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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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New to metalworking and need some pointers.
Ok, I am sure you guys get asked these questions a lot, so i apologize
in advance. I am totaly and completely new to metal working. I am mostly curious about making little parts with a lathe. I just dont know what a good lathe is, and what some good reading material is on using a lathe. What are some good brands of lathe? are Jets good, cause i was looking around a bit and i saw a jet that was about $1,000 brand new. Well thanks for reading, hope to get some good answers from you guys, as id like to get into metal working. |
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Snyper1982 wrote: Ok, I am sure you guys get asked these questions a lot, so i apologize in advance. I am totaly and completely new to metal working. I am mostly curious about making little parts with a lathe. I just dont know what a good lathe is, and what some good reading material is on using a lathe. What are some good brands of lathe? are Jets good, cause i was looking around a bit and i saw a jet that was about $1,000 brand new. Well thanks for reading, hope to get some good answers from you guys, as id like to get into metal working. If you have the room, look at buying a larger, older lathe for a fraction of the cost. It will make little parts fine, and also bigger parts, which you will inevitably get into as you gain experience. The imported lathes are getting better in quality but still don't measure up to older American or European machines. With all the conversion to electronic control, there are mountains of fine old iron out there to be had for a song. Keep in mind that the accessories; chucks, toolholders, faceplates, bits, etc. can cost more than the lathe itself. Look for one that is well equipped and save kilobucks. Good luck and enjoy. Bugs |
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"Snyper1982" wrote in message oups.com... Ok, I am sure you guys get asked these questions a lot, so i apologize in advance. I am totaly and completely new to metal working. I am mostly curious about making little parts with a lathe. I just dont know what a good lathe is, and what some good reading material is on using a lathe. What are some good brands of lathe? are Jets good, cause i was looking around a bit and i saw a jet that was about $1,000 brand new. Well thanks for reading, hope to get some good answers from you guys, as id like to get into metal working. Will this be for personal hobby work? How big (diameter) parts will you need to make? Tell what you want to accomplish and you'll get lots of ideas here. Randy |
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As for books some of the old Southbend reprints are great. Check out "How to
run a lathe" and "Machine shop projects" . Those and many more you can get at http://www.lindsaybks.com/ Lindsay books reprints a lot of cool old books. As far as a lathe. If your looking at a Jet look at Grizzly and Harbor Freight. Jet lathes are the highest of the bunch and all 3 have the same lathe just with different stickers and paint color. The $1000 lathe at jet is the Grizzly 4000 which can be had for about $850 delivered and the HF version is on sale for $599 until the 26th. Old American iron can be had for a good deal depending on what area of the country you live in. If you're in the NE there are tons of old iron available. In the old industrial NE there were thousands of machine shops years ago and many workers had their own equipment at home too. If you're in the Texas area like me there are slim pickings so I went with a HF unit.I got tired of finding nothing in all the papers and all the ebay stuff was either to high or it would cost more to ship than it was worth. Best advice is to check out yahoo groups for whatever lathes you are looking at: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/9x20Lathe/ This group covers all the chinese lathes like HF, Jet, Grizzly etc http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman/ This one covers all the old Atlas/ Craftsman lathes http://groups.yahoo.com/group/southbendlathe/ Southbend group There are groups for Sheldon, Logan and probably many more. You can read till yer eyeballs pop out. Byron... "Snyper1982" wrote in message oups.com... Ok, I am sure you guys get asked these questions a lot, so i apologize in advance. I am totaly and completely new to metal working. I am mostly curious about making little parts with a lathe. I just dont know what a good lathe is, and what some good reading material is on using a lathe. What are some good brands of lathe? are Jets good, cause i was looking around a bit and i saw a jet that was about $1,000 brand new. Well thanks for reading, hope to get some good answers from you guys, as id like to get into metal working. |
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On 24 Dec 2004 22:21:34 -0800, "Snyper1982"
wrote: What are some good brands of lathe? are Jets good, cause i was looking around a bit and i saw a jet that was about $1,000 brand new. Well thanks for reading, hope to get some good answers from you guys, as id like to get into metal working. First, http://www.lindsaybks.com He has reprints of many of the older lathe manuals, any of them will give a ton of information. Trade school texts from the second hand stores will also have a lot that is of use. Jet lathes, still imported and not better than any other import, just more expensive. Enco, Harbor Freight, almost any of the importers sell what is basically the same machine. You mention the $1000, tells me you're looking at the 9 X 20. These, and the smaller 7 X xx machines are light duty machines. They do work, and if you have patience, will work well. However, that's not the first item to look at. To make them work well, you have to do some work on them. These, all of the imports, are kits for all practical purposes. Disassembly and cleaning, then stoning the burrs off and doing the adjustments when you put it back together are a must. I don't see this as a problem, you didn't pay for American iron, and you didn't get it. A couple of hours work will pay off. The 9 X 20 lathes do not have a reverse on the lead screw, as they come, they will not cut left hand threads. For most people, this isn't a problem. The 7 X xx will, But they probably require a higher level of skill to thread on. Until you're up to at least 12 inch swing, the low speeds are still too fast to be comfortable threading. It can be done, but it isn't comfortable. Import vs old American iron, this can work both ways, especially with a beginner. You WILL crash the machine sooner or later, maybe doing damage that requires repair parts. With a lot of machines, this leaves the great American rip, ebay, as the parts source. There are also many cases where even ebay will fall flat, depending on the machine and it's age. This is where one of the benefits of the imports come in, they have parts available cheaply enough that when you crash it, you aren't destroying something that can't be replaced. Old American iron that's nice and resplendent in it's new paint doesn't mean anything, it could have been used on production for the last thirty years before it was cleaned and painted, worn out to the point of being useless. Unless you know what to look for, you won't know. On the other hand, it's possible, although I haven't had it happen yet, to get an import that simply is so bad it can't be made to work well. The only way anyone finds out is when they try to use it. The better chance is that it will need to be cleaned, deburred and adjusted, then will work ok. Smaller machines, check out Taig and Sherline, both are excellent if somewhat limited machines, but can be pricey to have a running machine. Just be aware that they are tiny, and made for small, very precise work, not hogging 1 inch stock down to 1/4 inch. They can do it, but it's the death of 1000 cuts. Base price on a new Taig is less than $150, but for that, by the time you triple it, you have a running machine. It's still probably the most bang for the buck if you can get along with a small machine. |
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On 24 Dec 2004 22:21:34 -0800, "Snyper1982" wrote: Ok, I am sure you guys get asked these questions a lot, so i apologize in advance. I am totaly and completely new to metal working. I am mostly curious about making little parts with a lathe. I just dont know what a good lathe is, and what some good reading material is on using a lathe. What are some good brands of lathe? are Jets good, cause i was looking around a bit and i saw a jet that was about $1,000 brand new. Well thanks for reading, hope to get some good answers from you guys, as id like to get into metal working. Knowing your location would help. I have seen at least one import that was about useless brand new: a 9" from Enco. Fortunately, we only bought it for making simple stuff like coil bobbins and spacers, and that was definitely all it was good for. We junked it when we found a surplus South Bend for the cost of moving it to our lab. If you can find a knowledgeable person to help you look, I think you'd be better served by an old South Bend, Logan or Sheldon as a first lathe but you need someone to help determine if it's in decent shape. A good used machinery dealer may be able to help. They profit by buying well, selling the good stuff at a reasonable profit and parting out the dogs. You pay some for their experience and time spent finding and gathering stuff to sell. It could be money well spent for a beginner. You should be able to get a very nice used lathe from a reputable dealer for less than the cost of a new import. With an import or a USA-made-used machine of unknown condition, you'll never know if your frustrations are due to your own inexperience or to inadequacies/faults in the machine itself. |
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It strikes me that you'll get the most bang for your buck if you can get
a little experience using a machine. Hunt around and see if a local community college or even a friend of a friend is available to you. Just a couple hours of work might make you much more clear on what is important. Used quality machines can be a good deal (my preference), depending on where you are. The ones at used machinery dealers can often be pretty beat however. Read a lot. Lindsay Books (mentioned in another post) is a great source of inexpensive books on such. Steve Snyper1982 wrote: Ok, I am sure you guys get asked these questions a lot, so i apologize in advance. I am totaly and completely new to metal working. I am mostly curious about making little parts with a lathe. I just dont know what a good lathe is, and what some good reading material is on using a lathe. What are some good brands of lathe? are Jets good, cause i was looking around a bit and i saw a jet that was about $1,000 brand new. Well thanks for reading, hope to get some good answers from you guys, as id like to get into metal working. |
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Snyper
It all depends on what your trying to do. Small parts to a Cat mechanic are much bigger that small parts to a watch maker. If your looking at a Jet I'm going to assume that you are looking in the 9" by 24" to 11" by 36" machine. Outside of the imports there are the older Logan, Sheldon and South Bend lathes. Most parts for these lathes are available some used and some new. Ya pays your money and takes your choice. Where in the world are you? There are model engineering groups around that you could hook up with. Be aware that your only looking for your FIRST lathe. It will be a training tool and allow you to figure out what you really need to accomplish what you want. Are you a capable mechanic who can deal with keeping an older machine tuned up and running. Do you keep you car repaired and going , or just drop it off at the dealer to be fixed. I don't ask that to be critical, just be honest with yourself about the abilities you have and what you are willing to do. Do you expect the lathe you get to just be a tool, taking no more care than a Crescent wrench, or a tool like your computer that takes a fair amount of upkeep and attention. A lathe is more like a computer, It takes care and attention to keep functioning. An older computer takes a bit more fiddling to keep going. The same with and older lathe. A cheap import, or an old lathe are going to require some loving attention to make it yours. A high quality new machine will run "out of the box" but still requires maintenance and up keep. lg no neat sig line "Snyper1982" wrote in message oups.com... Ok, I am sure you guys get asked these questions a lot, so i apologize in advance. I am totaly and completely new to metal working. I am mostly curious about making little parts with a lathe. I just dont know what a good lathe is, and what some good reading material is on using a lathe. What are some good brands of lathe? are Jets good, cause i was looking around a bit and i saw a jet that was about $1,000 brand new. Well thanks for reading, hope to get some good answers from you guys, as id like to get into metal working. |
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I have a 1967 Clausing 5914 lathe that is the same size as my brother's new Jet lathe. I also have a small Grizzly lathe. I have used all three enough to know the differences. 1) Jet, great 2) old American, great if not worn out 3) Grizzly, unacceptable. My theory is that parts are made all over China, and the ones that pass inspection go into Jet lathes and bad parts are graded as Grizzlies. Anyway, a mint condition Hardinge lathe is what you want, but they are not easy to find cheap. If you are used lathe shopping, you will need to read up on what to look for. Otherwise, get a Jet and you will be happy. Clark -- Be careful what you pray for, it can happen. |
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On Sat, 25 Dec 2004 17:22:40 GMT, Clark Magnuson
wrote: My theory is that parts are made all over China, and the ones that pass inspection go into Jet lathes and bad parts are graded as Grizzlies. My theory is that you pulled the grizzly out of the box and expected it to be a Hardinge. Jet is no better than Harbor Freight, just more expensive. But then, from past postings, I get the opinion that you want to pull the machine out of the box and have it working like a new Hardinge, just don't want to pay the Hardinge price, but expect the same machine. Welcome to the real world, Clark. Some can, some can't. You fall in the latter group. |
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"Bugs" wrote in message oups.com... snip---- If you have the room, look at buying a larger, older lathe for a fraction of the cost. It will make little parts fine, and also bigger parts, which you will inevitably get into as you gain experience. Bad advice if he intends to do small work. Yes, large machines can do small work, but have you tried drilling a #60 hole in steel @ 500 RPM? Have you turned a ¼" shaft on a 20" lathe? Need I say more? Try to size your machine to the work you expect to do. Regardless of the size you buy, it will never be able to handle all the projects that come along. Best advice is to buy the machine that fits best the things you intend to do so they run well. Harold |
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"Greybeard" wrote in message ... snip-- Nice post, Greybeard! Harold |
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For a concise intro to bench and machine metalwork, there's a zipped
file he http://tinyurl.com/5x8kx Jordan Snyper1982 wrote: some good reading material is on using a lathe. |
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"larry g" wrote in Be aware that your only looking for your FIRST lathe. It will be a training tool and allow you to figure out what you really need to accomplish what you want. Are you a capable mechanic who can deal with keeping an older machine tuned up and running. Do you keep you car repaired and going , or just drop it off at the dealer to be fixed. I don't ask that to be critical, just be honest with yourself about the abilities you have and what you are willing to do. I have discovered that I enjoy rebuilding old lathes as much as I like making chips. My 9" logan has been very useful in rebuilding an AA and an Atlas so far. If I were starting from scratch, and had not run across the Logan at a bargain price, I think I'd buy a 7X for a first lathe. 95% of what I have used my Logan for could have been done on a 7x10, they are almost portable, and parts & accessories are dirt cheap. Besides, there are so many well-documented mods and fixes on the net that you could entertain yourself for months just doing those. -- Rex Burkheimer WM Automotive Warehouse Fort Worth TX |
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Sorry for taking so long to reply. I am located in central Ca, near
Stockton. When I know nothing about metal working, so it seems like a small project to me. Mostly it will be taking something like 3" dia. aluminum and... i don't kno any of the terms used in this, and its so frustrating, but cutting some of the metal off the lenght of it, so it has a 3" dia. base, and like 3/4" point coming off it. Man I hate being new to something, but I am really glad you people are so helpful. I really appreciate it. As for upkeep, yes I am fully confident I can keep my lathe well taken care of. I try to do all my repairs on my car myself. only time I ever take it to a shop is when i need some specialty tool that would cost far to much to be a viable option for me to buy, something like a tire machine, stuff like that. Other than that, I am not afraid to rip it apart and fix it myself. But 3" dia. stock is a must, possibly 4". Shoot, just let me link you guys to some of the stuff I will be building. http://www.wolterpyrotools.com/pyrot...ckettools.html So now that you have a good idea, you can help me out better, i figure the Jet should suffice for all that, and i really have no clue where to look for use machinerey. Thanks guys, you are much more helpful than some of the other places I visit. |
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I also found this site http://www.finelinehair.com/home/index.htm
i was wondering what the these ratings mean: Jet change gears: 28t, 30t, 36t, 42t, 45t, 60t & 80t. Is that how many teeth are on each gear? Thanks again, you guys are awesome. |
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Any answers?
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Sorry for taking so long to reply. I am located in central Ca, near
Stockton. When I know nothing about metal working, so it seems like a small project to me. Mostly it will be taking something like 3" dia. aluminum and... i don't kno any of the terms used in this, and its so frustrating, but cutting some of the metal off the lenght of it, so it has a 3" dia. base, and like 3/4" point coming off it. Man I hate being new to something, but I am really glad you people are so helpful. I really appreciate it. As for upkeep, yes I am fully confident I can keep my lathe well taken care of. I try to do all my repairs on my car myself. only time I ever take it to a shop is when i need some specialty tool that would cost far to much to be a viable option for me to buy, something like a tire machine, stuff like that. Other than that, I am not afraid to rip it apart and fix it myself. But 3" dia. stock is a must, possibly 4". Shoot, just let me link you guys to some of the stuff I will be building. http://www.wolterpyrotools.com/pyrot...ckettools.html So now that you have a good idea, you can help me out better, i figure the Jet should suffice for all that, and i really have no clue where to look for use machinerey. Thanks guys, you are much more helpful than some of the other places I visit. Randy Replogle wrote: "Snyper1982" wrote in message oups.com... Ok, I am sure you guys get asked these questions a lot, so i apologize in advance. I am totaly and completely new to metal working. I am mostly curious about making little parts with a lathe. I just dont know what a good lathe is, and what some good reading material is on using a lathe. What are some good brands of lathe? are Jets good, cause i was looking around a bit and i saw a jet that was about $1,000 brand new. Well thanks for reading, hope to get some good answers from you guys, as id like to get into metal working. Will this be for personal hobby work? How big (diameter) parts will you need to make? Tell what you want to accomplish and you'll get lots of ideas here. Randy |
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On 30 Dec 2004 14:55:58 -0800, "Snyper1982"
wrote: Shoot, just let me link you guys to some of the stuff I will be building. http://www.wolterpyrotools.com/pyrot...ckettools.html Ramming black powder?????????????? 8000 PSI???????? Ok... NIMBY. Gunner "War is an ugly thing, but not the ugliest of things. The decayed and degraded state of moral and patriotic feeling which thinks that nothing is worth war is much worse. The person who has nothing for which he is willing to fight, nothing which is more important than his own personal safety, is a miserable creature and has no chance of being free unless made and kept so by the exertions of better men than himself." - John Stewart Mill |
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It is for making rockets. Not making bombs or anything else. It is not
NORMAL grade BP, if you use regular BP, it will burn right through your rocket casing. LOL. I know it sounds crazy, but I love rockets and such. The most dangerous one on there is the whitsle rocket(which i dont plan on making) because it uses a formula which is much more sensitive to friction. But anywho. Now that you guys have an idea, what kind of lathe do you think i would need to make things such as that? I will be working with 3" aluminum. |
#21
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In article .com,
Snyper1982 wrote: I also found this site http://www.finelinehair.com/home/index.htm i was wondering what the these ratings mean: Jet change gears: 28t, 30t, 36t, 42t, 45t, 60t & 80t. Is that how many teeth are on each gear? Yes. What threads that cut will be determined by varous other featues in the threading gear train. Enjoy, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
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Most any lathe will do what you need, depending on the level of precision
and the length of the work. The Asian minilathes start at 7" (diameter of work) X 10" (effective max length of work, "between centers"). If your stuff is well within this range it's not a bad start for $400 + shipping. Look at the Cummins, which looks like the best deal currently. If you want to go a step bigger, look for a 9" Logan, Wards, or Southbend. These start at about 17" work length and go to about 30". The most common small lathes are in the 10" range. There are a large variety out there. Next round is 11", 12". All these start in the 24" work length and go to about 36" length. If you need to thread often, look for one with a quick-change gearbox. I have a Logan 9x17 w/QC that would be perfect for what you want. If you could find one of those at a good price you will be in good shape. Avoid the 9x20 Asian lathes, as these have some unique issues. However, if you find one at a "giveaway" price, and don't mind doing some tuning, go for it. Plenty of online help for almost anything you run across. Most any of the above can be found under $1000 in good shape. If you want "Like new", then double that. Remember that tooling for any of them will easily equal the value of the machine, so consider that when you shop. Take a look at ebay listings for examples of what comes with a typical lathe. Also a good approximation of machine values. Be sure to read the articles on Merimac Machinery's page, titled (approximately) "Tips on Buying a USed Lathe" and "In Praise of Klunkers". Looks like a fun hobby. Be careful, or you may find out the machining overtakes your other hobby in terms of interest. I'm there now, with 3 nice race cars sitting idle (and needing prep) while I tinker with 50-year-old machine tools Have fun. Rex B Fort Worth "Snyper1982" wrote in message ups.com... It is for making rockets. Not making bombs or anything else. It is not NORMAL grade BP, if you use regular BP, it will burn right through your rocket casing. LOL. I know it sounds crazy, but I love rockets and such. The most dangerous one on there is the whitsle rocket(which i dont plan on making) because it uses a formula which is much more sensitive to friction. But anywho. Now that you guys have an idea, what kind of lathe do you think i would need to make things such as that? I will be working with 3" aluminum. |
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In article ,
Rex B wrote: Most any lathe will do what you need, depending on the level of precision and the length of the work. The Asian minilathes start at 7" (diameter of work) X 10" (effective max length of work, "between centers"). If your stuff is well within this range it's not a bad start for $400 + shipping. One consideration is that the swing ratings are for fairly short workpieces. There is a separate rating for what it can handle over the cross slide, and you may need to use that rating depending on what you are doing. Consider that you don't want more than four times the diameter extending out of the chuck without a live center supporting the free end, and a lot less when you have something so large in diameter that it can't be passed through the hole in the chuck so the whole length of the jaws can be used on it. Use reversed jaws to hold a larger diameter piece, and you really want to keep it short if unsupported. On my 12x24" Clausing, turning 6" diameter steel in reversed chuck jaws can get exciting with only 6" length free. For the Harbor Freight version of the 7x10 import lathe, the following are part of the specs; # Distance between centers: 10'' # Swing over bed 7" # Swing over saddle: 3.9" # Spindle bo 3/4" The "Swing over saddle" is what I was referring to as "swing over cross-slide". So -- with that one, you could not handle long workpieces the full 4" diameter which you have suggested in some of your earlier articles, though the 3" should be doable. And you will be spending a lot of time doing this, much more than using a heavier machine. I could consider a 9" to be the minimum, and a 12" to be a quite nice choice. [ ... ] If you need to thread often, look for one with a quick-change gearbox. Amen! Having a quick-change gearbox makes it more likely that you will also take the time to select a feed and speed which is appropriate to your workpiece material and size. Otherwise, the temptation to just leave the gears set up as they were can be very strong, especially when the gears have gotten coated with well-used lube, and you are cutting just before a meal or sometime else when you want to clean up quickly. [ ... ] Most any of the above can be found under $1000 in good shape. If you want "Like new", then double that. Remember that tooling for any of them will easily equal the value of the machine, so consider that when you shop. Take a look at ebay listings for examples of what comes with a typical lathe. Also a good approximation of machine values. Look at what prices they *close* at. And note what happens when someone starts at too high a price. It is likely to not sell at all. Be sure to read the articles on Merimac Machinery's page, titled (approximately) "Tips on Buying a USed Lathe" and "In Praise of Klunkers". Does he still have the page up? I understand that he stepped out of the machine selling as a full-time job, and went to sea so he could earn a serious living. Looks like a fun hobby. Be careful, or you may find out the machining overtakes your other hobby in terms of interest. Amen! Good Luck (and be careful, considering what you will be doing). DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
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