Folks

I am looking for a LONG straight router cutter, to cut a grove in a
piece of oak.

Ideally I want to get to a 75mm depth, about 12mm in diamater, but
anything arround that size will be OK. The best I can find is 63mm, I
suppose I could be brave/stupid and not put it into the collect fully.

I am cutting a rebate for a door, into a lintel. We have cut the
lintel out of an oak branch, so the bottom still has the bark on it.
The curved shape has ment a good bit of material has to be accuratly
removed. The current attack plan is to cut the edge of the hole with
the router, and then hack out the middle with a chizel.

I am hoping not to have to change this plan.

While I am asking, I also want some long straight edges, to clamp to
some wonkey oak planks, and drive the router along to strighten the
edges. So far the favorite plan is to get som 5x75mm aliminimum strip
from the local stocksest, is this a good plan, or is there a better
way. These planks have upto an inch of "wonk" in them.

Thanks
Rick

Rick wrote:
Folks

I am looking for a LONG straight router cutter, to cut a grove in a
piece of oak.

Ideally I want to get to a 75mm depth, about 12mm in diamater, but
anything arround that size will be OK. The best I can find is 63mm

this any good ? 70mm O/L

http://www.trendmachinery.co.uk/prof...2%2F6LX1%2F4TC

hth

On Tue, 03 Jan 2006 17:33:23 GMT, "." [email protected] wrote:

Rick wrote:
Folks

I am looking for a LONG straight router cutter, to cut a grove in a
piece of oak.

Ideally I want to get to a 75mm depth, about 12mm in diamater, but
anything arround that size will be OK. The best I can find is 63mm

this any good ? 70mm O/L

http://www.trendmachinery.co.uk/prof...2%2F6LX1%2F4TC

hth


The overall length is 70, which means I would have nothing to hold in
the collect - thanks anyway.

I searched that site + axmisnter before I asked, as they are normally
having what I find myself in need of.

Rick

"Rick" wrote in message
...
Folks

I am looking for a LONG straight router cutter, to cut a grove in a
piece of oak.

Ideally I want to get to a 75mm depth, about 12mm in diamater, but
anything arround that size will be OK. The best I can find is 63mm, I
suppose I could be brave/stupid and not put it into the collect fully.

I am cutting a rebate for a door, into a lintel. We have cut the
lintel out of an oak branch, so the bottom still has the bark on it.
The curved shape has ment a good bit of material has to be accuratly
removed. The current attack plan is to cut the edge of the hole with
the router, and then hack out the middle with a chizel.

I am hoping not to have to change this plan.

While I am asking, I also want some long straight edges, to clamp to
some wonkey oak planks, and drive the router along to strighten the
edges. So far the favorite plan is to get som 5x75mm aliminimum strip
from the local stocksest, is this a good plan, or is there a better
way. These planks have upto an inch of "wonk" in them.

Thanks
Rick

====================
If all else fails you could try a 'saw drill' in an ordinary hand drill. I
have a set made by 'rolson' (lower case 'r' is correct) which has three
sizes - 3, 6 and 8mm. The 8mm is about 95mm long which should be OK for
your
job, although I think they're rather a crude tool for general use.

Is there any reason why you shouldn't use a plane or saw for straightening
your planks? Perhaps I've misunderstood the nature of your job.

Cic.

Rick wrote:
Folks

I am looking for a LONG straight router cutter, to cut a grove in a
piece of oak.

Ideally I want to get to a 75mm depth, about 12mm in diamater, but
anything arround that size will be OK. The best I can find is 63mm, I
suppose I could be brave/stupid and not put it into the collect fully.

I am cutting a rebate for a door, into a lintel. We have cut the
lintel out of an oak branch, so the bottom still has the bark on it.
The curved shape has ment a good bit of material has to be accuratly
removed. The current attack plan is to cut the edge of the hole with
the router, and then hack out the middle with a chizel.

I am hoping not to have to change this plan.

While I am asking, I also want some long straight edges, to clamp to
some wonkey oak planks, and drive the router along to strighten the
edges. So far the favorite plan is to get som 5x75mm aliminimum strip
from the local stocksest, is this a good plan, or is there a better
way. These planks have upto an inch of "wonk" in them.

Thanks
Rick


Use a large circular saw and chisel?

Dave

Rick wrote:
I am looking for a LONG straight router cutter, to cut a grove in a
piece of oak.

You are a druid AICMFFMOM


I am cutting a rebate for a door, into a lintel. We have cut the
lintel out of an oak branch, so the bottom still has the bark on it.
The curved shape has ment a good bit of material has to be accuratly
removed. The current attack plan is to cut the edge of the hole with
the router, and then hack out the middle with a chizel.

Can't you use a circular saw?

On Tue, 03 Jan 2006 18:10:30 +0000, Chris Bacon
wrote:

Rick wrote:
I am looking for a LONG straight router cutter, to cut a grove in a
piece of oak.

You are a druid AICMFFMOM


I am cutting a rebate for a door, into a lintel. We have cut the
lintel out of an oak branch, so the bottom still has the bark on it.
The curved shape has ment a good bit of material has to be accuratly
removed. The current attack plan is to cut the edge of the hole with
the router, and then hack out the middle with a chizel.

Can't you use a circular saw?

I have a sexy expensive, accurate, easy to use router, and a cheep
crappy hard to use, saw - see thread on cheep tools.

The tool of last resort, is a mallet & chizel, and of cource the
sharpening stone.

Rick

On Tue, 03 Jan 2006 17:32:21 GMT, Rick wrote:

I am looking for a LONG straight router cutter, to cut a grove in a
piece of oak.

I would much rather saw this than rout it. I would even rather make up
a one-off plywood sled so that I could pass it throgh my nice safe
tablesaw rather than routing it. I might even saw it by hand (with a
bellied floorboard saw) rather than routing it.

Ideally I want to get to a 75mm depth, about 12mm in diamater,

These are easy enough to find. There's not many of them, but you can
usually find 3" - try looking under kitchen worktop trimmers. I think
mine are Trends of about 1/2" and there's a Yellow Axminster one too
with a bearing guide (at the shank end) that sees an awful lot of use
for multi-part template routing.

I am cutting a rebate for a door, into a lintel. We have cut the
lintel out of an oak branch, so the bottom still has the bark on it.

You know this is going to twist like crazy don't you, especially if it's
branch wood. I'd certainly cut it almost to shape, leave it a week to
settle down then re-cut it to the line. Even then I wouldn't use this
branch for a few years after cutting it. I use oak "knees" to make
curved chair backs without having to steam them, but I like those to be
at least 5 years old first.

Also watch out for bugs. Most of the domestic oak pests like to live
_just_ under the bark layer, around the thin sapwood. I'd poison it
before use, or else expect that in a few years time the bark splits off
and you're left with bare tunnels.


While I am asking, I also want some long straight edges, to clamp to
some wonkey oak planks, and drive the router along to strighten the
edges.

Long straight edge guides are an essential add-on for any serious
routing. It's worth finding good ones (but don't part with proper money
for them, that's just not decent). Solid aluminium is too flexible
relative to its weight, you're better with box sections. Mine are scrap
from windowframe makers.

On Tue, 03 Jan 2006 20:05:24 +0000, Andy Dingley
wrote:

On Tue, 03 Jan 2006 17:32:21 GMT, Rick wrote:

I am looking for a LONG straight router cutter, to cut a grove in a
piece of oak.

I would much rather saw this than rout it. I would even rather make up
a one-off plywood sled so that I could pass it throgh my nice safe
tablesaw rather than routing it. I might even saw it by hand (with a
bellied floorboard saw) rather than routing it.

Ideally I want to get to a 75mm depth, about 12mm in diamater,

These are easy enough to find. There's not many of them, but you can
usually find 3" - try looking under kitchen worktop trimmers. I think
mine are Trends of about 1/2" and there's a Yellow Axminster one too
with a bearing guide (at the shank end) that sees an awful lot of use
for multi-part template routing.

I am cutting a rebate for a door, into a lintel. We have cut the
lintel out of an oak branch, so the bottom still has the bark on it.

You know this is going to twist like crazy don't you, especially if it's
branch wood. I'd certainly cut it almost to shape, leave it a week to
settle down then re-cut it to the line. Even then I wouldn't use this
branch for a few years after cutting it. I use oak "knees" to make
curved chair backs without having to steam them, but I like those to be
at least 5 years old first.

Also watch out for bugs. Most of the domestic oak pests like to live
_just_ under the bark layer, around the thin sapwood. I'd poison it
before use, or else expect that in a few years time the bark splits off
and you're left with bare tunnels.


While I am asking, I also want some long straight edges, to clamp to
some wonkey oak planks, and drive the router along to strighten the
edges.

Long straight edge guides are an essential add-on for any serious
routing. It's worth finding good ones (but don't part with proper money
for them, that's just not decent). Solid aluminium is too flexible
relative to its weight, you're better with box sections. Mine are scrap
from windowframe makers.

Thanks for the advice, I'll look for some box section.

When I say "branch" for the lintel, its like 14x8 inches, and 70
inches long. For the tree huggers, its from a fallen tree, not one
that we cut down. I expect it to crack and srink a bit as it dries
over the next 50-100 years.

Rick

Rick wrote:

While I am asking, I also want some long straight edges, to clamp to
some wonkey oak planks, and drive the router along to strighten the
edges.

As Andy Hall said, this isn't a job for a router. Saw table or circular
saw.

Go buy a circular saw - you can't live without one anyway.

Dave

On Tue, 03 Jan 2006 20:17:16 GMT, Rick wrote:

On Tue, 03 Jan 2006 20:05:24 +0000, Andy Dingley
wrote:

On Tue, 03 Jan 2006 17:32:21 GMT, Rick wrote:

I am looking for a LONG straight router cutter, to cut a grove in a
piece of oak.

I would much rather saw this than rout it. I would even rather make up
a one-off plywood sled so that I could pass it throgh my nice safe
tablesaw rather than routing it. I might even saw it by hand (with a
bellied floorboard saw) rather than routing it.

Ideally I want to get to a 75mm depth, about 12mm in diamater,

These are easy enough to find. There's not many of them, but you can
usually find 3" - try looking under kitchen worktop trimmers. I think
mine are Trends of about 1/2" and there's a Yellow Axminster one too
with a bearing guide (at the shank end) that sees an awful lot of use
for multi-part template routing.

I am cutting a rebate for a door, into a lintel. We have cut the
lintel out of an oak branch, so the bottom still has the bark on it.

You know this is going to twist like crazy don't you, especially if it's
branch wood. I'd certainly cut it almost to shape, leave it a week to
settle down then re-cut it to the line. Even then I wouldn't use this
branch for a few years after cutting it. I use oak "knees" to make
curved chair backs without having to steam them, but I like those to be
at least 5 years old first.

Also watch out for bugs. Most of the domestic oak pests like to live
_just_ under the bark layer, around the thin sapwood. I'd poison it
before use, or else expect that in a few years time the bark splits off
and you're left with bare tunnels.


While I am asking, I also want some long straight edges, to clamp to
some wonkey oak planks, and drive the router along to strighten the
edges.

Long straight edge guides are an essential add-on for any serious
routing. It's worth finding good ones (but don't part with proper money
for them, that's just not decent). Solid aluminium is too flexible
relative to its weight, you're better with box sections. Mine are scrap
from windowframe makers.

Thanks for the advice, I'll look for some box section.

When I say "branch" for the lintel, its like 14x8 inches, and 70
inches long. For the tree huggers, its from a fallen tree, not one
that we cut down. I expect it to crack and srink a bit as it dries
over the next 50-100 years.

a year for every inch thick.

Expect at least 10% overall reduction tangential to the grain, 5 % across
the grain, and about 1% along it., and massive warps and checks as well.

After 4 years my 12x12 green oak beams are now 3/4" narrower than they
were, and over a 6 meter span, about 6mm shorter..

One has developed a 3 degree twist. Another is bowed out by almost an
inch.....there are cracks you can put your fingers in.

I'll redecorate and use mastic filler in another year IICBA..

Rick

On Wed, 4 Jan 2006 01:46:40 +0000, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:

On Tue, 03 Jan 2006 20:17:16 GMT, Rick wrote:

On Tue, 03 Jan 2006 20:05:24 +0000, Andy Dingley
wrote:

On Tue, 03 Jan 2006 17:32:21 GMT, Rick wrote:

I am looking for a LONG straight router cutter, to cut a grove in a
piece of oak.

I would much rather saw this than rout it. I would even rather make up
a one-off plywood sled so that I could pass it throgh my nice safe
tablesaw rather than routing it. I might even saw it by hand (with a
bellied floorboard saw) rather than routing it.

Ideally I want to get to a 75mm depth, about 12mm in diamater,

These are easy enough to find. There's not many of them, but you can
usually find 3" - try looking under kitchen worktop trimmers. I think
mine are Trends of about 1/2" and there's a Yellow Axminster one too
with a bearing guide (at the shank end) that sees an awful lot of use
for multi-part template routing.

I am cutting a rebate for a door, into a lintel. We have cut the
lintel out of an oak branch, so the bottom still has the bark on it.

You know this is going to twist like crazy don't you, especially if it's
branch wood. I'd certainly cut it almost to shape, leave it a week to
settle down then re-cut it to the line. Even then I wouldn't use this
branch for a few years after cutting it. I use oak "knees" to make
curved chair backs without having to steam them, but I like those to be
at least 5 years old first.

Also watch out for bugs. Most of the domestic oak pests like to live
_just_ under the bark layer, around the thin sapwood. I'd poison it
before use, or else expect that in a few years time the bark splits off
and you're left with bare tunnels.


While I am asking, I also want some long straight edges, to clamp to
some wonkey oak planks, and drive the router along to strighten the
edges.

Long straight edge guides are an essential add-on for any serious
routing. It's worth finding good ones (but don't part with proper money
for them, that's just not decent). Solid aluminium is too flexible
relative to its weight, you're better with box sections. Mine are scrap
from windowframe makers.

Thanks for the advice, I'll look for some box section.

When I say "branch" for the lintel, its like 14x8 inches, and 70
inches long. For the tree huggers, its from a fallen tree, not one
that we cut down. I expect it to crack and srink a bit as it dries
over the next 50-100 years.

a year for every inch thick.

Expect at least 10% overall reduction tangential to the grain, 5 % across
the grain, and about 1% along it., and massive warps and checks as well.

After 4 years my 12x12 green oak beams are now 3/4" narrower than they
were, and over a 6 meter span, about 6mm shorter..

One has developed a 3 degree twist. Another is bowed out by almost an
inch.....there are cracks you can put your fingers in.

I'll redecorate and use mastic filler in another year IICBA..

I used 10x6 oak last year for a truss, and roof ridge beams, so far
there has been little movment. I don't know what counts as "green",
but the tree we used had been down a few years. It will be up at least
2 years, before the heating gets switched on, which sounds like a good
thing to me, as it will dry more slowley.

The inch per year thing sounds a bit off to me, if you buy seasoned
8x4 oak, its 20+ years old, and 20+ times more expensive than green.

To keep the beams "luckly" coins should be shoved into the cracks,
mastics and the likes should not be used. IMHO as the beams move some
more over time, the mastic looks far worse than the cracks.

Personally I think this moviment and cracks adds to the overall look.

If you have lots of bare oak in the house, you need an ash log
somewhere, for the nasties to eat, rather than the oak. The ash should
be burnt and replaced every year.

Rick


Rick

On Tue, 03 Jan 2006 17:32:21 GMT, Rick wrote:

Folks

I am looking for a LONG straight router cutter, to cut a grove in a
piece of oak.

Ideally I want to get to a 75mm depth, about 12mm in diamater, but
anything arround that size will be OK. The best I can find is 63mm, I
suppose I could be brave/stupid and not put it into the collect fully.

That would be *really* unwise......

However, I believe that Freud, Trend and CMT all have cutters of this
length. In Freud's case I have a feeling I saw these sizes in their
industrial tools catalogue (might have been Trend) - you have to call
them and ask - sorry but I don't have mine with me ATM.


I am cutting a rebate for a door, into a lintel. We have cut the
lintel out of an oak branch, so the bottom still has the bark on it.
The curved shape has ment a good bit of material has to be accuratly
removed. The current attack plan is to cut the edge of the hole with
the router, and then hack out the middle with a chizel.

I am hoping not to have to change this plan.

It's a bit hard for me to visualise all of the dimensions and what
will ultimately be visible.

Do you need a smart, clean edge all the way to the bottom of the
channel? I'm wondering if you could get away with using a saw to
make the initial cut, and then trim using the router, but basically
not bothering to do that to the full depth.


While I am asking, I also want some long straight edges, to clamp to
some wonkey oak planks, and drive the router along to strighten the
edges. So far the favorite plan is to get som 5x75mm aliminimum strip
from the local stocksest, is this a good plan, or is there a better
way. These planks have upto an inch of "wonk" in them.

Thanks
Rick

--

..andy

Rick wrote:
Folks

I am looking for a LONG straight router cutter, to cut a grove in a
piece of oak.

Ideally I want to get to a 75mm depth, about 12mm in diamater, but
anything arround that size will be OK. The best I can find is 63mm, I
suppose I could be brave/stupid and not put it into the collect fully.

I am cutting a rebate for a door, into a lintel. We have cut the
lintel out of an oak branch, so the bottom still has the bark on it.
The curved shape has ment a good bit of material has to be accuratly
removed. The current attack plan is to cut the edge of the hole with
the router, and then hack out the middle with a chizel.

I am hoping not to have to change this plan.

While I am asking, I also want some long straight edges, to clamp to
some wonkey oak planks, and drive the router along to strighten the
edges. So far the favorite plan is to get som 5x75mm aliminimum strip
from the local stocksest, is this a good plan, or is there a better
way. These planks have upto an inch of "wonk" in them.

Thanks
Rick


You might want to try calling Unilap in Doncaster 01302 858530 they
supply industrial router bits and I have bought a number for our CNC
router. Cant remember the collet size for our khead attachment I am
afraid but know we have a 80mm cut depth on one of the lock cutters it
houses (Just have to be carefully of cutter wobble at that length) and I
remember using a v cutter on the head from a standard router set so
should be compatible Guy to speak to is Steve Dobson

Hope this helps