In article ,
Rex B wrote:
Most any lathe will do what you need, depending on the level of precision
and the length of the work. The Asian minilathes start at 7" (diameter of
work) X 10" (effective max length of work, "between centers"). If your
stuff is well within this range it's not a bad start for $400 + shipping.

One consideration is that the swing ratings are for fairly short
workpieces. There is a separate rating for what it can handle over the
cross slide, and you may need to use that rating depending on what
you are doing. Consider that you don't want more than four times the
diameter extending out of the chuck without a live center supporting the
free end, and a lot less when you have something so large in diameter
that it can't be passed through the hole in the chuck so the whole
length of the jaws can be used on it. Use reversed jaws to hold a
larger diameter piece, and you really want to keep it short if
unsupported. On my 12x24" Clausing, turning 6" diameter steel in
reversed chuck jaws can get exciting with only 6" length free.

For the Harbor Freight version of the 7x10 import lathe, the
following are part of the specs;

# Distance between centers: 10''
# Swing over bed 7"
# Swing over saddle: 3.9"
# Spindle bo 3/4"

The "Swing over saddle" is what I was referring to as "swing over
cross-slide". So -- with that one, you could not handle long workpieces
the full 4" diameter which you have suggested in some of your earlier
articles, though the 3" should be doable.

And you will be spending a lot of time doing this, much more
than using a heavier machine. I could consider a 9" to be the minimum,
and a 12" to be a quite nice choice.

[ ... ]

If you need to thread often, look for one with a quick-change gearbox.

Amen! Having a quick-change gearbox makes it more likely that
you will also take the time to select a feed and speed which is
appropriate to your workpiece material and size. Otherwise, the
temptation to just leave the gears set up as they were can be very
strong, especially when the gears have gotten coated with well-used
lube, and you are cutting just before a meal or sometime else when you
want to clean up quickly.

[ ... ]

Most any of the above can be found under $1000 in good shape. If you want
"Like new", then double that. Remember that tooling for any of them will
easily equal the value of the machine, so consider that when you shop. Take
a look at ebay listings for examples of what comes with a typical lathe.
Also a good approximation of machine values.

Look at what prices they *close* at. And note what happens when
someone starts at too high a price. It is likely to not sell at all.

Be sure to read the articles on Merimac Machinery's page, titled
(approximately) "Tips on Buying a USed Lathe" and "In Praise of Klunkers".

Does he still have the page up? I understand that he stepped
out of the machine selling as a full-time job, and went to sea so he
could earn a serious living.

Looks like a fun hobby. Be careful, or you may find out the machining
overtakes your other hobby in terms of interest.

Amen!

Good Luck (and be careful, considering what you will be doing).
DoN.

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