Hi all,

Seems my issue with my Potterton Kingfisher MF CF 60 boiler got worse. I
know it worked this morning as we had heating and hot water. Now, I dont
have a pilot light.
Can you light these manually?

Scott

Well, tried to light manually and wont, so I am wondering of there is
air in the system or os there a valve that maybe stuck?

Scott

On Sun, 01 Jan 2006 09:44:58 GMT, Scott
wrote:

Hi all,

Seems my issue with my Potterton Kingfisher MF CF 60 boiler got worse. I
know it worked this morning as we had heating and hot water. Now, I dont
have a pilot light.
Can you light these manually?

Has the gas supply failed?

--
Frank Erskine

Good idea - just checked and no, thats working fine

Scott

On Sun, 01 Jan 2006 09:44:58 GMT, Scott
wrote:

Hi all,

Seems my issue with my Potterton Kingfisher MF CF 60 boiler got worse. I
know it worked this morning as we had heating and hot water. Now, I dont
have a pilot light.
Can you light these manually?

Scott

I'm sure you already have this but just in case:
http://www.potterton.co.uk/products/...User_Guide.pdf
and see page 2

Hi,

Got that printout out - the pilot light still wont light and just keep
getting the clicking noise.

Was even thinking of signing upto one of these Heating cover plans but
they wont allow you to sign up and call someone out straight away

Scott

In article ,
Scott wrote:
Seems my issue with my Potterton Kingfisher MF CF 60 boiler got worse. I
know it worked this morning as we had heating and hot water. Now, I dont
have a pilot light.
Can you light these manually?

Has it been serviced? The pilot jet in these blocks up with crud over the
years and eventually won't light from the igniter. It can also be too
small to operate the thermocouple. I'm assuming you have the procedure for
lighting it - they can sometimes just blow out.

--
*Do infants enjoy infancy as much as adults enjoy adultery? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Actually have the service planned for in 2 weeks.
The pilot looks like its wanting to light as can see the flicker of the
igniter, also tried with a match, no go.

Scott

"Scott" wrote in message
...
Actually have the service planned for in 2 weeks.
The pilot looks like its wanting to light as can see the flicker of the
igniter, also tried with a match, no go.

Scott

Can you remove the pilot gas tube, and blow through it? That's all that my
friendly CORGI chap did some years ago to service my Potterton boiler. (It
worked, and it still works many years on.)

--
M Stewart
Milton Keynes, UK
http://www.megalith.freeserve.co.uk/oddimage.htm

Hi,

I am going to replace the the thermalcouple with a universal one and go
from there as its only a £5 at B&Q.

What does anyone think - possible??

Scott

"Scott" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I am going to replace the the thermalcouple with a universal one and go
from there as its only a £5 at B&Q.

What does anyone think - possible??

Scott

A new thermocouple won't make any difference if you aren't getting any
pilot. Is there voltage getting to the gas valve? If so, faulty gas valve,
if not possibly a faulty PCB.

Angus

In message , Scott
writes
Hi all,

Seems my issue with my Potterton Kingfisher MF CF 60 boiler got worse.
I know it worked this morning as we had heating and hot water. Now, I
dont have a pilot light.
Can you light these manually?



I know of the electronic ignition version but then that also has a fan
in it

Is this a perm. Pilot version ?
If you can't manually light the pilot at all, either you don't have gas
coming through or you're not pressing the button to allow gas through

I heard of a case a while back where someone had accidentally shut off
the main gas cock by dropping a bag on it


--
geoff

In message , Scott
writes
Hi,

Got that printout out - the pilot light still wont light and just keep
getting the clicking noise.

Ah, so it does have electronic ignition

There are two options (assuming you have gas and no blockage)

Either the pcb isn't powering the pilot valve or the gas valve's not
opening - the most likely reason being that the solenoid has gone open
circuit

You need a meter to check the resistance of the solenoid, and if this is
not open circuit, you need to test that there is mains across it when it
is sparking


Was even thinking of signing upto one of these Heating cover plans but
they wont allow you to sign up and call someone out straight away

Scott

--
geoff

Looks like no gas is coming through, so am thinking stuck valve or
solenoid. No way to release I think?

Scott

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , Scott
writes
Hi all,

Seems my issue with my Potterton Kingfisher MF CF 60 boiler got worse. I
know it worked this morning as we had heating and hot water. Now, I dont
have a pilot light.
Can you light these manually?



I know of the electronic ignition version but then that also has a fan in
it


Does this boiler have a fan and is it running when the ignitor is
"clicking"? Some boilers require a pressure difference to turn on the main
burner but this condition may also apply to the pilot.

Just a thought.

In article ,
Scott wrote:
Actually have the service planned for in 2 weeks.
The pilot looks like its wanting to light as can see the flicker of the
igniter, also tried with a match, no go.

First thing I'd do is remove the pilot jet and check it's clear.

--
*When you've seen one shopping centre you've seen a mall.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In message , Fred
writes

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , Scott
writes
Hi all,

Seems my issue with my Potterton Kingfisher MF CF 60 boiler got worse. I
know it worked this morning as we had heating and hot water. Now, I dont
have a pilot light.
Can you light these manually?



I know of the electronic ignition version but then that also has a fan in
it


Does this boiler have a fan and is it running when the ignitor is
"clicking"? Some boilers require a pressure difference to turn on the main
burner but this condition may also apply to the pilot.

The "CF" (conventionally flued) indicated to me that it was not fan
flued


Just a thought.



--
geoff

In message , Scott
writes
Looks like no gas is coming through, so am thinking stuck valve

More likely when it's not been in use for a while

A good thump might release it

or solenoid.

As I said, you need to test if it's gone open circuit

No way to release I think?

Scott

--
geoff

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , Fred
writes

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , Scott
writes
Hi all,

Seems my issue with my Potterton Kingfisher MF CF 60 boiler got worse. I
know it worked this morning as we had heating and hot water. Now, I dont
have a pilot light.
Can you light these manually?



I know of the electronic ignition version but then that also has a fan
in
it


Does this boiler have a fan and is it running when the ignitor is
"clicking"? Some boilers require a pressure difference to turn on the
main
burner but this condition may also apply to the pilot.

The "CF" (conventionally flued) indicated to me that it was not fan flued


Just a thought.



--
geoff

Plus the OP said he was getting 'sparking' at the pilot, this wouldn't
happen until a fan had proved any air pressure switch.

Angus

In message , Fentoozler
writes

Does this boiler have a fan and is it running when the ignitor is
"clicking"? Some boilers require a pressure difference to turn on the
main
burner but this condition may also apply to the pilot.

The "CF" (conventionally flued) indicated to me that it was not fan flued


Just a thought.



--
geoff

Plus the OP said he was getting 'sparking' at the pilot, this wouldn't
happen until a fan had proved any air pressure switch.

Yes - conflicting info to my mind.

Really the OP needs to say whether it's got an electronic control or not
(part No 407779 - a black module about 3" x 6" which stands on four
legs)


--
geoff

Hi,

Its an electronic model I think. Just had a mate whos a builder round,
we rekon it could be the solenoid on the gas valve or the valve itself.
Aiming for the valve itself as had on /off issues with the boiler firing
up when being prompted to heat the room. Not sure you can even buy the
solenoid separatly

Scott

In message , Scott
writes
Hi,

Its an electronic model I think. Just had a mate whos a builder round,
we rekon it could be the solenoid on the gas valve or the valve itself.
Aiming for the valve itself as had on /off issues with the boiler
firing up when being prompted to heat the room. Not sure you can even
buy the solenoid separatly

Well, have you done what I said, and measured the resistance of the
solenoid ?

--
geoff

Well, if I knew how I would. I have a volt metre, the solenoid has a 4
wire imput and its also heavily sealed.

http://www.potterton.co.uk/products/...MF_Install.pdf

Any ideas?

Scott

In message , Scott
writes
Well, if I knew how I would. I have a volt metre, the solenoid has a 4
wire imput and its also heavily sealed.

http://www.potterton.co.uk/products/...ingfisher_MF_I
nstall.pdf

Any ideas?

Measure it at the control module - it has a schematic on top and you can
also gain access to the pins of the connectors

--
geoff

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , Scott
writes
Well, if I knew how I would. I have a volt metre, the solenoid has a 4
wire imput and its also heavily sealed.

http://www.potterton.co.uk/products/...ingfisher_MF_I
nstall.pdf

Any ideas?

Measure it at the control module - it has a schematic on top and you can
also gain access to the pins of the connectors

IIRC the coil has four pins to a split winding a-b and c-d but I can't
recall the resistances therein. An el (very) cheapo multimeter will only
cost around a tenner or less so bite the bullet

In message , John
writes

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , Scott
writes
Well, if I knew how I would. I have a volt metre, the solenoid has a 4
wire imput and its also heavily sealed.

http://www.potterton.co.uk/products/...ingfisher_MF_I
nstall.pdf

Any ideas?

Measure it at the control module - it has a schematic on top and you can
also gain access to the pins of the connectors

IIRC the coil has four pins to a split winding a-b and c-d but I can't
recall the resistances therein.

Realistically, we're only looking to see if there's a finite resistance
or an open circuit at the end of the day

An el (very) cheapo multimeter will only
cost around a tenner or less so bite the bullet



--
geoff

"John" writes:

IIRC the coil has four pins to a split winding a-b and c-d but I can't
recall the resistances therein. An el (very) cheapo multimeter will only
cost around a tenner or less so bite the bullet

Sounds a bit like my Honeywell model. In which case it's a couple of k
on one coil and a few more k on the other. Of the five pins, pin 3 is
earth and there is a connection between 2,4 . Rectified mains being
applied across 1,5. In my case though it got lower and ran hotter
until open circuit failure. I now have one ok winding on each of my
failed valves. Thank f**k I reinstated the immersion heater in this
house.

Jon

In message , Jonathan Schneider
writes
"John" writes:

IIRC the coil has four pins to a split winding a-b and c-d but I can't
recall the resistances therein. An el (very) cheapo multimeter will only
cost around a tenner or less so bite the bullet

Sounds a bit like my Honeywell model.

A large proportion of gas valves are Honeywell ones - they're not all
the same, and certainly not the same as yours

In which case it's a couple of k
on one coil and a few more k on the other. Of the five pins, pin 3 is
earth and there is a connection between 2,4 . Rectified mains being
applied across 1,5. In my case though it got lower and ran hotter
until open circuit failure. I now have one ok winding on each of my
failed valves. Thank f**k I reinstated the immersion heater in this
house.

Jon

--
geoff