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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#81
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Buried Electrical connections
"Steve Firth" wrote in message ... On Fri, 13 Oct 2006 22:45:14 GMT, Alan Holmes wrote: What sort of cable did you use? The correct sort sold for lighting and ring mains. Umm that would be two different types of cable. That is correct, lighting needs a smaller size cable than the ring mains, or electric cooker connections. Didn't you know there are different sizes of cable for different purposes? |
#82
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Buried Electrical connections
"EricP" wrote in message ... On Sat, 14 Oct 2006 00:25:20 +0100, Steve Firth wrote: On Fri, 13 Oct 2006 22:45:14 GMT, Alan Holmes wrote: What sort of cable did you use? The correct sort sold for lighting and ring mains. Umm that would be two different types of cable. He used the proper 4.75mm for the lights and the correct 9.853mm for the ring! Thank you. |
#83
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Buried Electrical connections
"Steve Firth" wrote in message ... On Fri, 13 Oct 2006 22:46:21 GMT, Alan Holmes wrote: I would not like to take the risk of crimping mains cable, I would use a proper juction box. Then you are a ****wit. Oh hang on it's Holmes. Everyone knows that you are a ****wit. Just trying to follow your example! |
#84
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Buried Electrical connections
"John Rumm" wrote in message ... Alan Holmes wrote: Take your pick: Cut out section of plaster round damaged wire, cut out and replace damaged section by crimping in new bit of wire, test, and make good. I would not like to take the risk of crimping mains cable, I would use a proper juction box. If the joint is to be inaccessable then that that would be prohibited by the regs: [526-04-01] "Except for the following, every connection and joint shall be accessable for inspection, testing and maintenance (i) a compound-filled or encapsulated joint (ii) a connection between a cold tail and a heating element (e.g. a ceiling and floor heating system, a pipe trace heating system (iii) a joint made by welding, soldering, brazing or compression tool (iv) a joint forming part of the equipment complying with the appropriate product standard" Move furniture, lift carpets, lift floor, disconnect wiring at accessory, attempt to pull old cable from conduit, while pulling through new wire, reterminate at accessory. test, relay floor, carpet, shift furniture. Which would not be neccessary if the cable had continuos and been installed in conduit as there would not have been the risk of a short circuit. There will be when you stick a nail through it. I think you would find it rathe difficult to drive a nail through a metal conduit. The normal way of installing conduit is to cut a trough in the wall deep enough to take the conduit and then plastered over. Try that on a lath and plaster wall. It would not be neccessary on a lathe and plaster wall as the cable could be suspended in the gap between the sides. Also depricated, and a bit trickey when you need to cross the studs. Then locte the studs and drill a hole through them! Not quite sure of the deprication though, can't speak that sort of language! -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#85
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Buried Electrical connections
"Guy King" wrote in message ... The message from "Alan Holmes" contains these words: I would not like to take the risk of crimping mains cable, I would use a proper juction box. That might be a mistake. Apart from not complying with the current regs if the box is inaccessible, it's also just silly because crimps are more reliable than screws in a junction box. You might notice that the sort of power cables that run underground into substation are crimped together, not done with screw terminals. In my day they were always soldered! -- Skipweasel Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain. |
#86
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Buried Electrical connections
Alan Holmes wrote:
There will be when you stick a nail through it. I think you would find it rathe difficult to drive a nail through a metal conduit. Metal conduit these days is rather thin and weedy - quite easy to pierce with a nail - especially when nicely supported in plaster. (in much the same way as it is easy to nail through a pipe). With the more commonly used plastic conduit, you probably would not even notice it was there. It would not be neccessary on a lathe and plaster wall as the cable could be suspended in the gap between the sides. Also depricated, and a bit trickey when you need to cross the studs. Then locte the studs and drill a hole through them! Tricky thing to do once the wall is built. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#87
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Buried Electrical connections
On Sat, 14 Oct 2006 16:00:51 GMT, "Alan Holmes"
wrote: "John Rumm" wrote in message ... There will be when you stick a nail through it. I think you would find it rathe difficult to drive a nail through a metal conduit. Well if you ate your breakfast rather than spend all your time in here wittering then you too might have the strength to hammer a nail through conduit. There is also the lazy agresssive approach http://www.tool-net.co.uk/p-330804/i...-nail-gun.html -- |
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