I removed the old tiles from the kitchen a while ago, but found that a
in some places, the plaster came with it (old 1930's semi). Attempting
to repair the plaster was difficult (for me!) and as a result, I have a
bit of a wobbly plastering result.

I thought I could cover for some of the undulations when I came to
re-tile - however I realised that I need to pack out the tiles a little
to fill in the gap between the wall and the worktop (long story, but I
can't change it now!).

The gap (around 12mm in places) is probably too much to make up for with
adhesive - so I wondered what else I could do - and I came up with
plasterboard!

My plan is to plasterboard the wall from the worktop to the wall mounted
cupboards (60cm gap?) and then just tile on top of it. It'll fill in
the small gap behind the worktop, even out the wall, and give a better
finish to tile onto.

However, I wish to fix it directly onto the existing wall. I'm guessing
that plasterboard adhesive might be best - less likely to introduce
undulations as screwing might - and doesn't require battens etc (which
would make the tiles too far forward for my liking.

Any thoughts? The area to be tiled is about 60cm high max and about 3m
long (with the final about 50cm being about 1.2m high - when the worktop
ends - this taller bit will just be painted, not tiled.) Any problems
with fixing plasterboard to walls with adhesive and then tiling? Grout
cracking in future? Whole thing coming off the wall? Hollow sounding wall?

What thickness plasterboard should I use? The thinner the better for me
- but I don't want it flexing.

I've never used plasterboard before - I'm going to avoid any joins in
the board where it is visible - so where I paint it, the joint will be
under the tiled section. So I'll plan on using square edge sheets.

Thanks

David

On Thu, 29 Dec 2005 12:50:31 +0000, David Hearn wrote:

The gap (around 12mm in places) is probably too much to make up for with
adhesive - so I wondered what else I could do - and I came up with
plasterboard!

You can get "thick bed" tile adhesive, but it's a bugger to use.

However, I wish to fix it directly onto the existing wall. I'm guessing
that plasterboard adhesive might be best - less likely to introduce
undulations as screwing might - and doesn't require battens etc (which
would make the tiles too far forward for my liking.

Plasterers use plaster to fix plasterboard, but any product that
adheres to paper and plaster will do.

What thickness plasterboard should I use? The thinner the better for me
- but I don't want it flexing.

9mm will be fine, just dab adhesive at 150mm centres.

I've never used plasterboard before - I'm going to avoid any joins in
the board where it is visible - so where I paint it, the joint will be
under the tiled section. So I'll plan on using square edge sheets.

Either will do, make sure the joint is in the middle of a tile.

If you haven't used PB before, note that you can cut it in two ways:
with an old saw, or (easier) cut through the paper one side, then fold
back along the line until it cracks, then cut paper the other side.

--
Nigel M

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Nigel Molesworth wrote:


9mm will be fine, just dab adhesive at 150mm centres.

Note that the adhesive is quite stiff, and starts as a dollop which gets
partially flattened as you push the board up the wall. Even so, you'll have
a job to reduce the gap much below about 1/2" (sorry about the mixed units
g) - so the surface of the board will be about 20mm out from the wall,
when fitted. [It's a good idea to press the board against the wall with a
substantial piece of straight timber (maybe 100 x 50 x 1 metre) frequently
checking verticality with a level.]


If you haven't used PB before, note that you can cut it in two ways:
with an old saw, or (easier) cut through the paper one side, then fold
back along the line until it cracks, then cut paper the other side.

My preference is the second method - it's a *lot* less messy. Use a straight
edge and sharp Stanley knife to score the first side. It will snap easily
along the score line, just leaving the paper on the other side to be cut.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
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On Thu, 29 Dec 2005 15:35:43 -0000, Set Square wrote:

a job to reduce the gap much below about 1/2"

If you want less, try something like "No more Nails"

--
Nigel M

[quote=David Hearn]I removed the old tiles from the kitchen a while ago, but found that a
in some places, the plaster came with it (old 1930's semi). Attempting
to repair the plaster was difficult (for me!) and as a result, I have a
bit of a wobbly plastering result.

I thought I could cover for some of the undulations when I came to
re-tile - however I realised that I need to pack out the tiles a little
to fill in the gap between the wall and the worktop (long story, but I
can't change it now!).

The gap (around 12mm in places) is probably too much to make up for with
adhesive - so I wondered what else I could do - and I came up with
plasterboard!

My plan is to plasterboard the wall from the worktop to the wall mounted
cupboards (60cm gap?) and then just tile on top of it. It'll fill in
the small gap behind the worktop, even out the wall, and give a better
finish to tile onto.

However, I wish to fix it directly onto the existing wall. I'm guessing
that plasterboard adhesive might be best - less likely to introduce
undulations as screwing might - and doesn't require battens etc (which
would make the tiles too far forward for my liking.

Any thoughts? The area to be tiled is about 60cm high max and about 3m
long (with the final about 50cm being about 1.2m high - when the worktop
ends - this taller bit will just be painted, not tiled.) Any problems
with fixing plasterboard to walls with adhesive and then tiling? Grout
cracking in future? Whole thing coming off the wall? Hollow sounding wall?

What thickness plasterboard should I use? The thinner the better for me
- but I don't want it flexing.

I've never used plasterboard before - I'm going to avoid any joins in
the board where it is visible - so where I paint it, the joint will be
under the tiled section. So I'll plan on using square edge sheet

why dont you tile the wall then fit upstands to the worktops