Ok, this might sound a rather basic question, but its based upon years
of experience of inadequate wall fixings...

I'm about to mount two large computer desks on battens in our toy room
(cf. "Home Office"), with much of the weight to be taken by desk legs.

The desks will occupy the complete length of an outside wall of the room
(3.6m), and one side is also an outside wall, the other is a stud wall.
These two ends of the table will need battens approx 1m in length
(excessive length due to the curved ends of the desks).

Now, the interior walls are plasterboard over timber frame, so I'm just
going to find where the studs are and screw the battens into those -
that much is straight-forward.

Where I've come unstuck in the past, however, is with the exterior
walls. These are dry-lined, plasterboard blob-bonded to cement block
(with an exterior brick wall - but I'm hoping not to go quite that
far!). B&Q et all sell various devices for various wall types, e.g.
plasterboard fixings, concrete block fixings, etc.

Now, I think I'm right in saying that plasterboard fixings are not
appropriate here - I need the fixing to go into the blocks behing the
plasterboard. BUT, the block fixings that I've seen are intended for
direct mounting (i.e. the head of the fixing is flush with the block -
I've got the small issue of 12mm of plasterboard + air gap in the way.

In a case like this (where I don't want to rip the plasterboard off the
wall unintentionally) any suggestions as to the "best" wall fixings?
(plus, if possible, a URL so I know what you're referring to)

Mike

Mike,

How about using sleeved anchor bolt:
(http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...16418&id=12838)
or a thru bolt:
(http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...16578&id=19909)?

If you got one long enough to go through the plasterboard & air gap, with
the expanding tip in the blockwork....?

Might work (might not.....!)

James


"Mike Dodd" wrote in message
...
Ok, this might sound a rather basic question, but its based upon years
of experience of inadequate wall fixings...

I'm about to mount two large computer desks on battens in our toy room
(cf. "Home Office"), with much of the weight to be taken by desk legs.

The desks will occupy the complete length of an outside wall of the room
(3.6m), and one side is also an outside wall, the other is a stud wall.
These two ends of the table will need battens approx 1m in length
(excessive length due to the curved ends of the desks).

Now, the interior walls are plasterboard over timber frame, so I'm just
going to find where the studs are and screw the battens into those -
that much is straight-forward.

Where I've come unstuck in the past, however, is with the exterior
walls. These are dry-lined, plasterboard blob-bonded to cement block
(with an exterior brick wall - but I'm hoping not to go quite that
far!). B&Q et all sell various devices for various wall types, e.g.
plasterboard fixings, concrete block fixings, etc.

Now, I think I'm right in saying that plasterboard fixings are not
appropriate here - I need the fixing to go into the blocks behing the
plasterboard. BUT, the block fixings that I've seen are intended for
direct mounting (i.e. the head of the fixing is flush with the block -
I've got the small issue of 12mm of plasterboard + air gap in the way.

In a case like this (where I don't want to rip the plasterboard off the
wall unintentionally) any suggestions as to the "best" wall fixings?
(plus, if possible, a URL so I know what you're referring to)

Mike

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Mike Dodd wrote:

Ok, this might sound a rather basic question, but its based upon years
of experience of inadequate wall fixings...

I'm about to mount two large computer desks on battens in our toy room
(cf. "Home Office"), with much of the weight to be taken by desk legs.

The desks will occupy the complete length of an outside wall of the
room (3.6m), and one side is also an outside wall, the other is a
stud wall. These two ends of the table will need battens approx 1m in
length (excessive length due to the curved ends of the desks).

Now, the interior walls are plasterboard over timber frame, so I'm
just going to find where the studs are and screw the battens into
those - that much is straight-forward.

Where I've come unstuck in the past, however, is with the exterior
walls. These are dry-lined, plasterboard blob-bonded to cement block
(with an exterior brick wall - but I'm hoping not to go quite that
far!). B&Q et all sell various devices for various wall types, e.g.
plasterboard fixings, concrete block fixings, etc.

Now, I think I'm right in saying that plasterboard fixings are not
appropriate here - I need the fixing to go into the blocks behing the
plasterboard. BUT, the block fixings that I've seen are intended for
direct mounting (i.e. the head of the fixing is flush with the block -
I've got the small issue of 12mm of plasterboard + air gap in the way.

In a case like this (where I don't want to rip the plasterboard off
the wall unintentionally) any suggestions as to the "best" wall
fixings? (plus, if possible, a URL so I know what you're referring to)

Mike

It's not easy - unless you happen to be lucky, and drill in a place where
there's a blob of adhesive - in which case normal rawlplugs are ok.

You can drill right through into the blocks and insert a parallel sided
rawlplug (the sort which doesn't have a flange on the end) plus long screws.
The trouble with that is that it tends to bend the plasterboard as it tries
to pull it closer to the blockwork.

For light fixings, you can use special Easi-drivers - such as
http://tinyurl.com/cu333 - which screw into the board, and then take a
smaller screw to hold the object in question.

For heavy fixings, the best bet - in my opinion - is to cut away a small
pice of plasterboard (maybe a 1" diameter circle) and use some solid packing
(e.g. short length of broomstick) behind your heavy object - which is then
firmly attached to the blockwork.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.

Mike Dodd wrote:
Ok, this might sound a rather basic question, but its based upon years
of experience of inadequate wall fixings...

Hi Mike

I reckon you only have two choices here because fixing to the plasterboard
won't be strong enough and if you fix through it, when you tighten up the
fixings it will bend/crack the board.

One is to build a frame to take the weight of the desk and fix that to the
plasterboard - maybe with 'no more nails' or similar just so it doesn't tip
forward or rack sideways. The weight would be held by the frame between
floor & desk.

Second option as I see it would be to carefully mark the position of the
battens along the wall, then cut out a strip of plasterboard so the batten
is recessed in and can be fixed direct to the brickwork. Very strong and
easy enough to make good if you ever decided to remove it. You would just
need battens 12mm or so thicker.

HTH

Dave

In article , Mike Dodd
wrote:

Now, I think I'm right in saying that plasterboard fixings are not
appropriate here - I need the fixing to go into the blocks behing the
plasterboard. BUT, the block fixings that I've seen are intended for
direct mounting (i.e. the head of the fixing is flush with the block -
I've got the small issue of 12mm of plasterboard + air gap in the way.

80mm hammer in wallplugs like Screwfix 13953 or frame fixings (17286) or
other lengths to suit did the trick fine for me when I put a shelf on a
dry lined wall recently. Don't hammer them hard though or you could push
the plasterboard back towards the wall, just tap them in gently until
they line up with the surface and tighten up the screws with a
screwdriver.

--
Mike Clarke

James Amor wrote:
Mike,

How about using sleeved anchor bolt:
(http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...16418&id=12838)
or a thru bolt:
(http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...16578&id=19909)?

If you got one long enough to go through the plasterboard & air gap, with
the expanding tip in the blockwork....?

Might work (might not.....!)

James


Bloody Hell James!!! (Don't worry, I know him)

Talk about the proverbial sledge-hammer to crack a nut!

I think the real issue here is like others have said - the risk to
distorting the plasterboard around the fixing.

other suggestions... I don't like the idea of chasing a channel out
of the plasterboard (yes, it does sound the best solution, but very
messy), I might give the extra-long plugs a try and see how they cope,
or drilling say 25mm radius holes and using dowels etc (thanks, Set Square).

Mike Dodd wrote:
James Amor wrote:

Mike,

How about using sleeved anchor bolt:
(http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...16418&id=12838)
or a thru bolt:
(http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...16578&id=19909)?

If you got one long enough to go through the plasterboard & air gap, with
the expanding tip in the blockwork....?

Might work (might not.....!)

James


Bloody Hell James!!! (Don't worry, I know him)

Talk about the proverbial sledge-hammer to crack a nut!

I think the real issue here is like others have said - the risk to
distorting the plasterboard around the fixing.

other suggestions... I don't like the idea of chasing a channel out
of the plasterboard (yes, it does sound the best solution, but very
messy), I might give the extra-long plugs a try and see how they cope,
or drilling say 25mm radius holes and using dowels etc (thanks, Set
Square).

Phukket! (nice place to visit, apparently)

In fact, in the cold light of (checks behind curtain) night, I think
I'll stick to additional legs, and leave gravity to hold it together.
The formed batten I had produced for EACH desk (yes, two desks, 180cm
each, each with a 180cm batten) can be added to the underside of each
desk as a strengthener and I'll raid all the local Homebases for all the
legs that they stock.

Rubby-Ducky decision point reached.

Thanks to all for pursuading me not to knock down a wall.

"Mike Clarke" wrote in message
...
In article , Mike Dodd
wrote:

Now, I think I'm right in saying that plasterboard fixings are not
appropriate here - I need the fixing to go into the blocks behing the
plasterboard. BUT, the block fixings that I've seen are intended for
direct mounting (i.e. the head of the fixing is flush with the block -
I've got the small issue of 12mm of plasterboard + air gap in the way.

80mm hammer in wallplugs like Screwfix 13953 or frame fixings (17286) or
other lengths to suit did the trick fine for me when I put a shelf on a
dry lined wall recently. Don't hammer them hard though or you could push
the plasterboard back towards the wall, just tap them in gently until they
line up with the surface and tighten up the screws with a screwdriver.

--
Mike Clarke

It's a real problem - perhaps Plasplugs can get their mind around it. Many
items have keyhole slots that need to have a screw tightly fastened into the
wall - yet with nothing to tighten up to many plugs will not open and grip.

John

Mike Dodd wrote:

Now, I think I'm right in saying that plasterboard fixings are not
appropriate here - I need the fixing to go into the blocks behing the
plasterboard. BUT, the block fixings that I've seen are intended for
direct mounting (i.e. the head of the fixing is flush with the block -
I've got the small issue of 12mm of plasterboard + air gap in the way.

I think this is easier to solve than other people are making out.

Mark up the position of the holes on the wall and drill deep holes
through the plasterboard, air gap and into the wall; I say 'deep'
because when you put the rawlplugs in, you're going to want the loading
to borne by the blocks, not the plasterboard. Don't put the rawlplugs
in yet though.

Next, procure yourself a tube of glue (something like:
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=100470&ts=98467&id=64958
and inject this at an angle into the holes, in all directions - the
object being to pack as much as you can into the dreaded airspace around
your hole. If it gets *down* the hole you'll need to fish it out with
a bit of wire or something.

If it's awkward to get the glue in, or you're not confident it's getting
where it should, an alternative would be to drill a few more holes in a
circle around the existing hole, at an angle, pointing in to the
existing hole, and inject down those as well. When you see glue
emerging from other holes, you'll know the underlying airspace is now
packed with glue. The new holes will all be hidden by the batten.

Finally, insert standard rawlplugs and leave it alone until the glue has
set. At that point you'll be able to screw on the battens with
impunity, as you've eradicated the airspace directly underneath.

David

Mike Dodd wrote:
I'll raid all the local Homebases for all
the legs that they stock.

IKEA have a huge range of table legs very cheap. Worth a look?

Dave

david lang wrote:
Mike Dodd wrote:
I'll raid all the local Homebases for all

the legs that they stock.


IKEA have a huge range of table legs very cheap. Worth a look?

Dave


Hmmm, but worth a trip? (gah, only ever been once... Warrington, day
after New-Year's day, a few years ago, absolute hell on earth!)

....but might have a look online, anyway

In article , john
wrote:

It's a real problem - perhaps Plasplugs can get their mind around it.
Many items have keyhole slots that need to have a screw tightly
fastened into the wall - yet with nothing to tighten up to many plugs
will not open and grip.

Use a fixing that expands by pulling a wedge up through the plug like
Screwfix 79612. Use it to temporarily screw a small piece of plywood to
the wall first to set the plug. Then unscrew and discard the ply. Works
OK but be careful not to push too hard on the screw as you remove and
replace it. Be prepared for a fairly high wastage of plugs though, I've
found that the wedge sometimes just spins round with the screw and
doesn't pull up to expand the plug :-(

Metal hollow wall anchors (Screwfix 72229) are good for this too, if you
use the setting tool (12429) instead of a screwdriver to expand them.

--
Mike Clarke