Hi,

My Hoover A8576 washer dryer is old and is continually breaking, but
I've become attached to it so I wonder if you can help me save it one
more time?

Washing works fine, but when it comes to drying, the heating element
isn't getting hot and the timer wheel at the front of the machine
doesn't run down.

The motor that blows the air into the drum is working fine.

Can you tell me which connections to connect my multimeter to diagnose
the problem (continuity testing etc)

I've previously put a new drain pump in and I'm pretty clued up
electrically, and obviously any advice you give will be at my own risk.

I've used the wonder of the internet to provide photos of the
element, with connections highlighted with letters to aid description!!
(I'm hopeful this link will work

http://www.wmathias.f2s.com/wm.htm

Cheers in advance,

Will

The motor that blows the air into the drum is working fine.

If its anything like the POS Hoover washer dryer I had, there`s likely
to be a small resettable overheat somewhere on the top near the air
intake / fan blower.

--
Please add the word "newsgroup" in the subject line of personal emails
**** My email address includes "ngspamtrap" and " ****

Hi Colin, many thanks for helping. I've looked for one and I can't see
anything thatlooks like a button etc

On 19 Jan 2006 07:29:50 -0800, "Will"
wrote:

Hi,

My Hoover A8576 washer dryer is old and is continually breaking, but
I've become attached to it so I wonder if you can help me save it one
more time?

Washing works fine, but when it comes to drying, the heating element
isn't getting hot and the timer wheel at the front of the machine
doesn't run down.

The motor that blows the air into the drum is working fine.

Can you tell me which connections to connect my multimeter to diagnose
the problem (continuity testing etc)

You could check for mains power reaching the heating element.

--
Frank Erskine

Hi Frank, thanks for replying, There's power to each of the connections
b to i

"Will" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi,

My Hoover A8576 washer dryer is old and is continually breaking, but
I've become attached to it so I wonder if you can help me save it one
more time?

Washing works fine, but when it comes to drying, the heating element
isn't getting hot and the timer wheel at the front of the machine
doesn't run down.

The motor that blows the air into the drum is working fine.

Can you tell me which connections to connect my multimeter to diagnose
the problem (continuity testing etc)

I've previously put a new drain pump in and I'm pretty clued up
electrically, and obviously any advice you give will be at my own risk.

I've used the wonder of the internet to provide photos of the
element, with connections highlighted with letters to aid description!!
(I'm hopeful this link will work

http://www.wmathias.f2s.com/wm.htm

Cheers in advance,

Will


the little bit in the middle with the grey and brown leads looks like an
overheat device.

On 19 Jan 2006 09:28:18 -0800, "Will"
wrote:

Hi Frank, thanks for replying, There's power to each of the connections
b to i

Remove the connections from B C D E and measure resistance

I'm guessing there should be a resistance reading between each pair,
probably horizontally, possibly vertically. Let us know.

Andy

Hi Mr Cheerful, thanks for helping. What would I do with it (I've
marked it's connection K and L in the diagram) to reset it? or would I
fit a new one?

Will wrote:

My Hoover A8576 washer dryer is old and is continually breaking, but
I've become attached to it so I wonder if you can help me save it one
more time?

Washing works fine, but when it comes to drying, the heating element
isn't getting hot and the timer wheel at the front of the machine
doesn't run down.

The motor that blows the air into the drum is working fine.

When my Creda did exactly this, it was the thermostat (a bimetallic
strip, so obviously identifiable) which had disintegrated; a simple diy
job to replace it.

David

Cheers Guys, Andy - Thanks for your reply, I'll get right on the
resistance measurement, and get back to you all with the results ()My
multimeter has decided to not work today of all days). Lobster, I've
looked and I can't see and Bimetallic strip?

"Will" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi Mr Cheerful, thanks for helping. What would I do with it (I've
marked it's connection K and L in the diagram) to reset it? or would I
fit a new one?


Will,

There may be either a automatically resetting thermal cutout that's gone
wrong, or a thermal fuse that's blown. All examples of the latter that I've
seen are bullet shaped with a metallic looking body and a coloured plastic
tip, with the leads arranged axially. These are non-resettable and are
sometimes crimped, sometimes welded into place. You can't solder them in
without destroying them. Oh! Probably about 10-12 mm long and 3-4 mm
diameter. Had one go on a Creda tumble dryer once and was able to crimp a
new one in. If it is one of these, take a look at:

http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?...470& doy=19m1

But be sure to get the correct temperature rating.

HTH,

Steve S

Hi there
FIRST THING FIRST UNPLUG THE MACHINE !!!

unless you know what your doing it is not safe or necessary to test the machine live, I do this job for a living (www.annis-domestics.co.uk)

The first thing to check will be the overheat stat (k+l) remove both wires and check for continuity, between the 2 tags, This is the most common fault on these, this is usually a push re-set device, but yours looks like a one hit type. so when it's gone , it's gone !!!

If there is continuity between on that one then check the other 2 front one in the same way.

The heater elements are 2 separate elements b-d and c-e check continuity on those tags too, it is unlikely to be a heater though.

if all the above check out OK then it will be the dryer timer. this can be replaced without too much hassle but again, these are usually reliable.

IMPORTANT !!!!! If (as I suspect) the cut out at K+L has failed, then it usually fails for a reason, this is usually the condenser blocked (white chamber that goes from the back of the drum to the fan) YOU MUST CLEAR THIS OUT. or it will fail again quickly !!!!

If you need a new stat, just post your model number (will start A8) and I will dig one out for you.

Hope the above helps


Pat