I've read the previous threads on this subject and need some help
making them come together.
Bought my pure tin, tallow, and Bakers No5,
Scoured my pan with de-greaser and dipped in caustic soda to be sure of
getting rid of the grease,
Wire wooled the surface
Applied the Bakers No 5 flux by poring it in the bottom and wiping
around the sides with an old rag.
First tried to heat the pan with a blow torch - but couldn't get the
all-over heat. So put the pan on the stove.
When hot enough put a tin stick in the pan and it melted easily on the
bottom.
However the molten tin went into pools and wouldn't adhere to areas of
the pan bottom or the sides - it just flowed over these areas
Any suggestions on what to try next would be greatly appreciated
Are there any web-sites with step by step pictures ?
DO I need more heat

thanks

Denis

wrote:

I've read the previous threads on this subject and need some help
making them come together.
Bought my pure tin, tallow, and Bakers No5,
Scoured my pan with de-greaser and dipped in caustic soda to be sure of
getting rid of the grease,
Wire wooled the surface
Applied the Bakers No 5 flux by poring it in the bottom and wiping
around the sides with an old rag.
First tried to heat the pan with a blow torch - but couldn't get the
all-over heat. So put the pan on the stove.
When hot enough put a tin stick in the pan and it melted easily on the
bottom.
However the molten tin went into pools and wouldn't adhere to areas of
the pan bottom or the sides - it just flowed over these areas
Any suggestions on what to try next would be greatly appreciated
Are there any web-sites with step by step pictures ?
DO I need more heat

thanks

Denis

I will watch with fascination - I might want to do this.

On the heating aspect, I wonder if you might be better off using a barbeque
with a *big* pile of charcoal - hollowed out in the middle and some metal
sheet/bricks around the side so you can get most of the pan down into the
hot coals. It runs the risk of over-heating but it might give a quicker and
more useable heat source?...

On an aside, but vaguely relevant, I used a barbie and a hoover in blow mode
to melt a load of old lead piping down when I was a lad (probably explains
my current senility!) - worked a treat, so I would expect some success with
tin.

BTW - where did you buy the tin?

Tim

denis wrote:
Bought my pure tin, tallow, and Bakers No5

Tallow and Bakers? WTF's that for? Buy a decent flux like Laco
and have a go with that, put it on a rag as well as on the pan.
Don't get it too hot, just hot enough is best or you'll burn
the flux.

Chris Bacon wrote:

denis wrote:
Bought my pure tin, tallow, and Bakers No5

Tallow and Bakers? WTF's that for? Buy a decent flux like Laco
and have a go with that, put it on a rag as well as on the pan.
Don't get it too hot, just hot enough is best or you'll burn
the flux.

Ahh - Bakers. The flux for everything. Last tin I used was probably made
in 1950 - didn't know they still did it.

The only caution I'd have is: are either fluxes suitable for
cooking utensils, assuming the OP is going to make things in said pan?
Don't want to use something grossly toxic unless you can be sure of removing
it 100% afterwards.

Tallow is obviously safe...

Just my 2p's worth.

Cheers

Tim

Tim S wrote:
Chris Bacon wrote:
denis wrote:
Bought my pure tin, tallow, and Bakers No5

Tallow and Bakers? WTF's that for? Buy a decent flux like Laco
and have a go with that, put it on a rag as well as on the pan.
Don't get it too hot, just hot enough is best or you'll burn
the flux.

The only caution I'd have is: are either fluxes suitable for
cooking utensils, assuming the OP is going to make things in said pan?

He's going to tin it. I assume he's going to wash it up afterwards.


Don't want to use something grossly toxic unless you can be sure of removing
it 100% afterwards.

Sigh. Also, Laco flux is extensively used in plumbing of potable and
non-potable supplies. It's water-soluble.


Tallow is obviously safe...

And it doesn't work very well compared to a decent flux.


Just my 2p's worth.

An old bronze one, or a new copper plated one?

On Tue, 21 Feb 2006 17:39:18 +0000, Tim S wrote:

assuming the OP is going to make things in said pan?

I doubt it, tin can be toxic, that's why they put lacquer on the
inside of "tin" cans.

--
Nigel M

Nigel Molesworth wrote:
Tim S wrote:
assuming the OP is going to make things in said pan?

I doubt it, tin can be toxic, that's why they put lacquer on the
inside of "tin" cans.

You can buy new tinned copper utensils with tinned insides,
and they're nice and expensive. The solder used in plumbing
potable supplies is now virtually pure copper. If lacquer
is applied to the insides of tins, why use tin at all? Tin
doesn't last wonderfully well, so it needs replacing. I
prefer stainless steel pans, myself, although I've got some
Stellar laminated ones, which are OK, but a PITA if you want
them bright on the outside. See:

http://www.hartsofstur.com/acatalog/Lamina_Copper.html

brought next idea :
However the molten tin went into pools and wouldn't adhere to areas of
the pan bottom or the sides - it just flowed over these areas
Any suggestions on what to try next would be greatly appreciated
Are there any web-sites with step by step pictures ?
DO I need more heat

I don't know what the purpose of this is, but I would suggest the
problem is too much heat in the wrong places - in other words burnt
flux. Burnt flux will prevent tinning.

If if were trying to do this, I would be trying to wipe the solder on a
small area at a time - just as they used to plumb lead pipes. Clean the
entire area, then heat a small area and apply the tin just as soon as
the surface is hot enough for it to become plastic. Then gradually wipe
the tin around, chasing it with the heat source and cloth.

--

Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

Chris Bacon wrote:

Tim S wrote:

The only caution I'd have is: are either fluxes suitable for
cooking utensils, assuming the OP is going to make things in said pan?

He's going to tin it. I assume he's going to wash it up afterwards.

Assuming the stuff is water soluable.


Don't want to use something grossly toxic unless you can be sure of
removing it 100% afterwards.

Sigh. Also, Laco flux is extensively used in plumbing of potable and
non-potable supplies. It's water-soluble.

Double sigh. I haven't heard of Laco - therefore the caution is
perfectly reasonable to raise - and is now answered.



Tallow is obviously safe...

And it doesn't work very well compared to a decent flux.

True enough.


Just my 2p's worth.

An old bronze one, or a new copper plated one?

New one - they're great if you run out of large washers and have a drill
handy.

"Tim S" wrote in message
...
Chris Bacon wrote:

denis wrote:
Bought my pure tin, tallow, and Bakers No5

Tallow and Bakers? WTF's that for? Buy a decent flux like Laco
and have a go with that, put it on a rag as well as on the pan.
Don't get it too hot, just hot enough is best or you'll burn
the flux.

Ahh - Bakers. The flux for everything. Last tin I used was probably made
in 1950 - didn't know they still did it.

The only caution I'd have is: are either fluxes suitable for
cooking utensils, assuming the OP is going to make things in said pan?
Don't want to use something grossly toxic unless you can be sure of
removing
it 100% afterwards.

Well, if it's properly tinned there'd be no problem. There'd be no free
flux.

Tallow is obviously safe...

Don't bet on that!

Mary

wrote:

I've read the previous threads on this subject and need some help
making them come together.
Bought my pure tin, tallow, and Bakers No5,
Scoured my pan with de-greaser and dipped in caustic soda to be sure of
getting rid of the grease,
Wire wooled the surface
Applied the Bakers No 5 flux by poring it in the bottom and wiping
around the sides with an old rag.
First tried to heat the pan with a blow torch - but couldn't get the
all-over heat. So put the pan on the stove.
When hot enough put a tin stick in the pan and it melted easily on the
bottom.
However the molten tin went into pools and wouldn't adhere to areas of
the pan bottom or the sides - it just flowed over these areas
Any suggestions on what to try next would be greatly appreciated
Are there any web-sites with step by step pictures ?
DO I need more heat

thanks

Denis


You did right to apply the flux all over, otherwise the metal would
quickly oxidise and be untinnable. But heated flux goes manky,
overheated flux goes very manky, and sticks to the metal. Hence the tin
never even touches the metal. To get the tin to stick you have to
scrape the metal while its got molten tin on it. When the tin sees the
Cu it'll stick. Lots of scraping ahead, and I take it you know you wont
get an even shiny finish, but it will get tinned. It'll be a bit
ripply/bobbly.


NT

Tim S wrote:
Chris Bacon wrote:
Tim S wrote:
Just my 2p's worth.

An old bronze one, or a new copper plated one?

New one - they're great if you run out of large washers and have a drill
handy.

Goodness Gracious! Defacing the Queen's currency! Mr. S., I'm shocked.







P.S. Didn't mean to sound ratty.

In message , Chris Bacon
writes
Tim S wrote:
Chris Bacon wrote:
Tim S wrote:
Just my 2p's worth.

An old bronze one, or a new copper plated one?
New one - they're great if you run out of large washers and have a
drill
handy.

Goodness Gracious! Defacing the Queen's currency! Mr. S., I'm shocked.


P.S. Didn't mean to sound ratty.


It's PMT, isn't it

Whatever, you seem to have a sulk on - I know the feeling

--
geoff

raden wrote:
Chris Bacon writes
[ blah blah blah ]
It's PMT, isn't it

No, but[2].


Whatever, you seem to have a sulk on - I know the feeling

Can't deny it. What's it all about, Raden[1]?



[1]Close, anyway. I suppose I could start an OT conversation
about films. "If you can't beat 'em, join 'em". Maybe not.
What was that film? Surely not just called "Alfie"?


[2] WTF has it taken *five hours* to make Sunday lunch?

*BECAUSE IT HAS!*