The message
from "Alan Holmes" contains these words:

So, you buy a house, and you know where the cables are because you are
phsycic?

No, you buy a house and you know where the cables are because they are
required to be in certain areas. Or, more accurately, they're required
not to be in certain areas.

Cables are permitted above and below visible fittings provided they stay
within the outline of the fitting, width or height. Cables are permitted
in the 150mm from the ceiling and 150mm from the edges of walls.
Outside these areas cables must be covered by steel capping.

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.

On Wed, 11 Oct 2006 21:17:44 +0100 (BST), "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:

On Wed, 11 Oct 2006 18:56:30 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

I would have thought that the danger of plastering over was obvious.

'tis thats why the regs state that wiring should only run vertically and
horizontally from a fitting (with exceptions for corners and ceilngs).

And your idea of putting the wire in plastic conduit would make not a
scrap of difference if someone decides to nail into the wall. Steel
conduit, yes.

The industrial round steel pipe conduit, yes but not metal capping. How
do you fix that? With nails...

Do you remember the very old-fashioned close-jointed "tin-whistle"
conduit? This was about the same gauge stuff as capping, but just
rolled round into a pipe. Tee-pieces, elbows and so on were attached
using setscrews. The pipe was terminated with a rubber bush.

Although it gave rather minor protection to wires, it was still
convenient for "cut and draw" replacement of wires, although it was
typically only about ½" diameter. A 1.0 sq mm T+E went through
nicely!

Early c20, I would think. When I rewired my parents' 1902 town house
(about 30 years ago) there was a lot of this about.

--
Frank Erskine
Sunderland

Alan Holmes wrote:

Consider this, as I said in another post, banging nails into a wall which
has buried electic cables in is dangerous, apart from perhaps selling your

Not really. Unless you tend to hang pictures in the nude and live in a
mud hut, you are unlikely to have a good enough earth reference to get
more than a tingle even if you drove the nail right through a live
conductor and then tried to hang on to the bit sticking out.

house to someone else who will drive nails into the wall, possibly killing
themselves, if you stay in the house until you get old, when your memory,
like mine, will gradually get to a point where you cannot remember why you
have stood up from a chair, you decide to hang pictures, and you forget that
you have put cables in the wall, you or your wife will be the ones banging
nails into the wall.

Sorry Alan, but you seem to be missing a number of fundamental points
here. Might I suggest you read the IEE On Site Guide to get some
grounding in the actual practices and requirements for a modern
electrical installation:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/...ternodeltdcomp

Now if you wish to put your life at risk because of an idiotic notion that
you can just put cables into a wal and plaster over them, that is your
prerogative, but do not put someone elses life in danger.

Firstly have you stopped to think how the vast majority of houses are
wired? The answer is with cables buried in the plaster. How do you think
your house is wired?

If you want an easy to digest summary, then see he

http://www.niceic.org.uk/downloads/P...0Guide%206.pdf

Cables buried in plaster is the normal method of installation. It is
fully compliant with BS7671. It is a safe and low risk method for cable
installation so long as you follow the rules.

The rules state that there are permitted zones where cables may be
buried without addition protection. These are vertically and
horizontally aligned with any visible electrical accessory mounted on
the wall, in a 6" zone at the corners of the room, and a 6" zone where
the wall meets the ceiling.

If you want to run a cable outside of these zones then you need to
either: ensure that it is buried = 50mm deep from both sides of the
wall, or protect it with earthed metal capping. The capping will not
stop nail penetration, but will ensure a phase earth fault which will
open the protective device quickly.

owner had done exactly what I am warning you not to do, cables were buried
in the plaster, and if I had been a couple of millimeteres out I would
possibly be dead, so ignore the 'good advice' you have been given and do the
job properly.

Your definition of "properly" seems a little odd. Unless you were to
attempt to bury very heavy gauge steel conduit in the plaster (for which
there will be insufficient depth), what you suggest will offer little if
any protection against nail penetration.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In article ,
Guy King wrote:
No, you buy a house and you know where the cables are because they are
required to be in certain areas. Or, more accurately, they're required
not to be in certain areas.

Cables are permitted above and below visible fittings provided they stay
within the outline of the fitting, width or height. Cables are permitted
in the 150mm from the ceiling and 150mm from the edges of walls.
Outside these areas cables must be covered by steel capping.

I'd not rely on regulations having been followed, though.

--
*Eat well, stay fit, die anyway

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

John Rumm wrote:

If you want to run a cable outside of these zones then you need to
either: ensure that it is buried = 50mm deep from both sides of the
wall, or protect it with [...]

"earthed conduit trunking or ducting satisfying the requirements of
these Regulations for a protective conductor, or be mechanically
protected sufficient to prevent penetration of the cable by nails,
screws and the like" [522-06-06 (iii)]

[...] earthed metal capping.

But not capping, the sole purpose of which is to protect the cable prior
to and during plastering.

--
Andy

Andy Wade wrote:

John Rumm wrote:

If you want to run a cable outside of these zones then you need to
either: ensure that it is buried = 50mm deep from both sides of the
wall, or protect it with [...]


"earthed conduit trunking or ducting satisfying the requirements of
these Regulations for a protective conductor, or be mechanically
protected sufficient to prevent penetration of the cable by nails,
screws and the like" [522-06-06 (iii)]

I take it that 522-06-06 (i) only applies to cable with integrated
metallic sheath like SWA then?

(At a glance it is easy to read the "incorporates an earthed metallic
covering" and not pay attention to the end of the sentence!)

[...] earthed metal capping.


But not capping, the sole purpose of which is to protect the cable prior
to and during plastering.

I stand corrected!

(never had the need to run a wire out of a permitted zone as yet - but
no doubt the time will come)

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

The message
from "Dave Plowman (News)" contains these words:

I'd not rely on regulations having been followed, though.

Probably not, but I've never hit a cable yet, mostly by a bit of common
sense. It's not really that hard to work out where the cables are likely
to be.

Pipes, on the other hand, are a different matter altogether. Pointed out
to the bloke next door that I could occasionally smell gas. Turned out
he'd put three nails through a gaspipe in the floor.

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.

John Rumm wrote:

I take it that 522-06-06 (i) only applies to cable with integrated
metallic sheath like SWA then?

Yes: SWA, FPxxx, MICC, etc.

(At a glance it is easy to read the "incorporates an earthed metallic
covering" and not pay attention to the end of the sentence!)

Read it in conjunction with the preceding text - "A cable concealed
[...] shall (i) incorporate an earthed metal covering [...], OR (ii) be
[one of the specified concentric cables], OR (iii) be enclosed [in
earthed conduit etc.] OR (iv) be installed in [one of the the safe zones].

[Using capping]

I stand corrected!

In any case earthing capping is hardly practicable. Inaccessible joints
would have to be soldered, which, if memory serves me right, would need
the use of acid cored solder or a similar type of flux which needs
thorough washing off to avoid corrosion.

--
Andy

On Wed, 11 Oct 2006 16:46:30 GMT, "Alan Holmes"
wrote:

The house gets sold, the new owner decides to hang some pictures, bangs a
nail into the plaster and through the wire.

I would have thought that the danger of plastering over was obvious.

If you are dumb enough to start randomly knocking nails in to support
pictures, or drilling holes in walls such as in a kitchen to mount a
spice rack, and you fail to use common sense and use a wiring detector
then you are clearly not fit to continue to populate the gene pool.

It's called natural selection.

The reality is that unprotected wiring, buried in plaster in walls
that may be disturbed by all and sundry who have ever seen a DIY
programme is permitted....but wiring behind a skirting board that may
remain in place for half a century isn't. It's a funny old world.


--

In article ,
Guy King wrote:
I'd not rely on regulations having been followed, though.

Probably not, but I've never hit a cable yet, mostly by a bit of common
sense. It's not really that hard to work out where the cables are likely
to be.

Yup. Although maybe not for those who nail into walls. ;-(

Pipes, on the other hand, are a different matter altogether. Pointed out
to the bloke next door that I could occasionally smell gas. Turned out
he'd put three nails through a gaspipe in the floor.

The next owner of my place will be delighted - all the pipe runs are
marked on the floorboards. Unless he wants those nasty stripped
floorboards, of course.

--
*The hardness of the butter is proportional to the softness of the bread *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

A main purpose of conduit is being able to replace wires. Otherwise might
as well use MICC, SWA, Macanite or similar.

Actually, the main reasons I've found is either to protect the cable or to
provide a neater appearance to surface mounted wiring.

Christian.

In article ,
Matt wrote:
The reality is that unprotected wiring, buried in plaster in walls
that may be disturbed by all and sundry who have ever seen a DIY
programme is permitted....but wiring behind a skirting board that may
remain in place for half a century isn't. It's a funny old world.

Yes - I've oft wondered about the reasoning here. Who nails into skirting?

--
*Upon the advice of my attorney, my shirt bears no message at this time

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
Christian McArdle wrote:
A main purpose of conduit is being able to replace wires. Otherwise
might as well use MICC, SWA, Macanite or similar.

Actually, the main reasons I've found is either to protect the cable or
to provide a neater appearance to surface mounted wiring.

For neatness, you can't beat MICC properly done. It's becoming a dying
art, though.

--
*White with a hint of M42*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Alan Holmes wrote:
"Steve" wrote in message
.uk...
dcbwhaley wrote:
You should consult someone with a knowledge of electrics!


That is why he is on this forum. He consulted me.

And your advice was?


.... very good advice

Thanks, it was good advice.

To put your life at risk, doesn't sound like good advice to me.

It was good advice because it was taken directly from the IEE
regulations and the On Site Guide. Burying cables in plaster is a
standard method (Method 4 ISTR) of installation. But the cables must
be in the permitted zones, basically horizontal or vertical runs fron
the fitting.

If you drive a nail in those zones witthout using a cable detector you
deserve what you get. Fortunately all you are likely to get is a mild
tingle at worst. More likely a tripped breaker..

"Frank Erskine" wrote in message
...

Do you remember the very old-fashioned close-jointed "tin-whistle"
conduit? This was about the same gauge stuff as capping, but just
rolled round into a pipe.
snip

Early c20, I would think.

And used in my house in the mid fifties... Probably another in the list
of "Last House in England to have..."

2A sockets
Rubber insulated cables
Bedroom fireplaces
Ground floor with no dpm
9" walls
Steel window frames
Paddy's mortar

and so on.


--
Kevin Poole
**Use current month and year to reply (e.g. )***

Andy Wade wrote:

In any case earthing capping is hardly practicable. Inaccessible joints
would have to be soldered, which, if memory serves me right, would need
the use of acid cored solder or a similar type of flux which needs
thorough washing off to avoid corrosion.

I suppose you could crimp a ring terminal onto your wire, drill the
capping, then pop rivet the terminal onto it.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

"John Rumm" wrote in message
...
Alan Holmes wrote:

Consider this, as I said in another post, banging nails into a wall which
has buried electic cables in is dangerous, apart from perhaps selling
your

Not really. Unless you tend to hang pictures in the nude and live in a mud
hut, you are unlikely to have a good enough earth reference to get more
than a tingle even if you drove the nail right through a live conductor
and then tried to hang on to the bit sticking out.

But you now have a shortcircuit and damaged wiring, as it is not installed
in conduit it means that the wire has now to be pulled out of the wall and
replaced.

Stuff deleted:-

Firstly have you stopped to think how the vast majority of houses are
wired? The answer is with cables buried in the plaster. How do you think
your house is wired?

All in conduit.

Installed by me!

Your definition of "properly" seems a little odd. Unless you were to
attempt to bury very heavy gauge steel conduit in the plaster (for which
there will be insufficient depth), what you suggest will offer little if
any protection against nail penetration.

The normal way of installing conduit is to cut a trough in the wall deep
enough to take the conduit and then plastered over.

Alan

"Andy Wade" wrote in message
...

In any case earthing capping is hardly practicable. Inaccessible joints
would have to be soldered, which, if memory serves me right, would need
the use of acid cored solder or a similar type of flux which needs
thorough washing off to avoid corrosion.

You should not bury joints, a continuous wire should be installed, if the
wire you have availabe is not long enough, go out and buy some which is long
enough!

Alan


--
Andy

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Christian McArdle wrote:
A main purpose of conduit is being able to replace wires. Otherwise
might as well use MICC, SWA, Macanite or similar.

Actually, the main reasons I've found is either to protect the cable or
to provide a neater appearance to surface mounted wiring.

For neatness, you can't beat MICC properly done. It's becoming a dying
art, though.

What's MICC?

Alan


--
*White with a hint of M42*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
Alan Holmes wrote:
Firstly have you stopped to think how the vast majority of houses are
wired? The answer is with cables buried in the plaster. How do you
think your house is wired?

All in conduit.

Installed by me!

What sort of cable did you use?

--
*Learn from your parents' mistakes - use birth control

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
Alan Holmes wrote:
For neatness, you can't beat MICC properly done. It's becoming a dying
art, though.

What's MICC?

Mineral Insulated Copper Covered. Commonly known as Pyro. Often covered in
orange PVC - although this isn't needed for every use. In its bare copper
form it's ideal for surface runs across old wood beams etc as it quickly
blends in. The sort you'd use for a light is only about 5mm in diameter so
much neater than conduit doing the same job. Most commonly seen in old
pubs.

--
*Caution: I drive like you do.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Guy King wrote:
No, you buy a house and you know where the cables are because they
are required to be in certain areas. Or, more accurately, they're
required not to be in certain areas.

Cables are permitted above and below visible fittings provided they
stay within the outline of the fitting, width or height. Cables are
permitted in the 150mm from the ceiling and 150mm from the edges of
walls. Outside these areas cables must be covered by steel capping.

I'd not rely on regulations having been followed, though.

ISTR the above requirements only came in with the 16th edition,
so earlier installations are unlikely to comply.

Alan Holmes wrote:

"Andy Wade" wrote in message
...

In any case earthing capping is hardly practicable. Inaccessible joints
would have to be soldered,

You should not bury joints, a continuous wire should be installed, if the
wire you have availabe is not long enough, go out and buy some which is long
enough!

We were talking about joints in metal capping (aka channelling) which
tends only to come in 2 metre lengths.

--
Andy

Martin Crossley wrote:

[Cable safe zones]

ISTR the above requirements only came in with the 16th edition,
so earlier installations are unlikely to comply.

No, this was introduced in an amendment to the 15th edition which took
effect on 12th June 1987 (thus pre-dating the 16th ed. by about four years).

In the context of the current discussion it's interesting to observe a
footnote to the original 15th ed. regulation 523-20(d) which reads:

"NOTE - where a cable is to be concealed in plaster, capping may be
provided for convenience and to prevent damage to the cable during the
plastering process."

--
Andy

Alan Holmes wrote:

You should not bury joints, a continuous wire should be installed, if the
wire you have availabe is not long enough, go out and buy some which is long
enough!

In an ideal world a continous run of cable is preffered.

However it *is* acceptable to burry a joint if it is done correctly. Vis:

Wire joint is made using crimped, welded, or soldered construction
Each wire is individually protected with suitable material (i.e.
heatshrink sleaving)
The overall sheath is also covered with heatshrink


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Alan Holmes wrote:

But you now have a shortcircuit and damaged wiring, as it is not installed
in conduit it means that the wire has now to be pulled out of the wall and
replaced.

Take your pick:

Cut out section of plaster round damaged wire, cut out and replace
damaged section by crimping in new bit of wire, test, and make good.

or

Move furniture, lift carpets, lift floor, disconnect wiring at
accessory, attempt to pull old cable from conduit, while pulling through
new wire, reterminate at accessory. test, relay floor, carpet, shift
furniture.

I can do the first one in 20 mins flat. How long would the second one take?

Failing that, save youself the effort by observing the cable zones and
getting a cable detector.

Conduit is great if used for its intended purpose i.e. wired with
singles and not cable. However it is a right PITA to work with when you
start trying to stick T&E down it.

Stuff deleted:-

Firstly have you stopped to think how the vast majority of houses are
wired? The answer is with cables buried in the plaster. How do you think
your house is wired?


All in conduit.

Nothing wrong with having conduit, but that is not the way it is done in
the vast majority of places, and certainly not a requirement.

The normal way of installing conduit is to cut a trough in the wall deep
enough to take the conduit and then plastered over.

Try that on a lath and plaster wall.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Oct 12, 11:19 pm, "Alan Holmes" wrote:
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in ...

In article ,
Christian McArdle wrote:
A main purpose of conduit is being able to replace wires. Otherwise
might as well use MICC, SWA, Macanite or similar.

Actually, the main reasons I've found is either to protect the cable or
to provide a neater appearance to surface mounted wiring.

For neatness, you can't beat MICC properly done. It's becoming a dying
art, though.

What's MICC?

That's an odd question from one who is lecturing others on how to
install wiring. At the very least, Google would allow you to hide your
ignorance.

MBQ

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Alan Holmes wrote:
Firstly have you stopped to think how the vast majority of houses are
wired? The answer is with cables buried in the plaster. How do you
think your house is wired?

All in conduit.

Installed by me!

What sort of cable did you use?

The correct sort sold for lighting and ring mains.

Alan


--
*Learn from your parents' mistakes - use birth control

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"John Rumm" wrote in message
...
Alan Holmes wrote:

But you now have a shortcircuit and damaged wiring, as it is not
installed in conduit it means that the wire has now to be pulled out of
the wall and replaced.

Take your pick:

Cut out section of plaster round damaged wire, cut out and replace damaged
section by crimping in new bit of wire, test, and make good.

I would not like to take the risk of crimping mains cable, I would use a
proper juction box.

or

Move furniture, lift carpets, lift floor, disconnect wiring at accessory,
attempt to pull old cable from conduit, while pulling through new wire,
reterminate at accessory. test, relay floor, carpet, shift furniture.

Which would not be neccessary if the cable had continuos and been installed
in conduit as there would not have been the risk of a short circuit.

I can do the first one in 20 mins flat. How long would the second one
take?

Failing that, save youself the effort by observing the cable zones and
getting a cable detector.

Conduit is great if used for its intended purpose i.e. wired with singles
and not cable. However it is a right PITA to work with when you start
trying to stick T&E down it.

Stuff deleted:-

Firstly have you stopped to think how the vast majority of houses are
wired? The answer is with cables buried in the plaster. How do you think
your house is wired?


All in conduit.

Nothing wrong with having conduit, but that is not the way it is done in
the vast majority of places, and certainly not a requirement.

The normal way of installing conduit is to cut a trough in the wall deep
enough to take the conduit and then plastered over.

Try that on a lath and plaster wall.

It would not be neccessary on a lathe and plaster wall as the cable could be
suspended in the gap between the sides.

Alan

"Andy Wade" wrote in message
...
Alan Holmes wrote:

"Andy Wade" wrote in message
...

In any case earthing capping is hardly practicable. Inaccessible joints
would have to be soldered,

You should not bury joints, a continuous wire should be installed, if the
wire you have availabe is not long enough, go out and buy some which is
long enough!

We were talking about joints in metal capping (aka channelling) which
tends only to come in 2 metre lengths.

The original post was about crimping two cable ends together in a buried
cable.

Alan


--
Andy

In article ,
Alan Holmes wrote:
All in conduit.

Installed by me!

What sort of cable did you use?

The correct sort sold for lighting and ring mains.

That doesn't answer the question. ;-) However, I'll make it easier. Did
you use Twin and Earth?

--
*I'll try being nicer if you'll try being smarter

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"John Rumm" wrote in message
...
Alan Holmes wrote:

You should not bury joints, a continuous wire should be installed, if the
wire you have availabe is not long enough, go out and buy some which is
long enough!

In an ideal world a continous run of cable is preffered.

However it *is* acceptable to burry a joint if it is done correctly. Vis:

Wire joint is made using crimped, welded, or soldered construction
Each wire is individually protected with suitable material (i.e.
heatshrink sleaving)
The overall sheath is also covered with heatshrink

I would be horrified if someone did that in a house I lived in.

Either do the job properly or don't do it.

Would you expect a professional electrician to install a cable like that?

Alan



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Alan Holmes wrote:
For neatness, you can't beat MICC properly done. It's becoming a dying
art, though.

What's MICC?

Mineral Insulated Copper Covered. Commonly known as Pyro. Often covered in
orange PVC - although this isn't needed for every use. In its bare copper
form it's ideal for surface runs across old wood beams etc as it quickly
blends in. The sort you'd use for a light is only about 5mm in diameter so
much neater than conduit doing the same job. Most commonly seen in old
pubs.

Thanks.

--
*Caution: I drive like you do.

I'll make sure I keep well out of your way!

Alan


Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Fri, 13 Oct 2006 22:45:14 GMT, Alan Holmes wrote:

What sort of cable did you use?

The correct sort sold for lighting and ring mains.

Umm that would be two different types of cable.

On Fri, 13 Oct 2006 22:46:21 GMT, Alan Holmes wrote:

I would not like to take the risk of crimping mains cable, I would use a
proper juction box.

Then you are a ****wit.

Oh hang on it's Holmes. Everyone knows that you are a ****wit.

On Sat, 14 Oct 2006 00:25:20 +0100, Steve Firth
wrote:

On Fri, 13 Oct 2006 22:45:14 GMT, Alan Holmes wrote:

What sort of cable did you use?

The correct sort sold for lighting and ring mains.

Umm that would be two different types of cable.

He used the proper 4.75mm for the lights and the correct 9.853mm for
the ring!

Alan Holmes wrote:

Take your pick:

Cut out section of plaster round damaged wire, cut out and replace damaged
section by crimping in new bit of wire, test, and make good.


I would not like to take the risk of crimping mains cable, I would use a
proper juction box.

If the joint is to be inaccessable then that that would be prohibited by
the regs:

[526-04-01] "Except for the following, every connection and joint shall
be accessable for inspection, testing and maintenance

(i) a compound-filled or encapsulated joint
(ii) a connection between a cold tail and a heating element (e.g. a
ceiling and floor heating system, a pipe trace heating system
(iii) a joint made by welding, soldering, brazing or compression tool
(iv) a joint forming part of the equipment complying with the
appropriate product standard"

Move furniture, lift carpets, lift floor, disconnect wiring at accessory,
attempt to pull old cable from conduit, while pulling through new wire,
reterminate at accessory. test, relay floor, carpet, shift furniture.


Which would not be neccessary if the cable had continuos and been installed
in conduit as there would not have been the risk of a short circuit.

There will be when you stick a nail through it.

The normal way of installing conduit is to cut a trough in the wall deep
enough to take the conduit and then plastered over.

Try that on a lath and plaster wall.


It would not be neccessary on a lathe and plaster wall as the cable could be
suspended in the gap between the sides.

Also depricated, and a bit trickey when you need to cross the studs.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Alan Holmes wrote:

However it *is* acceptable to burry a joint if it is done correctly. Vis:

Wire joint is made using crimped, welded, or soldered construction
Each wire is individually protected with suitable material (i.e.
heatshrink sleaving)
The overall sheath is also covered with heatshrink


I would be horrified if someone did that in a house I lived in.

Needlessly, but your perogative obviously.

Either do the job properly or don't do it.

I have described the correct way to joint a cable that is to be
plastered over. Better not to joint it if avoidable, but if you need to,
then that is a regs approved way of doing it.

Would you expect a professional electrician to install a cable like that?

For a repair or extension to exiting wiring, then yes, that is how I
would expect a concealed joint to be made.

If it were a rewire from scratch then there would be no need for joints
of this type.


--
Cheers,

John.

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The message
from "Alan Holmes" contains these words:

I would not like to take the risk of crimping mains cable, I would use a
proper juction box.

That might be a mistake. Apart from not complying with the current regs
if the box is inaccessible, it's also just silly because crimps are more
reliable than screws in a junction box. You might notice that the sort
of power cables that run underground into substation are crimped
together, not done with screw terminals.

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Alan Holmes wrote:
All in conduit.

Installed by me!

What sort of cable did you use?

The correct sort sold for lighting and ring mains.

That doesn't answer the question. ;-) However, I'll make it easier. Did
you use Twin and Earth?

Yes, the problem I had with your question is that I could not remember the
size, but it is the correct size, as well as being twin and earth.

Alan




--
*I'll try being nicer if you'll try being smarter

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.