Volex flat plate sockets/switches
 

Do these look ok when fitted in a kitchen in amongst the tiles, do they
not go too far in, making it look silly?

Volex flat plate sockets/switches
 

Thanks for the info.

Would you recommend this flat place ones or would it be better going
for the ones that protrude slighty

Volex flat plate sockets/switches
 

The message
from Owain contains these words:

You don't fit them or any other electrical accessory "in amongst" the
tiles - you take the accessory off the wall and continue the tile a few
mm underneath (inside) the perimiter of the accessory, then put the
accessory back on the surface of the tile.

And doesn't it look vile when some lazy bugger has retiled over the top
of old tiles (which is bad enough on its own) and not bothered to lift
the sockets and switches out. Uuuurghlenarsty.

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.

Volex flat plate sockets/switches
 

Would you recommend this flat place ones or would it be better going
for the ones that protrude slighty

I'd go for flat plate, provided the tiling is done well. Bumpy unevenly laid
tiles would look horrible with flat plate.

Christian.

Volex flat plate sockets/switches
 

I'd go for flat plate, provided the tiling is done well. Bumpy unevenly laid
tiles would look horrible with flat plate.

Christian.


I agree they would look better but after reading the instructions and
some posts on the screwfix forum, I am a bit concerned about how easy
they are to fit.

One leccy said 'Lugs on the boxes need to be below the plaster
considerably or the fittings do not sit flush. In my opinion, they
look unfinished and really tacky.

i do always fit 35mm boxes just below the surface from now on though,
just incase they decide at the last minute that they want them. But
touch wood, just one mad lady wanted them so far'

I read the fitting instuctions from the site and they do state boxes
must be mounted 5mm below the wall surface.

This might be a bit of a work up would it not?

Perhaps safer just to go with the vloex ones but not the flat plate
ones?

Volex flat plate sockets/switches
 

I read the fitting instuctions from the site and they do state boxes
must be mounted 5mm below the wall surface.

Less of a problem with tiled walls, as you don't typically install the boxes
anywhere near the surface of the tiles. If anything, they generally only
protrude from the plaster a couple of mm if at all, leaving a good 10mm or
so to the tile surface.

Christian.

Volex flat plate sockets/switches
 

Christian McArdle wrote:
I read the fitting instuctions from the site and they do state boxes
must be mounted 5mm below the wall surface.

Less of a problem with tiled walls, as you don't typically install the boxes
anywhere near the surface of the tiles. If anything, they generally only
protrude from the plaster a couple of mm if at all, leaving a good 10mm or
so to the tile surface.

Christian.

Oops meant to say want to use same sockets throughout and this means on
non tiled surfaces so them the box depth may become an issue?

Volex flat plate sockets/switches
 

Oops meant to say want to use same sockets throughout and this means on
non tiled surfaces so them the box depth may become an issue?

Yes. If they are already flush, you may need to remove the boxes and dig
some more. If you are really lucky, you already have 35mm boxes and can just
replace them with 25mm boxes.

Christian.

Volex flat plate sockets/switches
 

On 2006-07-27 11:46:53 +0100, "Christian McArdle"
said:

Oops meant to say want to use same sockets throughout and this means on
non tiled surfaces so them the box depth may become an issue?

Yes. If they are already flush, you may need to remove the boxes and dig
some more. If you are really lucky, you already have 35mm boxes and can just
replace them with 25mm boxes.

Christian.

It's also worth saying that sometimes the boxes end up being quite deep
because of mounting position and depth of tiles. Longer screws for
the wiring accessories are available if that happens.

Volex flat plate sockets/switches
 

It's also worth saying that sometimes the boxes end up being quite deep
because of mounting position and depth of tiles. Longer screws for
the wiring accessories are available if that happens.

And obviously that this is only acceptable if the wall material is
non-combustible. Obviously, tiles and adhesive are fire resistant, so a 10mm
gap between accessory and box is fine. I'd want to be a lot more careful if
the surrounding material is wood.

Christian.

Volex flat plate sockets/switches
 

On 2006-07-27 12:12:19 +0100, "Christian McArdle"
said:

It's also worth saying that sometimes the boxes end up being quite deep
because of mounting position and depth of tiles. Longer screws for
the wiring accessories are available if that happens.

And obviously that this is only acceptable if the wall material is
non-combustible. Obviously, tiles and adhesive are fire resistant, so a 10mm
gap between accessory and box is fine. I'd want to be a lot more careful if
the surrounding material is wood.

Christian.

Yes of course. I was thinking more about a box in an existing wall,
then addition of a thick layer of tiles. That can easily exceed a
standard screw length.

Volex flat plate sockets/switches
 

On 2006-07-27 12:44:45 +0100, Owain said:

Andy Hall wrote:
It's also worth saying that sometimes the boxes end up being quite deep
because of mounting position and depth of tiles. Longer screws for
the wiring accessories are available if that happens.

But sometimes may not be available colour-matched to the accessory, if
the designer accessory uses designer screws.

You can get them for all of MK's range (I've done it), and if not one
can always add in a hex bush with male one end female the other to add
the spacing. I've done that as well.


Although some of these designer accessories do look nice personally I
think that good honest Crabtree is a safe bet pretty much anywhere.

Mmm... don't like Crabtree stuff...

Volex flat plate sockets/switches
 

In message .com, Gogs
writes

I'd go for flat plate, provided the tiling is done well. Bumpy unevenly laid
tiles would look horrible with flat plate.

Christian.


I agree they would look better but after reading the instructions and
some posts on the screwfix forum, I am a bit concerned about how easy
they are to fit.

One leccy said 'Lugs on the boxes need to be below the plaster
considerably or the fittings do not sit flush. In my opinion, they
look unfinished and really tacky.


I've done the kitchen with the Volex black nickel flat stuff.
Looks very smart, but the lugs on the box need to be at least 1/4" below
the surface of the tiles / wall. The plastic gubbins of the accessory is
riveted to the metal front plate through the fixing holes. Generally not
to much of a problem if boxes were flush with the plaster, which has
then been tiled on top of.
But then the screws can be too short if the box is really deep, and
they're colour matched screws.
On a plastered only wall, I think it would be wise to sink the boxes
2-3mm below flush.
--
steve

Volex flat plate sockets/switches
 

I've done the kitchen with the Volex black nickel flat stuff.
Looks very smart, but the lugs on the box need to be at least 1/4" below
the surface of the tiles / wall. The plastic gubbins of the accessory is
riveted to the metal front plate through the fixing holes. Generally not
to much of a problem if boxes were flush with the plaster, which has
then been tiled on top of.
But then the screws can be too short if the box is really deep, and
they're colour matched screws.
On a plastered only wall, I think it would be wise to sink the boxes
2-3mm below flush.
--
steve

Cheers for that Steve, so by the sounds of this I would get away with
fitting them on the tiled areas of the kitchen but with regards to the
rest it would seem a lot of hassle sinking the boxes deeper in,
especially with so many sockets and switches to replace, what do you
reckon.

Just go with the other Volex ones as opposed to the flat plate ones

Volex flat plate sockets/switches
 

In message . com, Gogs
writes

I've done the kitchen with the Volex black nickel flat stuff.
Looks very smart, but the lugs on the box need to be at least 1/4" below
the surface of the tiles / wall. The plastic gubbins of the accessory is
riveted to the metal front plate through the fixing holes. Generally not
to much of a problem if boxes were flush with the plaster, which has
then been tiled on top of.
But then the screws can be too short if the box is really deep, and
they're colour matched screws.
On a plastered only wall, I think it would be wise to sink the boxes
2-3mm below flush.
--
steve

Cheers for that Steve, so by the sounds of this I would get away with
fitting them on the tiled areas of the kitchen but with regards to the
rest it would seem a lot of hassle sinking the boxes deeper in,
especially with so many sockets and switches to replace, what do you
reckon.

Just go with the other Volex ones as opposed to the flat plate ones

Just measured a spur switch-fuse thats yet to be fitted. Box lug would
need to be =6.5mmm below surface, and 35mm boxes for stuff to fit.

--
steve