Basically a sprocket wheel without teeth--like this:

http://www.token.crwoodturner.com/ecc/hub.gif

4" dia., 3/16" to 3/8" thick
Hub dia. 1 1/4" to 1 3/4"
1/2" bore (or smaller, I can bore it out).
Hub length 1" to 2".
Preferrably mild steel or *cast iron*, but aluminum will work.

This is for a woodturner's eccentric chuck attachment I designed--

http://www.token.crwoodturner.com/ecc/index.shtml

Now some of my woodturning buddies want one made up.

I'm hoping somebody will have a small pile of these in their scrap bin,
I could use about a dozen perhaps more. But if you have just one, or 5,
let me know. I can turn down an oversize piece, but will need the 1/2" bore.

I could use a sprocket wheel or gear and machine it down for lack of
anything else.

I'd consider welded construction if the weld were on the flat side and
didn't stick out, or a very nice looking full-circle weld at the joint
between the hub and plate.

Be nice with the price please, I have to make a little money on this.
Thanks,

Ken Grunke
http://www.token.crwoodturner.com/shop/


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Sears sells 4" faceplates for their woodturning lathe that come pretty
close to what you describe. The hubs are for a threaded spindle, 3/4-16
as I recall.

--
Fred R
________________
Drop TROU to email.

Hey, you are just down the road(and across the river) from me! Went to
your website and noticed the Coulee region reference. I work in
Winona.

In any case, if you have a means to do so, the easiest is probably
going to be going down to Fleet Farm and getting some gear blanks.

JW

On Sat, 18 Dec 2004 09:55:12 -0600, Ken Grunke
wrote:

Basically a sprocket wheel without teeth--like this:

http://www.token.crwoodturner.com/ecc/hub.gif

4" dia., 3/16" to 3/8" thick
Hub dia. 1 1/4" to 1 3/4"
1/2" bore (or smaller, I can bore it out).
Hub length 1" to 2".
Preferrably mild steel or *cast iron*, but aluminum will work.

This is for a woodturner's eccentric chuck attachment I designed--

Go cart disk brake or the friction drive disk from an MTD snowblower
(or Ariens) with variable speed.

http://www.token.crwoodturner.com/ecc/index.shtml

Now some of my woodturning buddies want one made up.

I'm hoping somebody will have a small pile of these in their scrap bin,
I could use about a dozen perhaps more. But if you have just one, or 5,
let me know. I can turn down an oversize piece, but will need the 1/2" bore.

I could use a sprocket wheel or gear and machine it down for lack of
anything else.

I'd consider welded construction if the weld were on the flat side and
didn't stick out, or a very nice looking full-circle weld at the joint
between the hub and plate.

Be nice with the price please, I have to make a little money on this.
Thanks,

Ken Grunke
http://www.token.crwoodturner.com/shop/


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Take a look at M S C catalog. They have all sizes of hand wheels. Both cast
iron and aluminum.
Walt
wrote in message
...
On Sat, 18 Dec 2004 09:55:12 -0600, Ken Grunke
wrote:

Basically a sprocket wheel without teeth--like this:

http://www.token.crwoodturner.com/ecc/hub.gif

4" dia., 3/16" to 3/8" thick
Hub dia. 1 1/4" to 1 3/4"
1/2" bore (or smaller, I can bore it out).
Hub length 1" to 2".
Preferrably mild steel or *cast iron*, but aluminum will work.

This is for a woodturner's eccentric chuck attachment I designed--

Go cart disk brake or the friction drive disk from an MTD snowblower
(or Ariens) with variable speed.

http://www.token.crwoodturner.com/ecc/index.shtml

Now some of my woodturning buddies want one made up.

I'm hoping somebody will have a small pile of these in their scrap bin,
I could use about a dozen perhaps more. But if you have just one, or 5,
let me know. I can turn down an oversize piece, but will need the 1/2"
bore.

I could use a sprocket wheel or gear and machine it down for lack of
anything else.

I'd consider welded construction if the weld were on the flat side and
didn't stick out, or a very nice looking full-circle weld at the joint
between the hub and plate.

Be nice with the price please, I have to make a little money on this.
Thanks,

Ken Grunke
http://www.token.crwoodturner.com/shop/


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Ken Grunke wrote:

Basically a sprocket wheel without teeth--like this:

http://www.token.crwoodturner.com/ecc/hub.gif

4" dia., 3/16" to 3/8" thick
Hub dia. 1 1/4" to 1 3/4"
1/2" bore (or smaller, I can bore it out).
Hub length 1" to 2".
Preferrably mild steel or *cast iron*, but aluminum will work.

This is for a woodturner's eccentric chuck attachment I designed--

http://www.token.crwoodturner.com/ecc/index.shtml

Now some of my woodturning buddies want one made up.

I'm hoping somebody will have a small pile of these in their scrap bin,
I could use about a dozen perhaps more. But if you have just one, or 5,
let me know. I can turn down an oversize piece, but will need the 1/2"
bore.

I could use a sprocket wheel or gear and machine it down for lack of
anything else.

I'd consider welded construction if the weld were on the flat side and
didn't stick out, or a very nice looking full-circle weld at the joint
between the hub and plate.

Be nice with the price please, I have to make a little money on this.
Thanks,

Ken Grunke
http://www.token.crwoodturner.com/shop/


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Most outside country suppliers of metal and wood lathes have faceplates
that can be modified as you need. Sounds like you can turn and work
the metal.

Martin

--
Martin Eastburn, Barbara Eastburn
@ home at Lion's Lair with our computer
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder

Martin H. Eastburn wrote:

Most outside country suppliers of metal and wood lathes have faceplates
that can be modified as you need. Sounds like you can turn and work
the metal.

Martin


Well, the Shopsmith faceplate or it's equivalent is the most likely
candidate but any faceplate has a premium price which I don't need to
pay. I'm a woodturner primarily so if I bought a faceplate I'd want to
use it as such ;-)

I even have the foundry equipment (self-fabricated and a bit crude) to
do aluminum castings but only an unheated garage to do it in, and it's
too frickin' cold to be a sand crab right now--our mid-day highs have
been in the teens! (F)

I'm hoping a foundry hobbiest will do a small batch for me and am in
touch with one guy but I probably shouldn't bother him 'til after the
holidays.

Ken Grunke


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I don't mean a finished faceplate. I mean a mounting plate for a chuck.
It is almost like a faceplate - or is one without a hole pattern or scribes...
unfinished.



Ken Grunke wrote:

Martin H. Eastburn wrote:

Most outside country suppliers of metal and wood lathes have faceplates
that can be modified as you need. Sounds like you can turn and work
the metal.

Martin


Well, the Shopsmith faceplate or it's equivalent is the most likely
candidate but any faceplate has a premium price which I don't need to
pay. I'm a woodturner primarily so if I bought a faceplate I'd want to
use it as such ;-)

I even have the foundry equipment (self-fabricated and a bit crude) to
do aluminum castings but only an unheated garage to do it in, and it's
too frickin' cold to be a sand crab right now--our mid-day highs have
been in the teens! (F)

I'm hoping a foundry hobbiest will do a small batch for me and am in
touch with one guy but I probably shouldn't bother him 'til after the
holidays.

Ken Grunke


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--
Martin Eastburn, Barbara Eastburn
@ home at Lion's Lair with our computer
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder

I don't mean a finished faceplate. I mean a mounting plate for a
chuck. It is almost like a faceplate - or is one without a hole
pattern or scribes... unfinished.

AKA "Backplate".
--Glenn Lyford

Basically a sprocket wheel without teeth--like this:

http://www.token.crwoodturner.com/ecc/hub.gif
Why not turn these from 4" steel bar stock?


Ron Thompson
On the Beautiful Florida Space Coast, right beside the Kennedy Space Center, USA

http://www.plansandprojects.com

The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is
to fill the world with fools.
--Herbert Spencer, English Philosopher (1820-1903)

Ron Thompson wrote:
Basically a sprocket wheel without teeth--like this:

http://www.token.crwoodturner.com/ecc/hub.gif

Why not turn these from 4" steel bar stock?


I seriously considered doing that from steel or aluminum and it wouldn't
be a problem with just one or two--but I want to make a batch of 10-20
or more, and that would be too much work and a LOT of swarf. I'd want a
1 1/2" hub, for easy turning access at the headstock end of the work.

I'm going to have made or make myself aluminum castings.
Thanks,

Ken Grunke


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I seriously considered doing that from steel or aluminum and it
wouldn't be a problem with just one or two--but I want to make a batch
of 10-20 or more, and that would be too much work and a LOT of swarf.
I'd want a 1 1/2" hub, for easy turning access at the headstock end of
the work.

How about using weldable sprocket hubs and 1/4" plate?
--Glenn Lyford

Ken Grunke wrote:

Ron Thompson wrote:

Basically a sprocket wheel without teeth--like this:

http://www.token.crwoodturner.com/ecc/hub.gif


Why not turn these from 4" steel bar stock?


I seriously considered doing that from steel or aluminum and it wouldn't
be a problem with just one or two--but I want to make a batch of 10-20
or more, and that would be too much work and a LOT of swarf. I'd want a
1 1/2" hub, for easy turning access at the headstock end of the work.

I'm going to have made or make myself aluminum castings.
Thanks,

Ken Grunke


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The issue of Aluminum casting -
what speed max can it take before frags are flying ?
Can you be sure to verify no internal voids ?

If turned, the steel is quality to beginning. Do nose to nose, base to base.
Then it is much faster.

I'd rather have swarf in the lathe than swarf all over the shop and myself or others.

Martin

--
Martin Eastburn, Barbara Eastburn
@ home at Lion's Lair with our computer
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder

just a test of munging my email.