My old B&D has seized. It's the ball race. And it appears to be turning in
the housing. I will repair it if the parts aren't too dear, but in the
meantime need another. Given I don't use one much, what's the pick of the
cheapies - more like 100 quid than 300?

--
*When companies ship Styrofoam, what do they pack it in? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" through a haze of senile
flatulence wrote in message ...
My old B&D has seized. It's the ball race. And it appears to be turning in
the housing. I will repair it if the parts aren't too dear, but in the
meantime need another. Given I don't use one much, what's the pick of the
cheapies - more like 100 quid than 300?

PP Pro @ £49 (3 year guarantee). 1/2" so can do kitchen worktops and comes
with bits and worktop jig "guide". So all you need is a £49 Screwfix jig and
for les than £100 you can cut worktops and much more.
http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav/nav.jsp?action=detail&fh_secondid=7940070&fh_searc h=router&fh_eds=%c3%9f&fh_refview=search&ts=113507 5231797

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
My old B&D has seized. It's the ball race. And it appears to be
turning in the housing. I will repair it if the parts aren't too
dear, but in the meantime need another. Given I don't use one much,
what's the pick of the cheapies - more like 100 quid than 300?

Homebase have a PB Excel on offer at present (bright blue colour) for less
than £20!! Was being sold around £60.

I'm well pleased with mine.

Dave

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

My old B&D has seized. It's the ball race. And it appears to be turning in
the housing. I will repair it if the parts aren't too dear, but in the
meantime need another. Given I don't use one much, what's the pick of the
cheapies - more like 100 quid than 300?

What size machine are you looking for? (i.e. 1/4" or 1/2"). What sort of
work do you normally do with it? Do you need to mount it in a table?

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

"david lang" wrote in message
. uk...
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
My old B&D has seized. It's the ball race. And it appears to be
turning in the housing. I will repair it if the parts aren't too
dear, but in the meantime need another. Given I don't use one much,
what's the pick of the cheapies - more like 100 quid than 300?

Homebase have a PB Excel on offer at present (bright blue colour) for less
than £20!! Was being sold around £60.

1/2"?

On Tue, 20 Dec 2005 10:14:03 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

My old B&D has seized. It's the ball race. And it appears to be turning in
the housing. I will repair it if the parts aren't too dear, but in the
meantime need another. Given I don't use one much, what's the pick of the
cheapies - more like 100 quid than 300?

I looked at routers at the Axminster show. Really nothing much has
changed. Those in the sub £100 category continue to have poor and
sticky slide mechanisms. For a router, this makes them hard to use.

If you are looking for a viable 12.7mm model then the Freud FT2000
(Screwfix at £168) is a good buy. I've used one of these a few times
and found it smooth and adequately powered, although I have the DW625
now.

For a 6.35mm model, the Trend T5 is a good workhorse at around £110.
I've had one of these for some while and it continues to perform well.



--

..andy

Doctor Drivel wrote:

PP Pro @ £49 (3 year guarantee). 1/2" so can do kitchen worktops and

http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav/nav.jsp?action=detail&fh_secondid=7940070&fh_searc h=router&fh_eds=%c3%9f&fh_refview=search&ts=113507 5231797

What is the speed range supported on this?


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
What size machine are you looking for? (i.e. 1/4" or 1/2").

The B&D was 1/4 and 1/2 - so I'd like the same since I have a selection of
bits.

What sort of work do you normally do with it? Do you need to mount it
in a table?

I only use it hand held at the moment - although a table might be a future
option.

--
*When everything's coming your way, you're in the wrong lane *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
My old B&D has seized. It's the ball race. And it appears to be
turning in the housing. I will repair it if the parts aren't too
dear, but in the meantime need another. Given I don't use one much,
what's the pick of the cheapies - more like 100 quid than 300?

Funny you should say that my B&D went down 2months ago so I needed a quick
newbie, as I was out near a argos store I came across this.

http://tinyurl.com/az9uq
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
My old B&D has seized. It's the ball race. And it appears to be
turning in the housing. I will repair it if the parts aren't too
dear, but in the meantime need another. Given I don't use one much,
what's the pick of the cheapies - more like 100 quid than 300?

Funny you should say that my B&D went down 2months ago so I needed a
quick newbie, as I was out near a argos store I came across this.

http://tinyurl.com/az9uq

Erm! forget that for some reason I have "planers on the bonce", most odd.
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

On Tue, 20 Dec 2005 12:25:44 GMT, "The3rd Earl Of Derby"
wrote:

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
My old B&D has seized. It's the ball race. And it appears to be
turning in the housing. I will repair it if the parts aren't too
dear, but in the meantime need another. Given I don't use one much,
what's the pick of the cheapies - more like 100 quid than 300?

Funny you should say that my B&D went down 2months ago so I needed a quick
newbie, as I was out near a argos store I came across this.

http://tinyurl.com/az9uq


Hopefully you left it there.

It's a bit awkward to do routing with a power planer.


--

..andy

Andy Hall wrote:
On Tue, 20 Dec 2005 12:25:44 GMT, "The3rd Earl Of Derby"
wrote:

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
My old B&D has seized. It's the ball race. And it appears to be
turning in the housing. I will repair it if the parts aren't too
dear, but in the meantime need another. Given I don't use one much,
what's the pick of the cheapies - more like 100 quid than 300?

Funny you should say that my B&D went down 2months ago so I needed a
quick newbie, as I was out near a argos store I came across this.

http://tinyurl.com/az9uq


Hopefully you left it there.

It's a bit awkward to do routing with a power planer.

Leave me alone I'm having a bad day. :-(
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

"John Rumm" wrote in message
...
Doctor Drivel wrote:

PP Pro @ £49 (3 year guarantee). 1/2" so can do kitchen worktops and

http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav/nav.jsp?action=detail&fh_secondid=7940070&fh_searc h=router&fh_eds=%c3%9f&fh_refview=search&ts=113507 5231797

What is the speed range supported on this?

I can't remember. The local B&Q had one on show and all the details were
there. It is about the best value for money in a router and if you only cut
2 or three worktops makes its money back.

Doctor Drivel wrote:
"John Rumm" wrote in message
...
Doctor Drivel wrote:

PP Pro @ £49 (3 year guarantee). 1/2" so can do kitchen worktops
and


http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav/na...econdid=794007
0&fh_search=router&fh_eds=%c3%9f&fh_refview=search &ts=1135075231797

What is the speed range supported on this?

I can't remember. The local B&Q had one on show and all the details
were there. It is about the best value for money in a router and if
you only cut 2 or three worktops makes its money back.

PP,Powerdevil,Nu-Tool and JCB are all made in the same factory in
Taiwan...now which is the best value for money?

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

On Tue, 20 Dec 2005 13:43:55 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:


"John Rumm" wrote in message
...
Doctor Drivel wrote:

PP Pro @ £49 (3 year guarantee). 1/2" so can do kitchen worktops and

http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav/nav.jsp?action=detail&fh_secondid=7940070&fh_searc h=router&fh_eds=%c3%9f&fh_refview=search&ts=113507 5231797

What is the speed range supported on this?

I can't remember. The local B&Q had one on show and all the details were
there. It is about the best value for money in a router and if you only cut
2 or three worktops makes its money back.


For cutting worktops, it would be more cost effective to rent a proper
one.

--

..andy

"The3rd Earl Of Derby" wrote in message
. uk...
Doctor Drivel wrote:
"John Rumm" wrote in message
...
Doctor Drivel wrote:

PP Pro @ £49 (3 year guarantee). 1/2" so can do kitchen worktops
and


http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav/na...econdid=794007
0&fh_search=router&fh_eds=%c3%9f&fh_refview=search &ts=1135075231797

What is the speed range supported on this?

I can't remember. The local B&Q had one on show and all the details
were there. It is about the best value for money in a router and if
you only cut 2 or three worktops makes its money back.

PP,Powerdevil,Nu-Tool and JCB are all made in the same factory in
Taiwan...now which is the best value for money?

The one with the features, guarantee and best price. Can't you figure tat
out?

On Tue, 20 Dec 2005 14:27:20 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:


"The3rd Earl Of Derby" wrote in message
.uk...
Doctor Drivel wrote:
"John Rumm" wrote in message
...
Doctor Drivel wrote:

PP Pro @ £49 (3 year guarantee). 1/2" so can do kitchen worktops
and


http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav/na...econdid=794007
0&fh_search=router&fh_eds=%c3%9f&fh_refview=search &ts=1135075231797

What is the speed range supported on this?

I can't remember. The local B&Q had one on show and all the details
were there. It is about the best value for money in a router and if
you only cut 2 or three worktops makes its money back.

PP,Powerdevil,Nu-Tool and JCB are all made in the same factory in
Taiwan...now which is the best value for money?

The one with the features, guarantee and best price. Can't you figure tat
out?

No need. It's all tat.....



--

..andy

In article ,
Andy Hall wrote:
On Tue, 20 Dec 2005 13:43:55 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:


"John Rumm" wrote in message
...
Doctor Drivel wrote:

PP Pro @ £49 (3 year guarantee). 1/2" so can do kitchen worktops and

http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav/nav.jsp?action=detail&fh_secondid=7940070&fh_searc h=router&fh_eds=%c3%9f&fh_refview=search&ts=113507 5231797

What is the speed range supported on this?

I can't remember. The local B&Q had one on show and all the details
were there. It is about the best value for money in a router and if
you only cut 2 or three worktops makes its money back.


For cutting worktops, it would be more cost effective to rent a proper
one.

If dribble recommends PP Pro it would seem the one to avoid. And he seems
to think cutting kitchen worktops is the thing you do with a router since
he's mentioned it before.

I've had a look round the local tool stores and sheds.

The PP Pro one has the usual kit full of probably doubtful accessories -
after all more must be better.

I'm tempted by the T-tech (Trend) R127 at 100 quid. Soft start and
vari-speed - 15,000 - 27,000. 2050 watts input. It's heavy, but maybe no
bad thing for the sort of use I'll have for it. And it doesn't come with
loads of bits. Says suitable for hobby or trade use, but not continuous
pro work. Appears to be a B&Q special.

--
*"I am " is reportedly the shortest sentence in the English language. *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" through an haze of senile
flatulence wrote in message ...
In article ,
Andy Hall aka Matt wrote:

If

Please do not buy any router, as you will hurt yourself. The dribble from
your cardigan will go into the motor and make sparks.

On Tue, 20 Dec 2005 14:44:07 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:


If dribble recommends PP Pro it would seem the one to avoid. And he seems
to think cutting kitchen worktops is the thing you do with a router since
he's mentioned it before.

I've had a look round the local tool stores and sheds.

The PP Pro one has the usual kit full of probably doubtful accessories -
after all more must be better.

I'm tempted by the T-tech (Trend) R127 at 100 quid. Soft start and
vari-speed - 15,000 - 27,000. 2050 watts input. It's heavy, but maybe no
bad thing for the sort of use I'll have for it. And it doesn't come with
loads of bits. Says suitable for hobby or trade use, but not continuous
pro work. Appears to be a B&Q special.

Certainly I wouldn't be influenced by the sets of bits that typically
come as kits. It's better to buy individual bits from CMT, Freud or
Trend as needed.

Are you sure this one is a Trend product?

Collets for it are mentioned on their web site, but the types are for
Kinzo, PPPower, NuTool,....

15000rpm minimum is too fast for larger cutters. 60mm diameter is
about the limit. For anything larger than this, it's necessary to go
down to around 10000rpm and is why 12.7mm routers generally go down to
this speed or less. You wouldn't use cutters of this size with the
router handheld, and may not care about this limitation of course.

12.7mm routers are generally heavy. Around 5-6kg is typical, with
the DW just over 5kg, Makita around 6kg and Ryobi 6.5kg.

However, for their intended purposes, this is not a problem within
reason.

I have the DW 12.7mm one, Trend 6.35mm one and a small DW laminate
trimmer type. I use each in different circumstances.

If I were going for one only for general purpose work, I'd pick the
12.7mm one and accept that fine work is not going to be easy.

--

..andy

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
My old B&D has seized. It's the ball race. And it appears to be
turning in the housing. I will repair it if the parts aren't too
dear, but in the meantime need another. Given I don't use one much,
what's the pick of the cheapies - more like 100 quid than 300?

http://tinyurl.com/e3fzb
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
My old B&D has seized. It's the ball race. And it appears to be
turning in the housing. I will repair it if the parts aren't too
dear, but in the meantime need another. Given I don't use one much,
what's the pick of the cheapies - more like 100 quid than 300?

For the B&D spares
http://www.toolshopdirect.co.uk/part...Indoor/Routers

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

Doctor Drivel wrote:

Homebase have a PB Excel on offer at present (bright blue colour)
for less than £20!! Was being sold around £60.

1/2"?

No only 1/4", but soft start, variable speed 11,000 - 28,000 rpm, 55mm
plunge, 1100 watt. Good plunge action, nice to use.

Good buy as a spare at that money - if they have any left.

Dave

On Tue, 20 Dec 2005 13:53:54 GMT, "The3rd Earl Of Derby"
wrote:

PP,Powerdevil,Nu-Tool and JCB are all made in the same factory in
Taiwan...now which is the best value for money?

Who cares? They're all wobbly crap, designed to last 5 minutes in the
hands of fools like Drivel who wouldn't know a decent router from a
corkscrew.

On Tue, 20 Dec 2005 11:40:45 +0000, Andy Hall wrote:

If you are looking for a viable 12.7mm model then the Freud FT2000
(Screwfix at £168) is a good buy.

The Freud has got to be one of the best deals around for a decent
router.

But it's still a bit of a heavy old clunker. If you're not planning to
use it in a table, then something lighter and handier might be more
suitable. It also has a huge hole in the baseplate - one of the first
jobs is to make a new clear Perspex baseplate up, with a smaller
aperture.

In article ,
The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
For the B&D spares
http://www.toolshopdirect.co.uk/part...Indoor/Routers

Thanks for that. Ordered the bearing and housing for under 20 quid.

--
*How many roads must a man travel down before he admits he is lost?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
Andy Hall wrote:
Certainly I wouldn't be influenced by the sets of bits that typically
come as kits. It's better to buy individual bits from CMT, Freud or
Trend as needed.

Are you sure this one is a Trend product?

Says made by Trend Machinery and Cutting Tools Ltd. But has a made for B&Q
sticker on the box.

--
*I didn't fight my way to the top of the food chain to be a vegetarian.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Tue, 20 Dec 2005 18:33:39 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
Andy Hall wrote:
Certainly I wouldn't be influenced by the sets of bits that typically
come as kits. It's better to buy individual bits from CMT, Freud or
Trend as needed.

Are you sure this one is a Trend product?

Says made by Trend Machinery and Cutting Tools Ltd. But has a made for B&Q
sticker on the box.


Hmm.. curious. I didn't think that they were in the private label
business and can't find any other references to this machine other
than the collets on the Trend site.


--

..andy

On Tue, 20 Dec 2005 18:28:07 +0000, Andy Dingley
wrote:

On Tue, 20 Dec 2005 11:40:45 +0000, Andy Hall wrote:

If you are looking for a viable 12.7mm model then the Freud FT2000
(Screwfix at £168) is a good buy.

The Freud has got to be one of the best deals around for a decent
router.

But it's still a bit of a heavy old clunker. If you're not planning to
use it in a table, then something lighter and handier might be more
suitable. It also has a huge hole in the baseplate - one of the first
jobs is to make a new clear Perspex baseplate up, with a smaller
aperture.

As far as I could find, there are not substantially lighter ones
around. Freud is 5.6kg

The DW625, T9, Elu,.... is 5.1kg
The Bosch GOF 2000 is 6kg
The Bosch GOF 1300 is 4.8kg (but is a 1300W model - bit low)
The Hitachi M12SA is 5.2kg
The Makita 3612 is 6kg
The Metabo OFE1812 is 5.1kg
The Festool OF2000 is 5.1kg
The Mafell LO65 is 5.5kg

I've used a Makita 3612 a couple of times and can't say that I noticed
it to be difficult in use in comparison with the DW625 (even though a
kg more). Admittedly I didn't do a side by side trial.


--

..andy

On Tue, 20 Dec 2005 20:27:32 +0000, Andy Hall wrote:

As far as I could find, there are not substantially lighter ones
around. Freud is 5.6kg

There are plenty of smaller and lighter routers around. Now admittedly
they're of much less power, but how often do you need a really powerful
router when it's not to swing a large cutter that needs to be used in a
table anyway? Most of the time when I'm using a handheld router, I use
one of my 1/4" routers, just for the smaller footprint and lighter
weight. About the only handheld task that really _needs_ the rigiditiy
of the Freud is trimming kitchen counters - a task which a wee crappy
job like a DrivelPro is of course entirely inadequate for.

Doctor Drivel wrote:

What is the speed range supported on this?


I can't remember. The local B&Q had one on show and all the details

The last time I looked at a PPro 1/2" router its minimum speed was
something in the order of 15k rpm. (not saying this has the same
problem, but since you seem to be the authority on all things B&Q I
thought you might know)

were there. It is about the best value for money in a router and if you
only cut 2 or three worktops makes its money back.

Hence my question about what Dave wanted to do with it. Unless you know
that it is impossible to say if it represents good value for money or
not. To be good vlaue for money it must first be fit for purpose.

(Say for example he wanted to profile the edges of some cabinet doors
using a panel raising cutter set, a 15k rpm router would be of no value
whatsoever since it would be way above the safe maximum speed for such a
large diameter cutter).


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

What size machine are you looking for? (i.e. 1/4" or 1/2").


The B&D was 1/4 and 1/2 - so I'd like the same since I have a selection of
bits.

So that is a 1/2" router with a reduction then usually. i.e. a fairly
big machine.

What sort of work do you normally do with it? Do you need to mount it
in a table?


I only use it hand held at the moment - although a table might be a future
option.

The bigger ones are at their best in tables. Used freehand they are ok
for some jobs, but a right pig to handle for others.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Tue, 20 Dec 2005 23:50:16 +0000, Andy Dingley
wrote:

On Tue, 20 Dec 2005 20:27:32 +0000, Andy Hall wrote:

As far as I could find, there are not substantially lighter ones
around. Freud is 5.6kg

There are plenty of smaller and lighter routers around. Now admittedly
they're of much less power, but how often do you need a really powerful
router when it's not to swing a large cutter that needs to be used in a
table anyway? Most of the time when I'm using a handheld router, I use
one of my 1/4" routers, just for the smaller footprint and lighter
weight.

Yes, I agree. However, we had already started down the track of
talking about 12.7mm routers (or at least I had), and I was thinking
that if one had to pick between that and a smaller one (because of
only buying one) then it probably ought to be a 12.7mm machine.

About the only handheld task that really _needs_ the rigiditiy
of the Freud is trimming kitchen counters - a task which a wee crappy
job like a DrivelPro is of course entirely inadequate for.


Quite.

For some of the larger moulding bits (not in panel raising size
obviously) I tend to prefer the larger router as well, and I have a
larger collection of 12.7mm bits than 6.35mm.

The routers only get used hand held these days as I use a special
spindle in the spindle moulder which takes router cutters and has both
of these sizes in collets. I can also tilt the spindle. As a result,
I have one of the Trend router tables (which gave good service for
what it is) no longer used.

--

..andy

In article ,
Andy Hall wrote:
Says made by Trend Machinery and Cutting Tools Ltd. But has a made for
B&Q sticker on the box.


Hmm.. curious. I didn't think that they were in the private label
business and can't find any other references to this machine other
than the collets on the Trend site.

Since Trend seems to be a reasonable make I've bought it. Worked a treat
for the job I'm doing. I've ordered up the spares for the B&D so I'll have
a light(er) weight one as well. I must say though on first use the weight
isn't a problem and may just help to keep things steady.

--
*Why isn't 11 pronounced onety one? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Wed, 21 Dec 2005 00:30:19 +0000, Andy Hall wrote:

The routers only get used hand held these days as I use a special
spindle in the spindle moulder which takes router cutters

I'd like a spindle moulder (old Wadkin) but don't have space or budget.
I did consider a shaper instead, but they all seemed to run far too slow
for the sort of "large router" tooling that I'm usually using. If I
need anything really big I do it on a commercial neighbour's spindle, my
own knives if it's an oddball moulding.

On Tue, 20 Dec 2005 23:52:28 +0000, John Rumm
wrote:

(Say for example he wanted to profile the edges of some cabinet doors
using a panel raising cutter set, a 15k rpm router would be of no value
whatsoever since it would be way above the safe maximum speed for such a
large diameter cutter).

If he's anywhere near that size of cutter then it's the Freud 2000
router mounted in a table, every time.

Andy Dingley wrote:

If he's anywhere near that size of cutter then it's the Freud 2000
router mounted in a table, every time.

Agreed, in fact I hardly ever take my Freud out of the table!

(I only recall using once freehand in recent times - and only then
because it made it easier to have two routers to hand when making treads
and risers for a staircase - one to put the bullnose on the leading edge
of the tread, and the other to add the rebate for the riser to the
underside).

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Wed, 21 Dec 2005 01:21:37 +0000, Andy Dingley
wrote:

On Wed, 21 Dec 2005 00:30:19 +0000, Andy Hall wrote:

The routers only get used hand held these days as I use a special
spindle in the spindle moulder which takes router cutters

I'd like a spindle moulder (old Wadkin) but don't have space or budget.

Always a challenge....

I would have thought that there would be a ready supply of older
spindle moulders that don't meet current braking and other safety
requirements for industrial use.

I wouldn't have considered one as a stand-alone machine, but as part
of the combination machine, it's no extra space. There is always the
issue of conversion back and forth, but on mine the spindle moulder
hood can be rapidly removed and replaced while retaining settings and
the spindle moulder block dropped below table height so that the saw
can be used. Even so, a bit of planning of workflow usually makes
the number of changes fairly small.


I did consider a shaper instead, but they all seemed to run far too slow
for the sort of "large router" tooling that I'm usually using.

What do you mean by a shaper in this context? A larger machine than a
router in a table that uses router tooling? If so, it's surprising
that they don't run fast enough.

I was initially concerned with the speed issue on mine, but it turns
out that the special spindle has a smaller pulley than the normal 30mm
tooling one and with the belt on the largest step of the motor pulley
plus the speed control cranked right up, I can get to 20,000 rpm or
so. In practice, this seems to be adequate even for smallest cutters
as long as I watch the feed rate.

The Americans use the word to describe what we call a spindle moulder.
In the machine context it becomes confusing. They refer to what we
call a planer as a jointer (i.e. planing flat and square on the top of
the machine); and what we call a thicknesser as a planer.



If I
need anything really big I do it on a commercial neighbour's spindle, my
own knives if it's an oddball moulding.


Always useful to have....

--

..andy

In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
The B&D was 1/4 and 1/2 - so I'd like the same since I have a
selection of bits.

So that is a 1/2" router with a reduction then usually. i.e. a fairly
big machine.

Not really - small compared to most I've looked at yesterday. It's a KW
800 - more like the size of the 1/4" ones made today.

What sort of work do you normally do with it? Do you need to mount it
in a table?


I only use it hand held at the moment - although a table might be a
future option.

The bigger ones are at their best in tables. Used freehand they are ok
for some jobs, but a right pig to handle for others.

OK. It's not a tool I'd describe myself as an expert with. ;-)

--
*Despite the cost of living, have you noticed how it remains so popular?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

Not really - small compared to most I've looked at yesterday. It's a KW
800 - more like the size of the 1/4" ones made today.

I find my T5 (similar sort of power but 1/4" collet) is the one I use
for pretty much all handheld stuff - it is the right size and feel - it
is also simpler to use on narrower stock without needing to add extra
battens etc to balance the weight of the router. Not sure how much use a
"big" router would be with only 800W though - it may preclude doing many
of the things that you would traditionally choose a 1/2" router for.

Remember also that many 1/4" units will also take an 8mm collet which
opens up the range of larger cutters that can be used. The only real
downside is less cutting capacity per pass.

Hence if the choice is between a good quality 1/4" machine or moderate
quality low power 1/2" unit, I would probably go with the good quality
smaller one and get the extra accuracy and rigidity.


--
Cheers,

John.

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