I am trying to drain down the water heating loop on the Aga - it is just the
same as an open vented central heating system in concept. I am trying to
decommission this now that water is heated by the much more effiecient
central heating boiler.

Anyway, I faound the drain point no problem - access is limited beacause it
is at arms length between the Aga and the next kitchen cupboard. It looks
like it has not been used for 20 years.

My problem is that I am unable to turn the valve head to open it. It is a
normal conventional drain cock with a square head of between 7mm and 8mm. I
have tried everything - 8mm spanner is just to big, can't get mole frips
onto it etc. Is there a special spanner made for this duty that I should
get?

There appears to be another drain point much higher up which I can access -
it would leave the Aga itself and some pipework (say 5m) full of water that
I guess would eventually boil away.

Any and all thoughts welcome (but lets not start a thread about Aga's v
other types of cooker).

Thanks

"hzatph" wrote:
I am trying to drain down the water heating loop on the Aga - it is just
the same as an open vented central heating system in concept. I am trying
to decommission this now that water is heated by the much more effiecient
central heating boiler.

Anyway, I faound the drain point no problem - access is limited beacause
it is at arms length between the Aga and the next kitchen cupboard. It
looks like it has not been used for 20 years.

My problem is that I am unable to turn the valve head to open it. It is a
normal conventional drain cock with a square head of between 7mm and 8mm.
I have tried everything - 8mm spanner is just to big, can't get mole frips
onto it etc. Is there a special spanner made for this duty that I should
get?

There appears to be another drain point much higher up which I can
access - it would leave the Aga itself and some pipework (say 5m) full of
water that I guess would eventually boil away.

Any and all thoughts welcome (but lets not start a thread about Aga's v
other types of cooker).

Thanks

I assume that this drain cock hasn't got a handle on it, if so, can you put
a handle on from another drain cock then turn the handle using an adjustable
spanner with its jaws opened to the width of the handle? If necessary, you
could fix the spanner to a short length of wood if reach is a problem. Or
find someone with a longer arm than yours.

On Sun, 15 Oct 2006 14:04:36 +0100, "hzatph" wrote:

I am trying to drain down the water heating loop on the Aga - it is just the
same as an open vented central heating system in concept. I am trying to
decommission this now that water is heated by the much more effiecient
central heating boiler.

Anyway, I faound the drain point no problem - access is limited beacause it
is at arms length between the Aga and the next kitchen cupboard. It looks
like it has not been used for 20 years.

My problem is that I am unable to turn the valve head to open it. It is a
normal conventional drain cock with a square head of between 7mm and 8mm. I
have tried everything - 8mm spanner is just to big, can't get mole frips
onto it etc. Is there a special spanner made for this duty that I should
get?

There appears to be another drain point much higher up which I can access -
it would leave the Aga itself and some pipework (say 5m) full of water that
I guess would eventually boil away.

Any and all thoughts welcome (but lets not start a thread about Aga's v
other types of cooker).

Thanks


Sounds like you need something like a water key but with a smaller end bit .

...I was wondering if you can get a socket on to it,maybe a double hexagon one
would fit and use an extension or more likely two extensions .Do you or a
neighbour or friend,relative have an socket set .Car mechanics or folk who do
their own car maintenance have them usually .


Stuart .

"Stuart" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 15 Oct 2006 14:04:36 +0100, "hzatph" wrote:

I am trying to drain down the water heating loop on the Aga - it is just
the
same as an open vented central heating system in concept. I am trying to
decommission this now that water is heated by the much more effiecient
central heating boiler.

Anyway, I faound the drain point no problem - access is limited beacause
it
is at arms length between the Aga and the next kitchen cupboard. It looks
like it has not been used for 20 years.

My problem is that I am unable to turn the valve head to open it. It is a
normal conventional drain cock with a square head of between 7mm and 8mm.
I
have tried everything - 8mm spanner is just to big, can't get mole frips
onto it etc. Is there a special spanner made for this duty that I should
get?

There appears to be another drain point much higher up which I can
access -
it would leave the Aga itself and some pipework (say 5m) full of water
that
I guess would eventually boil away.

Any and all thoughts welcome (but lets not start a thread about Aga's v
other types of cooker).

Thanks


Sounds like you need something like a water key but with a smaller end bit
..

...I was wondering if you can get a socket on to it,maybe a double
hexagon one
would fit and use an extension or more likely two extensions .Do you or
a
neighbour or friend,relative have an socket set .Car mechanics or folk who
do
their own car maintenance have them usually .


Stuart .

The drain cock on my heating system sounds similar and a 2BA open ended
spanner fits reasonably well. If you dont have one then a small adjustable
spanner might do the job.

Bob

Sounds like you need something like a water key but with a smaller end bit
.


That sounds like it - it is bigger than for a radiator bleed key.

...I was wondering if you can get a socket on to it,maybe a double hexagon
one
would fit and use an extension or more likely two extensions .Do you or
a
neighbour or friend,relative have an socket set .Car mechanics or folk who
do
their own car maintenance have them usually .


Stuart .

Tried a socket set - could not find one that gripped - they were either too
small or too loose.

A small adjustable may work - will ask around the neighbours. If I can get a
grip in the confined space I am fairly sure that I could get some leverage
on it.

The idea of handles from other fittings is interesting. Will have a look as
a couple of ideas come to mind.

Please keep the ideas flowing.

hzatph wrote:
Please keep the ideas flowing.

I recently bought a set of monobloc tap wrenches/spanners.
They are an absolute god-send... intended for tightening/loosening the
fixing nut that holds a tap onto a sink, they are great where space is
tight. They are like box spanners... a tube with a hexagonal socket at
the end and come in a range of sizes in the pack... not expensive
either, and you can always fabricate something to fit in the opposite
end to increase their length and give you better access.

here...
http://www.newtooleng.co.uk/Tap_Backnut_Spanners/12

Another suggestion would be to spray the thing with PlusGas a few hours
before you attempt to undo it and also, try doing it up a fraction
before undoing it to break any debris in the clockwise direction before
turning it anticlockwise... an old tip this, but it usually works for
me... if still stubborn, try banging the spanner with a hammer as you
turn it... again intended to loosen and break off any rust or
corrosion.

HTH

deano.,

hzatph wrote:
Sounds like you need something like a water key but with a smaller end bit
.


That sounds like it - it is bigger than for a radiator bleed key.

...I was wondering if you can get a socket on to it,maybe a double hexagon
one
would fit and use an extension or more likely two extensions .Do you or
a
neighbour or friend,relative have an socket set .Car mechanics or folk who
do
their own car maintenance have them usually .


Stuart .

Tried a socket set - could not find one that gripped - they were either too
small or too loose.

A small adjustable may work - will ask around the neighbours. If I can get a
grip in the confined space I am fairly sure that I could get some leverage
on it.


Also a small mole grip. No "Stilsons"..that's what I meant. The ones
that lock on tighter the harder you push..can even be hammered round..or
fitted with a bit of pipe to increase leverage.

These do bugger stuff, but I've snapped steel bolts with them that
wouldn't turn...they can do the torque all right.

You would probably ant a new bit afterwards though..unless its one of
those 'thats it for the next 5 years, and sod the next guy who has to
fix it'...which was roughly the attitude we had in keeping old bangers
going.



You MAY need to consider draining what you can and using a blowlamp and
WD40 on the ******* thing. Or in extremis, fitting a new one.


If the cost in hassle, skinned knuckles and time of all the stuck bolts
on my cars were totted up, it wold have paid for new parts several times
over.


The idea of handles from other fittings is interesting. Will have a look as
a couple of ideas come to mind.

Please keep the ideas flowing.

On Mon, 16 Oct 2006 00:19:08 +0100, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

snipped


Also a small mole grip. No "Stilsons"..that's what I meant. The ones
that lock on tighter the harder you push..can even be hammered round..or
fitted with a bit of pipe to increase leverage.

These do bugger stuff, but I've snapped steel bolts with them that
wouldn't turn...they can do the torque all right.

You would probably ant a new bit afterwards though..unless its one of
those 'thats it for the next 5 years, and sod the next guy who has to
fix it'...which was roughly the attitude we had in keeping old bangers
going.

I think the problem the OP has ,if you read his posting,is that he has little
space to play with .

Stuart