Everyone was so helpful yesterday with my question about jig saws -
thanks! I thought I'd ask again about help with routers. With Lowe's
20% off sale, I wonder if I might pick one up, but not really knowing
all the ways I will (and can, honestly) use it, I wonder if I can get
by for now with a moderately priced one. When I know better what I
want and need, then I would go for the pricier models. If this is a
good plan, what should I look for in a mid-level router?
Thanks for any helpful feedback!
Squanklin

The character & mechanics of the DW 618 at the
http://www.patwarner.com/dw618pk.html should provide some general
guidelines.

I wonder if I can get by for now with a moderately priced one.

I got over buying moderately priced 'starters' years ago when I realized I
was building two collections of tools. Good stuff that I used daily because
it was reliable and easy to use, and stuff that sat on the back of the shelf
because I didn't want to screw with them any more. The bad part was I paid
a fair amount of money for the lesser quality stuff.

If you are not sure what you are going to do with a router, it might be best
to wait. Otherwise take a look at the middle-range Bosch, Porter Cable,
Deltas, etc. From my experience of a year ago (helping my daughter select a
router for her husband) low end routers can cause a world of frustration. I
won't mention brand names but one of them starts with "R" - worst depth lock
I had ever seen.

If you decide to buy, don't overlook the cost of accessories you will need
right away, least of all bits. Contrary to above, this is an area where you
do not need to start with top-of-line hardware. Bits are cheaper in sets
and sets of 10 - 20 decent bits will run $60 - $100, on sale. These are not
the worlds finest, but will provide a lot of use and cut variety when you
get you machine.

On 17 Dec 2004 05:30:01 -0800, "Squanklin"
wrote:

I wonder if I can get
by for now with a moderately priced one.

Yes. I don't much like this idea, but it works for routers.

"Serious" routers are 1/2" collet and mainly used in tables. A
"moderately priced" 1/4" router is very cheap these days, and it will
still be useful for the lightweight non-table work even after/if
you've bought a bigger one.

--
Smert' spamionam

On 17 Dec 2004 05:30:01 -0800, "Squanklin"
wrote:

Everyone was so helpful yesterday with my question about jig saws -
thanks! I thought I'd ask again about help with routers. With Lowe's
20% off sale, I wonder if I might pick one up, but not really knowing
all the ways I will (and can, honestly) use it, I wonder if I can get
by for now with a moderately priced one. When I know better what I
want and need, then I would go for the pricier models. If this is a
good plan, what should I look for in a mid-level router?

I have an article on my website regarding your first/next router
purchase.

Home Depot is currently carrying the Porter-Cable 690 for $100. This
is a straight handle, 1½ (or so) hp router that will acommodate 85% of
your routing needs for a long, long time. Even after you eventually
get a bigger router and a plunger (and you will) the 690 will still be
the one you turn to for a number of jobs. It can be seen in
professional shops all over the places. You will not wear it out.

Despite all the developments in router technology for the last 40
years, the self ejecting collet on the 690 is still the best (comes
with both ¼" and ½"), And it already has the two wrench upgrade.

You may be able to get Lowes to price match, as the HD price is not a
closeout. I bought two of them a month apart.

- -
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

"Squanklin" wrote in news:1103290200.928896.305170
@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com:

If this is a
good plan, what should I look for in a mid-level router?

Soft-start. If you're not used to using a router, the jerk when a
router without soft-start spins up is very disconcerting (and the
router's likely to go where you didn't intend it). This is the
number one feature I think you should look for.

Beyond that, a plunge router is more versatile than a non-plunge
one, but a non-plunge router can be easier to control...many people
like to spend the extra for a dual-base model.

Whatever router bits you get, get in 1/2" shank sizes.

You might consider using your new router to build a router table,
which is about the only useful accessory you need with a router.
A mid-power router will work in the table for starters, if you
find yourself using it a lot you can get a dedicated 3hp monster
later.

I've never found a use for the assorted "accessories" that come
with some routers...a straight plank clamped to the work as a
fence works better than an "edge guide", etc.

John

On Fri, 17 Dec 2004 08:12:09 -0600, "RonB" wrote:

I wonder if I can get by for now with a moderately priced one.

I got over buying moderately priced 'starters' years ago when I realized I
was building two collections of tools. Good stuff that I used daily because
it was reliable and easy to use, and stuff that sat on the back of the shelf
because I didn't want to screw with them any more. The bad part was I paid
a fair amount of money for the lesser quality stuff.

If you are not sure what you are going to do with a router, it might be best
to wait. Otherwise take a look at the middle-range Bosch, Porter Cable,
Deltas, etc. From my experience of a year ago (helping my daughter select a
router for her husband) low end routers can cause a world of frustration. I
won't mention brand names but one of them starts with "R" - worst depth lock
I had ever seen.

If you decide to buy, don't overlook the cost of accessories you will need
right away, least of all bits. Contrary to above, this is an area where you
do not need to start with top-of-line hardware. Bits are cheaper in sets
and sets of 10 - 20 decent bits will run $60 - $100, on sale. These are not
the worlds finest, but will provide a lot of use and cut variety when you
get you machine.

Depends on your age and experience..
I but a lot of mid-range tools, and try to make my learning mistakes
with them..
then, I give them to the kids as I replace them with the type and
brand that I'll keep..

My first router was a great example of how to learn.. someone loaned
my an old router that needed cleaning and brushes.. after learning on
that, I really appreciated my new one..
I also had a pretty good idea of how to use it and what NOT to use it
for..

Look at the Porter Cable combo kits....

http://www.porter-cable.com/index.asp?e=547&p=4856

or the classic:

http://www.porter-cable.com/index.asp?e=547&p=2816

With a 20% off sale, you can NOT go wrong. These
routers will be with your family for the estate sale.


Squanklin wrote:

Everyone was so helpful yesterday with my question about jig saws -
thanks! I thought I'd ask again about help with routers. With Lowe's
20% off sale, I wonder if I might pick one up, but not really knowing
all the ways I will (and can, honestly) use it, I wonder if I can get
by for now with a moderately priced one. When I know better what I
want and need, then I would go for the pricier models. If this is a
good plan, what should I look for in a mid-level router?
Thanks for any helpful feedback!
Squanklin

I've read some good things about the new Hitachi m12vc, Fixed base,
soft start, varible speed, 2 1/4 hp router.
Amazon has it for $103. The local Lowe's has the PC 690 for $80 and
the M12vc for $112.

Renowood

At my local SAM's Clu, the Porter Cable 690 series combo kit (with fixed
base & plunge base) is priced out at $165 (with case). Is that "high
priced"? (To me, it's a steal of a deal!)

Also, those newish Craftsman Professional routers (with the red wooden
handles) are rebranded Bosch routers. There are some danged good sales
going on just about every week (and especially weekends) at Sears.

Either the PC at Sams's Club or the rebranded Bosch at Sears are great buys
on top shelf machines.

--
-- Steve
www.ApacheTrail.com/ww/



"Squanklin" wrote in message
oups.com...
Everyone was so helpful yesterday with my question about jig saws -
thanks! I thought I'd ask again about help with routers. With Lowe's
20% off sale, I wonder if I might pick one up, but not really knowing
all the ways I will (and can, honestly) use it, I wonder if I can get
by for now with a moderately priced one. When I know better what I
want and need, then I would go for the pricier models. If this is a
good plan, what should I look for in a mid-level router?
Thanks for any helpful feedback!
Squanklin

On 17 Dec 2004 05:30:01 -0800, "Squanklin"
wrote:

Everyone was so helpful yesterday with my question about jig saws -
thanks! I thought I'd ask again about help with routers. With Lowe's
20% off sale, I wonder if I might pick one up, but not really knowing
all the ways I will (and can, honestly) use it, I wonder if I can get
by for now with a moderately priced one. When I know better what I
want and need, then I would go for the pricier models. If this is a
good plan, what should I look for in a mid-level router?
Thanks for any helpful feedback!
Squanklin

If you are just starting out consider a combo kit such as Porter Cable
693LRPK. The kit contains a motor and two bases (one fixed and one
plunge). You can buy a separate "D" handle for this model if you
wish. This router (kit) is probably better for the occasional user
and will run you about $200 retail. There are smaller (trim) routers
and heavy-duty specialty routers you may want to add to your
collection later. Save some money to buy a few Whiteside 1/2" shank
router bits.

On 17 Dec 2004 05:30:01 -0800, "Squanklin"
wrote:

Everyone was so helpful yesterday with my question about jig saws -
thanks! I thought I'd ask again about help with routers. With Lowe's
20% off sale, I wonder if I might pick one up, but not really knowing
all the ways I will (and can, honestly) use it, I wonder if I can get
by for now with a moderately priced one. When I know better what I
want and need, then I would go for the pricier models. If this is a
good plan, what should I look for in a mid-level router?
Thanks for any helpful feedback!
Squanklin


you can get a porter cable 690 single speed router right now for $99.
a great deal. a great router.

On Fri, 17 Dec 2004 10:40:34 -0700, "Steve"
wrote:

At my local SAM's Clu, the Porter Cable 690 series combo kit (with fixed
base & plunge base) is priced out at $165 (with case). Is that "high
priced"? (To me, it's a steal of a deal!)

Also, those newish Craftsman Professional routers (with the red wooden
handles) are rebranded Bosch routers.


I seem to recall searz had them spec'd down though. cheaper
components.



There are some danged good sales
going on just about every week (and especially weekends) at Sears.

Either the PC at Sams's Club or the rebranded Bosch at Sears are great buys
on top shelf machines.

On 17 Dec 2004 05:30:01 -0800, "Squanklin"
calmly ranted:

Everyone was so helpful yesterday with my question about jig saws -
thanks! I thought I'd ask again about help with routers. With Lowe's
20% off sale, I wonder if I might pick one up, but not really knowing
all the ways I will (and can, honestly) use it, I wonder if I can get
by for now with a moderately priced one. When I know better what I
want and need, then I would go for the pricier models. If this is a
good plan, what should I look for in a mid-level router?
Thanks for any helpful feedback!
Squanklin

Try one of the super-cheap 2hp (right) imports found on Ebay. If
nothing else, you can always get your $25 back by reselling it
there or locally.


Need a hammer drill? Medium-duty 1/2" (metric inches, evidently)
variable speed (0-2800rpm) with masonry bits, metal bits, grinder
bits, extra side handle, depth gauge, + a molded case sound good?
Just $25 for the 21-piece set, delivered to your door, and I have 2
sets left. They're cheap little POSs but I was amazed at how well
they work. The motor is tough: it supported my 200lbs for awhile
when I drilled a drain hole in the sidewalk. Holes in cinder-block
walls are quick with these things.


-----------------------------------------------------------
-- This post conscientiously crafted from 100% Recycled Pixels --
http://diversify.com Websites: PHP Programming, MySQL databases
================================================== ================

On Fri, 17 Dec 2004 12:28:41 -0700, s wrote:

you can get a porter cable 690 single speed router right now for $99.
a great deal. a great router.

That really is a sweet deal on a fine tool.

I paid $89 for a remanufactured single speed Bosch 1617 about a year
ago.

Barry

From what I have read and been told (and even seen first hand) the
Craftsman/Bosch is a it of an over-spec'ed upgrade over the Bosch-randed
version.

--
Enjoy life and *do* well by it
-- it might well be the only chance you get :-)

Steve,
http://www.ApacheTrail.com/ww/

wrote in message
...
On Fri, 17 Dec 2004 10:40:34 -0700, "Steve"
wrote:

At my local SAM's Clu, the Porter Cable 690 series combo kit (with fixed
base & plunge base) is priced out at $165 (with case). Is that "high
priced"? (To me, it's a steal of a deal!)

Also, those newish Craftsman Professional routers (with the red wooden
handles) are rebranded Bosch routers.


I seem to recall searz had them spec'd down though. cheaper
components.



There are some danged good sales
going on just about every week (and especially weekends) at Sears.

Either the PC at Sams's Club or the rebranded Bosch at Sears are great
buys
on top shelf machines.

RonB wrote:

to wait. Otherwise take a look at the middle-range Bosch, Porter Cable,

Yes. Stay away from Ryobi or Crapsman. I'm on record as being one of those
people who isn't part of the Crapsman Defamation Society, but Crapsman
routahs, with their patented Depth Randomizer, and Carbide Ejection System
are best left off your shopping list. I think Ryobi actually makes those.

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
http://rosegarden.sourceforge.net/tutorial/

Hi Squanklin,

I bought the lower priced router last spring. Sure, it's got me
through everything I have done. But I am left in a situation where I
cannot get accessories for it. If you buy a good brand you will
find you will save money in the long run, cause you will be able to
purchase accessories. Trust me, if you don't own a router table,
you'll be looking at the accessories.

To put it simply, with a moderately priced PC or whatever brand
router, you'll be farther ahead in the long run.

1/4" or 1/2" - easy go for a router that can handle 1/2" bits. There
more stable. I'm stuck with 1/4" for the moment. "My second
mistake".

As for bits. A TV host suggested to his viewers. Buy a basic set,
then just replace the one's you use with higher quality bits. This
way you have some flexibility with the basic set to get you started,
and buy higher quality for the ones you really need and use.

From experience I've only used 3 or 4 bits on a regular basis. The
straight cutting bits, a flush trim bit. A chamfering bit, and a
rabetting bit. The fancy bits are nice, but you will end up using
the ones above more often.

Router features you want;

A good brand name.
Around 2HP and up.
Soft Start feature.
Variable Speed.
Precision depth control.
1/4" and 1/2" collets
I like the plunge base.
Some method of dust control.

Pat



On 17 Dec 2004 05:30:01 -0800, "Squanklin"
wrote:

Everyone was so helpful yesterday with my question about jig saws -
thanks! I thought I'd ask again about help with routers. With Lowe's
20% off sale, I wonder if I might pick one up, but not really knowing
all the ways I will (and can, honestly) use it, I wonder if I can get
by for now with a moderately priced one. When I know better what I
want and need, then I would go for the pricier models. If this is a
good plan, what should I look for in a mid-level router?
Thanks for any helpful feedback!
Squanklin

"Squanklin" wrote in news:1103290200.928896.305170
@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com:

Everyone was so helpful yesterday with my question about jig saws -
thanks! I thought I'd ask again about help with routers. With Lowe's
20% off sale, I wonder if I might pick one up, but not really knowing
all the ways I will (and can, honestly) use it, I wonder if I can get
by for now with a moderately priced one. When I know better what I
want and need, then I would go for the pricier models. If this is a
good plan, what should I look for in a mid-level router?
Thanks for any helpful feedback!
Squanklin


Check out the Porter Cable 693PK (two base combo kit). Amazon.com has
it now for $175 including shipping after discounts.

I agree with a couple of other posters ... don't buy Ryobi. And avoid
the Hickory brand router bits at the Borg (DAMHIKT).

I currently have a Bosch 1617EVS combo ... but if I had to do it again
I'd probably do a Porter Cable. I use mostly Amana and Whiteside bits
(1/2" shank), with which I'm pleased.

Cheers,
Nate

Whoever makes them they're made to Sears specs.

On Fri, 17 Dec 2004 19:49:17 -0500, Silvan
wrote:

RonB wrote:

to wait. Otherwise take a look at the middle-range Bosch, Porter Cable,

Yes. Stay away from Ryobi or Crapsman. I'm on record as being one of those
people who isn't part of the Crapsman Defamation Society, but Crapsman
routahs, with their patented Depth Randomizer, and Carbide Ejection System
are best left off your shopping list. I think Ryobi actually makes those.

I have been in the Hobby now for close to 40 years
and I have six routers in the shop... 4 of them are
permantely mounted in Router tables... 2 regular tables,
one Horizontal table, and one overhead pin router table
the last 2 are used for hand use....one is a plunge because that
feature is sometimes needed...the other has the standard base
and it honestly gets the most free hand use....

You listed features to look for below...

Router features you want;

A good brand name. ..........
Ok I will agree with you on that
Around 2HP and up.
None of mine even have 2 Hp Never
had a problem with lack of power
Soft Start feature.
Again None of mine have this and maybe
I do not know what I am missing..
Variable Speed.
Again none of mine have it.

Precision depth control.
"Presision" is hard to define...BUT I agree

1/4" and 1/2" collets
Only if you have a pile of old 1/4 in bits
on hand... I do but rarely use them
I like the plunge base.
IF I had only one router I agree...
Some method of dust control.
Lol.. the floor does a great job in my
of "collecting" dust in my shop


Just my opinion....
Bob Griffiths

Bob makes good point here, but let me clarify a tad.

Some day you may end up with multiple routers. What's good in one situation
is bad in another. For the most part extra power comes with extra weight.
You really don't want a 3HP monster for freehand work, but you do want a 3HP
monster mounted in your table to raise (or is that raze?:-)) panels.

Jamming every feature into your first router is not necessarily the way to
go. Ultimately multiple purpose routers are the best place to end up.

Variable speed IMHO is a necessity for the 3HP monster but becomes less of
an issue with smaller machines.

FWIW freehand routing kind of scares me. I have a monster mounted in a table
that does 75% of my routing, 10% with a big laminate trimmer/small router
for freehand work.

Get this: The remaining 15% is done with hand planes, table saw and/or
sanding (a block plane does a fine job of putting on a small chamfer).

-Steve





"Bob G." wrote in message
...

I have been in the Hobby now for close to 40 years
and I have six routers in the shop... 4 of them are
permantely mounted in Router tables... 2 regular tables,
one Horizontal table, and one overhead pin router table
the last 2 are used for hand use....one is a plunge because that
feature is sometimes needed...the other has the standard base
and it honestly gets the most free hand use....

You listed features to look for below...

Router features you want;

A good brand name. ..........
Ok I will agree with you on that
Around 2HP and up.
None of mine even have 2 Hp Never
had a problem with lack of power
Soft Start feature.
Again None of mine have this and maybe
I do not know what I am missing..
Variable Speed.
Again none of mine have it.

Precision depth control.
"Presision" is hard to define...BUT I agree

1/4" and 1/2" collets
Only if you have a pile of old 1/4 in bits
on hand... I do but rarely use them
I like the plunge base.
IF I had only one router I agree...
Some method of dust control.
Lol.. the floor does a great job in my
of "collecting" dust in my shop


Just my opinion....
Bob Griffiths

Hi Steve,

I agree with the last part 100%. However keep in mind, I was
responding to another persons questions about routers. The person
was looking for a good starting point and most of the features I
mention are pretty standard at the mid range level. In most cases,
it's less than $50 difference between the cheapy and an entry level
router that will serve him well. If he's only going to buy one
router, then he's probably better off getting some of those features
now and spending the extra few dollars. Rather than realizing down
the road that he's made a mistake buying the cheapy and really should
have bought a router that is more versatile.

Merry Christmas

Pat





On Sat, 18 Dec 2004 11:24:52 -0500, "C & S"
wrote:

Bob makes good point here, but let me clarify a tad.

Some day you may end up with multiple routers. What's good in one situation
is bad in another. For the most part extra power comes with extra weight.
You really don't want a 3HP monster for freehand work, but you do want a 3HP
monster mounted in your table to raise (or is that raze?:-)) panels.

Jamming every feature into your first router is not necessarily the way to
go. Ultimately multiple purpose routers are the best place to end up.

Variable speed IMHO is a necessity for the 3HP monster but becomes less of
an issue with smaller machines.

FWIW freehand routing kind of scares me. I have a monster mounted in a table
that does 75% of my routing, 10% with a big laminate trimmer/small router
for freehand work.

Get this: The remaining 15% is done with hand planes, table saw and/or
sanding (a block plane does a fine job of putting on a small chamfer).

-Steve





"Bob G." wrote in message
.. .

I have been in the Hobby now for close to 40 years
and I have six routers in the shop... 4 of them are
permantely mounted in Router tables... 2 regular tables,
one Horizontal table, and one overhead pin router table
the last 2 are used for hand use....one is a plunge because that
feature is sometimes needed...the other has the standard base
and it honestly gets the most free hand use....

You listed features to look for below...

Router features you want;

A good brand name. ..........
Ok I will agree with you on that
Around 2HP and up.
None of mine even have 2 Hp Never
had a problem with lack of power
Soft Start feature.
Again None of mine have this and maybe
I do not know what I am missing..
Variable Speed.
Again none of mine have it.

Precision depth control.
"Presision" is hard to define...BUT I agree

1/4" and 1/2" collets
Only if you have a pile of old 1/4 in bits
on hand... I do but rarely use them
I like the plunge base.
IF I had only one router I agree...
Some method of dust control.
Lol.. the floor does a great job in my
of "collecting" dust in my shop


Just my opinion....
Bob Griffiths

Hi Bob,

I was striving for versatility for the person who buy's a single
router.

Mine has 1 3/4 HP. Never had a problem myself. But today, 2HP
routers are pretty common. I have the soft start on mine, which
was suprising for a router I bought on sale for $69 CDN, and I've
never owned a router without that feature, but I hear start up torque
in some router can be quite surprising. The variable speed feature
is nice. I learned that cutting a deep rabbet. I turned down the
speed and it did a lot nicer job in the Red Oak I was working with.
Frankly, the larger the bit diameter, the lower the speed is a good
safety practice, and has been mentioned fairly often in this group.

Most variable speed routers have the electronic compensation built in.
If the router bit slows down, the electronics will automatically
adjust the power to keep the speed uniform.

The precision depth which I don't have on mine. Mine's a turret depth
stop in 1/8" increments. It's a pain if you have to re-setup to
replicate a profile which you cut two or three days earlier. PC is
selling mid range routers with precision depth control that supposedly
is accurate to 1/128th of an inch. Never tried it myself, but it
sounds real good compared to the depth stop that I have on mine.

Most routers that will take a 1/2" bit, will also have a provision for
the 1/4" bits. Writing both sizes was just for clarity.

As for the plunge base. I've read about people complaining it is a
lot harder to control the router etc. The balance is different.
Maybe that is true, maybe some people feel more secure with a fixed
base. I think a lot depends on how you personally hold the router
and what you get used to doing.

As for the dust control. Some have vaccuum attachments that go
through the handle. Some have this little "stupid" plastic
attachment that mounts to the router base which seems to get in the
way, and interfers with the ability to do a full plunge with the
router. Like you, I choose to get thoroughly covered in dust and
use the shop vac to clean up afterwards. But generally speaking,
some form of dust control is a darn good thing.

Merry Christmas....

Pat




On Sat, 18 Dec 2004 10:51:06 -0500, Bob G.
wrote:


I have been in the Hobby now for close to 40 years
and I have six routers in the shop... 4 of them are
permantely mounted in Router tables... 2 regular tables,
one Horizontal table, and one overhead pin router table
the last 2 are used for hand use....one is a plunge because that
feature is sometimes needed...the other has the standard base
and it honestly gets the most free hand use....

You listed features to look for below...

Router features you want;

A good brand name. ..........
Ok I will agree with you on that
Around 2HP and up.
None of mine even have 2 Hp Never
had a problem with lack of power
Soft Start feature.
Again None of mine have this and maybe
I do not know what I am missing..
Variable Speed.
Again none of mine have it.

Precision depth control.
"Presision" is hard to define...BUT I agree

1/4" and 1/2" collets
Only if you have a pile of old 1/4 in bits
on hand... I do but rarely use them
I like the plunge base.
IF I had only one router I agree...
Some method of dust control.
Lol.. the floor does a great job in my
of "collecting" dust in my shop


Just my opinion....
Bob Griffiths

Otherwise take a look at the middle-range Bosch, Porter Cable,
Deltas, etc.


OOPS.....Don't spend much time looking for Deltas. I meant Dewalt. It's
hard to tell those yellow tools from others.

I bought the Bosch 1617 kit a couple of years ago with the case and the
separate plunge base. Great tool for any starter. Essentially two routers
in one set. I thought the wooden ball handles were kinda unique and
attractive. However, after several hours of use they really seem to enhance
the way the non-plunge configuration handles. Good all around tool and
enought power for respectable router table performance.

John McCoy wrote:

"Squanklin" wrote in news:1103290200.928896.305170
@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com:

If this is a
good plan, what should I look for in a mid-level router?

Soft-start. If you're not used to using a router, the jerk when a
router without soft-start spins up is very disconcerting (and the
router's likely to go where you didn't intend it). This is the
number one feature I think you should look for.

Beyond that, a plunge router is more versatile than a non-plunge
one, but a non-plunge router can be easier to control...many people
like to spend the extra for a dual-base model.

Whatever router bits you get, get in 1/2" shank sizes.

Everybody's saying 'get 1/2" shank bits'. Remember, the guy's a newbie, he
can't be expected to have any perspective and the way the issue has been
presented he might get the idea that he should never, ever get a 1/4" shank
bit for any purpose, which, since there are a number of useful bits that
don't _come_ in 1/2", is going to cause him no end of heartburn.

I think a caveat is in order there--any bit you buy that has a cutting
diameter of 1/2" or more get with a 1/2" shank. There's not much point in
getting a bit with a 1/8" cutting diameter and a 1/2" shank, even if you
could find one, and there are some cases such as keyhole cutters where
smaller shank diameter is pretty much necessary to function.

So, use 1/2" shank bits where the extra metal clearly adds strength to the
bit, but don't be afraid to use 1/4" where a 1/2" just has a little tiny
cutter sticking out of a huge chunk of metal.

You might consider using your new router to build a router table,
which is about the only useful accessory you need with a router.

Yup.

A mid-power router will work in the table for starters, if you
find yourself using it a lot you can get a dedicated 3hp monster
later.

I've never found a use for the assorted "accessories" that come
with some routers...a straight plank clamped to the work as a
fence works better than an "edge guide", etc.

Really depends on what you do. But usually the accessories that come with
it are rather flimsy.

John

--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

"J. Clarke" wrote in
:

John McCoy wrote:

I've never found a use for the assorted "accessories" that come
with some routers...a straight plank clamped to the work as a
fence works better than an "edge guide", etc.

Really depends on what you do. But usually the accessories that come
with it are rather flimsy.

Yeah, the implication there was "don't assign much value to any
accessories provided with the router, because you're not likely
to find too much use for them". In other words, base your buying
decision on just the router itself.

John