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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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Sweating Copper w/ O/A??
Awl--
Someone ripped my B-tank sweating set-up. Turbo-Torch, Goss repalcements are, yikes, $200. I seem to remember a less fancy ditty for $60-70. Anyone know where I can get something like this? HD, Sears just have the bitty propane stuff. Plumbing supply houses only carry the $200 stuff. BUT, Can I just use my regyoolar O/A , w/ a highly reducing flame (ie, not a lot of Ox so's I don't wind up melting the copper)??? I have various size welding tips--as well as cutting tips. Yeah, now I gotta lug two tanks around, but I don't do a lot of sweating anyway (this partic. job may req. more heat than propane can give), so maybe I can save some bucks? Does it make sense that low ox pressure would be equivalent to TurboTorches venturi-type air, ie, air sucked in or aspirated w/ the acetylene flow? Strange, but if memory serves, the TT flame almost looks like an O/A flame, but w/ just atmospheric air!! Not like it smokes or anything. Yet there has to be a substantial diff. in heat/temp, right?? Just curious about that. Hope you all can help, as this plumbing job--or lack thereof--is causing some amount of grief. And that $200 for a TT ain't exactly burnin holes in my pocket. ---------------------------- Mr. P.V.'d formerly Droll Troll |
#2
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In article , Proctologically Violated©® says...
Can I just use my regyoolar O/A , w/ a highly reducing flame You don't need a highly reducing flame. A neutral one works just fine. But be aware that you have a lot more heat at your disposal, so if it took a flame that was 1/4 inch in diameter to do a sweat fitting (say, for example, an half inch elbow to to pieces of half inch pipe) and it took a minute to get that up to temperature, you can use a flame that is smaller (say, 1/8 diameter) and it will be ready to flow in about 15 seconds. Jim -- ================================================== please reply to: JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com ================================================== |
#3
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"Proctologically Violated©®" wrote: (clip) I seem to remember a less fancy ditty for $60-70. Anyone know where I can get something like this? (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Can't you just hook a Prestolite torch to your acetylene hose, and do what you want? Also, check to see whether air/acetylene tips are available for your present O/A torch. |
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Proctologically Violated=A9=AE wrote: Awl-- Someone ripped my B-tank sweating set-up. Turbo-Torch, Goss repalcements are, yikes, $200. I seem to remember a less fancy ditty for $60-70. Anyone know where I can get something like this? HD, Sears just have the bitty propane stuff. Plumbing supply houses only carry the $200 stuff. BUT, Can I just use my regyoolar O/A , w/ a highly reducing flame (ie, not a lot of Ox so's I don't wind up melting the copper)??? I have various size welding tips--as well as cutting tips. Yeah, now I gotta lug two tanks around, but I don't do a lot of sweating anyway (this partic. job may req. more heat than propane can give), so maybe I can save some bucks? Does it make sense that low ox pressure would be equivalent to TurboTorches venturi-type air, ie, air sucked in or aspirated w/ the acetylene flow? Strange, but if memory serves, the TT flame almost looks like an O/A flame, but w/ just atmospheric air!! Not like it smokes or anything. Yet there has to be a substantial diff. in heat/temp, right?? Just curious about that. Hope you all can help, as this plumbing job--or lack thereof--is causing some amount of grief. And that $200 for a TT ain't exactly burnin holes in my pocket. ---------------------------- Mr. P.V.'d formerly Droll Troll Yup, Big Bucks for air/acetylene outfits, you can almost buy a really good O/A rig for what they get. I've seen the "discount" prices at the welding supply, yikes!! I've used the turbo-type propane burners for plumbing copper, you can get some that have swivel heads which kind of reduces the need for the separate hand torch like the Goss. Usually runs $30 or less for the bare head and includes its own piezo striker. These are not daddy's Bernzomatic. Most can use MAPP, if you need more temperature. I've used mine on 1" supply-line tubing without problems, but if you're doing copper drains or vents you might need a couple. I haven't used granddad's Prestolite outfit in a long time, but then I don't make a living from it, either. You could solder with O/A but I imagine you'd have to be really quick. If you're firmly wedded to air/acetylene, check around at the pawn shops(you might find your own rig, too). Beat-up rigs with tank usually go for around $90-100 around here, though you can usually beat the price down. Alternative: I've seen solderless plumbing joining kits down at True-Value, looks like some sort of epoxy adhesive. I'd suppose that its permissibility depends on local plumbing codes, though. Stan |
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On 2005-03-01, Proctologically Violated©® wrote:
Can I just use my regyoolar O/A I've seen professional plumbers using O/A to sweat fittings. It makes a cheap propane torch look like a total joke! You can sweat complicated joints in large diameter copper pipe in seconds. Use a small (1/4"? welding tip and a neutral flame. -- Ben Jackson http://www.ben.com/ |
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"Ben Jackson" wrote in message ... On 2005-03-01, Proctologically Violated©® wrote: Can I just use my regyoolar O/A I've seen professional plumbers using O/A to sweat fittings. It makes a cheap propane torch look like a total joke! You can sweat complicated joints in large diameter copper pipe in seconds. Use a small (1/4"? welding tip and a neutral flame. Musta been worth it, to lug two tanks around! Do you think I could use some pretty thick rosin core solder I have? I would of course still use paste flux, but the rosin core I have is almost as thick as plumbing solder. Also, the line is more for shop water than drinking, etc., lest the composition of the solder give pause. Plus I'm too old for anything to really affect my brain, at this point. Thanks. -- ---------------------------- Mr. P.V.'d formerly Droll Troll -- Ben Jackson http://www.ben.com/ |
#7
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On Tue, 1 Mar 2005 15:10:36 -0500, "Proctologically Violated©®"
wrote: Awl-- Someone ripped my B-tank sweating set-up. Turbo-Torch, Goss repalcements are, yikes, $200. I seem to remember a less fancy ditty for $60-70. Anyone know where I can get something like this? HD, Sears just have the bitty propane stuff. Plumbing supply houses only carry the $200 stuff. Just get a little bottle of "just for copper". It is like a cold weld, works on copper and brass only - good for something like 400 degrees. It works like crazy glue - and is just as strong as solder - $24 Canadian for a bottle that does 200 joints, or something like that. I've used it, and it is GREAT!!. BUT, Can I just use my regyoolar O/A , w/ a highly reducing flame (ie, not a lot of Ox so's I don't wind up melting the copper)??? I have various size welding tips--as well as cutting tips. Yeah, now I gotta lug two tanks around, but I don't do a lot of sweating anyway (this partic. job may req. more heat than propane can give), so maybe I can save some bucks? Does it make sense that low ox pressure would be equivalent to TurboTorches venturi-type air, ie, air sucked in or aspirated w/ the acetylene flow? Strange, but if memory serves, the TT flame almost looks like an O/A flame, but w/ just atmospheric air!! Not like it smokes or anything. Yet there has to be a substantial diff. in heat/temp, right?? Just curious about that. Hope you all can help, as this plumbing job--or lack thereof--is causing some amount of grief. And that $200 for a TT ain't exactly burnin holes in my pocket. ---------------------------- Mr. P.V.'d formerly Droll Troll |
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