Hello group.
After having no success finding a used, low cost (~$100) , 220V 1
phase, AC buzz box around my local area (S. FL) , I've (reluctantly)
began looking at some of the import welders.

I've noticed many of the imports appear to be the same machine being
sold under different brands. Are there any real differences between
these similar looking machines?

TIA for any comments.
Art

note: if replying via email, remove the SPAAM and DOT from my email
address.

On Tue, 08 Mar 2005 04:44:47 GMT, the inscrutable Art
spake:

Hello group.
After having no success finding a used, low cost (~$100) , 220V 1
phase, AC buzz box around my local area (S. FL) , I've (reluctantly)
began looking at some of the import welders.

I've noticed many of the imports appear to be the same machine being
sold under different brands. Are there any real differences between
these similar looking machines?

I didn't really research them before my purchase, so I'm no help
there.


TIA for any comments.

I settled on the Harbor Freight #44568 at $119 on sale last month
when the few Tombstones I'd seen around here went for $125+. Even when
sticking the rod onto the weld fifty times while trying to get used to
the machine (and not being able to see with the handheld POS mask they
gave away with it) it didn't overheat and cycle on me. I'm impressed.
It's a larger box at 26x13x19"

But, now that I've tried the little lunchbox TIG welder of Glenn's,
I'd rather have one of those. They're on sale at $199 right now.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=91811

There seem to be 15 stores in FL, so one should be near you.


================================================== ========
I drank WHAT? + http://www.diversify.com
--Socrates + Web Application Programming

Art wrote:

Hello group.
After having no success finding a used, low cost (~$100) , 220V 1
phase, AC buzz box around my local area (S. FL) , I've (reluctantly)
began looking at some of the import welders.

I've noticed many of the imports appear to be the same machine being
sold under different brands. Are there any real differences between
these similar looking machines?

TIA for any comments.
Art

You are doing exactly what it takes to generate the perfect used buzzbox.
It will magically appear in your area a week or two AFTER you buy import!
I hang out with a bunch of people who say "don't quit five minutes before
the miracle". I vote for PATIENCE. Or looking in a different way. Have
you tried contacting local businesses or trade schools, looking for unwanted
machines?

Anyway, I have zero experience with import welders so can't say.. GWE

Grant Erwin wrote:

Art wrote:

Hello group.
After having no success finding a used, low cost (~$100) , 220V 1
phase, AC buzz box around my local area (S. FL) , I've (reluctantly)
began looking at some of the import welders.
I've noticed many of the imports appear to be the same machine being
sold under different brands. Are there any real differences between
these similar looking machines?

TIA for any comments.
Art


You are doing exactly what it takes to generate the perfect used buzzbox.
It will magically appear in your area a week or two AFTER you buy import!
I hang out with a bunch of people who say "don't quit five minutes before
the miracle". I vote for PATIENCE. Or looking in a different way. Have
you tried contacting local businesses or trade schools, looking for
unwanted machines?

Call some radio "tradeo" type programs, also. May have to call several
days in a row. Word will get around by word of mouth that you're
looking. Some lady will talk her husband into offering you the welder
he seldom uses. :-)

Larry Jacques wrote:

But, now that I've tried the little lunchbox TIG welder of Glenn's,
I'd rather have one of those. They're on sale at $199 right now.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=91811

Is that really worthwhile?
I am about to sell my 110V Crapsman MIG today. Figured on replacing it
with a Hobart 130, Firepower 120, or the Clarke 130 from Northern Tool.
The 110V MIGs have suited all my needs so far.
I had no idea there was a TIG in that price range.

Would the TIG be a better choice? Why?
Does it use a gas bottle like the MIG did? I am keeping my gas bottle
with 75/25.
--
- -
Rex Burkheimer
WM Automotive
Fort Worth TX

Do a little reading over on sci.engr.joining.welding. Tig is better
for some things, mig better for others. The TIG does use gas, but
straight argon. You can get your bottle filled with 100 % argon.

Dan


Rex B wrote:

Is that really worthwhile?
I am about to sell my 110V Crapsman MIG today. Figured on replacing
it
with a Hobart 130, Firepower 120, or the Clarke 130 from Northern
Tool.
The 110V MIGs have suited all my needs so far.
I had no idea there was a TIG in that price range.

Would the TIG be a better choice? Why?
Does it use a gas bottle like the MIG did? I am keeping my gas
bottle
with 75/25.
--
- -
Rex Burkheimer
WM Automotive
Fort Worth TX

I pulled up the spec sheet for a typical imported 240 volt stick welder:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=44568

and for the standard Lincoln "Tombstone" welder
http://content.lincolnelectric.com/p...ature/e260.pdf

A few things to think about:
The Licolon has an Open Circuit Voltage (OCV) of 79 volts versus 50
volts on the import. A high OCV is needed to start rods easily. A pro
usually doesn't care much, a newbie will be quite frustrated by the
import special.

The duty cycle on the Lincoln is 20% at the full rated 225 amps. They
don't have a curve but I suspect 100amps (about right range for 1/8"
6013 rod) has a duty cycle of 80% or better. ie just weld away. The duty
cycle on the import is 10% at 130 amps, wonder what it is at full
output? 5%???? Duty cycles are rated in 10 minute periods, figure about
1 minute to burn a rod. 10% means weld one rod, wait 9 minutes.

The shipping weight on the import is 58 pounds, the Lincoln comes in 124
pounds, more than double. Copper and iron in the core makes up the
difference.

Both of them will require you to purchase a helmet, the import does come
with a "shield" that requires you to hold in in place but they are a
pain to use.

Net: You get what you pay for. The import will do some jobs. It surely
won't do the other jobs the Lincoln will.

Art wrote:
Hello group.
After having no success finding a used, low cost (~$100) , 220V 1
phase, AC buzz box around my local area (S. FL) , I've (reluctantly)
began looking at some of the import welders.

I've noticed many of the imports appear to be the same machine being
sold under different brands. Are there any real differences between
these similar looking machines?

TIA for any comments.
Art

note: if replying via email, remove the SPAAM and DOT from my email
address.

You nailed it! No free lunch with the cheap import. My old Miller
Thunderbolt 225 has a 100% duty -cycle at 100A and about 80OCV.
Billh

"RoyJ" wrote in message
nk.net...
I pulled up the spec sheet for a typical imported 240 volt stick welder:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=44568

and for the standard Lincoln "Tombstone" welder
http://content.lincolnelectric.com/p...ature/e260.pdf

A few things to think about:
The Licolon has an Open Circuit Voltage (OCV) of 79 volts versus 50 volts
on the import. A high OCV is needed to start rods easily. A pro usually
doesn't care much, a newbie will be quite frustrated by the import
special.

The duty cycle on the Lincoln is 20% at the full rated 225 amps. They
don't have a curve but I suspect 100amps (about right range for 1/8" 6013
rod) has a duty cycle of 80% or better. ie just weld away. The duty cycle
on the import is 10% at 130 amps, wonder what it is at full output? 5%????
Duty cycles are rated in 10 minute periods, figure about 1 minute to burn
a rod. 10% means weld one rod, wait 9 minutes.

The shipping weight on the import is 58 pounds, the Lincoln comes in 124
pounds, more than double. Copper and iron in the core makes up the
difference.

Both of them will require you to purchase a helmet, the import does come
with a "shield" that requires you to hold in in place but they are a pain
to use.

Net: You get what you pay for. The import will do some jobs. It surely
won't do the other jobs the Lincoln will.

Art wrote:
Hello group.
After having no success finding a used, low cost (~$100) , 220V 1
phase, AC buzz box around my local area (S. FL) , I've (reluctantly)
began looking at some of the import welders. I've noticed many of the
imports appear to be the same machine being
sold under different brands. Are there any real differences between
these similar looking machines?

TIA for any comments.
Art

note: if replying via email, remove the SPAAM and DOT from my email
address.

On Tue, 08 Mar 2005 06:58:29 -0800, Grant Erwin
wrote:

Art wrote:

Hello group.
After having no success finding a used, low cost (~$100) , 220V 1
phase, AC buzz box around my local area (S. FL) , I've (reluctantly)
began looking at some of the import welders.

I've noticed many of the imports appear to be the same machine being
sold under different brands. Are there any real differences between
these similar looking machines?

TIA for any comments.
Art

You are doing exactly what it takes to generate the perfect used buzzbox.
It will magically appear in your area a week or two AFTER you buy import!

hey... thats not a bad idea... buy an import, The Fates then popup a
AC/DC 225 for $50, down my street, I then buy the 225 and sell
import... LOL
ah... but The Fates are smarter than that.

I hang out with a bunch of people who say "don't quit five minutes before
the miracle". I vote for PATIENCE. Or looking in a different way. Have
you tried contacting local businesses or trade schools, looking for unwanted
machines?

Thanks, this is a VERY good idea. There must be more than a dozen weld
shops right nearby (security bars are real big down here ), and way
more shops if I include the metro area.

Thanks to all those who have responded with comments.

Art


Anyway, I have zero experience with import welders so can't say.. GWE

One more thing -- for many years now, BOTH the Lincoln and Miller buzzboxes
have their main transformers wound with ALUMINUM not copper. Those who think
just because they're made in the US they're heavy copper, it ain't so. - GWE

A question....

Does it matter if a transformer is wound with aluminum or copper if the
transformer is designed for the type of metal used?

I would consider that copper would be denser and a better heat
conductor but shouldn't aluminum be just as good if the core is
adjusted accordingly?

TMT

Too_Many_Tools wrote:

A question....

Does it matter if a transformer is wound with aluminum or copper if the
transformer is designed for the type of metal used?

I would consider that copper would be denser and a better heat
conductor but shouldn't aluminum be just as good if the core is
adjusted accordingly?

TMT


I don't think it matters, no. Although I doubt the aluminum-wound xformer
is quite as good as it could be were it copper-wound, mine works fine and
so does everyone else's that I know of. - GWE

TIG is not as fast as MIG but you can ultimately do more with it. It is
strictly DC but has several nice features. The learning curve for TIG is a
bit steeper than MIG .. Must have taken Larry all of 3 mins to get the hang
of it
Get some good tungsten for it. I have not tried it with stick yet. Having
too much fun with the TIG
Glenn
"Rex B" wrote in message
...
Larry Jacques wrote:

But, now that I've tried the little lunchbox TIG welder of Glenn's,
I'd rather have one of those. They're on sale at $199 right now.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=91811

Is that really worthwhile?
I am about to sell my 110V Crapsman MIG today. Figured on replacing it
with a Hobart 130, Firepower 120, or the Clarke 130 from Northern Tool.
The 110V MIGs have suited all my needs so far.
I had no idea there was a TIG in that price range.

Would the TIG be a better choice? Why?
Does it use a gas bottle like the MIG did? I am keeping my gas bottle
with 75/25.
--
- -
Rex Burkheimer
WM Automotive
Fort Worth TX

On Tue, 08 Mar 2005 09:32:32 -0600, Rex B wrote:

Larry Jacques wrote:

But, now that I've tried the little lunchbox TIG welder of Glenn's,
I'd rather have one of those. They're on sale at $199 right now.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=91811

Is that really worthwhile?
I am about to sell my 110V Crapsman MIG today. Figured on replacing it
with a Hobart 130, Firepower 120, or the Clarke 130 from Northern Tool.
The 110V MIGs have suited all my needs so far.
I had no idea there was a TIG in that price range.

Would the TIG be a better choice? Why?
Does it use a gas bottle like the MIG did? I am keeping my gas bottle
with 75/25.

If your work is mostly automotive as your sigline suggests, MIG will
probably suit you best. TIG is more precise and easier to control if
it has a footpedal. It is also capable of doing a greater
diversity of materials. MIG is a lot faster than TIG and works
particularly well on automotive sheetmetal. If the low-cost TIG
doesn't have a foot control, then low-cost MIG is the clear choice.

If you have 220 available and you want to weld steel thicker than
1/8", you might be very glad you spent the few extra bux for a small
220-volt MIG. The 110 volt machines can do up to 3/16" with
fluxcore, but what they do best is 1/8" and less with gas. The 220
volt machines can MIG-weld 5/16" to 3/8" in one pass and do it well.
They can also do the thin stuff, down to 22 gage anyway.

A skilled weldor can go considerably beyond these guidelines and
still get good welds so YMMV. I merely offer what I've learned from
my experience.

Don Foreman wrote:
On Tue, 08 Mar 2005 09:32:32 -0600, Rex B wrote:


Larry Jacques wrote:

But, now that I've tried the little lunchbox TIG welder of Glenn's,
I'd rather have one of those. They're on sale at $199 right now.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=91811

Is that really worthwhile?
I am about to sell my 110V Crapsman MIG today. Figured on replacing it
with a Hobart 130, Firepower 120, or the Clarke 130 from Northern Tool.
The 110V MIGs have suited all my needs so far.
I had no idea there was a TIG in that price range.

Would the TIG be a better choice? Why?
Does it use a gas bottle like the MIG did? I am keeping my gas bottle
with 75/25.


If your work is mostly automotive as your sigline suggests, MIG will
probably suit you best. TIG is more precise and easier to control if
it has a footpedal. It is also capable of doing a greater
diversity of materials. MIG is a lot faster than TIG and works
particularly well on automotive sheetmetal. If the low-cost TIG
doesn't have a foot control, then low-cost MIG is the clear choice.

If you have 220 available and you want to weld steel thicker than
1/8", you might be very glad you spent the few extra bux for a small
220-volt MIG. The 110 volt machines can do up to 3/16" with
fluxcore, but what they do best is 1/8" and less with gas. The 220
volt machines can MIG-weld 5/16" to 3/8" in one pass and do it well.
They can also do the thin stuff, down to 22 gage anyway.

A skilled weldor can go considerably beyond these guidelines and
still get good welds so YMMV. I merely offer what I've learned from
my experience.

Don
Good information. I do have 220V in the shop, single outlet used by
my compressor. Sounds like I need to be looking at a 220V MIG
As for usage, little of my welding is automotive. I do have some
SCCA race cars, but have rarely needed welding. That's a good thing
Mostly I seem to use the welder for small projects that are
non-automotive. Fixing machine tools, building modifying the shop
heater etc.
Maybe I'll buy both. Can't have too many tools, ya know.


--
- -
Rex Burkheimer
WM Automotive
Fort Worth TX

On Tue, 8 Mar 2005 18:36:17 -0800, the inscrutable "Glenn"
spake:

TIG is not as fast as MIG but you can ultimately do more with it. It is
strictly DC but has several nice features. The learning curve for TIG is a
bit steeper than MIG .. Must have taken Larry all of 3 mins to get the hang
of it

And I would have had it perfected at 5 minutes. Buddha knows it
was better than that chicken scratch I made on the truck weld...


Get some good tungsten for it. I have not tried it with stick yet. Having
too much fun with the TIG

So TRY it, will ya? "We" want to know if it's an all-around winner.


"Rex B" wrote in message
...
Larry Jacques wrote:

I'm known as "C-less" over on the Wreck because my name has no
"c" in it.


But, now that I've tried the little lunchbox TIG welder of Glenn's,
I'd rather have one of those. They're on sale at $199 right now.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=91811

Is that really worthwhile?
I am about to sell my 110V Crapsman MIG today. Figured on replacing it
with a Hobart 130, Firepower 120, or the Clarke 130 from Northern Tool.
The 110V MIGs have suited all my needs so far.
I had no idea there was a TIG in that price range.

Yeah, it's new and AFAIK, it's the only one at that price point.
Next year there'll be a dozen.


Would the TIG be a better choice? Why?
Does it use a gas bottle like the MIG did? I am keeping my gas bottle
with 75/25.

A MIG gun can get in tighter spaces, but TIG is really nice. I like
the strange purr it makes, too. Better tahn the crackling bacon the
MIG makes.

================================================== ========
I drank WHAT? + http://www.diversify.com
--Socrates + Web Application Programming

Don Foreman wrote:
On Tue, 08 Mar 2005 09:32:32 -0600, Rex B wrote:


Larry Jacques wrote:

But, now that I've tried the little lunchbox TIG welder of Glenn's,
I'd rather have one of those. They're on sale at $199 right now.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=91811

Is that really worthwhile?
I am about to sell my 110V Crapsman MIG today. Figured on replacing it
with a Hobart 130, Firepower 120, or the Clarke 130 from Northern Tool.
The 110V MIGs have suited all my needs so far.
I had no idea there was a TIG in that price range.

Would the TIG be a better choice? Why?
Does it use a gas bottle like the MIG did? I am keeping my gas bottle
with 75/25.


If your work is mostly automotive as your sigline suggests, MIG will
probably suit you best. TIG is more precise and easier to control if
it has a footpedal.

Can a footpedal be added, or must it be designed in by the manufacturer?

It is also capable of doing a greater
diversity of materials.

Can I weld aluminum just by chaging electrodes?
That would have some merit.

MIG is a lot faster than TIG and works
particularly well on automotive sheetmetal.

Speed is not a big deal. Ease of use is.
From what I've seen, it seems like TIG is easier to control the quality
of the bead. Perhaps because you don't have the big MIG gas shield
hiding the work?

If you have 220 available and you want to weld steel thicker than
1/8", you might be very glad you spent the few extra bux for a small
220-volt MIG. The 110 volt machines can do up to 3/16" with
fluxcore, but what they do best is 1/8" and less with gas. The 220
volt machines can MIG-weld 5/16" to 3/8" in one pass and do it well.
They can also do the thin stuff, down to 22 gage anyway.

Good point, raises the ante

This unit has a TIG electrode and also a stick-welding electrode/cable.
So without any gas connected, I could do regular old stick welding
(which I've never done)?

Quite honestly, it would probably be a month before I have occasion to
use a welder. Also, I have a small OA rig that I use for brazing.
--
- -
Rex Burkheimer
WM Automotive
Fort Worth TX

On Wed, 09 Mar 2005 13:21:09 -0600, Rex B wrote:

Don Foreman wrote:
On Tue, 08 Mar 2005 09:32:32 -0600, Rex B wrote:


Larry Jacques wrote:

But, now that I've tried the little lunchbox TIG welder of Glenn's,
I'd rather have one of those. They're on sale at $199 right now.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=91811

Is that really worthwhile?
I am about to sell my 110V Crapsman MIG today. Figured on replacing it
with a Hobart 130, Firepower 120, or the Clarke 130 from Northern Tool.
The 110V MIGs have suited all my needs so far.
I had no idea there was a TIG in that price range.

Would the TIG be a better choice? Why?
Does it use a gas bottle like the MIG did? I am keeping my gas bottle
with 75/25.


If your work is mostly automotive as your sigline suggests, MIG will
probably suit you best. TIG is more precise and easier to control if
it has a footpedal.

Can a footpedal be added, or must it be designed in by the manufacturer?

Depends on the design of the machine. I wouldn't think it would be
too difficult on an inverter machine if one had a schematic.

It is also capable of doing a greater
diversity of materials.

Can I weld aluminum just by chaging electrodes?
That would have some merit.

AC capability and HF start are very helpful with aluminum. DCRP can
be used at low current with a big tungsten -- read thin aluminum.

MIG is a lot faster than TIG and works
particularly well on automotive sheetmetal.

Speed is not a big deal. Ease of use is.
From what I've seen, it seems like TIG is easier to control the quality
of the bead. Perhaps because you don't have the big MIG gas shield
hiding the work?

It is easier to control because it's slower, you can control heat with
the footpedal, and you have independent control of heat and rate of
addition (or not) of filler. The gas cup is still in the way, though.
Welding an inside corner is a lot easier with MIG than with TIG
because the wire can stick out quite a ways on MIG and still work OK.

If you have 220 available and you want to weld steel thicker than
1/8", you might be very glad you spent the few extra bux for a small
220-volt MIG. The 110 volt machines can do up to 3/16" with
fluxcore, but what they do best is 1/8" and less with gas. The 220
volt machines can MIG-weld 5/16" to 3/8" in one pass and do it well.
They can also do the thin stuff, down to 22 gage anyway.

Good point, raises the ante

This unit has a TIG electrode and also a stick-welding electrode/cable.
So without any gas connected, I could do regular old stick welding
(which I've never done)?

Yes, and you can do a lot of useful welding with stick. But once
you've used a 220-volt MIG you would probably never be inclined to
stickweld again. MIG doesn't leave slag or spatter to clean up, no
smoke, and much easier to do out-of-position as in vertical or
overhead welds.

Quite honestly, it would probably be a month before I have occasion to
use a welder. Also, I have a small OA rig that I use for brazing.

Note: I'm not pushing MIG in preference to TIG in general. TIG is
very useful at times. The issue here is function vs cost. A
decent 220-volt MIG machine can be had for considerably less than a
good TIG machine. And, as seen often on this forum, a good used
stick welder can be found (in some areas) for $100 or less.

Don Foreman wrote:
On Wed, 09 Mar 2005 13:21:09 -0600, Rex B wrote:


Don Foreman wrote:

On Tue, 08 Mar 2005 09:32:32 -0600, Rex B wrote:



Larry Jacques wrote:


But, now that I've tried the little lunchbox TIG welder of Glenn's,
I'd rather have one of those. They're on sale at $199 right now.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=91811

Is that really worthwhile?
I am about to sell my 110V Crapsman MIG today. Figured on replacing it
with a Hobart 130, Firepower 120, or the Clarke 130 from Northern Tool.
The 110V MIGs have suited all my needs so far.
I had no idea there was a TIG in that price range.

Would the TIG be a better choice? Why?
Does it use a gas bottle like the MIG did? I am keeping my gas bottle
with 75/25.


If your work is mostly automotive as your sigline suggests, MIG will
probably suit you best. TIG is more precise and easier to control if
it has a footpedal.

Can a footpedal be added, or must it be designed in by the manufacturer?


Depends on the design of the machine. I wouldn't think it would be
too difficult on an inverter machine if one had a schematic.

It is also capable of doing a greater

diversity of materials.

Can I weld aluminum just by chaging electrodes?
That would have some merit.


AC capability and HF start are very helpful with aluminum. DCRP can
be used at low current with a big tungsten -- read thin aluminum.

MIG is a lot faster than TIG and works

particularly well on automotive sheetmetal.

Speed is not a big deal. Ease of use is.
From what I've seen, it seems like TIG is easier to control the quality
of the bead. Perhaps because you don't have the big MIG gas shield
hiding the work?


It is easier to control because it's slower, you can control heat with
the footpedal, and you have independent control of heat and rate of
addition (or not) of filler. The gas cup is still in the way, though.
Welding an inside corner is a lot easier with MIG than with TIG
because the wire can stick out quite a ways on MIG and still work OK.

If you have 220 available and you want to weld steel thicker than
1/8", you might be very glad you spent the few extra bux for a small
220-volt MIG. The 110 volt machines can do up to 3/16" with
fluxcore, but what they do best is 1/8" and less with gas. The 220
volt machines can MIG-weld 5/16" to 3/8" in one pass and do it well.
They can also do the thin stuff, down to 22 gage anyway.

Good point, raises the ante

This unit has a TIG electrode and also a stick-welding electrode/cable.
So without any gas connected, I could do regular old stick welding
(which I've never done)?


Yes, and you can do a lot of useful welding with stick. But once
you've used a 220-volt MIG you would probably never be inclined to
stickweld again. MIG doesn't leave slag or spatter to clean up, no
smoke, and much easier to do out-of-position as in vertical or
overhead welds.

Quite honestly, it would probably be a month before I have occasion to
use a welder. Also, I have a small OA rig that I use for brazing.


Note: I'm not pushing MIG in preference to TIG in general. TIG is
very useful at times. The issue here is function vs cost. A
decent 220-volt MIG machine can be had for considerably less than a
good TIG machine. And, as seen often on this forum, a good used
stick welder can be found (in some areas) for $100 or less.

OK, all considered sounds like I need to stick with MIG.

Thanks for the input.


--
- -
Rex Burkheimer
WM Automotive
Fort Worth TX

"Rex B" wrote in message
...

snip

OK, all considered sounds like I need to stick with MIG.

No, no, you've gotten it mixed up -- you can't stick weld with a MIG
machine. Wait, that is what you meant, isn't it? g

"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
Too_Many_Tools wrote:

A question....

Does it matter if a transformer is wound with aluminum or copper if the
transformer is designed for the type of metal used?

I would consider that copper would be denser and a better heat
conductor but shouldn't aluminum be just as good if the core is
adjusted accordingly?

TMT


I don't think it matters, no. Although I doubt the aluminum-wound xformer
is quite as good as it could be were it copper-wound, mine works fine and
so does everyone else's that I know of. - GWE

Unless they make the conductors a bit larger there will be increased heating
of the transformer since the resistance of aluminum is higher than copper.
Also, you have to take more care when making connections to the ends of the
winding. Your whole outside electrical grid uses aluminum so it ain't that
bad. I wonder if they use aluminum or copper inside the pole transformers?
Billh

Andrew H. Wakefield wrote:
"Rex B" wrote in message
...

snip

OK, all considered sounds like I need to stick with MIG.


No, no, you've gotten it mixed up -- you can't stick weld with a MIG
machine. Wait, that is what you meant, isn't it? g


Keep it up, Andy, and you'll really TIG me off!


--
- -
Rex

Ouch! I know when I've been beaten. But wait -- wi're we even having this
discussion? g

"Rex B" wrote in message
...
Andrew H. Wakefield wrote:
"Rex B" wrote in message
...

snip

OK, all considered sounds like I need to stick with MIG.


No, no, you've gotten it mixed up -- you can't stick weld with a MIG
machine. Wait, that is what you meant, isn't it? g


Keep it up, Andy, and you'll really TIG me off!


--
- -
Rex