the toolholder is an oriental Alorix knock-off.
I've used a new 15" four jaw and a 8" three jaw chuck.
What do I check/change?

I'm not familiar with the Alorix, is it ridgid? Carbide is the answer I'd
bet if you have the ridgidity. I use a big-assed QC post with as short as
possible carbide cut-off tool, very slow feed with flood oil...and it
still scares the crap out of me. I prefer to saw! That Reed-Prentice is
a WONDERFULL chunk of iron! I thought I had the only one. Would you have
a book on it?

On 14 May 2006 03:01:25 -0700, "cbruce" wrote:

All of those suggestions help. Turning the blade upside down sounds
counter-intuitive, as it seems as though it would be far less rigid,
but it's worked for me. Maybe it has something to to with the chips
clearing the groove more easily.

Upside down and on the Backside of the lathe, not the front.

Here is something that may help, from a gent (God rest his soul) that
really knew his ****....

http://yarchive.net/metal/parting_off.html

From: Robert Bastow
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Parting tool use and questions?
Date: Sun, 06 Aug 2000 12:33:17 GMT

wrote:

In article ,
wrote:
I have never given any thought to using a parting tool, as everyone I
know always shys away from their use, and goes to the saw, makes the
cut and then uses the lathe to face the sawed face. I broke mine out
and figured since I bought it, may as well give it a try...I use an
ALoris BXA tool post, and have a ISCAR parting tool blade
holder....which takes the standard 1/8" HSS parting tool.

I then tried using the power feed, and viola...no chatter, and it made
the chips come off in a tight unending coiled piece of metal, just
like what you get if you opened a can of spam with those metal keys.
Is this the way the parting tool shold make chips. I had a notch
ground in the end for a chip breaker, but it just made nice tight
curls, and a super finish. I did use water soluable cutting fluid,
during the process. I was cutting 1 1/8" roundstock with a 1/2" bore.
Foxeye


Sounds like you are on the right path and you are getting some good
advise here from the group. The one thing I would add is on lathes that
have the Aloris style tool holder. The first thing I do is put the
parting tool in and line the parting tool. Even if I am not going to
use it on the job I am doing, because on the next job I might. It's a
real pain to have stops set and go to part and find the tool isn't
lined up. Then it's setting up everything all over again. I usually
line up the parting tool to the face of the chuck or chuck jaw. Which
ever is the easyist to see.
It's really funny that the parting tool use has taken over as being
the black art that no one seems to understand. I remember the time when
every one thought that way about CNC.
Just remember to keep your material as close to the chuck as you can
to reduce the flexing of your material. Also keep your parting tool as
short as possible which makes it more rigid and reduses chatter.

Richard W.


Sound advice from Richard..to which I would add this:

Most people treat the pre-ground HSS parting blades as a finished
tool, ready
for use. It is NOT! No more than a ground, square, HSS tool bit is a
ready to
use tool.

Parting tools NEED side clearance. This must be ground into the blade
before
use. When re-sharpening has reduced the length of useable blade below
the
radius of the piece to be parted off..start again! Snap or grind off
the short
end and regrind side clearance on a new section. Fer Chrissakes..new
blades are
cheap enough to buy!

Lets belay all this crap about whether the blade should be at, above
or below
center. ANY and EVERY lathe tool should be set at dead center
height..PERIOD.
If you get better results by not doing so..you are doing something
WRONG and
need to re-examine the geometry of your tool bit.

Unless you are parting off SMALL diameters, and wish to reduce or
eliminate the
center "Pip", the nose of the tool should be ground SQUARE to the
body. Any
angle to the nose will, invariably, deflect the blade to one side,
during deep
cuts..resulting in binding, rough finish, non-flat surfaces or
breakage.

More importantly, an angled cutting edge produces a chip WIDER than
the
slot..how the hell do you expect this to escape freely from the cut?
Better,
even than a square grind, is a slight radius, or as I use a broad
"Vee" shape to
the nose..This flows the chip in on itself, producing chips that are
noticeably
narrower than the cut and which clear the slot easily. If you want to
add belt
to suspenders, use a tiny mounted point to grind a shallow, radiused
groove
LENGTHWISE in the top face of the tool. Examine a carbide, inserted
parting
tool tip, to get an idea of the best geometry to achieve.

Chatter is reduced by INCREASING feed! Power feed will give best
results.

Rigidity of the entire set up is next to Godliness! Lock all slides
not in use.

Normal cutting speeds are the rule..Reduce ONLY if your rigidity is
suspect.

Reduce overhang to a minimum..both in the tool setup and the
workpiece.

Avoid Lantern type tool posts and Armstrong tool holders like the
plague.
Especially the angled parting tool holders..the worst abomination ever
foisted
on unsuspecting machinists. If you can't afford a rigid tool
post..MAKE one!

Rear mounted toolposts have definite advantages..Deflection of the
tool or
workpiece tends to lift the cutting edge OUT of the cut, rather than
forcing it
deeper...this by dint of the geometry involved. Mounting the parting
tool
upside down, in the front tool post, and running in revers, has the
same
effect. This same arrangement works wonders with broad form tools
too.

Part off as close to the chuck as possible.

If a long overhang is unavoidable, or the parted off piece is
relatively
long..use GENTLE pressure from the tailstock to prevent whipping and
chatter.
Remove this just before final breakthrough or you may get a jam up.
Judicious
use of a fixed steady, a wedge of wood 'twixt toolpost and job, or,
(dare I say
it,) a well lubed hand, (NO GLOVES PLEASE!!) will also help to reduce
chatter in
these circumstances.

Lubrication is a MUST except on free cutting brass and MAYBE good
grades of grey
iron.

Drip feed or flood lubrication..matters not. Just bear in mind that a
happy
parting tool sounds like frying bacon. The instant it starts sounding
grouchy..add more lube.

Happy partings..

8^)

teenut
The aim of untold millions is to be free to do exactly as they choose
and for someone else to pay when things go wrong.

In the past few decades, a peculiar and distinctive psychology
has emerged in England. Gone are the civility, sturdy independence,
and admirable stoicism that carried the English through the war years
.. It has been replaced by a constant whine of excuses, complaints,
and special pleading. The collapse of the British character has been
as swift and complete as the collapse of British power.

Theodore Dalrymple,

I also tend to answer letters before they're finished. I have a photocopy
of the manual from the people at the Yahoo Reed-Prentice user group. I
don't know if there are any left. We have been bantering around the idea of
getting it on the 'net so all can have one. Just haven't found the perfect
avenue yet.

"Tom Gardner" wrote in message
t...

"Jim Reed" wrote in message
...
This is my first lathe and I am having trouble with using a cut-off tool.
I usually am cutting of mild steel, although I've tried stainless, brass,
and some junkyard shafts. The diameter ranges from 6" to 1". On almost
every cut I have the cut-off tool popping at times and chattering at
other times. All of my cuts look as though I used a machete and chopping
motions while the lathe rotated.
I have made sure the tool is 90 degrees to the work, that the tool meets
the work at or just below even with the center, and that everything is
tight. I have broken a few cutoff tools, and once hit the wall over 20
feet away with the broken piece. (Yes, I wear safety glasses). I am
using a tool by Wholesale Tool (wttool.com), page 156 of their latest
catalogue. It is a "P-Shaped M-2 cut off blade". Specifically, the P4 -
5/32X11/16X5. I flood the cutting area with oil. I have tried almost
every speed on the lathe - roughly 150 to 450 RPM. My lathe is a
Reed-Prentice 16X54, and the toolholder is an oriental Alorix knock-off.
I've used a new 15" four jaw and a 8" three jaw chuck.
What do I check/change?

I'm not familiar with the Alorix, is it ridgid? Carbide is the answer I'd
bet if you have the ridgidity. I use a big-assed QC post with as short as
possible carbide cut-off tool, very slow feed with flood oil...and it
still scares the crap out of me. I prefer to saw! That Reed-Prentice is
a WONDERFULL chunk of iron! I thought I had the only one. Would you have
a book on it?

"Jim Reed" wrote in message
...
I also tend to answer letters before they're finished. I have a photocopy
of the manual from the people at the Yahoo Reed-Prentice user group. I
don't know if there are any left. We have been bantering around the idea
of getting it on the 'net so all can have one. Just haven't found the
perfect avenue yet.

OMG...will trade brushes!

"Gunner" wrote in message
...

http://yarchive.net/metal/parting_off.html


Solid Gold!

jerry wass writes:

Jim Reed wrote:
This is my first lathe and I am having trouble with using a cut-off
tool. I usually am cutting of mild steel, although I've tried
stainless, brass, and some junkyard shafts. The diameter ranges from
6" to 1". On almost every cut I have the cut-off tool popping at
times and chattering at other times. All of my cuts look as though I
used a machete and chopping motions while the lathe rotated.
I have made sure the tool is 90 degrees to the work, that the tool
meets the work at or just below even with the center, and that
everything is tight. I have broken a few cutoff tools, and once hit
the wall over 20 feet away with the broken piece. (Yes, I wear safety
glasses). I am using a tool by Wholesale Tool (wttool.com), page 156
of their latest catalogue. It is a "P-Shaped M-2 cut off
blade". Specifically, the P4 - 5/32X11/16X5. I flood the cutting
area with oil. I have tried almost every speed on the lathe -
roughly 150 to 450 RPM. My lathe is a Reed-Prentice 16X54, and the
toolholder is an oriental Alorix knock-off. I've used a new 15" four
jaw and a 8" three jaw chuck.
What do I check/change?
As a last resort--turn the tool/holder upside down & run the lathe
backwards----it works.....use same tool/work geometry only upside down..

Check cross-slide backlash, any present turns directly into a
depth-of-cut if the work sucks in the parting tool- which happens easily
even if you're careful with height and rake. If your cross-feed has
more than a few thousanths of backlash, I'll bet a penny thats whats
happening.

My 12" American literally shattered the parting blade and bent a 1.5"
steel bar I was parting due to the (considerable) backlash- scared the
**** out of me. I have a length of acme and a new nut that I'll fit at
some point soon...

My little 6" Atlas has very little crossfeed backlash and parts fine.

Gregm

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions. It turns out my cutoff tool was
flexing. I guess I'm going to have to buy something thicker. The thickest
I have found is 1/4".
I moved the tool I have until only about 1.5" stuck out, and could cut .010
to .015 per rev., no problem at all. It just made beautiful curls. Oh, and
I stuck with automatic feed. I would imagine if I tried to hand feed, I
would have problems with jamming around the tool like Tee-Nut implies. It
cuts so well on auto feed, I don't want to do it any other way.

"Tom Gardner" wrote in message
. com...

"Gunner" wrote in message
...

http://yarchive.net/metal/parting_off.html


Solid Gold!

Hi,
-
This is from my early days when I 1st started out working in a shop:
FREEHAND and on a 1920 Hendey.
-
You need to have your tool holder short as possible and a solid setup.
I always ground the under relief to the curve of the grinding wheel.
Flat on top. Perpendicular to the work and dead on centerline. Run
slow, not too fast. LOTS OF SULPHUR BASED OIL. I ease in to the
work, then I add a lot of handwheel pressure torque. Doing it freehand
it is a touchy-feely thing. Not too easy / not too heavy, but heavier
than you would think, steady, even pressure. Of course your machine's
ways/gibs need to be no slop there.
-
Now with NC tape or CNC, you can keep your surface feed rate constant as
the diameter is reduced, you can increase your speed. And if an
enclosed housing, you can run coolant as liberally as you wish to flush
away the chips and keep everything cool. And CNC tooling tends to be a
very solid setup.
-
The other thing to consider is use a good piece of tool bit tool
steel---USA, sorry. The import stuff is crap. Carbide insert tooling
and the appropriate holder will do better results but more $$.
-
One old fart told me to not let my chips get hotter than corn yellow as
to how to judge your speed. I realize serious production requires
powder blue chips, but if doing it freehand, that's another story.
-
-+-
Kurt

===============

-

Trouble with cut-off operation on lathe

Group: rec.crafts.metalworking Date: Sat, May 13, 2006, 7:58pm From:
(Jim*Reed)
This is my first lathe and I am having trouble with using a cut-off
tool. I usually am cutting of mild steel, although I've tried stainless,
brass, and some junkyard shafts. The diameter ranges from 6" to 1". On
almost every cut I have the cut-off tool popping at times and chattering
at other times. All of my cuts look as though I used a machete and
chopping motions while the lathe rotated.
I have made sure the tool is 90 degrees to the work, that the tool meets
the work at or just below even with the center, and that everything is
tight. I have broken a few cutoff tools, and once hit the wall over 20
feet away with the broken piece. (Yes, I wear safety glasses). I am
using a tool by Wholesale Tool (wttool.com), page 156 of their latest
catalogue. It is a "P-Shaped M-2 cut off blade". Specifically, the P4 -
5/32X11/16X5. I flood the cutting area with oil. I have tried almost
every speed on the lathe - roughly 150 to 450 RPM. My lathe is a
Reed-Prentice 16X54, and the toolholder is an oriental Alorix knock-off.
* I've used a new 15" four jaw and a 8" three jaw chuck.
What do I check/change?