I have one of the Harbor Freight 7 x 10 lathes.
I have a bicycle seat post that I want to reduce the diameter by 0.025".
The spindle head is to small to accept the post, the bed is to short to
use the tail stock.
Any clever ideas how I could use this lathe to do the job. The post is
aluminum.
I took it to a machine shop, he laughed and said, "I've already spent
more time on this than the part is worth."

Mikek

On Tue, 12 Jan 2016 15:59:08 -0600, amdx wrote:


I have one of the Harbor Freight 7 x 10 lathes.
I have a bicycle seat post that I want to reduce the diameter by 0.025".
The spindle head is to small to accept the post, the bed is to short to
use the tail stock.
Any clever ideas how I could use this lathe to do the job. The post is
aluminum.
I took it to a machine shop, he laughed and said, "I've already spent
more time on this than the part is worth."

Mikek

You need a steady rest (Google "lathe steady rest"). For a one-shot
that doesn't sound at all critical, cutting aluminum, you can make one
out of plywood that will do the job.

You may find a plan or idea for one online, or maybe someone here can
tell you how to jury-rig one.

However, if the bed is too short to use the tailstock, it raises the
question of how long this thing is and how much of it you want to turn
down. A long, thin aluminum tube is going to present a deflection
problem, in which case you may have to rig a follow rest in addition
to the steady rest. You can look that one up, too.

--
Ed Huntress

amdx wrote:

I have one of the Harbor Freight 7 x 10 lathes.
I have a bicycle seat post that I want to reduce the diameter by 0.025".
The spindle head is to small to accept the post, the bed is to short to
use the tail stock.
Any clever ideas how I could use this lathe to do the job. The post is
aluminum.
I took it to a machine shop, he laughed and said, "I've already spent
more time on this than the part is worth."

It sounds like this lathe is just the wrong tool.

Clamp the seatpost on allthread in a drill with some nuts and a washer.
Run that with the left hand with the end of the allthhread on a block of
wood. Angle grinder with flap disc in the right hand. Take passes back and
forth.

You'll be done in a few minutes for quick and dirty OD removal.

"amdx" wrote in message
...

I have one of the Harbor Freight 7 x 10 lathes.
I have a bicycle seat post that I want to reduce the diameter by 0.025".
The spindle head is to small to accept the post, the bed is to short to
use the tail stock.
Any clever ideas how I could use this lathe to do the job. The post is
aluminum.
I took it to a machine shop, he laughed and said, "I've already spent
more time on this than the part is worth."

Mikek

Get an extended bed from Little Machine Shop and turn it into a 7x14?

If you are comfortable with it you might be able to make an adjustable V
support to go on in place of your tail stock. Then turn a tapered mandrel
in the chuck, and drill and thread a hole in the middle. then gentley tap
the post onto the mandreal, run a piece of all thread thru it, and put a
washer and a nut on the end. Now adjust your V support to hold the post
straight, and turn the end that's on the mandrel with light passes until its
the correct size.

Of course then it will be weaker and might break on you moving up the
schedule for your next rectal exam.

On 1/12/2016 4:10 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Tue, 12 Jan 2016 15:59:08 -0600, amdx wrote:


I have one of the Harbor Freight 7 x 10 lathes.
I have a bicycle seat post that I want to reduce the diameter by 0.025".
The spindle head is to small to accept the post, the bed is to short to
use the tail stock.
Any clever ideas how I could use this lathe to do the job. The post is
aluminum.
I took it to a machine shop, he laughed and said, "I've already spent
more time on this than the part is worth."

Mikek

You need a steady rest (Google "lathe steady rest"). For a one-shot
that doesn't sound at all critical, cutting aluminum, you can make one
out of plywood that will do the job.

Yes, as I wrote the question, I thought, I could make a holder for the
live center out of wood and bolt or clamp it to the end of the bed.
I did see a steady rest someone built for their mini lathe, it was
very nice but quite a project.

You may find a plan or idea for one online, or maybe someone here can
tell you how to jury-rig one.

However, if the bed is too short to use the tailstock, it raises the
question of how long this thing is and how much of it you want to turn
down. A long, thin aluminum tube is going to present a deflection
problem, in which case you may have to rig a follow rest in addition
to the steady rest. You can look that one up, too.

It's about 12", 11" of it I need to reduce. I'm not to worried about
deflection, it just needs to slide in my bike frame tube, nothing
precision about it.
It's a seat post with a spring in it, I want a little more protection
for my compromised spine.

Thanks, Mikek

On 1/12/2016 4:49 PM, Cydrome Leader wrote:
amdx wrote:

I have one of the Harbor Freight 7 x 10 lathes.
I have a bicycle seat post that I want to reduce the diameter by 0.025".
The spindle head is to small to accept the post, the bed is to short to
use the tail stock.
Any clever ideas how I could use this lathe to do the job. The post is
aluminum.
I took it to a machine shop, he laughed and said, "I've already spent
more time on this than the part is worth."

It sounds like this lathe is just the wrong tool.

Yes, it's not the right size tool, but it only cost me 10 lbs of shrimp!

Clamp the seatpost on allthread in a drill with some nuts and a washer.
Run that with the left hand with the end of the allthhread on a block of
wood. Angle grinder with flap disc in the right hand. Take passes back and
forth.

You'll be done in a few minutes for quick and dirty OD removal.

I'll keep that in mind if a wooden steady rest or live center support
doesn't work out.

Thanks, Mikek

On Tue, 12 Jan 2016 19:27:41 -0600, amdx wrote:

On 1/12/2016 4:10 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Tue, 12 Jan 2016 15:59:08 -0600, amdx wrote:


I have one of the Harbor Freight 7 x 10 lathes.
I have a bicycle seat post that I want to reduce the diameter by 0.025".
The spindle head is to small to accept the post, the bed is to short to
use the tail stock.
Any clever ideas how I could use this lathe to do the job. The post is
aluminum.
I took it to a machine shop, he laughed and said, "I've already spent
more time on this than the part is worth."

Mikek

You need a steady rest (Google "lathe steady rest"). For a one-shot
that doesn't sound at all critical, cutting aluminum, you can make one
out of plywood that will do the job.

Yes, as I wrote the question, I thought, I could make a holder for the
live center out of wood and bolt or clamp it to the end of the bed.
I did see a steady rest someone built for their mini lathe, it was
very nice but quite a project.

Well, you may want to rig a center, or just a steady rest. If you
have room for a center, that would allow you to turn the whole length
at once.


You may find a plan or idea for one online, or maybe someone here can
tell you how to jury-rig one.

However, if the bed is too short to use the tailstock, it raises the
question of how long this thing is and how much of it you want to turn
down. A long, thin aluminum tube is going to present a deflection
problem, in which case you may have to rig a follow rest in addition
to the steady rest. You can look that one up, too.

It's about 12", 11" of it I need to reduce. I'm not to worried about
deflection, it just needs to slide in my bike frame tube, nothing
precision about it.
It's a seat post with a spring in it, I want a little more protection
for my compromised spine.

Thanks, Mikek

The issue with deflection in this case is not accuracy so much as the
ability of the tool to cut, if the work springs away. Or, much worse,
especially with alumimum, is a positive-rake tool digging in, pulling
the work toward the tool, and wrecking the work.

Cutting aluminum is pretty easy, and skating of the tool is not
generally a problem, but use a sharp tool and try zero rake to avoid
digging in.

--
Ed Huntress

On 12/01/16 21:59, amdx wrote:

I have one of the Harbor Freight 7 x 10 lathes.
I have a bicycle seat post that I want to reduce the diameter by 0.025".
The spindle head is to small to accept the post, the bed is to short
to use the tail stock.
Any clever ideas how I could use this lathe to do the job. The post
is aluminum.
I took it to a machine shop, he laughed and said, "I've already spent
more time on this than the part is worth."

Mikek
If you have a press available you could turn up some sizing dies and
push the seat post through those to reduce the diameter.

On 1/12/2016 7:39 PM, David Billington wrote:
On 12/01/16 21:59, amdx wrote:

I have one of the Harbor Freight 7 x 10 lathes.
I have a bicycle seat post that I want to reduce the diameter by 0.025".
The spindle head is to small to accept the post, the bed is to short
to use the tail stock.
Any clever ideas how I could use this lathe to do the job. The post
is aluminum.
I took it to a machine shop, he laughed and said, "I've already spent
more time on this than the part is worth."

Mikek
If you have a press available you could turn up some sizing dies and
push the seat post through those to reduce the diameter.

Hmm, it's internally threaded, so maybe not a good idea.

Thanks, Mikek

On Tuesday, January 12, 2016 at 4:59:13 PM UTC-5, amdx wrote:
I have one of the Harbor Freight 7 x 10 lathes.
I have a bicycle seat post that I want to reduce the diameter by 0.025".
The spindle head is to small to accept the post, the bed is to short to
use the tail stock.
Any clever ideas how I could use this lathe to do the job. The post is
aluminum.
I took it to a machine shop, he laughed and said, "I've already spent
more time on this than the part is worth."

Mikek

I always try to figure out what is the real requirement. In this case I think the real requirement is to have a shaft of some diameter 12 inches long.. Does it need to be a tube? Can you buy a tube or shaft of the right diameter? Could you get the right diameter by using a threading die to take off some of the metal and use the depth of the thread as a guide to removing the necessary amount of metal. Maybe using a drill press to spin the post and a file to remove the metal down to where the threading disappears.

Dan

On 01/12/2016 4:10 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:
....

However, if the bed is too short to use the tailstock, it raises the
question of how long this thing is and how much of it you want to turn
down. A long, thin aluminum tube is going to present a deflection
problem, in which case you may have to rig a follow rest in addition
to the steady rest. You can look that one up, too.

Just heard this afternoon a lathe operator was killed when the bar was
turning bent and hit him in the head...spinning things unsupported can
do nasties.

--

On 2016-01-12, amdx wrote:

I have one of the Harbor Freight 7 x 10 lathes.
I have a bicycle seat post that I want to reduce the diameter by 0.025".
The spindle head is to small to accept the post, the bed is to short to
use the tail stock.
Any clever ideas how I could use this lathe to do the job. The post is
aluminum.

Is it hollow, or solid? And if hollow -- how thick are the
walls? If you remove 0.025" diameter, will it be strong enough?

How long is the post? I presume that you mean that it will fit
into the chuck, but not into the spindle. If it under 10" OAL, can you
mount it between centers?

Or do you have a steady rest for the lathe? If so, you might be
able to hold it in the chuck and support near where the diameter reduces
and turn that which sticks out.

Or -- find someone local to you who has a larger lathe as a
hobby operation, rather than for income. (A clue as to where you live
-- general region, not street address -- might get someone nearby
responding. You may need to at least offer a non-spam-proofed address
in your posting to allow direct communications.

I took it to a machine shop, he laughed and said, "I've already spent
more time on this than the part is worth."

That's the problem with a commercial shop which has plenty of
business. If times were slow, they might have taken it on, just to keep
doing something.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Tue, 12 Jan 2016 20:43:24 -0600, dpb wrote:

On 01/12/2016 4:10 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:
...

However, if the bed is too short to use the tailstock, it raises the
question of how long this thing is and how much of it you want to turn
down. A long, thin aluminum tube is going to present a deflection
problem, in which case you may have to rig a follow rest in addition
to the steady rest. You can look that one up, too.

Just heard this afternoon a lathe operator was killed when the bar was
turning bent and hit him in the head...spinning things unsupported can
do nasties.

When they grab the tool and climb up it, they'll often spring out of
the centers up and back -- right for your head.

We don't hear as much about that danger today for several reasons, one
of which is that, unlike the early days of manufacturing, our primary
workpieces aren't power-transmission shafts, as they were in the early
days.

And, of course, there aren't a lot of lathes doing production work
with an operator standing in front of them, and without a protective
enclosure.

--
Ed Huntress

On Tue, 12 Jan 2016 19:27:41 -0600, amdx wrote:

On 1/12/2016 4:10 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Tue, 12 Jan 2016 15:59:08 -0600, amdx wrote:


I have one of the Harbor Freight 7 x 10 lathes.
I have a bicycle seat post that I want to reduce the diameter by 0.025".
The spindle head is to small to accept the post, the bed is to short to
use the tail stock.
Any clever ideas how I could use this lathe to do the job. The post is
aluminum.
I took it to a machine shop, he laughed and said, "I've already spent
more time on this than the part is worth."

Mikek

You need a steady rest (Google "lathe steady rest"). For a one-shot
that doesn't sound at all critical, cutting aluminum, you can make one
out of plywood that will do the job.

Yes, as I wrote the question, I thought, I could make a holder for the
live center out of wood and bolt or clamp it to the end of the bed.
I did see a steady rest someone built for their mini lathe, it was
very nice but quite a project.

You may find a plan or idea for one online, or maybe someone here can
tell you how to jury-rig one.

However, if the bed is too short to use the tailstock, it raises the
question of how long this thing is and how much of it you want to turn
down. A long, thin aluminum tube is going to present a deflection
problem, in which case you may have to rig a follow rest in addition
to the steady rest. You can look that one up, too.

It's about 12", 11" of it I need to reduce. I'm not to worried about
deflection, it just needs to slide in my bike frame tube, nothing
precision about it.
It's a seat post with a spring in it, I want a little more protection
for my compromised spine.

Thanks, Mikek

We once did a job similar to this. Make a "center rest" out of
plywood and a section of 2 x 4. Mount a drill bit of some sort in your
chuck and slide the "center rest" along the ways and mark the center.
Bore that to match the present diameter of the seat post. Stick the
seat post through the Center rest, clamp the center rest to the ways,
and chuck the last 1/4 - 1/2" in the chuck with the seat post clamp,
if any, hanging out past the center rest. Turn the post to diameter
and cut off the small original diameter section where you had chucked
it.

Depending on what your time is worth it is likely cheaper to just buy
the correct size (at least that is what I ended up doing :-).
--

Cheers,

John B.

amdx wrote:
I have one of the Harbor Freight 7 x 10 lathes.
I have a bicycle seat post that I want to reduce the diameter by 0.025".
The spindle head is to small to accept the post, the bed is to short to
use the tail stock.
Any clever ideas how I could use this lathe to do the job. The post is
aluminum.
I took it to a machine shop, he laughed and said, "I've already spent
more time on this than the part is worth."

Mikek

Chuck up one end, Pull the tail stock and bolt it to a riser block so it
is centered. Chunk of 4X4 would likely do the job. Turn to the mid
point. Reverse the post and turn the remainder.

--
Steve W.

On Tuesday, January 12, 2016 at 1:59:13 PM UTC-8, amdx wrote:
I have one of the Harbor Freight 7 x 10 lathes.
I have a bicycle seat post that I want to reduce the diameter by 0.025".
[but it's a 12" post}

One out-of-the-box suggestion: turn a tapered steel mandrel that
goes from x inch diameter to x - 0.027". Get a honkin' big hammer
and drive it down the seat tube. Use lubricant, and start at the
narrow end of the mandrel, of course.

Why not make the hole larger ? Might be easier to find a reamer
that is the size you want. Not a drill.

Martin

On 1/12/2016 3:59 PM, amdx wrote:

I have one of the Harbor Freight 7 x 10 lathes.
I have a bicycle seat post that I want to reduce the diameter by 0.025".
The spindle head is to small to accept the post, the bed is to short to
use the tail stock.
Any clever ideas how I could use this lathe to do the job. The post is
aluminum.
I took it to a machine shop, he laughed and said, "I've already spent
more time on this than the part is worth."

Mikek

The issue is not cutting but keeping it cool so when you cut you don't
cut expanded metal or shrunk metal when measuring...

Martin

On 1/12/2016 7:38 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Tue, 12 Jan 2016 19:27:41 -0600, amdx wrote:

On 1/12/2016 4:10 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Tue, 12 Jan 2016 15:59:08 -0600, amdx wrote:


I have one of the Harbor Freight 7 x 10 lathes.
I have a bicycle seat post that I want to reduce the diameter by 0.025".
The spindle head is to small to accept the post, the bed is to short to
use the tail stock.
Any clever ideas how I could use this lathe to do the job. The post is
aluminum.
I took it to a machine shop, he laughed and said, "I've already spent
more time on this than the part is worth."

Mikek

You need a steady rest (Google "lathe steady rest"). For a one-shot
that doesn't sound at all critical, cutting aluminum, you can make one
out of plywood that will do the job.

Yes, as I wrote the question, I thought, I could make a holder for the
live center out of wood and bolt or clamp it to the end of the bed.
I did see a steady rest someone built for their mini lathe, it was
very nice but quite a project.

Well, you may want to rig a center, or just a steady rest. If you
have room for a center, that would allow you to turn the whole length
at once.


You may find a plan or idea for one online, or maybe someone here can
tell you how to jury-rig one.

However, if the bed is too short to use the tailstock, it raises the
question of how long this thing is and how much of it you want to turn
down. A long, thin aluminum tube is going to present a deflection
problem, in which case you may have to rig a follow rest in addition
to the steady rest. You can look that one up, too.

It's about 12", 11" of it I need to reduce. I'm not to worried about
deflection, it just needs to slide in my bike frame tube, nothing
precision about it.
It's a seat post with a spring in it, I want a little more protection
for my compromised spine.

Thanks, Mikek

The issue with deflection in this case is not accuracy so much as the
ability of the tool to cut, if the work springs away. Or, much worse,
especially with alumimum, is a positive-rake tool digging in, pulling
the work toward the tool, and wrecking the work.

Cutting aluminum is pretty easy, and skating of the tool is not
generally a problem, but use a sharp tool and try zero rake to avoid
digging in.

I'd grind it myself with fluid. Light touches.
That is a tool post grinder.

Martin

On 1/12/2016 9:28 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Tue, 12 Jan 2016 20:43:24 -0600, dpb wrote:

On 01/12/2016 4:10 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:
...

However, if the bed is too short to use the tailstock, it raises the
question of how long this thing is and how much of it you want to turn
down. A long, thin aluminum tube is going to present a deflection
problem, in which case you may have to rig a follow rest in addition
to the steady rest. You can look that one up, too.

Just heard this afternoon a lathe operator was killed when the bar was
turning bent and hit him in the head...spinning things unsupported can
do nasties.

When they grab the tool and climb up it, they'll often spring out of
the centers up and back -- right for your head.

We don't hear as much about that danger today for several reasons, one
of which is that, unlike the early days of manufacturing, our primary
workpieces aren't power-transmission shafts, as they were in the early
days.

And, of course, there aren't a lot of lathes doing production work
with an operator standing in front of them, and without a protective
enclosure.

On 1/12/2016 3:59 PM, amdx wrote:

I have one of the Harbor Freight 7 x 10 lathes.
I have a bicycle seat post that I want to reduce the diameter by 0.025".
The spindle head is to small to accept the post, the bed is to short to
use the tail stock.
Any clever ideas how I could use this lathe to do the job. The post is
aluminum.
I took it to a machine shop, he laughed and said, "I've already spent
more time on this than the part is worth."

Mikek

I used a piece of 3/4" plywood, cut the shape of the ways on the
edge, then I bolted a piece of 2" angle iron to both sides to ride on
the ways. I then drill one angle iron to except the original tailstock
clamp.
I put a bit in the chuck and slid the plywood assembly against the
drill to make hole to accept the live center.
It worked. I got it turned down to slide in the tube.
Because of the extra length above the seat post to accommodate the
spring and hardware, the new post puts the seat higher than the original
seat. I need look into the best way to reduce the height. It's out of
simple height adjustments. Might need to cut the spring length.


Thanks all, Mikek

On Sat, 16 Jan 2016 16:52:22 -0600, amdx wrote:

On 1/12/2016 3:59 PM, amdx wrote:

I have one of the Harbor Freight 7 x 10 lathes.
I have a bicycle seat post that I want to reduce the diameter by 0.025".
The spindle head is to small to accept the post, the bed is to short to
use the tail stock.
Any clever ideas how I could use this lathe to do the job. The post is
aluminum.
I took it to a machine shop, he laughed and said, "I've already spent
more time on this than the part is worth."

Mikek

I used a piece of 3/4" plywood, cut the shape of the ways on the
edge, then I bolted a piece of 2" angle iron to both sides to ride on
the ways. I then drill one angle iron to except the original tailstock
clamp.
I put a bit in the chuck and slid the plywood assembly against the
drill to make hole to accept the live center.
It worked. I got it turned down to slide in the tube.
Because of the extra length above the seat post to accommodate the
spring and hardware, the new post puts the seat higher than the original
seat. I need look into the best way to reduce the height. It's out of
simple height adjustments. Might need to cut the spring length.


Thanks all, Mikek

That's really using what 'ya got, Mikek. Nice going.

--
Ed Huntress

On Sat, 16 Jan 2016 16:52:22 -0600, amdx wrote:

On 1/12/2016 3:59 PM, amdx wrote:

I have one of the Harbor Freight 7 x 10 lathes.
I have a bicycle seat post that I want to reduce the diameter by 0.025".
The spindle head is to small to accept the post, the bed is to short to
use the tail stock.
Any clever ideas how I could use this lathe to do the job. The post is
aluminum.
I took it to a machine shop, he laughed and said, "I've already spent
more time on this than the part is worth."

Mikek

I used a piece of 3/4" plywood, cut the shape of the ways on the
edge, then I bolted a piece of 2" angle iron to both sides to ride on
the ways. I then drill one angle iron to except the original tailstock
clamp.
I put a bit in the chuck and slid the plywood assembly against the
drill to make hole to accept the live center.
It worked. I got it turned down to slide in the tube.
Because of the extra length above the seat post to accommodate the
spring and hardware, the new post puts the seat higher than the original
seat. I need look into the best way to reduce the height. It's out of
simple height adjustments. Might need to cut the spring length.


Thanks all, Mikek

What are you making? A spring supported suspension type of seat post?
--

Cheers,

John B.

On 1/16/2016 6:23 PM, John B. wrote:
On Sat, 16 Jan 2016 16:52:22 -0600, amdx wrote:

On 1/12/2016 3:59 PM, amdx wrote:

I have one of the Harbor Freight 7 x 10 lathes.
I have a bicycle seat post that I want to reduce the diameter by 0.025".
The spindle head is to small to accept the post, the bed is to short to
use the tail stock.
Any clever ideas how I could use this lathe to do the job. The post is
aluminum.
I took it to a machine shop, he laughed and said, "I've already spent
more time on this than the part is worth."

Mikek

I used a piece of 3/4" plywood, cut the shape of the ways on the
edge, then I bolted a piece of 2" angle iron to both sides to ride on
the ways. I then drill one angle iron to except the original tailstock
clamp.
I put a bit in the chuck and slid the plywood assembly against the
drill to make hole to accept the live center.
It worked. I got it turned down to slide in the tube.
Because of the extra length above the seat post to accommodate the
spring and hardware, the new post puts the seat higher than the original
seat. I need look into the best way to reduce the height. It's out of
simple height adjustments. Might need to cut the spring length.


Thanks all, Mikek

What are you making? A spring supported suspension type of seat post?
--

Cheers,

John B.


I bought a spring loaded post for my bike seat, the post was to big to
fit the tube on my bike.
http://www.amazon.com/XLC-Suspension...0mm %2C+Black
Had to turn it down to fit my bike.

Mikek

On Sat, 16 Jan 2016 21:39:26 -0600, amdx wrote:

On 1/16/2016 6:23 PM, John B. wrote:
On Sat, 16 Jan 2016 16:52:22 -0600, amdx wrote:

On 1/12/2016 3:59 PM, amdx wrote:

I have one of the Harbor Freight 7 x 10 lathes.
I have a bicycle seat post that I want to reduce the diameter by 0.025".
The spindle head is to small to accept the post, the bed is to short to
use the tail stock.
Any clever ideas how I could use this lathe to do the job. The post is
aluminum.
I took it to a machine shop, he laughed and said, "I've already spent
more time on this than the part is worth."

Mikek

I used a piece of 3/4" plywood, cut the shape of the ways on the
edge, then I bolted a piece of 2" angle iron to both sides to ride on
the ways. I then drill one angle iron to except the original tailstock
clamp.
I put a bit in the chuck and slid the plywood assembly against the
drill to make hole to accept the live center.
It worked. I got it turned down to slide in the tube.
Because of the extra length above the seat post to accommodate the
spring and hardware, the new post puts the seat higher than the original
seat. I need look into the best way to reduce the height. It's out of
simple height adjustments. Might need to cut the spring length.


Thanks all, Mikek

What are you making? A spring supported suspension type of seat post?
--

Cheers,

John B.


I bought a spring loaded post for my bike seat, the post was to big to
fit the tube on my bike.
http://www.amazon.com/XLC-Suspension...0mm %2C+Black
Had to turn it down to fit my bike.

Mikek

I ride "road bikes" but did try a friend's MTB with a sprung seat
tube. It felt sort of "strange" I thought. But then, I think rear
suspension feels sort of strange :-)
--

Cheers,

John B.

On 1/17/2016 6:05 AM, John B. wrote:
On Sat, 16 Jan 2016 21:39:26 -0600, amdx wrote:

On 1/16/2016 6:23 PM, John B. wrote:
On Sat, 16 Jan 2016 16:52:22 -0600, amdx wrote:

On 1/12/2016 3:59 PM, amdx wrote:

I have one of the Harbor Freight 7 x 10 lathes.
I have a bicycle seat post that I want to reduce the diameter by 0.025".
The spindle head is to small to accept the post, the bed is to short to
use the tail stock.
Any clever ideas how I could use this lathe to do the job. The post is
aluminum.
I took it to a machine shop, he laughed and said, "I've already spent
more time on this than the part is worth."

Mikek

I used a piece of 3/4" plywood, cut the shape of the ways on the
edge, then I bolted a piece of 2" angle iron to both sides to ride on
the ways. I then drill one angle iron to except the original tailstock
clamp.
I put a bit in the chuck and slid the plywood assembly against the
drill to make hole to accept the live center.
It worked. I got it turned down to slide in the tube.
Because of the extra length above the seat post to accommodate the
spring and hardware, the new post puts the seat higher than the original
seat. I need look into the best way to reduce the height. It's out of
simple height adjustments. Might need to cut the spring length.


Thanks all, Mikek

What are you making? A spring supported suspension type of seat post?
--

Cheers,

John B.


I bought a spring loaded post for my bike seat, the post was to big to
fit the tube on my bike.
http://www.amazon.com/XLC-Suspension...0mm %2C+Black
Had to turn it down to fit my bike.

Mikek

I ride "road bikes" but did try a friend's MTB with a sprung seat
tube. It felt sort of "strange" I thought. But then, I think rear
suspension feels sort of strange :-)
--

Cheers,

John B.

I herniated a couple of discs in my lower back, I have hit a few bad
bumps and wished I had some suspension. I don't notice the spring action
until I hit a bump, which I searched out yesterday while I was testing.
I had to fight the habit to lift off the seat when I hit a bump, while
testing.
I've had the bike about 3 months, still trying to find enough time to
ride, I've had 50 mile weeks, but usually more like twenty. Getting dark
at 5pm, the holidays and rain have slowed me, The days are getting
longer, the holidays are past, maybe the rain will cooperate and I can
get back to some longer rides.
Mikek

On Sun, 17 Jan 2016 06:46:30 -0600, amdx wrote:

On 1/17/2016 6:05 AM, John B. wrote:
On Sat, 16 Jan 2016 21:39:26 -0600, amdx wrote:

On 1/16/2016 6:23 PM, John B. wrote:
On Sat, 16 Jan 2016 16:52:22 -0600, amdx wrote:

On 1/12/2016 3:59 PM, amdx wrote:

I have one of the Harbor Freight 7 x 10 lathes.
I have a bicycle seat post that I want to reduce the diameter by 0.025".
The spindle head is to small to accept the post, the bed is to short to
use the tail stock.
Any clever ideas how I could use this lathe to do the job. The post is
aluminum.
I took it to a machine shop, he laughed and said, "I've already spent
more time on this than the part is worth."

Mikek

I used a piece of 3/4" plywood, cut the shape of the ways on the
edge, then I bolted a piece of 2" angle iron to both sides to ride on
the ways. I then drill one angle iron to except the original tailstock
clamp.
I put a bit in the chuck and slid the plywood assembly against the
drill to make hole to accept the live center.
It worked. I got it turned down to slide in the tube.
Because of the extra length above the seat post to accommodate the
spring and hardware, the new post puts the seat higher than the original
seat. I need look into the best way to reduce the height. It's out of
simple height adjustments. Might need to cut the spring length.


Thanks all, Mikek

What are you making? A spring supported suspension type of seat post?
--

Cheers,

John B.


I bought a spring loaded post for my bike seat, the post was to big to
fit the tube on my bike.
http://www.amazon.com/XLC-Suspension...0mm %2C+Black
Had to turn it down to fit my bike.

Mikek

I ride "road bikes" but did try a friend's MTB with a sprung seat
tube. It felt sort of "strange" I thought. But then, I think rear
suspension feels sort of strange :-)
--

Cheers,

John B.

I herniated a couple of discs in my lower back, I have hit a few bad
bumps and wished I had some suspension. I don't notice the spring action
until I hit a bump, which I searched out yesterday while I was testing.
I had to fight the habit to lift off the seat when I hit a bump, while
testing.
I've had the bike about 3 months, still trying to find enough time to
ride, I've had 50 mile weeks, but usually more like twenty. Getting dark
at 5pm, the holidays and rain have slowed me, The days are getting
longer, the holidays are past, maybe the rain will cooperate and I can
get back to some longer rides.
Mikek

While road and weather conditions vary a great deal I do try for a
long ride on Sundays and a shorter one on Wednesday. But we don't have
snow here :-)
--

Cheers,

John B.

On 1/18/2016 6:39 AM, John B. wrote:
On Sun, 17 Jan 2016 06:46:30 -0600, amdx wrote:

On 1/17/2016 6:05 AM, John B. wrote:
On Sat, 16 Jan 2016 21:39:26 -0600, amdx wrote:

On 1/16/2016 6:23 PM, John B. wrote:
On Sat, 16 Jan 2016 16:52:22 -0600, amdx wrote:

On 1/12/2016 3:59 PM, amdx wrote:

I have one of the Harbor Freight 7 x 10 lathes.
I have a bicycle seat post that I want to reduce the diameter by 0.025".
The spindle head is to small to accept the post, the bed is to short to
use the tail stock.
Any clever ideas how I could use this lathe to do the job. The post is
aluminum.
I took it to a machine shop, he laughed and said, "I've already spent
more time on this than the part is worth."

Mikek

I used a piece of 3/4" plywood, cut the shape of the ways on the
edge, then I bolted a piece of 2" angle iron to both sides to ride on
the ways. I then drill one angle iron to except the original tailstock
clamp.
I put a bit in the chuck and slid the plywood assembly against the
drill to make hole to accept the live center.
It worked. I got it turned down to slide in the tube.
Because of the extra length above the seat post to accommodate the
spring and hardware, the new post puts the seat higher than the original
seat. I need look into the best way to reduce the height. It's out of
simple height adjustments. Might need to cut the spring length.


Thanks all, Mikek

What are you making? A spring supported suspension type of seat post?
--

Cheers,

John B.


I bought a spring loaded post for my bike seat, the post was to big to
fit the tube on my bike.
http://www.amazon.com/XLC-Suspension...0mm %2C+Black
Had to turn it down to fit my bike.

Mikek

I ride "road bikes" but did try a friend's MTB with a sprung seat
tube. It felt sort of "strange" I thought. But then, I think rear
suspension feels sort of strange :-)
--

Cheers,

John B.

I herniated a couple of discs in my lower back, I have hit a few bad
bumps and wished I had some suspension. I don't notice the spring action
until I hit a bump, which I searched out yesterday while I was testing.
I had to fight the habit to lift off the seat when I hit a bump, while
testing.
I've had the bike about 3 months, still trying to find enough time to
ride, I've had 50 mile weeks, but usually more like twenty. Getting dark
at 5pm, the holidays and rain have slowed me, The days are getting
longer, the holidays are past, maybe the rain will cooperate and I can
get back to some longer rides.
Mikek

While road and weather conditions vary a great deal I do try for a
long ride on Sundays and a shorter one on Wednesday. But we don't have
snow here :-)
--

Cheers,

John B.

No snow here in FL. either, but we hit 34* last night and 33* is
predicted tonight.
Mikek