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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Volex flat plate sockets/switches
Do these look ok when fitted in a kitchen in amongst the tiles, do they
not go too far in, making it look silly? |
#2
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Volex flat plate sockets/switches
Thanks for the info.
Would you recommend this flat place ones or would it be better going for the ones that protrude slighty |
#3
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Volex flat plate sockets/switches
The message
from Owain contains these words: You don't fit them or any other electrical accessory "in amongst" the tiles - you take the accessory off the wall and continue the tile a few mm underneath (inside) the perimiter of the accessory, then put the accessory back on the surface of the tile. And doesn't it look vile when some lazy bugger has retiled over the top of old tiles (which is bad enough on its own) and not bothered to lift the sockets and switches out. Uuuurghlenarsty. -- Skipweasel Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain. |
#4
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Volex flat plate sockets/switches
Would you recommend this flat place ones or would it be better going
for the ones that protrude slighty I'd go for flat plate, provided the tiling is done well. Bumpy unevenly laid tiles would look horrible with flat plate. Christian. |
#5
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Volex flat plate sockets/switches
I'd go for flat plate, provided the tiling is done well. Bumpy unevenly laid tiles would look horrible with flat plate. Christian. I agree they would look better but after reading the instructions and some posts on the screwfix forum, I am a bit concerned about how easy they are to fit. One leccy said 'Lugs on the boxes need to be below the plaster considerably or the fittings do not sit flush. In my opinion, they look unfinished and really tacky. i do always fit 35mm boxes just below the surface from now on though, just incase they decide at the last minute that they want them. But touch wood, just one mad lady wanted them so far' I read the fitting instuctions from the site and they do state boxes must be mounted 5mm below the wall surface. This might be a bit of a work up would it not? Perhaps safer just to go with the vloex ones but not the flat plate ones? |
#6
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Volex flat plate sockets/switches
I read the fitting instuctions from the site and they do state boxes
must be mounted 5mm below the wall surface. Less of a problem with tiled walls, as you don't typically install the boxes anywhere near the surface of the tiles. If anything, they generally only protrude from the plaster a couple of mm if at all, leaving a good 10mm or so to the tile surface. Christian. |
#7
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Volex flat plate sockets/switches
Christian McArdle wrote: I read the fitting instuctions from the site and they do state boxes must be mounted 5mm below the wall surface. Less of a problem with tiled walls, as you don't typically install the boxes anywhere near the surface of the tiles. If anything, they generally only protrude from the plaster a couple of mm if at all, leaving a good 10mm or so to the tile surface. Christian. Oops meant to say want to use same sockets throughout and this means on non tiled surfaces so them the box depth may become an issue? |
#8
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Volex flat plate sockets/switches
Oops meant to say want to use same sockets throughout and this means on
non tiled surfaces so them the box depth may become an issue? Yes. If they are already flush, you may need to remove the boxes and dig some more. If you are really lucky, you already have 35mm boxes and can just replace them with 25mm boxes. Christian. |
#9
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Volex flat plate sockets/switches
On 2006-07-27 11:46:53 +0100, "Christian McArdle"
said: Oops meant to say want to use same sockets throughout and this means on non tiled surfaces so them the box depth may become an issue? Yes. If they are already flush, you may need to remove the boxes and dig some more. If you are really lucky, you already have 35mm boxes and can just replace them with 25mm boxes. Christian. It's also worth saying that sometimes the boxes end up being quite deep because of mounting position and depth of tiles. Longer screws for the wiring accessories are available if that happens. |
#10
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Volex flat plate sockets/switches
It's also worth saying that sometimes the boxes end up being quite deep
because of mounting position and depth of tiles. Longer screws for the wiring accessories are available if that happens. And obviously that this is only acceptable if the wall material is non-combustible. Obviously, tiles and adhesive are fire resistant, so a 10mm gap between accessory and box is fine. I'd want to be a lot more careful if the surrounding material is wood. Christian. |
#11
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Volex flat plate sockets/switches
On 2006-07-27 12:12:19 +0100, "Christian McArdle"
said: It's also worth saying that sometimes the boxes end up being quite deep because of mounting position and depth of tiles. Longer screws for the wiring accessories are available if that happens. And obviously that this is only acceptable if the wall material is non-combustible. Obviously, tiles and adhesive are fire resistant, so a 10mm gap between accessory and box is fine. I'd want to be a lot more careful if the surrounding material is wood. Christian. Yes of course. I was thinking more about a box in an existing wall, then addition of a thick layer of tiles. That can easily exceed a standard screw length. |
#12
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Volex flat plate sockets/switches
On 2006-07-27 12:44:45 +0100, Owain said:
Andy Hall wrote: It's also worth saying that sometimes the boxes end up being quite deep because of mounting position and depth of tiles. Longer screws for the wiring accessories are available if that happens. But sometimes may not be available colour-matched to the accessory, if the designer accessory uses designer screws. You can get them for all of MK's range (I've done it), and if not one can always add in a hex bush with male one end female the other to add the spacing. I've done that as well. Although some of these designer accessories do look nice personally I think that good honest Crabtree is a safe bet pretty much anywhere. Mmm... don't like Crabtree stuff... |
#13
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Volex flat plate sockets/switches
In message .com, Gogs
writes I'd go for flat plate, provided the tiling is done well. Bumpy unevenly laid tiles would look horrible with flat plate. Christian. I agree they would look better but after reading the instructions and some posts on the screwfix forum, I am a bit concerned about how easy they are to fit. One leccy said 'Lugs on the boxes need to be below the plaster considerably or the fittings do not sit flush. In my opinion, they look unfinished and really tacky. I've done the kitchen with the Volex black nickel flat stuff. Looks very smart, but the lugs on the box need to be at least 1/4" below the surface of the tiles / wall. The plastic gubbins of the accessory is riveted to the metal front plate through the fixing holes. Generally not to much of a problem if boxes were flush with the plaster, which has then been tiled on top of. But then the screws can be too short if the box is really deep, and they're colour matched screws. On a plastered only wall, I think it would be wise to sink the boxes 2-3mm below flush. -- steve |
#14
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Volex flat plate sockets/switches
I've done the kitchen with the Volex black nickel flat stuff. Looks very smart, but the lugs on the box need to be at least 1/4" below the surface of the tiles / wall. The plastic gubbins of the accessory is riveted to the metal front plate through the fixing holes. Generally not to much of a problem if boxes were flush with the plaster, which has then been tiled on top of. But then the screws can be too short if the box is really deep, and they're colour matched screws. On a plastered only wall, I think it would be wise to sink the boxes 2-3mm below flush. -- steve Cheers for that Steve, so by the sounds of this I would get away with fitting them on the tiled areas of the kitchen but with regards to the rest it would seem a lot of hassle sinking the boxes deeper in, especially with so many sockets and switches to replace, what do you reckon. Just go with the other Volex ones as opposed to the flat plate ones |
#15
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Volex flat plate sockets/switches
In message . com, Gogs
writes I've done the kitchen with the Volex black nickel flat stuff. Looks very smart, but the lugs on the box need to be at least 1/4" below the surface of the tiles / wall. The plastic gubbins of the accessory is riveted to the metal front plate through the fixing holes. Generally not to much of a problem if boxes were flush with the plaster, which has then been tiled on top of. But then the screws can be too short if the box is really deep, and they're colour matched screws. On a plastered only wall, I think it would be wise to sink the boxes 2-3mm below flush. -- steve Cheers for that Steve, so by the sounds of this I would get away with fitting them on the tiled areas of the kitchen but with regards to the rest it would seem a lot of hassle sinking the boxes deeper in, especially with so many sockets and switches to replace, what do you reckon. Just go with the other Volex ones as opposed to the flat plate ones Just measured a spur switch-fuse thats yet to be fitted. Box lug would need to be =6.5mmm below surface, and 35mm boxes for stuff to fit. -- steve |
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