I will be installing a heated mirror in the bathroom.

It is simply one of these stuck to the back of the mirror.
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...56563&id=77859

I am planning on tilling the mirror into the wall (so the mirror is
installed, then tiled around, endng up in a flush mirror.

The mirror, of course, cant be removed without destruction.

How do I make the connections behind the mirror?
(The cable attached to the heater looks to be very sort, if it turns out to
be longer, this won't be a problem!)

Can I sink in a metal back box, crimp the connections in here, install a
metal blanking plate like this over the box (Do I need to?)
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...77437&ts=56802
Then stick the mirror to the wall, never to see the box again?

I assume I will have to install metal capping over the cable, as there won't
be a visible accessory and it will be plaster deep) (the cable will go
straight up into the ceiling)

Thanks again! :-)

--

Sparks...
(Not an electrician)

Sparks wrote:
I will be installing a heated mirror in the bathroom.

It is simply one of these stuck to the back of the mirror.
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...56563&id=77859

I am planning on tilling the mirror into the wall (so the mirror is
installed, then tiled around, endng up in a flush mirror.

The mirror, of course, cant be removed without destruction.

How do I make the connections behind the mirror?
(The cable attached to the heater looks to be very sort, if it turns out to
be longer, this won't be a problem!)

Specification states that the cable is 1 metre long.


Can I sink in a metal back box, crimp the connections in here, install a
metal blanking plate like this over the box (Do I need to?)
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...77437&ts=56802
Then stick the mirror to the wall, never to see the box again?

I assume I will have to install metal capping over the cable, as there won't
be a visible accessory and it will be plaster deep) (the cable will go
straight up into the ceiling)

Thanks again! :-)

"PJ" wrote in message ...
Sparks wrote:
I will be installing a heated mirror in the bathroom.

It is simply one of these stuck to the back of the mirror.
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...56563&id=77859

I am planning on tilling the mirror into the wall (so the mirror is
installed, then tiled around, endng up in a flush mirror.

The mirror, of course, cant be removed without destruction.

How do I make the connections behind the mirror?
(The cable attached to the heater looks to be very sort, if it turns out
to be longer, this won't be a problem!)

Specification states that the cable is 1 metre long.

Okay, I didn't see that before, thanks.

I expect I can take the cable down into the vanity unit, then back up again
into the loft, under some metal capping, or up to the loft, in the corner of
the room (I don't need capping here do I, I can just bury it in the plaster?

Sorted :-)

Sparks...

Sparks wrote:

I expect I can take the cable down into the vanity unit, then back up again
into the loft, under some metal capping, or up to the loft, in the corner of
the room (I don't need capping here do I, I can just bury it in the plaster?

Since you'll need a control switch why not take the flex into a
single-gang flush box fitted with a DP switch (or switched FCU if the
feed is from ring circuit)? Then you've got a visible accessory and can
run upwards without impact protection. This assumes the switch will be
in Zone 3. This box will also provide a convenient point at which to
connect the supplementary bonding, if there isn't already a nearby
connection to the earth of the circuit concerned.

If your cable run has no visible accessory then capping is NOT
acceptable impact protection. You'd need earthed steel conduit, or a
concentric cable (FP200 or similar) or to bury the cable at 50 mm below
the wall surface.

--
Andy

"Andy Wade" wrote in message
...
Sparks wrote:

I expect I can take the cable down into the vanity unit, then back up
again into the loft, under some metal capping, or up to the loft, in the
corner of the room (I don't need capping here do I, I can just bury it in
the plaster?

Since you'll need a control switch why not take the flex into a
single-gang flush box fitted with a DP switch (or switched FCU if the feed
is from ring circuit)? Then you've got a visible accessory and can run
upwards without impact protection. This assumes the switch will be in
Zone 3. This box will also provide a convenient point at which to connect
the supplementary bonding, if there isn't already a nearby connection to
the earth of the circuit concerned.

Not really happy with this - it would be the only accessory on the bathroom
wall.
(Shaver socket it going in the vanity unit, and we have a pull switch for
the light)

This mirror heater is connected to the lighting circuit (6A MCB)
I will put a FCU in the vanity unit, then take the cable up to the loft via
the corner of the room (I can just bury the cable in plaster here, can't I?)

If your cable run has no visible accessory then capping is NOT acceptable
impact protection. You'd need earthed steel conduit, or a concentric
cable (FP200 or similar) or to bury the cable at 50 mm below the wall
surface.

Okay, I think I will just bury it at 50mm between the mirror and the
vanity unit then, It's going on a 9" brick wall, so this should be easy once
I get my chasing machine!

One other question, I will be installing my shower pump in the loft - I
don't need to be able to isolate this from the bathroom do I? (I was
planning to install a DP FCU near it, in the loft, fed from the 20A radial I
have up there)

Thanks!

Sparks...

Sparks wrote:

Not really happy with this - it would be the only accessory on the bathroom
wall.
(Shaver socket it going in the vanity unit, and we have a pull switch for
the light)

OK. I'm not a fan of hiding switches in cupboards but there's no need
for emergency switching in this case so I suppose it's OK. You'll need
to keep the switch reasonably accessible - that mirror pad is 65 watts
and I assume you won't want to leave it on all the time.

This mirror heater is connected to the lighting circuit (6A MCB)
I will put a FCU in the vanity unit,

Just a switch will suffice. One with a neon might be a good idea to
remind you that the thing is on.

then take the cable up to the loft via the corner of the room (I can
just bury the cable in plaster here, can't I?)
[...]
Okay, I think I will just bury it at 50mm between the mirror and the
vanity unit then, It's going on a 9" brick wall, so this should be easy once
I get my chasing machine!

If the switch is on the wall inside the cupboard and you have a straight
vertical run up to the mirror and a horizontal run to the corner safe
zone then there's no need for deep burial. You'll still need to sink a
box behind the mirror to connect the flex tail from the pad to the
permanent wiring; as you said at the outset this connection will need to
be crimped since it ends up inaccessible.

One other question, I will be installing my shower pump in the loft - I
don't need to be able to isolate this from the bathroom do I? (I was
planning to install a DP FCU near it, in the loft, fed from the 20A radial I
have up there)

That's OK. You will need a supplementary bond between the CPCs of the
pump and lighting circuits and it sounds as if this would be a good
place to do it - bond (4mm^2) between the earth terminal of the pump
isolator and the lighting circuit earth in the junction box that you'll
need to feed the lighting drop down to the shaver point and mirror.

--
Andy

"Andy Wade" wrote in message
...
Sparks wrote:

Not really happy with this - it would be the only accessory on the
bathroom wall.
(Shaver socket it going in the vanity unit, and we have a pull switch for
the light)

OK. I'm not a fan of hiding switches in cupboards but there's no need for
emergency switching in this case so I suppose it's OK. You'll need to
keep the switch reasonably accessible - that mirror pad is 65 watts and I
assume you won't want to leave it on all the time.

No, it will be connected to the light switch, so it is only on when the
lights are.


This mirror heater is connected to the lighting circuit (6A MCB)
I will put a FCU in the vanity unit,

Just a switch will suffice. One with a neon might be a good idea to
remind you that the thing is on.

Okay.


then take the cable up to the loft via the corner of the room (I can
just bury the cable in plaster here, can't I?)
[...]
Okay, I think I will just bury it at 50mm between the mirror and the
vanity unit then, It's going on a 9" brick wall, so this should be easy
once I get my chasing machine!

If the switch is on the wall inside the cupboard and you have a straight
vertical run up to the mirror and a horizontal run to the corner safe zone
then there's no need for deep burial.

Okay, I thought the fact the accessory, although on the wall, was hidden
from view meant that it diodnt count.

You'll still need to sink a box behind the mirror to connect the flex tail
from the pad to the permanent wiring; as you said at the outset this
connection will need to be crimped since it ends up inaccessible.

I think the tail on the heater will be long enough to drop down to the
switch in the cupboard, so I won't need to bother with this :-)



One other question, I will be installing my shower pump in the loft - I
don't need to be able to isolate this from the bathroom do I? (I was
planning to install a DP FCU near it, in the loft, fed from the 20A
radial I have up there)

That's OK. You will need a supplementary bond between the CPCs of the
pump and lighting circuits and it sounds as if this would be a good place
to do it - bond (4mm^2) between the earth terminal of the pump isolator
and the lighting circuit earth in the junction box that you'll need to
feed the lighting drop down to the shaver point and mirror.

Okay - even though all the pipework is plastic?

Thanks again!

Sparks...

Sparks wrote:

No, it will be connected to the light switch, so it is only on when the
lights are.

Doh, I didn't think of that.

Okay, I thought the fact the accessory, although on the wall, was hidden
from view meant that it diodnt count.

The regulation concerned doesn't actually include the word visible...

I think the tail on the heater will be long enough to drop down to the
switch in the cupboard, so I won't need to bother with this :-)

This isn't good practice. What happens if the pad fails and has to be
replaced? If you plaster the flex tail into the wall it will be quite a
disruptive replacement! You could put a length of 20 mm PVC conduit in
the wall and drop the tail down through that.

[Sup bonding]
Okay - even though all the pipework is plastic?

Yes, unless all the lights, shaver point, mirror pad and all associated
wiring accessories are beyond the Zones.

--
Andy