Had to replace a kitchen wall unit that had fallen off a plasterboard wall.
No surprise really, only held up by 2 plastic plasterboard fixings & No More
Nails.

I've re hung it using Metal RediDriva fixings which seem good & strong.

What do you reckon are the strongest plasterboard fixings? Those hollow
wall anchors, plastic plugs (if so which) or the metal redidrives?



--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

The Medway Handyman wrote:
Had to replace a kitchen wall unit that had fallen off a plasterboard
wall. No surprise really, only held up by 2 plastic plasterboard
fixings & No More Nails.

I've re hung it using Metal RediDriva fixings which seem good &
strong.

What do you reckon are the strongest plasterboard fixings? Those
hollow wall anchors, plastic plugs (if so which) or the metal
redidrives?

Your house?someone elses house?

Personaly I'd of got hold of a piece of 2b1 cut out the plasterboard for
this piece of wood and screwed it to the wall and then hung the wall unit.

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

The Medway Handyman wrote:
Had to replace a kitchen wall unit that had fallen off a plasterboard wall.
No surprise really, only held up by 2 plastic plasterboard fixings & No More
Nails.

I've re hung it using Metal RediDriva fixings which seem good & strong.

What do you reckon are the strongest plasterboard fixings? Those hollow
wall anchors, plastic plugs (if so which) or the metal redidrives?

I don't know what RediDriva screws are. For your next job:

If the plasterboard is glued to a breeze-block wall you are in
difficulties. There isn't much more strength in the solid than there is
in the plasterboard.

Ideally the plasterboard should have a couple of lines of adhesive
along the height that kitchen units go. This can then take the brown
plugs for the use of normal adustable bracket fixings that come with
the cupboards.

This is seldom done properly though.

If the plasterboard is on steel studding then a "patress" of 1/2" ply
should be placed under the plasterboard. (TBH I forget how that works.
It's unusual to come across it in a house though.) This holds the steel
in place as well as giving a "ground" to screw to for the cupboard.

Your best bet with either is to offer the cuboard up with a couple of
supports (to take 3 tiles width) from a level worktop. Mark where the
cupboard sides go. (Or plumb up from the end of the floor cupbaods
-note: Note the end of the work-top.)

Cut a couple of battons and fit them to the back of the cupboard; one
at the top and one at the bottom.

Make sure there is enough clearance on the back to take them. There
usually is but you might have to plane a thin skin off the battons.
There is no need to glue them but you might want a tight fit to hold
them while you are working.

Put the cupboard back and get someone to make sure it stays in place
while you drill through with a 4 mm wood-drill for a couple of screws
per batton. Take the cupboard down and put those shell things in the
boards.

Put a little PVA or gripfill on the battons and offer the cupboard up
one more time. Check the pencil marks and screw it home. Four screws
should be enough, use brass cups and space them tidily. If it falls
down again there is a major problem.

Use decent screws not those brittle plasterboard ones.

Don't be ashamed of taking two hours with the first one you do. Just
make sure the job is perfect but you can only charge £10 for, it no
matter how long it takes; to be fair to the customer. They shouldn't be
financing your education.

The next one will be easier and after that you will soon be throwing
them on and a tenner a piece will seem like money for jam.

If you know they are going to tile, you can put a strip of batton along
the wall at 3 tiles (something like 18 or so inches) as it will make
the job quicker and can come off afterwards with no problems.

Weatherlawyer wrote:


I don't know what RediDriva screws are. For your next job:

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...71661&id=11923

If the plasterboard is glued to a breeze-block wall you are in
difficulties. There isn't much more strength in the solid than there
is in the plasterboard.

Nope stud wall.

Ideally the plasterboard should have a couple of lines of adhesive
along the height that kitchen units go. This can then take the brown
plugs for the use of normal adustable bracket fixings that come with
the cupboards.

Say what?

This is seldom done properly though.

Certainly not in this case.

Your best bet with either is to offer the cuboard up with a couple of
supports (to take 3 tiles width) from a level worktop. Mark where the
cupboard sides go. (Or plumb up from the end of the floor cupbaods
-note: Note the end of the work-top.)

Not possible. Existing kitchen, unit had simply fallen off the wall, Old
fixings had pulled out of the wall leaving large exit wounds.

Cut a couple of battons and fit them to the back of the cupboard; one
at the top and one at the bottom.

Good thinking!

Put the cupboard back and get someone to make sure it stays in place
while you drill through with a 4 mm wood-drill for a couple of screws
per batton. Take the cupboard down and put those shell things in the
boards.

Handymen work alone, but not impossible to do.

Don't be ashamed of taking two hours with the first one you do. Just
make sure the job is perfect but you can only charge £10 for, it no
matter how long it takes; to be fair to the customer. They shouldn't
be financing your education.

Actually took an hour and a half. Not a case of the customer finacing my
education, more a case of me having to deal with completely unknown
circumstances until I arrived on site..

Enquiry was 'cupbard has fallen off wall'. Didn't know if it was
plasterboard or solid.

Arrived on site. Found that it was plasterboard and that previous
insufficiant fixings had caused massive exit wounds in PB. Tiles already in
place. Cupboard was a tight fit between architrave, tiles & cooker hood.

Only option was to fix into areas away from previous fixing attempts.

The next one will be easier and after that you will soon be throwing
them on and a tenner a piece will seem like money for jam.

Charging a tenner for such a job is a recipie for rapidly going skint.
Contrary to popular belief, customers don't appreciate these little
'favours' they just take advantage of you.


--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

In article ,
The Medway Handyman wrote:
Had to replace a kitchen wall unit that had fallen off a plasterboard
wall. No surprise really, only held up by 2 plastic plasterboard
fixings & No More Nails.

I've re hung it using Metal RediDriva fixings which seem good & strong.

What do you reckon are the strongest plasterboard fixings? Those hollow
wall anchors, plastic plugs (if so which) or the metal redidrives?

No plasterboard fixing is strong enough for wall cupboards - period.

--
*There are two sides to every divorce: Yours and **** head's*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In message .com,
Weatherlawyer writes

The Medway Handyman wrote:
Had to replace a kitchen wall unit that had fallen off a plasterboard wall.
No surprise really, only held up by 2 plastic plasterboard fixings & No More
Nails.

I've re hung it using Metal RediDriva fixings which seem good & strong.

What do you reckon are the strongest plasterboard fixings? Those hollow
wall anchors, plastic plugs (if so which) or the metal redidrives?

I don't know what RediDriva screws are.

One of the better plasterboard fixings A metal insert is screwed into
the wall, then the fixing screw screws into this. They do make a very
secure fixing. I had radiators hanging off them in my old house, and a
curtain track fitted to the ceiling.

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...05596&id=11923


Best ones for heavy duty use have a little toggle on the end as well

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...05723&id=12635



I reckon they are best fixings (as opposed to fixing battens etc.) the
OP could have used.



--
Chris French

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
The Medway Handyman wrote:
Had to replace a kitchen wall unit that had fallen off a plasterboard
wall. No surprise really, only held up by 2 plastic plasterboard
fixings & No More Nails.

I've re hung it using Metal RediDriva fixings which seem good & strong.

What do you reckon are the strongest plasterboard fixings? Those hollow
wall anchors, plastic plugs (if so which) or the metal redidrives?

No plasterboard fixing is strong enough for wall cupboards - period.

I tend to agree.

Maybe a full length batten epoxied to the plasterboard..but nothing less..

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
No plasterboard fixing is strong enough for wall cupboards - period.

I think I'd agree with that, trouble is the entire world will shortly be
built of the stuff! This particular kitchen only had one solid wall.



--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

The Medway Handyman wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
No plasterboard fixing is strong enough for wall cupboards - period.

I think I'd agree with that, trouble is the entire world will shortly be
built of the stuff! This particular kitchen only had one solid wall.



That's when I think in terms of whacking up one made of MDF...that will
take screws pretty well.

And emulsion paint.

In article ,
The Medway Handyman wrote:
No plasterboard fixing is strong enough for wall cupboards - period.

I think I'd agree with that, trouble is the entire world will shortly be
built of the stuff! This particular kitchen only had one solid wall.

What was the plasterboard fixed to? If studding, you fix to that. If dot
and dab you'll need to go through to the main wall.

I've seen a wall cupboard properly fixed to a brick wall with 3" screws
come off when loaded up with tinned foodstuffs.

--
*Hard work pays off in the future. Laziness pays off now *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

The Medway Handyman wrote:

What do you reckon are the strongest plasterboard fixings? Those hollow
wall anchors, plastic plugs (if so which) or the metal redidrives?

I quite like these, more resistant to pulling out than a redidrive, but
just as good in shear :

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...69391&id=12229

Used them for hanging rads in the past.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

John Rumm wrote:

I quite like these, more resistant to pulling out than a redidrive, but
just as good in shear :

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...69391&id=12229

Agreed - and you can get them in sizes up to M6. Rawlplug's "Interset"
is the original version.

--
Andy

John Rumm wrote:

I quite like these, more resistant to pulling out than a redidrive,
but just as good in shear :

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...69391&id=12229

Used them for hanging rads in the past.

Thanks John I'll give them a try.


--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

The Medway Handyman wrote:

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...69391&id=12229

Used them for hanging rads in the past.


Thanks John I'll give them a try.

Ony thing to watch is they take far more screwing that you expect the
first tim you use them ;-) (the thread on the bolt has a much finer
pitch than your normal twinthread woodscrew - so you can be twiddling
for some time with a power driver thinking "is anything happening"!)

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

The message
from John Rumm contains these words:

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...69391&id=12229

Used them for hanging rads in the past.

All the rads that've been rehung in this house (which is most of them)
are held up with those. They've survived various kids using them as
ladders.

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.

On Sat, 27 May 2006 13:52:13 +0000, The Medway Handyman wrote:

Had to replace a kitchen wall unit that had fallen off a plasterboard wall.
No surprise really, only held up by 2 plastic plasterboard fixings & No More
Nails.

I've re hung it using Metal RediDriva fixings which seem good & strong.

What do you reckon are the strongest plasterboard fixings? Those hollow
wall anchors, plastic plugs (if so which) or the metal redidrives?

I also rate the screwfix ones, but they can spin round in the hole and
then it's a bit of a struggle.

Stronger than any plasterboard fitting (but more work) I drill a big hole
(with my biggest downlighter hole saw) then slip a piece of wood through
and stuck it to the back of the plasterboard to spread the load, then
screw through into that. A couple of small screws into the wood and/or
solvent-free gripfill to stick it stop you losing it down the back if you
have to remove the fitting any time. Then glue the circular cutout back
into the hole with solvent-free to finish off.

John Stumbles wrote:

Stronger than any plasterboard fitting (but more work) I drill a big
hole (with my biggest downlighter hole saw) then slip a piece of wood
through and stuck it to the back of the plasterboard to spread the
load, then screw through into that. A couple of small screws into the
wood and/or solvent-free gripfill to stick it stop you losing it down
the back if you have to remove the fitting any time. Then glue the
circular cutout back into the hole with solvent-free to finish off.

Brilliant! Thank you very much!


--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257