Hi, please can anyone recommend some batts etc. for sound insulation
for a new stud wall seperating a bathroom and bedroom. Studs (2x4) are
up but plasterboard not attached yet.

I have looked at http://www.soundstop.co.uk/store/products.php which
sells acoustic mineral wool (AMW). This is a good site and gives prices
for other stuff also e.g. Celotex.Their AMW is a lot more expensive
than Wickes General Purpose Insulation.

Lastly, are Resilient Bars and Acoutic Membrane (expensive) worth it?

Thank you

Have a look at Part E of the building regulations, it has examples of
building sound insulating stud walls with commonly available materials
- more emphasis on decoupling each side of the wall than on sound
absorbent material.

http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/eng...000000263.html

In article . com,
nafuk wrote:
Hi, please can anyone recommend some batts etc. for sound insulation
for a new stud wall seperating a bathroom and bedroom. Studs (2x4) are
up but plasterboard not attached yet.

Now's the time to build a second stud wall not touching the first. Clad
both in double thickness plasterboard. Fill with any of the less expensive
sound insulation materials. You'll have adequate sound insulation between
bathroom and bedroom even after a curry...

--
*Always borrow money from pessimists - they don't expect it back *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article . com,
nafuk wrote:
Hi, please can anyone recommend some batts etc. for sound insulation
for a new stud wall seperating a bathroom and bedroom. Studs (2x4) are
up but plasterboard not attached yet.

Now's the time to build a second stud wall not touching the first. Clad
both in double thickness plasterboard. Fill with any of the less expensive
sound insulation materials. You'll have adequate sound insulation between
bathroom and bedroom even after a curry...

--
*Always borrow money from pessimists - they don't expect it back *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Thank you for the replies. I've trimmed the studs and moved them to one
side of the 2x4 sole and header plates, and then inserted some more 2x3
to make offset stud walls. I now notice that I may have to connect
noggins between the studs on one side of the wall to those on the other
side. Will this spoil the sound insulation properties?
Thank you

wrote in message
oups.com...
Have a look at Part E of the building regulations, it has examples of
building sound insulating stud walls with commonly available materials
- more emphasis on decoupling each side of the wall than on sound
absorbent material.
http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/eng...000000263.html

Yep. Best use staggered studs to isolate one side of the wall from the
other, Fermacell prefinished wallboard (don't use two layers of plasterboard
as Fermacell is superior) and rigid Rockwool batts

In article . com,
nafuk wrote:
Thank you for the replies. I've trimmed the studs and moved them to one
side of the 2x4 sole and header plates, and then inserted some more 2x3
to make offset stud walls. I now notice that I may have to connect
noggins between the studs on one side of the wall to those on the other
side. Will this spoil the sound insulation properties?

It will reduce the insulation. Can I ask why you need the noggins?

--
*OK, so what's the speed of dark? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

nafuk wrote:

Thank you for the replies. I've trimmed the studs and moved them to one
side of the 2x4 sole and header plates, and then inserted some more 2x3
to make offset stud walls. I now notice that I may have to connect
noggins between the studs on one side of the wall to those on the other
side. Will this spoil the sound insulation properties?
Thank you

You'll live without noggins. If you want to stabilise against twist and
distortion, a 45 degree piece at top and another at bottom, effectively
bracing to the top and soleplate, will prevent twist if fixed solidly.
It wont prevent warp.


NT

nafuk wrote:

Thank you for the replies. I've trimmed the studs and moved them to one
side of the 2x4 sole and header plates, and then inserted some more 2x3
to make offset stud walls. I now notice that I may have to connect
noggins between the studs on one side of the wall to those on the other
side. Will this spoil the sound insulation properties?
Thank you

You'll live without noggins. If you want to stabilise against twist and
distortion, a 45 degree piece at top and another at bottom, effectively
bracing to the top and soleplate, will prevent twist if fixed solidly.
It wont prevent warp. An L shaped metal bracket top and bottom would do
the same.

Whether these are worth putting in I'm not so sure.


NT

In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
Fermacell prefinished wallboard (don't use two layers of plasterboard
as Fermacell is superior)

More hi-tech expensive 'solutions' where non is needed.

Fermacell costs approx 3 times as much as single plasterboard and doesn't
give as good sound insulation properties as a double layer.

So if sound insulation is the priority and cost an issue stick to
plasterboard.

--
Is the hardness of the butter proportional to the softness of the bread?*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" through a haze of senile
flatulence wrote in message ...
In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:

Fermacell prefinished wallboard (don't
use two layers of plasterboard
as Fermacell is superior)

More hi-tech expensive

Keep your poor comments to yourself. Don't respond to me.

In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
Fermacell prefinished wallboard (don't
use two layers of plasterboard
as Fermacell is superior)

More hi-tech expensive

Keep your poor comments to yourself. Don't respond to me.

189 (pointless posts in 14 days)

But I'm sure you know you must be corrected when you give poor advice,
dribble.

--
*I wished the buck stopped here, as I could use a few*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article . com,
nafuk wrote:
Thank you for the replies. I've trimmed the studs and moved them to one
side of the 2x4 sole and header plates, and then inserted some more 2x3
to make offset stud walls. I now notice that I may have to connect
noggins between the studs on one side of the wall to those on the other
side. Will this spoil the sound insulation properties?

It will reduce the insulation. Can I ask why you need the noggins?

--
*OK, so what's the speed of dark? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

The noggins are for the toilet cistern and basin.
Cheers

In article . com,
nafuk wrote:

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article . com,
nafuk wrote:
Thank you for the replies. I've trimmed the studs and moved them to
one side of the 2x4 sole and header plates, and then inserted some
more 2x3 to make offset stud walls. I now notice that I may have to
connect noggins between the studs on one side of the wall to those
on the other side. Will this spoil the sound insulation properties?

It will reduce the insulation. Can I ask why you need the noggins?

The noggins are for the toilet cistern and basin.
Cheers

Any reason not to just fit them to the bathroom side of the double stud
wall?

--
*Rehab is for quitters.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.