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Default Coving Joints and How To Do Them Without Tears

I am putting 100mm plaster coving around my bathroom ceiling .I have just done
one seperate section that consisted of 3 straight short lengths with two
straight ends and two internal corners and that was bad enough .The main section
still to be done is about 8 Metres with 7 internal corners and 3 external .

I am looking for tips as to how to do this with the minimum of trouble .I was
using a small plastic device called a Wonder Mitre .I got it years ago but I see
Axminster have it here

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.a...sfile=1&jump=0

The one I have is plastic and tends to spread when you put any pressure on it
and if you don't it slips off position . Looking at the Axminster one it looks
like it might be metal so it could be more practical ..I'd prefer to make a half
decent job so minimisiing the use of filler although I may be optimistic in
saying that .

Any advice will be appreciated .
thx
Stuart
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Default Coving Joints and How To Do Them Without Tears


"Stuart" wrote in message
...

The one I have is plastic and tends to spread when you put any pressure on

it
and if you don't it slips off position . Looking at the Axminster one it

looks
like it might be metal so it could be more practical ..I'd prefer to make

a half
decent job so minimisiing the use of filler although I may be optimistic

in
saying that .


Smooth, easy, long, piston like strokes in a single cutting plane.
No excessive pressure on box required. Decent sharp saw preferable!
Watch where your elbow goes as you draw it back by your hip - get your hip
out of the way! Get the action right on numerous scraps before the real cut.
Hand held sawing takes a while to get the knack of, until then mitres will
always be a bodge. I can now do them free hand with the odd pencil mark.
It's all in the action!

--
Mike W


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Default Coving Joints and How To Do Them Without Tears

Stuart wrote:
I am putting 100mm plaster coving around my bathroom ceiling .I have
just done one seperate section that consisted of 3 straight short
lengths with two straight ends and two internal corners and that was
bad enough .The main section still to be done is about 8 Metres
with 7 internal corners and 3 external .

I am looking for tips as to how to do this with the minimum of
trouble .I was using a small plastic device called a Wonder Mitre .I
got it years ago but I see Axminster have it here


http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.a...r+Mitre&user_s
earch=1&sfile=1&jump=0

The one I have is plastic and tends to spread when you put any
pressure on it and if you don't it slips off position . Looking at
the Axminster one it looks like it might be metal so it could be more
practical ..I'd prefer to make a half decent job so minimisiing the
use of filler although I may be optimistic in saying that .

Any advice will be appreciated .
thx
Stuart


Buy the corners looks much better and give an expensive look to it. ;-)

I got mine from a local builders yard the corners fit over the ceiling
coving,you just have to cut the coving straight and the ends slot into the
corners.

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite



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Default Coving Joints and How To Do Them Without Tears

Something like this.

http://www.diytools.co.uk/diy/Main/P...ProductID=1560


--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite



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Default Coving Joints and How To Do Them Without Tears

On Thu, 24 Aug 2006 22:14:07 GMT, "The3rd Earl Of Derby" wrote:

Something like this.

http://www.diytools.co.uk/diy/Main/P...ProductID=1560


That link just takes you to the main page .I don't know what item you were
meaning .One on these two pages perhaps .?

http://www.diytools.co.uk/productlis...4/319/320?pg=1


Stuart


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Default Coving Joints and How To Do Them Without Tears

Stuart wrote:
On Thu, 24 Aug 2006 22:14:07 GMT, "The3rd Earl Of Derby"
wrote:

Something like this.

http://www.diytools.co.uk/diy/Main/P...ProductID=1560


That link just takes you to the main page .I don't know what item you
were meaning .One on these two pages perhaps .?

http://www.diytools.co.uk/productlis...4/319/320?pg=1


Stuart


Most odd? it takes me to a corner coving.

Put 113011 in the search, as that is the code number for it.

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite



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Default Coving Joints and How To Do Them Without Tears

On Thu, 24 Aug 2006 23:09:48 GMT, "The3rd Earl Of Derby" wrote:

Stuart wrote:
On Thu, 24 Aug 2006 22:14:07 GMT, "The3rd Earl Of Derby"
wrote:

Something like this.

http://www.diytools.co.uk/diy/Main/P...ProductID=1560


That link just takes you to the main page .I don't know what item you
were meaning .One on these two pages perhaps .?

http://www.diytools.co.uk/productlis...4/319/320?pg=1


Stuart


Most odd? it takes me to a corner coving.

Put 113011 in the search, as that is the code number for it.



Saw them but they would look totally out of place in a bathroom .
I'll try this mitre box .

http://www.diytools.co.uk/Product.aspx/!TB_EMI274
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Default Coving Joints and How To Do Them Without Tears

Stuart wrote:
On Thu, 24 Aug 2006 23:09:48 GMT, "The3rd Earl Of Derby"
wrote:

Stuart wrote:
On Thu, 24 Aug 2006 22:14:07 GMT, "The3rd Earl Of Derby"
wrote:

Something like this.

http://www.diytools.co.uk/diy/Main/P...ProductID=1560

That link just takes you to the main page .I don't know what item
you
were meaning .One on these two pages perhaps .?

http://www.diytools.co.uk/productlis...4/319/320?pg=1


Stuart


Most odd? it takes me to a corner coving.

Put 113011 in the search, as that is the code number for it.



Saw them but they would look totally out of place in a bathroom .
I'll try this mitre box .

http://www.diytools.co.uk/Product.aspx/!TB_EMI274


vision set is right, don't put too much presure on the tool, practice
makes perfect, once you get your head round it, it's a doddle.


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Default Coving Joints and How To Do Them Without Tears

Stuart wrote:

I am putting 100mm plaster coving around my bathroom ceiling .I have just done
one seperate section that consisted of 3 straight short lengths with two
straight ends and two internal corners and that was bad enough .The main section
still to be done is about 8 Metres with 7 internal corners and 3 external .


Strewth - what shape is your bathroom ?

I had one wrestling match with plaster coving and uneven walls, and
that was enough. It's rumoured to be not too bad if your walls and
ceilings are true, and you have a decent mitre saw, otherwise I'd go
for the paper-coated expanded polystyrene variety.

--
"Clones are people two."

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Default Coving Joints and How To Do Them Without Tears

Stuart wrote:
I am putting 100mm plaster coving around my bathroom ceiling .I have just done
one seperate section that consisted of 3 straight short lengths with two
straight ends and two internal corners and that was bad enough .The main section
still to be done is about 8 Metres with 7 internal corners and 3 external .

I am looking for tips as to how to do this with the minimum of trouble .I was
using a small plastic device called a Wonder Mitre .I got it years ago but I see
Axminster have it here

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.a...sfile=1&jump=0

The one I have is plastic and tends to spread when you put any pressure on it
and if you don't it slips off position . Looking at the Axminster one it looks
like it might be metal so it could be more practical ..I'd prefer to make a half
decent job so minimisiing the use of filler although I may be optimistic in
saying that .

Any advice will be appreciated .
thx
Stuart


Get a cheap mitre saw - I bought one for about £10 from a market vendor.
Use support pins. Score the wall and paint with dilute PVA. Use sloping
joints if you need to join lengths during a run - one inside corner and
one outside corner.
Dave


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Default Coving Joints and How To Do Them Without Tears

On Fri, 25 Aug 2006 09:04:37 +0100, NoSpam wrote:

Stuart wrote:
I am putting 100mm plaster coving around my bathroom ceiling .I have just done
one seperate section that consisted of 3 straight short lengths with two
straight ends and two internal corners and that was bad enough .The main section
still to be done is about 8 Metres with 7 internal corners and 3 external .

I am looking for tips as to how to do this with the minimum of trouble .I was
using a small plastic device called a Wonder Mitre .I got it years ago but I see
Axminster have it here

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.a...sfile=1&jump=0

The one I have is plastic and tends to spread when you put any pressure on it
and if you don't it slips off position . Looking at the Axminster one it looks
like it might be metal so it could be more practical ..I'd prefer to make a half
decent job so minimisiing the use of filler although I may be optimistic in
saying that .

Any advice will be appreciated .
thx
Stuart


Get a cheap mitre saw - I bought one for about £10 from a market vendor.
Use support pins. Score the wall and paint with dilute PVA. Use sloping
joints if you need to join lengths during a run - one inside corner and
one outside corner.
Dave


I will be using pins while the adhesive sets but
"Sloping Joints ?" What are they .?


Stuart
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Default Coving Joints and How To Do Them Without Tears


"Stuart" wrote in message
...
I am putting 100mm plaster coving around my bathroom ceiling .I have just
done
one seperate section that consisted of 3 straight short lengths with two
straight ends and two internal corners and that was bad enough .The main
section
still to be done is about 8 Metres with 7 internal corners and 3
external .

I am looking for tips as to how to do this with the minimum of trouble.


100mm mitre box from B&Q?


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Default Coving Joints and How To Do Them Without Tears

The message
from "shaun" contains these words:

I am looking for tips as to how to do this with the minimum of trouble.


100mm mitre box from B&Q?


Make your own mitre box from scrap?

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.
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Default Coving Joints and How To Do Them Without Tears

Stuart wrote:
On Fri, 25 Aug 2006 09:04:37 +0100, NoSpam wrote:

Stuart wrote:
I am putting 100mm plaster coving around my bathroom ceiling .I have just done
one seperate section that consisted of 3 straight short lengths with two
straight ends and two internal corners and that was bad enough .The main section
still to be done is about 8 Metres with 7 internal corners and 3 external .

I am looking for tips as to how to do this with the minimum of trouble .I was
using a small plastic device called a Wonder Mitre .I got it years ago but I see
Axminster have it here

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.a...sfile=1&jump=0

The one I have is plastic and tends to spread when you put any pressure on it
and if you don't it slips off position . Looking at the Axminster one it looks
like it might be metal so it could be more practical ..I'd prefer to make a half
decent job so minimisiing the use of filler although I may be optimistic in
saying that .

Any advice will be appreciated .
thx
Stuart

Get a cheap mitre saw - I bought one for about £10 from a market vendor.
Use support pins. Score the wall and paint with dilute PVA. Use sloping
joints if you need to join lengths during a run - one inside corner and
one outside corner.
Dave


I will be using pins while the adhesive sets but
"Sloping Joints ?" What are they .?


Stuart


A vertical joint is very obvious where two pieces have to join on a run;
if you cut one as an internal mitre and the other as an external mitre
they fit together and it's easier to get an invisible joint. Think
carefully about the cuts before committing hand to saw to coving!

Dave


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Default Coving Joints and How To Do Them Without Tears

Stuart wrote:
I am putting 100mm plaster coving around my bathroom ceiling .I have
just done one seperate section that consisted of 3 straight short
lengths with two straight ends and two internal corners and that was
bad enough .The main section still to be done is about 8 Metres
with 7 internal corners and 3 external .


I find it hard to get my head around those angles. This was very helpful;
http://www.diydata.com/decorating/co...ing_coving.htm

I use a £15 B&Q mitre saw bit like this;
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...77766&ts=18980


--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257


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Default Coving Joints and How To Do Them Without Tears

On Thu, 24 Aug 2006 22:38:02 +0100, Stuart wrote:

I am putting 100mm plaster coving around my bathroom ceiling .I have just done
one seperate section that consisted of 3 straight short lengths with two
straight ends and two internal corners and that was bad enough .The main section
still to be done is about 8 Metres with 7 internal corners and 3 external .


I was watching a pro do some a few years back and he was using 'mason's
corners' for the internal angles - much like the way skirting is put on,
where one piece is applied straight into the corner, and the other is
profiled to fit up against. Not recommending that you should try it, just
commenting that it was how the pro put the stuff up.


--
the dot wanderer at tesco dot net
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Default Coving Joints and How To Do Them Without Tears

The Wanderer wrote:
On Thu, 24 Aug 2006 22:38:02 +0100, Stuart wrote:

I am putting 100mm plaster coving around my bathroom ceiling .I have just done
one seperate section that consisted of 3 straight short lengths with two
straight ends and two internal corners and that was bad enough .The main section
still to be done is about 8 Metres with 7 internal corners and 3 external .


I was watching a pro do some a few years back and he was using 'mason's
corners' for the internal angles - much like the way skirting is put on,
where one piece is applied straight into the corner, and the other is
profiled to fit up against. Not recommending that you should try it, just
commenting that it was how the pro put the stuff up.



A while ago I had to "tee" some 5" coving into an existing run; I was
dreading the job but it actually wasn't too bad - although lots of trial
and error needed.

Dave
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Default Coving Joints and How To Do Them Without Tears


"Guy King" wrote in message
...
The message
from "shaun" contains these words:

I am looking for tips as to how to do this with the minimum of trouble.


100mm mitre box from B&Q?


Make your own mitre box from scrap?


Aye - as long as you can get the angles correct for the mitre slots...


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Default Coving Joints and How To Do Them Without Tears

On Fri, 25 Aug 2006 15:17:06 GMT, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:

Stuart wrote:
I am putting 100mm plaster coving around my bathroom ceiling .I have
just done one seperate section that consisted of 3 straight short
lengths with two straight ends and two internal corners and that was
bad enough .The main section still to be done is about 8 Metres
with 7 internal corners and 3 external .


I find it hard to get my head around those angles. This was very helpful;
http://www.diydata.com/decorating/co...ing_coving.htm



QUOTE
"Take care that you are cutting the angle in the right direction, it's very easy
to get confused. "

They are dead right about that last bit ..lol



Stuart






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Default Coving Joints and How To Do Them Without Tears

On Fri, 25 Aug 2006 16:10:06 +0100, NoSpam wrote:

Stuart wrote:
On Fri, 25 Aug 2006 09:04:37 +0100, NoSpam wrote:

Stuart wrote:
I am putting 100mm plaster coving around my bathroom ceiling .I have just done
one seperate section that consisted of 3 straight short lengths with two
straight ends and two internal corners and that was bad enough .The main section
still to be done is about 8 Metres with 7 internal corners and 3 external .

I am looking for tips as to how to do this with the minimum of trouble .I was
using a small plastic device called a Wonder Mitre .I got it years ago but I see
Axminster have it here

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.a...sfile=1&jump=0

The one I have is plastic and tends to spread when you put any pressure on it
and if you don't it slips off position . Looking at the Axminster one it looks
like it might be metal so it could be more practical ..I'd prefer to make a half
decent job so minimisiing the use of filler although I may be optimistic in
saying that .

Any advice will be appreciated .
thx
Stuart
Get a cheap mitre saw - I bought one for about £10 from a market vendor.
Use support pins. Score the wall and paint with dilute PVA. Use sloping
joints if you need to join lengths during a run - one inside corner and
one outside corner.
Dave


I will be using pins while the adhesive sets but
"Sloping Joints ?" What are they .?


Stuart


A vertical joint is very obvious where two pieces have to join on a run;
if you cut one as an internal mitre and the other as an external mitre
they fit together and it's easier to get an invisible joint. Think
carefully about the cuts before committing hand to saw to coving!

Dave


Ah right .Of course ..

thx
Stuart
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Default Coving Joints and How To Do Them Without Tears

The message
from "shaun" contains these words:

Make your own mitre box from scrap?


Aye - as long as you can get the angles correct for the mitre slots...


Make it so the cove sits upright. Not hard to do, just make the gap
between the sides of the box the same as one face of the cove not its
diagonal length. Once it's made, drop it into whatever mitring system
you already have and cut a slot for the blade. Or just mark it with a
protractor and saw carefully down.

I helped Dad make on in the late 60s and we did the whole house with it
using Gyproc.

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.
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Default Coving Joints and How To Do Them Without Tears


"Stuart" wrote in message
news
On Fri, 25 Aug 2006 16:10:06 +0100, NoSpam wrote:

Stuart wrote:
On Fri, 25 Aug 2006 09:04:37 +0100, NoSpam
wrote:

Stuart wrote:
I am putting 100mm plaster coving around my bathroom ceiling .I have
just done
one seperate section that consisted of 3 straight short lengths with
two
straight ends and two internal corners and that was bad enough .The
main section
still to be done is about 8 Metres with 7 internal corners and 3
external .

I am looking for tips as to how to do this with the minimum of trouble
.I was
using a small plastic device called a Wonder Mitre .I got it years ago
but I see
Axminster have it here

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.a...sfile=1&jump=0

The one I have is plastic and tends to spread when you put any
pressure on it
and if you don't it slips off position . Looking at the Axminster one
it looks
like it might be metal so it could be more practical ..I'd prefer to
make a half
decent job so minimisiing the use of filler although I may be
optimistic in
saying that .

Any advice will be appreciated .
thx
Stuart
Get a cheap mitre saw - I bought one for about £10 from a market
vendor.
Use support pins. Score the wall and paint with dilute PVA. Use sloping
joints if you need to join lengths during a run - one inside corner and
one outside corner.
Dave

I will be using pins while the adhesive sets but
"Sloping Joints ?" What are they .?


Stuart


A vertical joint is very obvious where two pieces have to join on a run;
if you cut one as an internal mitre and the other as an external mitre
they fit together and it's easier to get an invisible joint. Think
carefully about the cuts before committing hand to saw to coving!

Dave


Ah right .Of course ..

thx
Stuart


'Sloping joints' are more usually referred to as 'Scarf' joints .
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scarf_joint
quote The scarf joint is not preferred when strength is required, so it is
most often used in decorative situations, such as the application of trim or
moulding. The scarf joint is commonly used in construction fit out tasks,
including fitting of skirting, picture rails, dado rails or chair rails,
handrails etc.. /quote

BTW: for coving, dado, chair rail skirting board etc ... buy a 'Magic Mitre'
(QVC).
It'll solve all your problems including the scarf joint.

--

Brian


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Default Coving Joints and How To Do Them Without Tears

In message , Guy King
writes
The message
from "shaun" contains these words:

Make your own mitre box from scrap?


Aye - as long as you can get the angles correct for the mitre slots...


Make it so the cove sits upright. Not hard to do, just make the gap
between the sides of the box the same as one face of the cove not its
diagonal length.


Indeed, I use a plastic mitre box - as did my plasterer who did some of
my coving as well. the coving is a bit smaller than the width of the
box, but that is easily solved by fitting piece of batten etc. in of
just the right width to hold it in square.

--
Chris French

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