Ignoramus29457 wrote:

This post is inspired by the discussion of "huge milling machines for
sale".

I find it that owning, minimally repairing or reselling various
moderately heavy machinery is fun and profitable. By heavy I mean
stuff under a ton, obviously not a lot by many people's standards, but
quite a bit for a homeowner like myself. Things such as generators and
compressors, that sort of thing.

So far, I used a chain hoist depicted he

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/ChainHoist

and various wooden platforms on casters. I have a nice concrete
garage, and a concrete walkway to the concrete patio in the yard. So,
this equipment can be moved. There is about 2" "step" at the garage
entrance. I am looking for practical, preferably non-powered,
suggestions and experiences how you people move heavy things about.

Thanks

i


My collection of rigging related equipment in no particular order:

4,000# Engine hoist
3,000# Yale stand-up riding electric forklift
5,000# Pallet jack
7,000# Hi-Lift 48" mechanical jack
4t Porta-power hydraulic kit
4,000# 20' lift manual chain hoist
Assorted lifting slings (proper rated ones)
A pile of 5/16 "System 7" chains with grab hooks, 5,400# SWL
Assorted 2x and 4x cribbing material
A quality rubber padded moving dolly ~800# cap.

Oh yea, and a Deere 500C back hoe, 5,000# on the loader bucket and
2,000# on the back hoe boom.

This list may sound expensive, but with the exception of the back hoe
each item was $300 or less.

The big safety rules are (all equally important):

- Don't lift the load any higher than necessary
- Don't get between the load and the ground OR anything it could shift
or tip against
- If something starts to slip RUN THE OTHER WAY! Do not ever attempt to
catch it
- Watch the CG of the load
- Be sure of your lift points
- Use quality chains and/or slings for lifting (cargo straps are good
for stabilizing, not lifting)
- Inspect all equipment before use, particularly web slings which are
prone to cuts

So far I haven't found anything I couldn't move and I'm also still alive


Pete C.

Clif Holland wrote:

You would be surprised what can be moved by an engine hoist.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...&R= 200305213


I'm on my 3rd 2-ton import engine hoist. My current one is just like the one
you reference. It works great and has a small footprint but it is suboptimal
in one way -- there isn't very much clearance between the legs. My old one
could easily straddle a Bridgeport base but my new one can barely work. I'm
going to make my own pretty soon but then I've been saying that for years :-)

GWE

Can anyone recommend a hoist of this type that will straddle a Bridgeport or
similar machine? Thanks!

-Jon

"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
Clif Holland wrote:

You would be surprised what can be moved by an engine hoist.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...&R= 200305213


I'm on my 3rd 2-ton import engine hoist. My current one is just like the
one
you reference. It works great and has a small footprint but it is
suboptimal
in one way -- there isn't very much clearance between the legs. My old one
could easily straddle a Bridgeport base but my new one can barely work.
I'm
going to make my own pretty soon but then I've been saying that for years
:-)

GWE

Ignoramus29457 wrote:


and various wooden platforms on casters. I have a nice concrete
garage, and a concrete walkway to the concrete patio in the yard. So,
this equipment can be moved. There is about 2" "step" at the garage
entrance. I am looking for practical, preferably non-powered,
suggestions and experiences how you people move heavy things about.


For final tweaking the location of something heavy, an assortment of
steel lever bars is nice if you need to shift something just an inch or
so, or even a few feet for lack of a better method. Blocks of wood in
various sizes come in handy for fulcrums, as do bits and pieces of dense
rubber padding.

I like the "three pipe method" for rolling something heavy along a flat
floor, if the base allows it.

If you will be hauling on the road much, chain binders are a must.

You drive your vehicle into the garage over a 2" step?

Ken Grunke


----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000 Newsgroups
---= East/West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---


-----------== Posted via Newsfeed.Com - Uncensored Usenet News ==----------
http://www.newsfeed.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----= Over 100,000 Newsgroups - Unlimited Fast Downloads - 19 Servers =-----

Ken Grunke wrote:

Ignoramus29457 wrote:


and various wooden platforms on casters. I have a nice concrete
garage, and a concrete walkway to the concrete patio in the yard. So,
this equipment can be moved. There is about 2" "step" at the garage
entrance. I am looking for practical, preferably non-powered,
suggestions and experiences how you people move heavy things about.


For final tweaking the location of something heavy, an assortment of
steel lever bars is nice if you need to shift something just an inch or
so, or even a few feet for lack of a better method. Blocks of wood in
various sizes come in handy for fulcrums, as do bits and pieces of dense
rubber padding.

I like the "three pipe method" for rolling something heavy along a flat
floor, if the base allows it.

If you will be hauling on the road much, chain binders are a must.

You drive your vehicle into the garage over a 2" step?

Ken Grunke

----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000 Newsgroups
---= East/West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---

-----------== Posted via Newsfeed.Com - Uncensored Usenet News ==----------
http://www.newsfeed.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----= Over 100,000 Newsgroups - Unlimited Fast Downloads - 19 Servers =-----


I find that the Porto-power hydraulic kit is very useful for the
positioning, especially since you can set the ram on one side and bring
the pump to the other side where you can see your clearances.

I didn't think to mention the pry bars and roller pipes since those
seemed fairly obvious. I also find the 4x8x16 solid concrete blocks are
very handy.

I moved a 10,000# 40' cargo container over rough terrain using only a
hi-lift jack, chains and some freshly cut logs.

Pete C.

Ignoramus29457 wrote:

Thanks for the tips. Congratulations on being still alive, and
presumably having all fingers, toes etc.

i

On Tue, 21 Dec 2004 22:47:50 GMT, Pete C. wrote:
Ignoramus29457 wrote:

This post is inspired by the discussion of "huge milling machines for
sale".

I find it that owning, minimally repairing or reselling various
moderately heavy machinery is fun and profitable. By heavy I mean
stuff under a ton, obviously not a lot by many people's standards, but
quite a bit for a homeowner like myself. Things such as generators and
compressors, that sort of thing.

So far, I used a chain hoist depicted he

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/ChainHoist

and various wooden platforms on casters. I have a nice concrete
garage, and a concrete walkway to the concrete patio in the yard. So,
this equipment can be moved. There is about 2" "step" at the garage
entrance. I am looking for practical, preferably non-powered,
suggestions and experiences how you people move heavy things about.

Thanks

i


My collection of rigging related equipment in no particular order:

4,000# Engine hoist
3,000# Yale stand-up riding electric forklift
5,000# Pallet jack
7,000# Hi-Lift 48" mechanical jack
4t Porta-power hydraulic kit
4,000# 20' lift manual chain hoist
Assorted lifting slings (proper rated ones)
A pile of 5/16 "System 7" chains with grab hooks, 5,400# SWL
Assorted 2x and 4x cribbing material
A quality rubber padded moving dolly ~800# cap.

Oh yea, and a Deere 500C back hoe, 5,000# on the loader bucket and
2,000# on the back hoe boom.

This list may sound expensive, but with the exception of the back hoe
each item was $300 or less.

The big safety rules are (all equally important):

- Don't lift the load any higher than necessary
- Don't get between the load and the ground OR anything it could shift
or tip against
- If something starts to slip RUN THE OTHER WAY! Do not ever attempt to
catch it
- Watch the CG of the load
- Be sure of your lift points
- Use quality chains and/or slings for lifting (cargo straps are good
for stabilizing, not lifting)
- Inspect all equipment before use, particularly web slings which are
prone to cuts

So far I haven't found anything I couldn't move and I'm also still alive


Pete C.

--


Yep, all still there. Amazingly enough I haven't broken anything yet
either. Plenty of bumps and bruised (and scrapes, cuts, etc), but
nothing broken.

Pete C.

Mine is from Pep Boys (Arcan) and yes it will lift that much. You will
find that it certainly doesn't "glide" when you roll it with that much
weight but it will do it. I've used it to lift the 1,571# battery for
the forklift into the back of my truck.

The booms on these usually have boom positions with ratings of 1,000#,
2,000#, 3,000# and 4,000# so you won't be lifting 2t at full extension.

Pete C.


Ignoramus29457 wrote:

Question. Are these 2 ton engine hoists from Harbor Freight really
able to lift two tons, no kidding?

i

On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 02:48:39 GMT, Pete C. wrote:
Ken Grunke wrote:

Ignoramus29457 wrote:


and various wooden platforms on casters. I have a nice concrete
garage, and a concrete walkway to the concrete patio in the yard. So,
this equipment can be moved. There is about 2" "step" at the garage
entrance. I am looking for practical, preferably non-powered,
suggestions and experiences how you people move heavy things about.


For final tweaking the location of something heavy, an assortment of
steel lever bars is nice if you need to shift something just an inch or
so, or even a few feet for lack of a better method. Blocks of wood in
various sizes come in handy for fulcrums, as do bits and pieces of dense
rubber padding.

I like the "three pipe method" for rolling something heavy along a flat
floor, if the base allows it.

If you will be hauling on the road much, chain binders are a must.

You drive your vehicle into the garage over a 2" step?

Ken Grunke

http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000 Newsgroups

http://www.newsfeed.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!


I find that the Porto-power hydraulic kit is very useful for the
positioning, especially since you can set the ram on one side and bring
the pump to the other side where you can see your clearances.

I didn't think to mention the pry bars and roller pipes since those
seemed fairly obvious. I also find the 4x8x16 solid concrete blocks are
very handy.

I moved a 10,000# 40' cargo container over rough terrain using only a
hi-lift jack, chains and some freshly cut logs.

Pete C.

--

Ignoramus29457 wrote:
Question. Are these 2 ton engine hoists from Harbor Freight really
able to lift two tons, no kidding?

Yes, no kidding. With a huge caveat. You must have all the legs fully
extended and bolted tightly, you must have the hook centered over the
load, you must have the overhead jib in the 2ton position. Then it will
lift, yes. Roll, not really. Those hoists will lift 2 tons but will only
roll about 2000 pounds without really hurting the casters. On my last
hoist I finally wondered why the damn thing didn't roll like it used
to, took it apart and discovered 4 bent axles. No *way* were those
casters rated for 1000 pounds. I redid them and it worked much better.

When I make my own shop crane it will have most serious wheels. The
older I get the more I spend on casters.

Grant

"The older I get the more I spend on casters."

*Laughter*

You and me both Grant.

When I build ANYTHING, I make sure the casters I use have between 2-3x
safety factors built in.

I have seen the result of cheap casters failing and they have to fail
only once under load to teach you the hard lesson.

TMT

"The older I get the more I spend on casters."

*Laughter*

You and me both Grant.

When I build ANYTHING, I make sure the casters I use have between 2-3x
safety factors built in.

I have seen the result of cheap casters failing and they have to fail
only once under load to teach you the hard lesson.

TMT

On 22 Dec 2004 11:50:45 GMT, Ignoramus31279
calmly ranted:

On Tue, 21 Dec 2004 22:11:29 -0800, Grant Erwin wrote:
Ignoramus29457 wrote:
Question. Are these 2 ton engine hoists from Harbor Freight really
able to lift two tons, no kidding?

Yes, no kidding. With a huge caveat. You must have all the legs fully
extended and bolted tightly, you must have the hook centered over the
load, you must have the overhead jib in the 2ton position. Then it will
lift, yes. Roll, not really. Those hoists will lift 2 tons but will only
roll about 2000 pounds without really hurting the casters. On my last
hoist I finally wondered why the damn thing didn't roll like it used
to, took it apart and discovered 4 bent axles. No *way* were those
casters rated for 1000 pounds. I redid them and it worked much better.

Thanks.

When I make my own shop crane it will have most serious wheels. The
older I get the more I spend on casters.

Grok that. Grant goes with more money, I go with larger wheel
diameter. But I have lighter-weight needs and the 5" Chiwanese
rubber-wrapped cast iron jobbers work well for me. HF gets $3.99
for the swivel-style on sale. I wouldn't even THINK of using them
for anything heavy.


Where do you buy heavy duty casters?

My buddy Terry gets his at Darnell-Rose: http://www.casters.com/
I've seen their stuff at shows and it's very well made.


--------------------------------------------------------
Murphy was an Optimist
----------------------------
http://diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development

Grant Erwin wrote in
:

... On my last
hoist I finally wondered why the damn thing didn't roll like it used
to, took it apart and discovered 4 bent axles. No *way* were those
casters rated for 1000 pounds. I redid them and it worked much better.

When I make my own shop crane it will have most serious wheels. The
older I get the more I spend on casters.

Grant

On the engine hoists I have used the load was not centered between the
pairs of wheels, so some of them see more than 1/4 of the load (plus their
share of the weight of the hoist itself). If I built one I'd be inclined to
assume the wheels have to take 1/2 the rated load. If it has to roll over
anything rougher than a smooth concrete shop floor make some allowance for
impact loading as it goes over the bumps... not that I want to haul a
Bridgeport over an uneven surface if I can avoid it.

Rob