I started today by sleeving the worn end section of the fan shaft . Some
here may recall I was asking about helical gears . Well , I'm not sure how
much wear is actually on this gear , but we ain't replacing it . It is an
integrally machined part of the fan shaft , so there's no way to replace it
without replacing the shaft - and that part ain't available .
ANYway , the end of the shaft that carries the thrust bearing - a ball in
the end of the shaft - was worn , nominal is .500" and it was under .450" ,
so I machined it down to just over .4375 and pressed/loctited (red) a .625"
OD/.4375" ID sleeve over it .
The fan end is worn about .010 under , I'm not sure yet what I'm going to
do with it . Probably clean it up with the minimum amount removed , then
make a new bushing and sleeve the fan itself .
The rest of the blower seems to be in pretty good shape aside from worn
keyways . Those will probably get cleaned up and have new oversize keys
fitted . The only restriction placed on this project is that he doesn't want
the original patina disturbed . He wants it left rusty on the outside .
Works for me ...
I don't think he plans on using this much , but a hand cranked forge
blower could come in handy ...
--
Snag

"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
I started today by sleeving the worn end section of the fan shaft .
Some here may recall I was asking about helical gears . Well , I'm
not sure how much wear is actually on this gear , but we ain't
replacing it . It is an integrally machined part of the fan shaft ,
so there's no way to replace it without replacing the shaft - and
that part ain't available .
ANYway , the end of the shaft that carries the thrust bearing - a
ball in the end of the shaft - was worn , nominal is .500" and it
was under .450" , so I machined it down to just over .4375 and
pressed/loctited (red) a .625" OD/.4375" ID sleeve over it .
The fan end is worn about .010 under , I'm not sure yet what I'm
going to do with it . Probably clean it up with the minimum amount
removed , then make a new bushing and sleeve the fan itself .
The rest of the blower seems to be in pretty good shape aside from
worn keyways . Those will probably get cleaned up and have new
oversize keys fitted . The only restriction placed on this project
is that he doesn't want the original patina disturbed . He wants it
left rusty on the outside . Works for me ...
I don't think he plans on using this much , but a hand cranked
forge blower could come in handy ...
--
Snag

I recently discovered the snowthrower impeller shaft bearing, a
compact and inexpensive self-aligning bronze bushing that could be
useful for repairs or cobbling up machinery from scrap.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/4010466...chn=ps&lpid=82

-jsw

Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
I started today by sleeving the worn end section of the fan shaft .
Some here may recall I was asking about helical gears . Well , I'm
not sure how much wear is actually on this gear , but we ain't
replacing it . It is an integrally machined part of the fan shaft ,
so there's no way to replace it without replacing the shaft - and
that part ain't available .
ANYway , the end of the shaft that carries the thrust bearing - a
ball in the end of the shaft - was worn , nominal is .500" and it
was under .450" , so I machined it down to just over .4375 and
pressed/loctited (red) a .625" OD/.4375" ID sleeve over it .
The fan end is worn about .010 under , I'm not sure yet what I'm
going to do with it . Probably clean it up with the minimum amount
removed , then make a new bushing and sleeve the fan itself .
The rest of the blower seems to be in pretty good shape aside from
worn keyways . Those will probably get cleaned up and have new
oversize keys fitted . The only restriction placed on this project
is that he doesn't want the original patina disturbed . He wants it
left rusty on the outside . Works for me ...
I don't think he plans on using this much , but a hand cranked
forge blower could come in handy ...
--
Snag

I recently discovered the snowthrower impeller shaft bearing, a
compact and inexpensive self-aligning bronze bushing that could be
useful for repairs or cobbling up machinery from scrap.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/4010466...chn=ps&lpid=82

-jsw

Interesting ... but hard to use in this application . I've been out in the
shop making a new shaft for the hand crank . The shaft runs in the cast
housing and is badly worn . The new shaft is a tad larger in diameter , I
have reamed the housing to clean up the holes and fit the shaft to it . I'll
turn the crank end down to fit the crank and bore the gear out approx. .030"
to get a very light press fit so the keyway won't wear too much . Which
reminds me , I need to order an 1/8" end mill , the only ones I have on hand
are ball end .

--
Snag

"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
Jim Wilkins wrote:
.....
Interesting ... but hard to use in this application . I've been out
in the shop making a new shaft for the hand crank . The shaft runs
in the cast housing and is badly worn . The new shaft is a tad
larger in diameter , I have reamed the housing to clean up the holes
and fit the shaft to it . I'll turn the crank end down to fit the
crank and bore the gear out approx. .030" to get a very light press
fit so the keyway won't wear too much . Which reminds me , I need to
order an 1/8" end mill , the only ones I have on hand are ball end .

--
Snag

I spent the morning fitting an oilite bushing and close-fitting pivot
pin in the worn traction control handgrip of my newly acquired 1995
snowthrower.

Is there a preferred way to repair and perhaps improve a worn control
shaft pivot in outdoor equipment? This thing had a few Nyliner flanged
bushings which disintegrated but mostly mild steel shafts running in
punched holes in sheet metal, with little hope of lubrication. Since
the holes tend to wear oval they can't always be drilled larger
without moving. In this case the handgrip was small enough to clamp
and bore in the mill and the snap clip on the pivot pin will retain
the bushing if it loosens.

-jsw

Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
Jim Wilkins wrote:
.....
Interesting ... but hard to use in this application . I've been out
in the shop making a new shaft for the hand crank . The shaft runs
in the cast housing and is badly worn . The new shaft is a tad
larger in diameter , I have reamed the housing to clean up the holes
and fit the shaft to it . I'll turn the crank end down to fit the
crank and bore the gear out approx. .030" to get a very light press
fit so the keyway won't wear too much . Which reminds me , I need to
order an 1/8" end mill , the only ones I have on hand are ball end .

--
Snag

I spent the morning fitting an oilite bushing and close-fitting pivot
pin in the worn traction control handgrip of my newly acquired 1995
snowthrower.

Is there a preferred way to repair and perhaps improve a worn control
shaft pivot in outdoor equipment? This thing had a few Nyliner flanged
bushings which disintegrated but mostly mild steel shafts running in
punched holes in sheet metal, with little hope of lubrication. Since
the holes tend to wear oval they can't always be drilled larger
without moving. In this case the handgrip was small enough to clamp
and bore in the mill and the snap clip on the pivot pin will retain
the bushing if it loosens.

-jsw

Tack weld a (thick) washer with the proper size hole on both sides of the
worn hole . For the flanged nycrap , I usually machine one of bronze/brass
and glue it in with JB .
I was just out in the shop boring the new fan shaft bushing about .030"
too big on the lathe ... but that's OK , I changed my mind about my choice
of bushing material , decided to use the last bit of Ampco45 al/bronze
instead of mild steel . Original was CI , and if I had a chunk that's what
the new one would be too .
I'm trying to decide how I want to mill the key slot in the new input
shaft . I can use the mill to either slot it with a slitting saw or mill
with an EM . The other option is to chuck it in the lathe with the quill
locked and machine it with the Dremel using that same end mill . Either end
mill option will require cutting one direction only and withdrawing the
cutter to return due to cutter deflection . The saw option has the
advantages of not only no side deflection , but it's the most rigid .
Drawback is fixturing it on the mill .
--
Snag

"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
Jim Wilkins wrote:
.....
Interesting ... but hard to use in this application . I've been
out
in the shop making a new shaft for the hand crank . The shaft runs
in the cast housing and is badly worn . The new shaft is a tad
larger in diameter , I have reamed the housing to clean up the
holes
and fit the shaft to it . I'll turn the crank end down to fit the
crank and bore the gear out approx. .030" to get a very light
press
fit so the keyway won't wear too much . Which reminds me , I need
to
order an 1/8" end mill , the only ones I have on hand are ball end
.

--
Snag

I spent the morning fitting an oilite bushing and close-fitting
pivot
pin in the worn traction control handgrip of my newly acquired 1995
snowthrower.

Is there a preferred way to repair and perhaps improve a worn
control
shaft pivot in outdoor equipment? This thing had a few Nyliner
flanged
bushings which disintegrated but mostly mild steel shafts running
in
punched holes in sheet metal, with little hope of lubrication.
Since
the holes tend to wear oval they can't always be drilled larger
without moving. In this case the handgrip was small enough to clamp
and bore in the mill and the snap clip on the pivot pin will retain
the bushing if it loosens.

-jsw

Tack weld a (thick) washer with the proper size hole on both sides
of the worn hole . For the flanged nycrap , I usually machine one of
bronze/brass and glue it in with JB .
I was just out in the shop boring the new fan shaft bushing about
.030" too big on the lathe ... but that's OK , I changed my mind
about my choice of bushing material , decided to use the last bit of
Ampco45 al/bronze instead of mild steel . Original was CI , and if I
had a chunk that's what the new one would be too .
I'm trying to decide how I want to mill the key slot in the new
input shaft . I can use the mill to either slot it with a slitting
saw or mill with an EM . The other option is to chuck it in the
lathe with the quill locked and machine it with the Dremel using
that same end mill . Either end mill option will require cutting one
direction only and withdrawing the cutter to return due to cutter
deflection . The saw option has the advantages of not only no side
deflection , but it's the most rigid . Drawback is fixturing it on
the mill .
--
Snag

Woodruff key cutters are nice for milling slots between clamps or on
short projections from the edge of the vise. I make the key fit the
slot rather than vice versa since key stock easier to clamp and mill,
or throw away and start over. I haven't had a problem with stepped
keys connecting different-width slots, transmitting up to 5HP.
http://www.use-enco.com/1/3/keo-woodruff-key-seat

-jsw

Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
Jim Wilkins wrote:
.....
Interesting ... but hard to use in this application . I've been
out
in the shop making a new shaft for the hand crank . The shaft runs
in the cast housing and is badly worn . The new shaft is a tad
larger in diameter , I have reamed the housing to clean up the
holes
and fit the shaft to it . I'll turn the crank end down to fit the
crank and bore the gear out approx. .030" to get a very light
press
fit so the keyway won't wear too much . Which reminds me , I need
to
order an 1/8" end mill , the only ones I have on hand are ball end
.

--
Snag

I spent the morning fitting an oilite bushing and close-fitting
pivot
pin in the worn traction control handgrip of my newly acquired 1995
snowthrower.

Is there a preferred way to repair and perhaps improve a worn
control
shaft pivot in outdoor equipment? This thing had a few Nyliner
flanged
bushings which disintegrated but mostly mild steel shafts running
in
punched holes in sheet metal, with little hope of lubrication.
Since
the holes tend to wear oval they can't always be drilled larger
without moving. In this case the handgrip was small enough to clamp
and bore in the mill and the snap clip on the pivot pin will retain
the bushing if it loosens.

-jsw

Tack weld a (thick) washer with the proper size hole on both sides
of the worn hole . For the flanged nycrap , I usually machine one of
bronze/brass and glue it in with JB .
I was just out in the shop boring the new fan shaft bushing about
.030" too big on the lathe ... but that's OK , I changed my mind
about my choice of bushing material , decided to use the last bit of
Ampco45 al/bronze instead of mild steel . Original was CI , and if I
had a chunk that's what the new one would be too .
I'm trying to decide how I want to mill the key slot in the new
input shaft . I can use the mill to either slot it with a slitting
saw or mill with an EM . The other option is to chuck it in the
lathe with the quill locked and machine it with the Dremel using
that same end mill . Either end mill option will require cutting one
direction only and withdrawing the cutter to return due to cutter
deflection . The saw option has the advantages of not only no side
deflection , but it's the most rigid . Drawback is fixturing it on
the mill .
--
Snag

Woodruff key cutters are nice for milling slots between clamps or on
short projections from the edge of the vise. I make the key fit the
slot rather than vice versa since key stock easier to clamp and mill,
or throw away and start over. I haven't had a problem with stepped
keys connecting different-width slots, transmitting up to 5HP.
http://www.use-enco.com/1/3/keo-woodruff-key-seat

-jsw

I ordered 10 1/8" end mills a couple of days ago . The easiest way to do
this is to get the vise back on the mill and use an end mill from above .
The slitting saw is a .125 , which is why I considered it - but it's 3" in
diameter which will have me slotting further than I need . I also have to
match the keyway in the gear .

--
Snag

"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
Jim Wilkins wrote:
.....
Interesting ... but hard to use in this application . I've been
out
in the shop making a new shaft for the hand crank . The shaft
runs
in the cast housing and is badly worn . The new shaft is a tad
larger in diameter , I have reamed the housing to clean up the
holes
and fit the shaft to it . I'll turn the crank end down to fit
the
crank and bore the gear out approx. .030" to get a very light
press
fit so the keyway won't wear too much . Which reminds me , I
need
to
order an 1/8" end mill , the only ones I have on hand are ball
end
.

--
Snag

I spent the morning fitting an oilite bushing and close-fitting
pivot
pin in the worn traction control handgrip of my newly acquired
1995
snowthrower.

Is there a preferred way to repair and perhaps improve a worn
control
shaft pivot in outdoor equipment? This thing had a few Nyliner
flanged
bushings which disintegrated but mostly mild steel shafts running
in
punched holes in sheet metal, with little hope of lubrication.
Since
the holes tend to wear oval they can't always be drilled larger
without moving. In this case the handgrip was small enough to
clamp
and bore in the mill and the snap clip on the pivot pin will
retain
the bushing if it loosens.

-jsw

Tack weld a (thick) washer with the proper size hole on both
sides
of the worn hole . For the flanged nycrap , I usually machine one
of
bronze/brass and glue it in with JB .
I was just out in the shop boring the new fan shaft bushing about
.030" too big on the lathe ... but that's OK , I changed my mind
about my choice of bushing material , decided to use the last bit
of
Ampco45 al/bronze instead of mild steel . Original was CI , and if
I
had a chunk that's what the new one would be too .
I'm trying to decide how I want to mill the key slot in the new
input shaft . I can use the mill to either slot it with a slitting
saw or mill with an EM . The other option is to chuck it in the
lathe with the quill locked and machine it with the Dremel using
that same end mill . Either end mill option will require cutting
one
direction only and withdrawing the cutter to return due to cutter
deflection . The saw option has the advantages of not only no side
deflection , but it's the most rigid . Drawback is fixturing it on
the mill .
--
Snag

Woodruff key cutters are nice for milling slots between clamps or
on
short projections from the edge of the vise. I make the key fit the
slot rather than vice versa since key stock easier to clamp and
mill,
or throw away and start over. I haven't had a problem with stepped
keys connecting different-width slots, transmitting up to 5HP.
http://www.use-enco.com/1/3/keo-woodruff-key-seat

-jsw

I ordered 10 1/8" end mills a couple of days ago . The easiest way
to do this is to get the vise back on the mill and use an end mill
from above . The slitting saw is a .125 , which is why I considered
it - but it's 3" in diameter which will have me slotting further
than I need . I also have to match the keyway in the gear .

--
Snag

Why do you think you have to match the two keyways?

http://eccarburetors.com/store/en/bi...ffset-key.html

-jsw

Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
Jim Wilkins wrote:
.....
Interesting ... but hard to use in this application . I've been
out
in the shop making a new shaft for the hand crank . The shaft
runs
in the cast housing and is badly worn . The new shaft is a tad
larger in diameter , I have reamed the housing to clean up the
holes
and fit the shaft to it . I'll turn the crank end down to fit
the
crank and bore the gear out approx. .030" to get a very light
press
fit so the keyway won't wear too much . Which reminds me , I
need
to
order an 1/8" end mill , the only ones I have on hand are ball
end
.

--
Snag

I spent the morning fitting an oilite bushing and close-fitting
pivot
pin in the worn traction control handgrip of my newly acquired
1995
snowthrower.

Is there a preferred way to repair and perhaps improve a worn
control
shaft pivot in outdoor equipment? This thing had a few Nyliner
flanged
bushings which disintegrated but mostly mild steel shafts running
in
punched holes in sheet metal, with little hope of lubrication.
Since
the holes tend to wear oval they can't always be drilled larger
without moving. In this case the handgrip was small enough to
clamp
and bore in the mill and the snap clip on the pivot pin will
retain
the bushing if it loosens.

-jsw

Tack weld a (thick) washer with the proper size hole on both
sides
of the worn hole . For the flanged nycrap , I usually machine one
of
bronze/brass and glue it in with JB .
I was just out in the shop boring the new fan shaft bushing about
.030" too big on the lathe ... but that's OK , I changed my mind
about my choice of bushing material , decided to use the last bit
of
Ampco45 al/bronze instead of mild steel . Original was CI , and if
I
had a chunk that's what the new one would be too .
I'm trying to decide how I want to mill the key slot in the new
input shaft . I can use the mill to either slot it with a slitting
saw or mill with an EM . The other option is to chuck it in the
lathe with the quill locked and machine it with the Dremel using
that same end mill . Either end mill option will require cutting
one
direction only and withdrawing the cutter to return due to cutter
deflection . The saw option has the advantages of not only no side
deflection , but it's the most rigid . Drawback is fixturing it on
the mill .
--
Snag

Woodruff key cutters are nice for milling slots between clamps or
on
short projections from the edge of the vise. I make the key fit the
slot rather than vice versa since key stock easier to clamp and
mill,
or throw away and start over. I haven't had a problem with stepped
keys connecting different-width slots, transmitting up to 5HP.
http://www.use-enco.com/1/3/keo-woodruff-key-seat

-jsw

I ordered 10 1/8" end mills a couple of days ago . The easiest way
to do this is to get the vise back on the mill and use an end mill
from above . The slitting saw is a .125 , which is why I considered
it - but it's 3" in diameter which will have me slotting further
than I need . I also have to match the keyway in the gear .

--
Snag

Why do you think you have to match the two keyways?

http://eccarburetors.com/store/en/bi...ffset-key.html

-jsw

Well , I know I don't HAVE to ... but it's easier if I do .

--
Snag