The subject contains my question! Removed a radiator as I've just got a room plastered. I'm going to replace the radiator once I've painted the room. The lockshield valve and a Drayton RT212 TRV valve are still in place.

Is it safe to use the heating while the radiator is missing?

"Dysanovic" wrote in message
news

The subject contains my question! Removed a radiator as I've just got a
room plastered. I'm going to replace the radiator once I've painted the
room. The lockshield valve and a Drayton RT212 TRV valve are still in
place.

Is it safe to use the heating while the radiator is missing?




--
Dysanovic

Yes, assuming you have other radiators!

Sparks...

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Dysanovic wrote:

The subject contains my question! Removed a radiator as I've just got
a room plastered. I'm going to replace the radiator once I've painted
the room. The lockshield valve and a Drayton RT212 TRV valve are
still in place.

Is it safe to use the heating while the radiator is missing?

Yes, provided you drained *only* the radiator and not the pipework, prior to
removing it.

How did you go about draining it?

Be careful with the TRV - it may open and pee water out into the room if the
weather gets cold, even when turned to its minimum setting. Ideally, you
should remove the thermostatic head *before* draining the rad, and replace
it with a screw-cap which should have been supplied with the valve for this
very purpose. That will hold the pin firmly down whatever the temperature.
Alternatively, find something which will screw onto the outlet (i.e. with
the same thread as the radiator tail union) in order to seal it.
--
Cheers,
Roger
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Dysanovic wrote:
The subject contains my question! Removed a radiator as I've just got a
room plastered. I'm going to replace the radiator once I've painted the
room. The lockshield valve and a Drayton RT212 TRV valve are still in
place.

Is it safe to use the heating while the radiator is missing?


if it ain't leaking, yes.

Ideally, you should remove the thermostatic head *before* draining
the rad, and replace it with a screw-cap which should have been
supplied with the valve for this very purpose. That will hold the
pin firmly down whatever the temperature.

Also, some designs feature a genuine "off", where you twist another quarter
turn after passing the "0" frost setting.

Christian.

"Christian McArdle" wrote in message
.. .
Ideally, you should remove the thermostatic head *before* draining
the rad, and replace it with a screw-cap which should have been
supplied with the valve for this very purpose. That will hold the
pin firmly down whatever the temperature.

Also, some designs feature a genuine "off", where you twist another
quarter turn after passing the "0" frost setting.

Christian.

IF the valve doesn't have an 'OFF' position, place a penny under the
thermostatic head and over the pin- then the * = Frost setting will
positively close off the valve.

--

Brian

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Brian Sharrock wrote:

"Christian McArdle" wrote in
message .. .
Ideally, you should remove the thermostatic head *before* draining
the rad, and replace it with a screw-cap which should have been
supplied with the valve for this very purpose. That will hold the
pin firmly down whatever the temperature.

Also, some designs feature a genuine "off", where you twist another
quarter turn after passing the "0" frost setting.

Christian.

IF the valve doesn't have an 'OFF' position, place a penny under the
thermostatic head and over the pin- then the * = Frost setting will
positively close off the valve.


But bear in mind that fact the the radiator has *already* been removed - so
removing the head at this stage in order to insert packing will result in
the valve opening, and peeing forth lots of dirty brown water!
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
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monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

Also bear in mind that now that you have the rad off the risk of the
TRV peeing forth water is unrelated to whether you use the heating or
not, which was the original question. In fact using the heating is more
likely to keep the temperature of the room above the point where the
TRV will start to open.

Martin Pentreath wrote:
Also bear in mind that now that you have the rad off the risk of the
TRV peeing forth water is unrelated to whether you use the heating or
not, which was the original question. In fact using the heating is more
likely to keep the temperature of the room above the point where the
TRV will start to open.


You could always try and find some end caps that will fit the thread on
the tail adding extra protection. Does anyone know what thread they
are? Could be worth getting a couple in for that very reason.

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Richard Conway wrote:

Martin Pentreath wrote:
Also bear in mind that now that you have the rad off the risk of the
TRV peeing forth water is unrelated to whether you use the heating or
not, which was the original question. In fact using the heating is
more likely to keep the temperature of the room above the point
where the TRV will start to open.


You could always try and find some end caps that will fit the thread
on the tail adding extra protection. Does anyone know what thread
they are? Could be worth getting a couple in for that very reason.

There are at least 2 different ways for joining radiator tails to valves -
and the threads are different. The larger ones - employing a conical joint -
have a 3/4" BSP thread. The smaller ones - employing a conventional 15mm
compression joint with olive, have the same thread as a 15mm compression
joint - which is similar to 1/2" BSP, but not quite the same.
--
Cheers,
Roger
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I used central heating with a radiator removed. It worked fine for about 4-5 hours but now my Baxi Solo2 50PF boiler has stopped working ;( The fan is coming on but the pilot light is not igniting. One problem to the next