In article
,
Johan wrote:

The instructions said to use Windows 98 or better, so I installed RedHat.


Went all the way to the Dark Side. Bought a Mac and OS X (aka BSD Unix)
The RH9 box is now a file server and firewall and I dump^H^H^H^H gave
the XP Pro box to my wife. (Is that grounds for divorce anywhere?
Emotional abuse, maybe?)

To mac users, Windows is the dark side.

--
Free men own guns, slaves don't
www.geocities.com/CapitolHill/5357/

In article ,
Nick Hull wrote:

In article
,
Johan wrote:

The instructions said to use Windows 98 or better, so I installed RedHat.


Went all the way to the Dark Side. Bought a Mac and OS X (aka BSD Unix)
The RH9 box is now a file server and firewall and I dump^H^H^H^H gave
the XP Pro box to my wife. (Is that grounds for divorce anywhere?
Emotional abuse, maybe?)

To mac users, Windows is the dark side.

Yowza! It's looking lighter and lighter around here.

On 18 Nov 2004 13:37:10 -0800, (Alan Horowitz)
wrote:

Much of my work involves rusted hardware which can only be accessed
from below... can ultra-low-surface-tension penetraating oils, used
to disassemble rusted-together bolts/nuts/etc, be gelled? Using the
liquid (which does work great) straight out of the bottle, ends up
with virtually of all of it on the floor!


What I usually do is heat one of the parts a bit with a propane torch
(be careful and watch for ignitable)

Then cool the part with penetrating oil. Its a nasty method (lots of
bad fumes) but it works for me pretty well. Seems to suck the oil
right where it needs to go.

You don't want it gelled.... Your useing to much to fast...

Eric R Snow wrote in message . ..
It may be that gelling the oil will prevent it from wicking into the
joint. But if enough of the fastener is protruding then maybe a small
piece of stiff foam would do. Just push onto the bolt and saturate.

Until it disappears from the solvent... Idunno about Kroil, et al. but
some of the homebrew substitute mixtures have stuff that eats styrene
for breakfast (laquer thinner for instance).

Tim (posting from Google 'cuz Charter is bumfocked the last few days)

Alan Horowitz wrote:

Much of my work involves rusted hardware which can only be accessed
from below...

LLoyd's Mov-It (sp?) makes a penetraing oil that foams as it comes out
of the aerosol can. This keeps it in place long enough. I've found it
to be very effective.

Ted

Much of my work involves rusted hardware which can only be accessed
from below... can ultra-low-surface-tension penetraating oils, used
to disassemble rusted-together bolts/nuts/etc, be gelled? Using the
liquid (which does work great) straight out of the bottle, ends up
with virtually of all of it on the floor!

I realize that you want oil to penetrate the threads and
not just to remove external rust, but ... when all you've
got is a hammer, everything's a nail: naval jelly is
pretty goopy and you could use it to remove the external
rust, if that'll help.

Some children's toys leave oily stains. Can you take some
Silly Putty and work some penetrating oil into it and
squeeze that onto the bolt? What about "goop" or "slime"
toys? Oil 'em up and squeeze 'em on? I've seen some molded
toys that are more gummy or jelly like than Silly Putty
that are also very greasy. Usually they're molded insects
or octopus or other critter shapes. Maybe you can find
some of those.

If the materials are different, heating or cooling may expand
or contract one or the other (different expansion coefficients)
and make it easier to unstick. Of course, you want to avoid
actually welding them together. Rapid cooling of a heated
joint might also help (propane torch it then slap it in ice).

Find some thin walled rubber or tygon tubing that fits snuggly
over the bolt or nut. Cut off a short piece, close off one end
(clamp, stopper), fill it with oil and stick it on ... and hope
the oil doesn't weaken the grip. Or, stick a short piece
of tubing over the bolt; saturate a wad of cotton or other
material and shove it up the tubing so it's jammed against
the bolt.

What about hardware solutions? There are many, depending
on what's stuck and what you can sacrifice:
- a nut splitter can crack the frozen nut off the bolt.
- there are left handed bits to use to reverse turn stripped
bolts and screws that might work on stuck bolts, too.
- drill it out completely.
- a Sawzall(R) saws all.






--
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This is a spam protected message. Please answer with reference header.
Posted via http://www.usenet-replayer.com

In article ,
Ted Edwards wrote:

Alan Horowitz wrote:

Much of my work involves rusted hardware which can only be accessed
from below...

LLoyd's Mov-It (sp?) makes a penetraing oil that foams as it comes out
of the aerosol can. This keeps it in place long enough. I've found it
to be very effective.

Ted

Thanks for posting that. Is Lloyd's readily available, say, at a
particular supplier or two? I haven't seen it around here yet. (Akron OH
area)

That could come in very handy.

John

"Alan Horowitz" wrote in message
om...
Much of my work involves rusted hardware which can only be accessed
from below... can ultra-low-surface-tension penetraating oils, used
to disassemble rusted-together bolts/nuts/etc, be gelled? Using the
liquid (which does work great) straight out of the bottle, ends up
with virtually of all of it on the floor!

Petrolium gelly?

No. I think i've found an easier way. Take your rusted items and wrap them
in paper towels. Spray down the towels real good with your de-ruster oil and
then take those bundles and put them in a plastic grocery bag. Place the bag
in a bucket.

Thats what I'm trying now..

-Scott

On Wed, 24 Nov 2004 00:46:02 GMT, "aSkeptic"
vaguely proposed a theory
.......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email


Much of my work involves rusted hardware which can only be accessed
from below...

No. I think i've found an easier way. Take your rusted items and wrap them
in paper towels. Spray down the towels real good with your de-ruster oil and
then take those bundles and put them in a plastic grocery bag. Place the bag
in a bucket.

I think that misses the point of the problem a bit.

"Old Nick" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 24 Nov 2004 00:46:02 GMT, "aSkeptic"
vaguely proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email


Much of my work involves rusted hardware which can only be accessed
from below...

No. I think i've found an easier way. Take your rusted items and wrap them
in paper towels. Spray down the towels real good with your de-ruster oil
and
then take those bundles and put them in a plastic grocery bag. Place the
bag
in a bucket.

I think that misses the point of the problem a bit.

shoot. you're right..

the part that is rusted cannot be removed from the structure that it is
attached to

hmm..

Phosphoric acid jellys are supposed to remove rust but it inevitably leaves
a new chemical coating which might be undesireable.

Adding degreaser to petrojelly would make it runny and it'd be a jelly no
longer

Sandblasting might work better..

-Scott

On Wed, 24 Nov 2004 16:10:39 GMT, "aSkeptic"
wrote:


"Old Nick" wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 24 Nov 2004 00:46:02 GMT, "aSkeptic"
vaguely proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email


Much of my work involves rusted hardware which can only be accessed
from below...

No. I think i've found an easier way. Take your rusted items and wrap them
in paper towels. Spray down the towels real good with your de-ruster oil
and
then take those bundles and put them in a plastic grocery bag. Place the
bag
in a bucket.

I think that misses the point of the problem a bit.

shoot. you're right..

the part that is rusted cannot be removed from the structure that it is
attached to

hmm..

Phosphoric acid jellys are supposed to remove rust but it inevitably leaves
a new chemical coating which might be undesireable.

Adding degreaser to petrojelly would make it runny and it'd be a jelly no
longer

Sandblasting might work better..

-Scott


Have you tried bicycle or motorcycle chain lubricant? It goes on as a
foam and is designed to be highly penetrating.

--RC
Sleep? Isn't that a totally inadequate substitute for caffine?

Have you tried bicycle or motorcycle chain lubricant? It goes on as a
foam and is designed to be highly penetrating.

--RC

I haven't tried that. I'll keep my eye out for it. thanks

Tim (posting from Google 'cuz Charter is bumfocked the last few days)

Google groups has given me trouble lately too. I finally broke down and I'm
now using a real usenet reader. Just an email client...

-scott